My Signature Look: Erik Mannby

Erik Mannby is a long-time member of Styleforum, and has been a contributor to the Styleforum Journal. He’s now the Editor-in-Chief of Plaza Uomo, which means he’s even more of an Instagram star than he already was. He’s also a genuinely stylish fellow, and a great person to look to for your own inspiration.

-Jasper


When asked about a “signature look,” I really had to think about my go-to’s. Do I have a personal style? In that case, what does it look like? I guess I actually do, and if I would narrow it down, I’d say ‘casual classic,’ with a few signature garments.

I love safari jackets and field jackets in a variety of designs and shapes. Therefore, it feels quite natural that I should include this as a signature garment. I also like high rise trousers, earthy colors, and hats and caps. It’s next to impossible explaining why one likes a certain aesthetic, but I guess the casual take may have something to do with my personality in general. I like comfort and purpose in my everyday wardrobe, but almost always in a classic cut (something that actually increases comfort). The two examples below offer a nice summary of what I would call my ‘signature.’

erik mannby signature look styleforum member inspiration
Picture by Fredrik Sellberg

Here, I’m wearing a safari style jacket in brown linen, that I actually made myself. The sunglasses are by Nividas, the butcher stripe MTM shirt by Shirtonomy, and a green tie with medallions by Spacca Neapolis. The linen/wool pocket square is from X of Pentacles, the watch by Kronaby, the MTM off-white linen trousers by Luxire, and the brown single monks by Carlos Santos for Herring shoes.

erik mannby signature look styleforum member inspiration
Photo by Fredrik Sellberg.

Here, I’m wearing a reproduction of a WWII Khaki Drill Jacket, as worn by the British Army, while the linen newsboy cap is by Stetson. The polo is an Eidos ‘Lupo, and the scarf is a silk/wool pocket square, again by X of Pentacles. The same off-white trousers by Luxire and brown single monks by Carlos Santos for Herring shoes round it all out.


Follow Erik on Instagram

Style Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

styleforum outfit inspiration diplomatic ties diplomaticties styleforum Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

 

This week, we’re revisiting our friend Diplomatic Ties for some outfit inspiration. As you may remember from reading his member focus, he likes to get a little bit adventurous, and while this combination isn’t exactly wild, it’s a great way to break up the monotony of a blue jacket with grey trousers. In particular, I like that he’s chosen black shoes – anathema in the minds of many Stylefarmers – which in this case are a choice that grounds the outfit nicely (for the record, I think brown suede would have worked as well, and with a brown shoe I think the whole look would work very well tie-less).

I’m really enjoying the look of burgundies and purples as an alternative to navy and brown jackets, especially in subdued tones that keep the look from feeling costume-y. Diplomatic Ties’ choice features a subtle pattern and a peak lapel, but I think a solid option, such as this linen Formosa model from No Man Walks Alone, would look equally nice. Combined with a more familiar grey trouser, it’s just enough outside the norm to be interesting, but you’re unlikely to feel uncomfortably loud. Again, you could easily wear this same combination with a brown shoe or a loafer and look equally well put-together.

All credit to DT for some welcome experimentation with color – if you’re not already, be sure to share your outfits in the WAYWT thread.

A Cream Suit for Summer with @Andy57

We’ve featured @Andy57 before, and always admire the ease he brings to tailored clothing. We also think he brings impressive panache to daily life, in a way that we could all learn from. He’s also the resident master of the cream jacket – whether as part of a suit or worn separately – so take notes. We asked him to detail his signature summer look: the outfit he returns to during the warmer months, and why he enjoys wearing it. 


I would say that my signature summer look, such as it is, would be the cream or ivory linen suit. It’s a look I’ve been iterating on for several years, learning a little from each attempt.

My first foray into wearing a cream suit was a three-piece Brooks Brothers off-the-rack linen suit. As I wore it I started to realize that there were fit issues that I couldn’t ignore and style issues that bothered me increasingly. My second effort was also from Brooks Brothers, and was a jacket and matching trousers from their “Gatsby” collection from a few years ago. I preferred the style, but it was made from a herringbone linen. I have found herringbone linen to be too soft to make successfully into trousers that can keep their shape even slightly.

About a year ago I purchased a suit length of a Fox Brothers vintage bolt in a very lightweight ivory worsted wool cloth. I had this made into a lovely double-breasted suit that I wore extensively last summer. As nice as it is, and it is still in heavy use during the warmer months, I still wanted that cream linen look that I had in my mind’s eye.

