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The Styleforum Journal

The Editorial Voice of Styleforum.net

The Styleforum Journal

Nailing Trad Style with Roycru

nailing trad style styleforum

You may remember Roycru from his member focus, and this week we’re looking to him for some American inspiration. It’s nice to see one of our members nailing trad style, since it’s a look that has grown rarer on Styleforum over the years. And if you, like me, aren’t often found singing the praises of ‘timeless’ style, this tidbit from Roycru should make you take notice: “People often say things like ‘nice vintage clothes’ to me. I always thank them and then mention the clothes I am wearing were new when I got them.”

It’s easy, when battered by advertising on all fronts, to forget that we really don’t need to buy new clothes every season, and that smart purchases can make for a wardrobe that lasts a lifetime. Take, for example, the gunclub sport coat featured above. No, it’s certainly not the universal constant that is the navy blazer, but look at how easily it’s worked into a great outfit that doesn’t look like it came from a cookie cutter. There’s no reason to limit yourself to the most basic of basics; what matters is finding clothing that you know you’ll wear regularly.

I’ll also note that in Roycru’s original WAYWT submission, he’s wearing very accessible brands. In a sea of bespoke Italian suits, high-end denim, and hand-made shirts, sometimes it’s refreshing to be reminded that the key to looking great isn’t necessarily to bankrupt yourself.

 

 

Fantastic Deals from the Styleforum Classifieds

If you haven’t checked our B&S section recently, you’re missing out. Here are some fantastic deals from the Styleforum classifieds that offer great style and great value.


Suits

RICHARD JAMES NAVY SEISHIN SLIM-FIT BRUSHED COTTON TWILL SUIT, SIZE 38R

Eidos Navy Solaro suit, Size 36/38s

Orazio Luciano navy blue suit, size 52

Sartoria Partenopea navy suit, size 44/46

 

SEE MORE SUITS


Shirts

Kiton Napoli light blue dress shirts, size 40/15.75

Eton contemporary dress shirts, size 16

SHIRTS FROM CHESTER BARRIE, ETON, HUGO BOSS, size 41/42

Post-Imperial Lagos shirt, size S

SEE MORE SHIRTS


Shoes

St. Crispin’s Mod 108, size 7.5F (8.5US)

Brooks Brothers #8 Cordovan Wingtip, size 9.5D

Carmina brown cap-toe oxford, size 9.5UK (10.5US)

Alden Ravello straight tip bluchers, size 11

Edward Green Berkely, size UK9 (US10)

Allen Edmonds x Massdrop unlined chukkas, size 9

Guidi Horse Leahter Backzip Boot, size 45 (fits 44)

SEE MORE SHOES


Sport Coats

Eidos x NMWA blazers, size 52L

Orazio Luciana navy shadow stripe blazer, size 54/52R

SEE MORE SPORT COATS


Bottoms

13 PAIRS OF BNWT ORLEBAR BROWN “BULLDOG” SWIM SHORTS – 4 COLORS – SIZES FROM 30 TO 38

Kapital Century Denim Cisco Sumi x indigo 7S, size 34

RRL Low Straight Raw Selvedge, size 33×34

Eidos linen drawstring pants

Rota x NMWA trousers, size 54

SEE MORE SHORTS AND TROUSERS


Outerwear

BILLY REID LEATHER BOMBER JACKET WITH REMOVABLE SHEEPSKIN COLLAR, size S

Robert Geller Emil Bomber, size XL

Isaia Aquaspider cashmere coat, size 40

Luigi Bianchi Mantova grey coat, size 50

Zegna Couture mohair harrington, size 50

SEE MORE OUTERWEAR


Ties

Panta clearance: multiple ties

Breuer scarves: blue, grey, brown

Ties: CAPPELLI, DRAKE’S, PANTA, YELLOW HOOK, TIE YOUR TIE, MARINELLA

 

SEE MORE ACCESSORIES

The Best Styleforum Member Outfits, Aug. 21 – Sept. 13

Today, enjoy some of the best Styleforum member outfits posted in the last two weeks. Whether you’re interested in Classic MenswearStreetwear & Denim, or a combination of the two, we hope you’ll find some inspiration in the photos below – and when you’re done looking, be sure to share your own outfit with the community.

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Member Focus: Chocsosa

Chocsosa has been a Styleforum member for a long, long time. Over the years, he’s had time to hone in on an impeccable – and classic – personal style – no small feat when you’re 6’8. Here, he talks about the early days of hiding his frame, as well as what encouraged him to start down the road to where he is today.