Finally, last winter I bought a suit length of a London Lounge heavy Irish linen, in a rich cream color and had it made into another double-breasted suit. Finally I have a linen suit made from cloth heavy enough that it does not wrinkle, it keeps its shape and has that perfect summer vibe to it.

I’ve worn it with a shirt and tie, but my preferred look is to wear it with a Marol shirt with their “holiday” collar, which has that perfect roll and can only be worn open, having no collar button. Worn with spectator shoes, a cravat, and complimentary pocket square, I have my signature summer look.


Editor’s take: when made up in linen, a cream suit really hits the perfect summer note.  It’s also particularly versatile in the warmer months, when it can be worn during the day or at night (although we feel @Andy57 would be inclined to put on a dinner jacket).  And, as it is definitely not a conservative or business-ready color, cream garments encourage wearing for pleasure. 

Want more great cream suits? Follow Andy on Instagram.

Member Focus: Cleav

Cleav is perhaps Styleforum’s best-known Englishman, known for sharing pictures that showcase a well-selected wardrobe, idyllic surroundings, and a particularly nice collection of shoes. Here, he waxes lyric about his youth, and how he’s grown.


Simple, the life of an interpreter.

The day job is about explaining what one person is saying to another, being able to convey that message accurately with the correct tone and tenor. Then interpreting the response in an equally culturally sensitive manner, facilitating the dialogue so all parties understand the intentions of others. Simple.

Thing is, speaking on behalf of another allows you to take on a role; become them, essentially, for the purpose and duration of the assignment. Amongst many parts played I have been a Doctor, Comedian, Patient, Politician, Woman, Prisoner, Barrister, Accountant, Bricklayer, Lawyer, Footballer, Rock Star, Policeman, Actor, etc. etc. It’s a relatively straightforward task, armed with specific vocabulary, to accurately reflect the thoughts and intentions of someone.

With all that in mind, imagine my consternation then when asked to write this piece: speak for myself? All of a sudden, my interpreting facade is taken away leaving myself bare. Writing about me makes this doubly difficult…I’ll try to keep this brief.

A proud Englishman, forever inspired by my Father and Grandfather. Dad was a highly skilled Tradesman who didn’t mind getting his hands dirty building intricate wooden spiral staircases, cabinets and furniture; equally he scrubbed up well as keen to uphold the standards as set by his Father, my Grandfather. Fred was a senior engineer working for Rolls-Royce, building aero engines for British fighter planes in the 1940’s. My Grandfather would go to work in a jacket and tie, go to the Club for a ‘snifter’ in a jacket and tie, yet would relax reading the Sunday newspapers at home without a jacket though still wearing a tie! They both set the bar high in terms of their integrity, passion and commitment and would impress upon me many things that I in turn have passed on to The Flower Garden, our wonderful daughters courtesy of the love of my life, The Duchess.

I can remember my parents being keen to ensure I and my brother were sufficiently well turned out to visit our Grandparents. Short back and sides with a bowl cut fringe, matching shirts and ties, grey tailored shorts, knee length grey socks and polished black shoes, all at an early age. Well, at least the hair got better! We would be greeted with a matter of fact attitude by my Grandparents, who expected nothing less.

I clearly remember my Grandfather’s words of wisdom, including “Attention to detail, dear boy” and “You can always tell a man by his shoes and his wristwatch.” Some things just stick with you; after all, it is often said we are a product of our environment.

member focus cleav styleforum

With this grounding, I look back with no surprise as to the path I took and subsequent influences. First album bought: The Specials. Best gig: The Jam. First grail item bought: black tasseled loafers, second grail buy: English original Mod jacket. Northern Soul All-nighters. Quadrophenia…I’ll save the rest for another day.

When pressed to describe my style/look etc I was stuck as I found it difficult to summarize decades of experience that has led to a personal style whilst still (hopefully) keeping it interesting. I called on dear friends made here on Styleforum (@cleav) and on Instagram (@ignoreatyourperil) who helped me consider that I go with my instinct, rooted in a ‘classic’ look, whilst able to mix and match pattern and color. Conservative business dress with an elegant continental flair? Regardless, above all else I wear my clothes for me; comfortable, dressed, though never dressed up.

member focus cleav styleforum

Little did I know those shiny black shoes worn as a boy would lead ultimately to my current shoe and boot collection, a quest best described as a journey with no end. Or that being persuaded to wear an elasticated necktie as a youngster would pave the way to my never ending fascination with English and Italian tailoring, bespoke ties, shirts, pocket squares, wristwatches and of course socks – after all, “Attention to detail dear boy, attention to detail!”


You can follow @cleav on Instagram

Summer Deals from the Styleforum Classifieds!

Browsed the Buy & Sell forums lately? If not, you’re missing out. Here are some deals from the Styleforum classifieds that will keep you looking great this summer, whether at work or at play. The Styleforum classifieds section is the best place to find deals on top-quality designer clothing, shoes, and accessories. Not a Styleforum member? Sign up today, and start shopping!


For the Office

1. SuitSupply linen “Lazio” striped suit, size 38S: $285.00

2. Luigi Borrelli tan cotton jacket, size 50 & 54: 550GBP

3. Orazio Luciano beige summer-weight jacket, size 52R: $475.00

Find more more suits and sport coat deals on the Styleforum Classifieds


For the Weekend

1. Eidos “Trapunta” field jacket, size 48R: $340

2. Epaulet sport trainers in alabaster calfskin, size 10.5D: $135

3. Robert Geller cropped cargo pants, size EU46/US30: $80

Shop more streetwear deals on the Styleforum classifieds


For Vacation

1. Etro blue linen knit polo shirt, size XL: $107

2. Borrelli Napoli floral swim trunks, size XL: $85.00

3. Sutor Mantellassi red suede drivers, size US 12: $100

Shop more shirt deals on the Styleforum classifieds


For Everyday

1. Oliver Peoples “Kelton”: $300

2. Christian Kimber green tweed and leather tote: $225

3. Luis Vuitton monogram wallet: $425

Shop more accessories deals on the Styleforum classifieds


Please note that this forum is for private members only, and not for retailers, brands, or other commercial entities. If you are, and wish to sell on Styleforum, kindly email [email protected] for our marketing and advertising options.

Finally, note that Styleforum does not charge any fee for use of this service, nor do we store sensitive information on this system.. Therefore, we cannot be involved in disputes concerning private transactions between members. Please do report any case of suspected fraud to styleforum.net at gmail.com. Any feedback or suggestions should be posted here

Enjoy!

The Best 4th of July Menswear Sales

4th of july menswear sales styleforum

Just in time for you to revamp your summer wardrobe, we’re happy to present our 4th of July Menswear Sales Guide! We’ll be updating this list through the weekend, so stop back regularly to check for new deals. 


Acrimony: 30% off clearance items with code: FIREWERKS

Allen Edmonds: save up to $200 on factory seconds.

Alternative Apparel – Sale On Sale – 50% off sale with the code BANG50

Antonioli: markdowns up to 50% off

Aphrodite: extra 15% off with code hurry15

Atelier New York:  –60% OFF SELECTED DESIGNERS AND STYLES

Aureus Shoes: 30% off with code STARS30 on regular priced items till 7/5 + Free shipping

Baracuta: sale of 30% off.

Barneys: up to 75% off

Barney’s Warehouse: Up to extra 60% off sitewide

Billy Reid:  reductions of up to 70% off.

Bloomingdale’s: 25-50% off selected items. Take an extra 20%, 25%, 30%, 40% off sales and clearance items when signing up for emails.

Bluefly: up to 85% off, plus an additional 20% off on selected items & free shipping.

Bodega: 20% OFF sitewide with code BODEGA4TH

Briggs-Riley: 20% off selected styles

Brooks Brothers: summer clearance – 50%-70% off

Buttero: 30% off SS17

Cali Roots: Up to 50% off || EXTRA 20% boost on all sale with code BOOST.

Carmina Shoemaker: additional clearance items

CENTURY 21:  up to 75% off

Club Monaco: new markdowns + take an additional 30% off sitewide

Cobbler Union: use codes 4th10 to get 10% off orders over $100 and 4th20 to get 20% off orders over $1000.

Coggles: up to 50% off

Corridor NYC: 20% off with the code: JULY4th2017 until the 4th!

Couverture & The Garbstore: up to 40% off

Cruvoir: new markdowns, up to 70% off

Denimio: 15% off everything with code MURICALOVE

Dope Factory: up to 60% off

East Dane: up to 70% off

eBay: $20 Coupon on $100+ Use code P20JULY4TH on select home, outdoor, and more.

Emanuele Bichocchi: 30% off with code SUMMER30

END: extra 15% off sale with code ALLGONE

Epaulet: sales on footwear

Farfetch: sale of up to 60% off.

Firmament Berlin: sale up to 50% off including Stone Island, Stone Island Shadow, Wtaps,Undercover, Stussy, Bootleg Is Better, Chill Out, Nemen, Visvim, Powers.

Forward: up to 50% off

Flannels: up to 50% off.