My style has definitely changed over the years. In my earlier days, it was more urban stuff – I was a product of the 90’s. So, for me it was gear like Karl Kani, Tommy Hilfiger, FUBU, polo sweaters, and oversized champion sweat shirts. It was easier then for me. Everything was bigger and baggier and that worked for my frame. I was 6’8 (still am) and probably a buck 85 soaking wet. I felt the oversized clothing helped hide my frame. So, for me it was interesting when I had to purchase my first suit. It was for prom and the salesman could not find anything long enough, inseam wise. I ended up getting a suit that was three times my size just to get the inseam right. It was barely tailored, but that worked for me because the goal was to be in and out of this “monkey suit” within a couple hours, so I didn’t sweat it. Lucky enough, there are no prom pictures out there, because I can only imagine how crazy I looked.

College was no different. It was the late 90’s and I still was comfortable in the baggy clothing that was still in style then. I was a poor college kid on academic scholarship without two pennies to rub together. So for the most part I was still rocking the gear from high school. I think the only thing I added at this point were some butters (Timberland’s), some Nike Air Force Ones (all white) and some old retro Jordans that were gifted to me from a brother of a friend who wore the same size shoes that I wore, worked the streets and had more shoes than he could handle. I had one white button down shirt and a wide striped tie that I wore to college functions when dressing up was required. The clothing was important because I did not have much but I was able to blend in (as much as I could) when I was in and out of college. I was a student athlete that was trying to make it through. Between all my honors classes my freshman year and the strenuous responsibilities of basketball, I did not have much time to dedicate to my wardrobe when there was no money available.

After college was when I started my sartorial journey to where I am today. At that point I had added some pea-coats, dress shirts and slacks but I still had no idea what I was doing. I needed to dress well for work as I was in a client facing role, so I was trying to look as put together as possible. I researched everywhere. I found some good beginner information from the GQs and the Esquires of the world, but it was not enough – even though they gave you an elementary education on how some stuff should fit there was still a lot of information lacking, I felt. It was on a tip from the Style Guy column from the late Glenn O’Brien (R.I.P) that I googled Styleforum and ended up on its doorstep. It was earth shattering to me because there was an answer to any sartorial question I ever had right at my finger tips. 10 years in and I’m still here, and I still find it a valuable resource and an inspiration almost every day.

My style now is more based on structure than pattern mixing. I like a clean garment with very little pulling, moderately structured shoulders, a nipped waist, open quarters (not aggressively so), higher rise (not aggressively so) and two inch cuffs (where I can find them). I am not a loud pattern guy, but I do like more subdued colors and palettes that mix well together. In my casual gear I wear a lot of outerwear and blazers that are cut slim with slim chinos or denim and boots or loafers. I find myself always coming back to those choices all the time and my wardrobe purchases reflect that.

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Impeccable Outfit Inspiration from Betelgeuse

impeccable outfit betelgeuse styleforum

 

Every so often, an outfit gets posted in the CM WAYWT thread that makes everyone pause, take a deep breath, and say: “Whoa.” This is one such. In many ways, it’s the archetypal Styleforum outfit, but executed to an incredible standard. No wonder the immediate response to Betleguese’s post was so glowing.

The ingredients are basic: navy tie, striped shirt, grey trousers, chukka boots, and a sport coat. However, the details make it stand out. Firstly, the jacket is brown, which prevents the ‘security guard’ look occasionally granted by a blue jacket. Second, everything fits perfectly. Take note in particular of the trousers – which Peter has covered elsewhere.

Really, there’s not much else to say. If you’re wondering how you can achieve this level of perfection, perhaps the best answer comes from this comment left by @heldentenor:

“I think I first saw that jacket of @Betelgeuse‘s about four years ago. Loved it then, still love it now. Awesome fit.”

That’s right – four years. Barely any time at all in the life of a jacket, but it shows that Betelgeuse is comfortable with his clothing, and that he has had time to wear the jacket enough to know exactly how to wear it.

The Appeal of Soft Tailoring

We all like to think we’re honing in on our “one true style”: the essence of who we are, expressed through our clothes. Our “cover letter to the world,” authentically articulated and intentionally discovered. Many – myself included – also want to look timeless. Yet sometimes I wonder whether my tastes were just shaped by the prevailing winds of the #menswear movement at the time I joined, and if I’ll find myself hopelessly out of date in another five years regardless. A little bit of the 2000s Ivy resurgence, a heavy dose of soft Neapolitan tailoring, trim flat-front trousers, double monks – you can probably date me to a 3-4 year period of time.