Frances May: 15% off sitewide with code WAVES

Gentry NYC: store closing, further discounts.

Gilt: extra 40% off apparel with code EXTRA40

Gitman Vintage: 30% off

Goodhood: 30% off

Graduate Store: 50% off on SS17

Hanger Project: 65% sale on select Knitwear, Gloves, and Scarves

Haven shop: Up to 40% off

HBX: Extra 15% off already marked down items with the code SALE15

Hotoveli: up to 50% off

Huckberry: sale up to 70% off.

Hunting Ensemble: Summer Sale – new items added to the sale section PLUS take an additional 10% off with the code STYLEFORUM

Idol Brooklyn: UP TO 50% OFF SELECT DESIGNER COLLECTIONS

Independence: additional markdowns

Indigo and Cotton: summer sale up to 40% off

Isaia: 40% off a selection

James Perse: sale now up to 70% off with code JPSUMMER17

J. Crew: 50% off sale items with code SALETIME || 30% off with code HOORAY

Jean Shop: 20% off in store & online on all in stock Jean Shop full priced items from now through July 5th. Use Promo code: CROSBY3YEAR

Jonathon + Olivia: up to 50% off

Kakhi’s of Carmel: additional discounts on Ring Jackets

Lanieri: 20% off the whole collection with code SUMMERSALE

Lanvin: summer sale – 50% off

Last Call: up to 70% off everything

Lawrence Covell : up to 60% off

Le Rang: Up to 60% off

Levis:  code 40EXTRA for 40% off sale items.

Linde Le Palais: extra 15% off with code 15shopnow

LN-CC: 60% off SS17

LOIT:  30% OFF EVERYTHING WITH CODE LOITTHIRTY

Lost and Found: 20% off of everything in store and online with code canadaeh at check out.

Luisa Via Roma: sale up to 50% off || use code EX4  for an additional 10% or 15% off already discounted items on orders over $300 or $500.

MAAS & Stacks: summer sale ongoing

Magasin: 40% off with code SUMMERSALE

Maison Margiela: up to 50% off

Man of the World: 20% off Made In Usa items with the code USA20

Matches: sale on now for up to 60% off

Mismo: 30-40% off

Mohawk: 10% off sale with code INDEPENDENCE

Mr. Porter: extra 20% selected styles

Need Supply:  Up to 50% off

Neiman Marcus: 70% off – biggest sale of the season

Nitty Gritty: now offering further reductions on selected items with up to 50% off on brands like A.P.C., Harris Wharf London, Margaret Howell, Aspesi, Helmut Lang and many many more. 30% off of Stone Island.

Orion Leather: 17.76% off till 7/6

Tanner Goods: extra 20% off with code BONUS

The Next Door: up to 50% off

No Man Walks Alone: up to 40% off

Nordstrom: Additional savings, up to 50% off

Norse Store: Save up to 60% on selected SS17 items in-store and online.

Oi Polloi: additional summer sales

Other Shop: up to 50% off

Pegg & Son: extra 15% off

Private White V.C.: 30% off selected items with the code SECRET30

Ralph Laurenup to 50% off + take an additional 30% off with the code JULY

The Real Real: up to 70% off

Tom Ford: 50% off a selection of items

Trunk Clothiers: 30% off off SS17

Rooney Shop: new items added up to 40% off

Saks 5th Ave.: final sale – up to 70% off

Sartoriale: additional items added to the outlet

Shoes.com: use the code FIREWORKS for 25% off

Sierra Trading Post: up to an additional 20% off

Slam Jam Socialism: sale up to 50% off

SSense: sale up to 70% off

Standard and Strange: – 25% off clearance section with code CLEARANCE25

Steven Alan: use code TAKE40 for an additional 40% off sale items

StyleBop: Up to 70% off

Superdenim: up to 50% off

Taylor Stitch: 20% off everything, no code necessary

Tessabit: up to 60% off sale

Tres-bien: further reductions – up to 60%

Uncle Otis: up to 40% off

Understudy: up to 60% off

Unis: sale on Common Projects

Velasca: 15% off loafers with code VELA15 + Free shipping & returns

Vince: extra 25% off with code SUMMER25

The Webster: EXTRA 20% OFF SALE with THEWEBSTER4TH

Wrong Weather: up to 50% off

Yoox:  up to an extra 60% off.

ZFACTORIE: 50-70% off everything


If you liked our 4th of July Menswear Sales list, don’t forget to visit the Official Sales Thread  and share with us the good deals you’ve found!

If you like a good bargain, check out Styleforum’s brand new Buy&Sell section. Here is a selection of the hottest items for sale right now!