The solace I take when this thought crosses my mind is that whether or not what I like is considered “in fashion,” a rooting in a look that is stylish no matter what time period it originated in can always be appreciated. Soft tailoring is one of those deep roots that you can tap into.

It is nearly universal in the sense that every tailoring tradition of the world includes soft tailoring in its history. Neapolitan tailoring has dominated the conversation for several years now, but never forget the British drape cut essentially inspired it, nor that America’s sack cut reigned for decades.

No matter which silhouette you prefer, there is a strong case to be made for soft tailoring in the casual world of today. Here’s why:

1. Soft tailoring is more comfortable

Let’s be real: no form of tailored clothing will be more comfortable than shorts and a T-shirt. But a soft jacket (cut hopefully with a bit of extra room to reach and move around) with a lightweight canvas or even none at all can bridge the gap. Brands on the higher end who do this well include Boglioli, Corneliani, Caruso and Sartoria Formoa. Somewhat below that is Eidos, Ring Jacket, and Canali. In the lower end is LBM 1911 and SuitSupply. Of course, all those brands can be found on eBay or the Styleforum buying and selling forum, which can lead to amazing deals on high-end clothes

2. Soft tailoring is conducive to off-hours leisure

If you like to wear tailoring even when it’s not required (as I do), soft jackets can help in softening your appearance in less formal settings. To be clear, wearing any form of jacket with lapels will make you look “dressed up” to most. But there are some good in-between options out there that connect casual outerwear influences with tailoring influences. Engineered Garments and Private White VC are two good examples that lean more towards the casual end of this spectrum.

3. Soft tailoring pairs naturally with casual fabrics that pair well with other casual wardrobe items

Summer fabrics like linen, cotton, linen blends (and for the adventurous, madras) pair extremely well with open-collar shirts, light jeans, chinos, linen/linen-blend trousers, and suede loafers. Tweeds and heavy fabrics look right at home with Oxford button down shirts, wool ties, suede loafers, and chunky wingtips or boots. Academics wearing well-worn elbow-patched tweed jackets from Brooks Brothers with an OCBD and penny loafers is a clichéd look, but one that’s rooted in history. It will never be out of style, and the comfort afforded by the softly tailored jacket makes sense for a life on campus.

4. Soft tailoring transitions well from dressed up to dressed down

Many times when my wife and I know we’ll be going out with friends at the end of the day, I know if I wear a softly tailored jacket and the right pair of shoes (usually suede), all I’ve got to do is take off my tie and put on a pair of jeans and I’m good. The two main factors at play are the softness of the tailoring as well as the fabric it’s made from. I tend to wear sport coats with odd trousers instead of suits, which makes it easier to simply change pants, but companies such as Eidos and Suit Supply do make suits in fabrics that are easy to break apart.

Ultimately, who you are is conveyed most importantly by your presence, personality, intellect and heart. Clothes can help make a first impression, but past that, it’s all up to you. The benefits of soft tailoring come into play by making you look good, feel great for knowing that part is taken care of, and allowing you to be comfortable. And once your brain is free to stop worrying about that, then your true character can really shine.

Dress for Aperitivo with An Acute Style

dress for aperitivo

First, an admission: @AnAcuteStyle is not in Italy. But when Arianna goes out of her way to describe a not-too-stuffy-but-still-put-together outfit suitable for aperitivo al fresco in late summer, I think it’s fair to bend the boundaries a little bit – especially when the outfit in question would be at home anywhere drinks are drunk and salty snacks are snacked.

My own experiences of aperitivo have been limited to my adventures at Pitti Uomo, and have largely taken in places patronized by men and women dressed much more nicely than myself (think of bars along the Arno, palazzos in the city center, and songstresses in floor-length gowns).  AAS would fit right in with that scene – much better than I ever do. That’s because his very East-Coast American look is both sharp and soft (yes, sharp and soft) enough to pass muster on the other side of the Atlantic as well. Strong roots, if you will.

I’ve always been a fan of blue-on-blue, and if you’re traveling for your aperitivo a sport coat in navy cotton is a fantastically versatile option that can be worn on the plane or with the collar turned up against an evening chill. When the weather starts to turn – chilly in the morning and evenings – I really like denim and chambray shirts for their versatility. They look good both under a jacket and alone, and with the appropriate weave you can get that lovely crunchy-cool-but-insulating feeling of a linen shirt.