Styleforum Member Focus: ChetB

Styleforum, meet ChetB. He flits between CM and SW&D so easily you’d think he was an Internet ghost, but like many of us, he just has a lot of interests. This week, he tells about the lows and highs of online menswear hobby-chasing, and how he ended up where is today.


Luxury Sweatpants (Or: What I Wore While Wasting My Life)

I saw the the best minds of my generation dressed by the internet, starving for 15% off codes, dragging themselves through the Mr. Porter sale section looking for an angry fix (preferably something blue from Japan).

Like other millennial dudes who grew up in the age of the internet, I too have suffered for #fashion. Questing for sick fadez, I sat in a bathtub with jeans on, the cold blue water swirling around me, as clouded as my judgment. I bought suede jackets from Belgian designers too expensive and delicate to wear in the kind of weather you need a jacket for. I wrote eBay listings with phrases like “pit to pit” and “plenty of life left.” I learned to tell forward pleats from reverse pleats and barely wince when I hear “shirting” or “trousers” or “pop of color.” I collected quote-unquote wardrobe essentials the way 80s kid–me collected baseball cards. At my lowest, I searched for cool walls to stand in front of while my wife took pictures of my outfits, which I then posted to the internet in order to farm thumbs from people named “Jet” and “Mr. Moo,” blurring my face to hide the shame.

I used the words “luxury” and “sweatpants” in the same sentence, in consecutive order. I sized down two. I sized up one. I wore shirts made from seven other shirts.

How did I get here? How did we get here?

Slip-Sliding the Slippery Slope

The answer, for me, is a question: “How should my suit fit?”

That’s what I asked Google a decade ago. I was starting my first job out of college and didn’t know how to dress for it. I landed on a site called Styleforum, a place where, among other banalities, grown men fight about how best to fold small pieces of silk. Years later, I’m still down the rabbit hole, exploring all the nooks and hidden passages, emerging only occasionally in chunky baller knits and/or drop crotch pants.

For as far as things have come, they started out slow. I spent a lot of time at first scouring dusty thrift shops, scooping up Paul Stuart ties, vintage Oxxford suits, and L.L. Bean boots. At that point clothing wasn’t so much a hobby to enjoy as it was a problem to solve. As if once you collected all the essential ingredients your closet was “complete.” Like beating a video game or something.

Things changed in a dingy thrift shop in rural Utah, when I happened upon a black Maison Margiela suit. It was like that scene in 2001: A Space Odyssey, when early man encounters the mysterious black monoliths. What’s with all the numbers on the tag? Why the exposed white stitches on the back, and the weird cut? Though I didn’t know what to make of it all, for $10, I took it home.

My tastes didn’t change overnight. But now I wondered: what else is out there? Soon my wardrobe of “sensible basics” started looking like a sea of boring, the blue Brooks Brothers collars rolling in like tiny waves. I was ready to start having more fun.

Dreeze Van What?

I never get the chance to talk about fashion IRL. (Except for once, at Costco, when a guy asked me if my Blue Blue Japan jacket was Engineered Garments, and if I knew where the taquitos were). Which is fine with me. I’d probably flub the pronunciation of my favorite designers’ names anyway.

But I’m happy that there’s a community online where it’s not weird to talk about how pants should “break” or why epaulets are lame. A place where people understand my excitement at finding a Hunstman of Savile Row shepherds check tie at Goodwill for a dollar (which, incidentally, I wore at my wedding a year ago) or a vintage shop coat or a Brioni jacket.

As time goes by, I find myself becoming less and less prescriptivist and narrow-focused and instead learning to enjoy all the vast possibilities. It feels sometimes like you’re supposed to pick a team: “I’m a Neapolitan tailoring guy,” or “I’m a workwear guy,” or “I’m a 90s sportswear guy” or “techwear is my thing.” But things are more interesting when you don’t pick a side.

Have fun. Experiment. Don’t be uptight about it. It’s just clothing.

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You can follow ChetB on Instagram

The Anatomy of a Formal Shirt

Alexander Kabbaz is a Alexander Kabbaz is a custom shirt maker, clothier, and haberdasher. his article originally appeared on CustomShirt1.com and has been adapted and edited for the Styleforum Journal.


Over the past 40 years of dressing ladies and gentlemen, we’ve found the majority of formal events take place in the Spring, with April/May/June being the height of the season. Of course, weddings will continue to happen throughout the year, and you may be called upon to wear formal clothing well before the weather cools off. In this article, I’ll cover the anatomy of a formal shirt, paying special attention to summer variations in both garments and style.

Number One for Men: formal dressing has Rules with a capital R!

Number Two for Men: dressing has Rules … the top one on my list being Comfort with a capital C. So how do we accomplish Rule Two without making Emily Post turn over in her grave,all the while observing the other Capital C – Caveat?

This line from old friend and renowned menswear scribe G. Bruce Boyer sheds some light on the answer: “…find freedom within the rules. Anyone can be different because it’s easy to be outrageous. The trick is to be just that bit different.”

When you’re attending a formal occasion, remember this: just about the only garments that will be noticed are your shirt, tie, and cummerbund if you wear one. Why? Everything else will be basic black or midnight blue and will be the same as every other monkey suit in the room. So pay attention to what can be different: your shirt. Unless you’re part of a style-dictated wedding party, good taste virtually mandates that the body of your shirt be white. Yes, you’ll see pink ones and blue ones and teal ones and grey ones with pink pique, blue ruffles or grey pleats. However, if you’re past the age when your high school prom was the ultimate concern on your list, leave the colored shirts to the 12th Graders. Start with a white shirt body. What should the shirt body be made of? Here is where the most important of seasonal differences arise.

anatomy formal shirt characteristics construction


The Fabric

You have two basic choices: standard poplin/broadcloth or lightweight, breathable voile. Does it matter? Only in terms of the top-on-my-list rule 2: comfort.

Face it: most tuxedos, tails, and the like are hot. They’re black. They’re generally made from a substantial 10-12 oz wool. And you usually don’t take them off and show the whole shirt … at least until everyone’s had sufficient liquid refreshment so as not to notice the fabric of your shirt body. Were it my choice and were I not in the Yukon, I’d have two shirts:  one voile body for Spring/Summer and one broadcloth for Fall/Winter. Can’t go for two? Get the voile. Even in winter, the jacket will offer sufficient warmth no matter what the shirt fabric. (Click here for more fabric information.)


The Bosom

We have a box here just above my cutting table labeled “Unique Bosoms.” Most folks coming into our studio give me that ‘you’re a dirty old man’ look and assume it’s my porn collection. Actually, the shirt maker’s term for the decorative front of a formal shirt is “bosom.” Now that what there was of my dignity is restored, let’s discuss bosoms without gawk or giggle.

Will you be wearing a cummerbund? A vest? Nothing but trousers? How much of your shirt will show determines how long the bosom needs to be. You’ll need to know how long the distance is from the bottom of your collar band down to whichever garment (vest or cummerbund or trousers) will cover the bottom of the decorative bosom of your shirt. Then, make the bosom 1″ to 1.5″ longer, ensuring no peek-a-boo ‘twixt bosom and the lower, unadorned shirt front. Why not have the bosom go all the way to the shirt bottom? Because the bosom is bulky and thicker than the plain shirt body. Aside from the discomfort of this heavy material down there, the additional bulk will do its best to push back up out of your trousers, creating unsightly wrinkles in the shirt front.

Here’s where formal shirts get to be fun – at least for me. So share my joy! Let’s start with the basics: do you want the front to be pleated, or would you prefer the more subtle pique look? One important note: if the shirt is to be worn with tails (i.e. with a morning coat, or a tail coat – properly termed a “swallowtail coat”), pique is the only acceptable and very, very, very much preferred front. Did I say Very Much?

There is also a Summer/Winter factor here. Pique, no matter which form thereof, is generally heavy. It will be covering most of the front of your torso so, again, if you can go for two shirts, pleats can be made of broadcloth or voile. Get one with a voile body and voile pleats for the warmer weather.


Pleats

Come in at no fewer than dozens, if not hundreds, of different variations. At least they do at a good custom shirtmaker. The most standard is a very traditional 1/2″ pleat with 8-12 of them on each side of the front. There are 1/4″ pleats, 1/8″ pleats, even smaller ones we call “pin tucks.” There are pleats which vary in size called “variopintuck.” There are pleats designed with a complimentary set of smaller pleats to be used in the shirt’s center front.

pleats formal shirt constructionAnd yes … there are colored pleats. Reds, blues, black & white. There are white pleats with sparkly trim. There are pleats with metallic threads intertwined. There are white pleats with interspersed colored rows. Suffice it to say you should have a wide choice of pleats, and in addition to the traditional hand-made pleats, many weavers such as Switzerland’s Alumo offer stylized pre-made bosoms.