The heavy tassel loafers and O-ring belt pull the outfit more towards the American than the Italian, but I think that’s why the balance works so well. Combined with a madras ball cap (I’ll admit I couldn’t find one in stock to link to), you’ll be ready to pursue Italy’s favorite pastime no matter where you are.

Labor Day Menswear Sales List

Here’s our Labor Day Menswear Sales List for 2017. Know a sale that’s not listed? Put it in the comments below, and we’ll add it. 

Happy shopping!


Acrimony: 20% off with code LABORDAY2017

Allen Edmonds: Labor Day Sale! Save 50-100$ on many styles.

Antonioli: markdowns up to 50% off final sale

Aphrodite: extra 15% off with code hurry15

Aureus Shoes: 30% off with code STARS30 on regular priced items till 7/5 + Free shipping

Backcountry.com: Up to 50% off gear and apparel, PLUS 30% off one full-price Arc’teryx item

Baracuta: sale up to 50% off

Barney’s Warehouse: Up to extra 40% off sitewide

Billy Reid:  reductions of up to 60% off

Bloomingdale’s: Save an extra 40-60% on all sale items

Blue and Cream: extra 20% off with code EXTRA20

Bluefly: up to 85% off

Bodega: Save 50% or more

Brooks Brothers: Many deals – 50-70% off

Cali Roots: 50-70% off

Cedar & Hyde – 70% off

CENTURY 21:  $30 off a purchase of $150 +, $40 off a purchase of 300+; plus other deals on-site.

Club Monaco: 20% off 200+, 25% off 300+, 30% off 400+ with code FALL17

Corridor NY: 15% off with code “WinterIsComing

Cruvoir: Additional 20% off sale items

Denimio: Minor markdowns in sale section

Division Road, Inc.: Extra 20% off with code SUMMERFLASH20

Dope Factory: 15% off sale items with code OFF15

East Dane: New styles added to sale!

eBay: 20% coupon with code P20LABORDAY

eHaberdasher: New items added to sale, up to 80% off retail

END: Summer sale – up to 50% off

Epaulet: Various sales on clothing and footwear

Farfetch: 10% off your first order with code a10xff, up to 60% off sitewide

Firmament Berlin: sale up to 50% off

Forward: New items added to sale

Flannels: up to 70% off – final reductions

Frances May: 10% of sales donated to Hurricane Harvey relief

Gentry NYC: All fall/winter 70% off

Gilt: The Labor Day event: up to 90% off

Goodhood: Up to 70% off – final reductions

Hanger Project: Assorted deals in sale section

Haven shop: Assorted deals in sale section

HBX: Assorted deals in sale section

Hotoveli: Assorted deals in sale section

Huckberry: Clearance section – various deals

Hunting Ensemble: Assorted deals in sale section

Idol Brooklyn: Assorted deals in sale section

Independence: additional markdowns up to 60% off

Indigo and Cotton: summer sale up to 60% off

Isaia: 40% off a selection

J. Crew: 30% off sale items with code YESPLEASE

Jonathon + Olivia: up to 80% off

La Garçonne: 20% off Sale items with code 99LDAY20

Last Call: extra 30-75% off everything

Levis:  code LAB30 for 30% off your entire purchase

Linde Le Palais: sale up to 70% off

LN-CC: Extra 20% off sales items with code LN20SALESS17CC

LOIT:  SS markdowns

Luisa Via Roma: extra 20% off sale items at the checkout

Magasin: 50% off with code SUMMERSALE

Matches: sale on now for up to 60% off

Mohawk: 20% off sale with code BBQ17

Mr. Porter: Summer sale ongoing

Neiman Marcus: up to 65% off

Nordstrom: Additional savings, up to 40% off

Nordstrom Rack: extra 25% off clearance

North American: 40% off until Sunday with code EXTRA40

Orion Leather: 10% off $50, 15% off $100, 25% off $150

Tanner Goods: extra 15% off sale items with code EXTRA

The Next Door: up to 60% off

No Man Walks Alone: extra 10% off with the code HARVEY – 10% of proceeds go towards charity for people affected by the hurricane.