Having had the privilege for decades of creating Leonard Bernstein’s “formal” (he called them “conducting”) shirts, our repertoire of pleats and our variety of piques grew to be rather enormous. We actually have boxes labeled ‘Unique Bosoms II”, “Unique Bosoms III” and more – but for the reasons outlined above I now store these in a couple of drawers.


Pique

The most basic, traditional, often-seen pique is called “birdseye.” Why, you may wonder. Because, son, the little itty-bitty pique thingies are shaped like birds eyes. Duh!

Is that it? Of course not! There are square piques. There are basket-weave piques. There are cord piques (picture narrow-wale corduroy). Actually, there are some really interesting piques for folks like us who look at them through magnifying glasses.

Don’t fret if your shirt maker has only the standard birdseye. Stand back 18″ and you’ll never know the difference. Reminder: wearing tails? Select a pique.


Shirt Body

When it comes to the seasonal appropriateness of your formal shirt body, there are other warm weather fabric alternatives to consider. I have at times made a voile shirt body, the bosom of which was nothing more than another layer of voile cut in the shape of a round-bottom bosom and stitched onto the shirt front with two parallel rows of stitches. Very plain and tasteful, the additional outline layer of voile adds little in terms of warmth and breathes beautifully. Although voile cannot be used to imitate pique for a black tie shirt, there are a number of looser square basketweaves available which can. These don’t have the extremely tight and thick, hot construction of birdseye pique and will breath more than their heavier counterpart. In this case, one could even consider using a royal oxford. Its highly lustrous little “diamonds” would well-imitate the desired look and, again, will breath much better than the traditional birdseye. 


Front Closure

While we’re still on the shirt front, let’s deal with the studs/button issue. You have three basic choices: studs, buttons, or concealed closure (also called “fly-front”).

front formal shirt constructionstuds formal shirtThe most acceptable option is studs. Let’s return to that measurement you took from your collar band to the bottom of the bosom. Was it 15″ or less? 3 studs will suffice. More than 15″? Spring for the additional, fourth stud. If you don’t, you’ll have too much space between the last stud and the bottom of the bosom. The shirt front will gap open. Studs require advance decision-making: your shirt maker must make holes in both the left and right fronts to accommodate the studs.

There is a “cheating” alternative: specify the shirt for studs, then ask your maker to provide a “button strip” with small black mother-of-pearl shank buttons. This is a narrow strip of fabric adorned with black shank buttons which imitate studs. The wearer can use it when choosing not to use his studs or when traveling to places where the value of jewelry is a concern.

The second alternative is to use buttons as on a regular shirt. Ugh – this ain’t a regular shirt.

The final choice is concealed buttons. Personally, I’ve never understood that one. You’ve got these wonderful nature-made iridescent mother-of-pearl buttons – the absolute top of the button food-chain – and you’re gonna hide them? Whatever for?


Cuffs

Of course a formal shirt has French cuffs. Right? Wrong!Although French cuffs are sort of (severe nose curl here) acceptable on a shirt for wearing with a tux, they are absolutely, definitely not acceptable for a shirt meant to be worn with tails.

french cuffs formal shirt appropriateInstead, opt for single link cuffs. They have only two holes. They do not fold over. They are the first cuff ever used on a shirt (back in the day, they were tied closed with a string through the two holes). They are the most formal cuff. They are the most comfortable cuff.

Let’s do some name dropping here: Leonard Bernstein wore only them. Tom Wolfe wore only them.

Personally, I prefer them on all but my casual shirts if for nothing more than their understated elegant appearance and unparalleled pure comfort. Have I sold you yet?


The Collar

Let the arguments begin!

Which is the proper collar to wear with a tux? With tails? In the morning? Evening? For the type of occasion?

batwing wing collar formal shirt typeThe wing (properly called batwing) collar is the correct one to wear with a tailcoat. You’d look rather ignorant in a tailcoat with a turndown collar. However, a turndown collar can be worn with a tuxedo. Furthermore, a properly made batwing collar can be as beautiful and distinctive as it is tasteful and flattering.

Back to Rule Two: Comfort. If you’re uncomfortable in a wing collar, then have your (not for tails) formal shirt made with a turndown collar.

Planning to use the same shirt for both tux and tails? Have the shirt made with two, detachable collars. They’re a bit of a pain-in-the-ass to work with, but that way you can have one shirt fill two purposes. You’ll have no choice but to select the pique (or previously discussed pique alternative) front if you are going to use the same shirt for tux and tails.

There are two final but important things to remember: one, the bow-tie needs a bit of tie space to sit properly with a turndown collar, so make it a semi-spread.  Two… and the most often answered question: Tuck the “wings” of a batwing collar behind the bow tie. The only time to leave the wings up above the tie is never. 


The Basics Make You Proper

This is a word used more often when discussing men’s formal dress than when discussing anything else in the universe of menswear. Were I to show three men the same wing collar, I can virtually guarantee that one would consider it perfect; the second would blanche at the “too large wings;” the third would wonder why I had made the wings so small. And the first guy who considered it perfect? That’s on a good day!

In short, observe the basics of formalwear: Tuxedo. Appropriate shoes. Cufflinks. A shirt made for the occasion. Beyond that? Be yourself. Be comfortable in your clothes. And once you’ve checked yourself out in the mirror, forget what you’re wearing and enjoy the party!


Copyright © 2017 Alexander Kabbaz. All rights reserved.

Styleforum Member Instagram Inspiration

Styleforum’s wide-ranging community isn’t active only on Styleforum.net. You might know that we’re also active on Instagram, and that we often feature Styleforum members who use the hashtag #styleforum. Direct from our feed, here’s some Styleforum member Instagram Inspiration.

This month, we reached into the vault to collect the 18 most-liked outfit photos from the Styleforum Instagram page. All of these great looks were found under the #styleforum tag, and one was the feature of a Styleforum Member Focus. If that sounds like something you’re interested in, make sure you’re tagging us in your own outfit posts (and following us, of course).

Which of the below is your favorite?


Styleforum Member Instagram styleforum member instagram styleforum instagram

Styleforum Member Instagram styleforum member instagram styleforum instagram


 

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Member Focus: Upr_Crust

One of Styleforum’s best-known and longest-serving members, Upr_Crust can often be found in 3-piece suits, looking about as elegant as a man can look. Here, he talks about the reasons behind his interest in menswear, and what led to the development of his own style.


I cannot remember a time in my life when I was not interested in clothing, perhaps first inspired by my father, who was fearless in what he wore, though perhaps at times he rushed in where proper sartorialists feared to tread (the 1960’s and 1970’s have much to answer for in such matters).

My tastes were refined by my exposure to New York (I moved to New York, poor as a church mouse, when I was 24), and by my first husband, a stock broker by profession, and a sharp dresser, with more means than my schoolteacher father to express himself sartorially.  It was his taste that informed mine, certainly exposing me to better sources for menswear, and changing my perception of what constituted proper attire.

As I established myself in my professional career, my wardrobe benefited from greater means, and from international travel – London was my first overseas destination, and is still one of my favorite foreign haunts.  There is a strong Anglophilic element to my sense of style, the byproduct of over 30 years of visits to the UK.

Like many who develop an interest in menswear, part of the impetus for dressing well was visual defense – I was, at one time, about 35 to 40 pounds heavier than I am now.  I needed all the means at my disposal to best disguise my excess avoirdupois.  Conversely, when I began to lose weight, and particularly after the death of my first husband eight years ago, I had to un-learn a view of myself as an overweight person, which had a beneficial effect on both my appearance, and on my self-regard.

I started posting photos of myself on Styleforum on a regular basis shortly after the death of my first husband, which was both a form of therapy, and a source of some initial shock, as I was informed, at times in no uncertain terms, that I was not quite the well-dressed person I imagined myself to be.  I learned from the criticisms (at least those with which I agreed), and have continued to post here, with perhaps unnerving regularity, to this very day.

The process of photographing oneself on a regular basis does make one more acutely aware of the details of one’s appearance.  The mirror can be a shameless flatterer; a photograph (or a set of them) can be more truthful.  I have enjoyed the dialogue between my inner self and my appearance; the daily act of snapping shots of myself has helped me focus on the details of my attire (and has cost me much in both alteration fees, and in new suits).

My style is, for this day and age, very formal.  I like the visual vocabulary of wearing a suit and tie, and all of the detailing that can accompany it.  Perhaps I am like the ermine, at my visual best in the winter, when it is cold, rather than the summer, when the ermine is just another long-haired rodent, and I am just another New Yorker, attempting to survive bouts of boiling heat waiting for a subway car, wearing as little as possible.

A very long time ago, when I was a painting major at the Rhode Island School of Design (until I woke up), I learned that you have to have respect for the material with which you make art – to appreciate the qualities of a piece of wood or stone from which one would make art, and to work with those qualities.  I think that I have done the same with my personal style, working with my natural rather professorial mien (both of my parents were schoolteachers – there was no escape from that).

I have taken great pleasure from posting on Styleforum, and have had the pleasure of meeting a number of other regular posters.  I look forward to continuing with this for as long as I something to contribute to these forums.