Other Shop: 10% off your first order with code NEW-MEM-10-OFF

Pegg & Son: sale ongoing

Ralph Laurenup to 50% off + take an additional 30% off with the code FINALE

The Real Real: 20% OFF with the code REAL

Rooney Shop: EXTRA 15% off with the code EXTRA15

Saks 5th Ave.: final sale – up to 75% off

Sartoriale: additional items added to the outlet

Self Edge: extra 15% off during Labor Day Weekend WITH CODE SummerSeventeen

Shoes.com: use the code LABORDAY17 for 25% off

Sierra Trading Post: new items added to the sale

Slam Jam Socialism: sale up to 60% off

SSense: sale up to 70% off

Standard and Strange: – new sales items added

Steven Alan: use code SUMMER for an additional 50% off sale items

StyleBop: Up to 70% off

Superdenim: up to 70% off

Taylor Stitch: save up to 50%

Tessabit: up to 60% off sale

Tres-bien: further reductions – up to 60%

Uncle Otis: up to 40% off

UnderstudyLASTCHANCE for an extra 15% off

Unis: new sale items added

Vince: extra 25% off with code LDAY25

The Webster: EXTRA 20% OFF SALE with LABORDAY2017

Wrong Weather: up to 50% off

Yoox:  up to an extra 60% off.

ZFACTORIE: Extra 50% off with the code 50OFF

How to Safely Store your Watch

This article originally appeared on Worn & Wound. It has been reprinted here with permission. Words by Hung Doan.

There will come a time when you will need to keep a watch in storage. It may be a watch you rarely wear, a speculative purchase waiting to be flipped, or one that you’re simply saving to pass on to the next generation. My eight-year-old son will get my full-size Omega Seamaster Professional when he comes of age, but until then it’s stored away, safe and sound. Having recently packed that watch away, I thought it would be informative to go over the do’s and don’ts of long-term watch storage.

There are several ways to go about storing your precious watches, from putting them in a bank deposit box or keeping them in a safe at home, to packing them away in a box in the garage. However you decide to store your watches, the following suggestions apply.

Dealing with Moisture

safely store your watchIdeally, watches should be stored in a temperature controlled setting like a safe deposit box or in a secure home safe. But regardless of where they end up, moisture will be a natural enemy of your watches. This is especially true in a cold safe, where moisture and condensation can damage a watch as oils coagulate and lose their lubricating properties. For quartz watches, condensation can be especially damaging to the IC circuits.

To combat the effects of moisture, I recommend storing watches with silica gel, a tip passed on to me by gun owners over the years. It is advice I’ve religiously followed for two decades.

safely store your watchYou can buy silica gel in bulk or recycle the packets that come with practically all electronic gear. My personal recommendation is to get the desiccant gel packets that change color as they soak up moisture. Often, they come in blue. As the moisture builds up the colors change to white or pink, indicating they need to be recharged or replaced.

Boxes and Paperwork

safely store your watch

Boxes, accessories and paperwork are rather easy to store, and worth keeping around for when you decide to sell your watch (“box and papers” can add considerable value to a sale). You should consider storing them in separate locations as boxes can take up considerable space. With paperwork, however, I keep the warranty cards, authenticity certificates and proofs of purchase along with other important documents in the safe. You should separate everything in their own dedicated zip-lock or protective bags.

Moisture can also cause damage to warranty cards and other accessories. Below is an example of two Omega leatherette warranty card holders. Over a 20-year period, the one on the left deteriorated and transferred paint onto the accompanying documents. A separate zip-lock bag, as well as some silica gel, would have preserved the dealer calendar cards and manual.

Appraisal and Insurance

Some homeowners and rental insurance policies offer blanket coverage up to a certain amount. If this applies to you, definitely take advantage of your coverage. In some scenarios, you may opt to have dedicated coverage. Either way, it is strongly recommended you appraise your watches, especially the vintage ones. For current watches, you should keep track of market pricing as insurance companies will offer a replacement according to market value. When insuring my watches, I take photographs of everything–boxes, documents, and the watch itself at various angles to indicate condition. In scenarios where I’ve purchased watches from other collectors or through non-traditional channels, I provided scanned magazine reviews, catalogs and price lists to support the stated value. In the 1990s, for example, my Sinn 156 Military was unavailable through official US retail channels, so I used a Bell & Ross (B&R sold co-branded Sinn watches early in their life) price list and scanned copies of reviews from Watch Time to secure my coverage value.

Boxes

safely store your watch

As I noted above, boxes take up a lot of space, but keeping them is paramount in maintaining value. Finding a replacement box on eBay isn’t difficult for brands like Rolex and Omega, but they can cost you $100-300 a pop so holding on to the original is worth it from a monetary standpoint alone. For smaller brands, finding a readily available replacement may not be so easy, so it is important to keep track of what boxes go with what watch (and era, as manufacturers often alter their presentation boxes). As a buyer, you should do your due diligence and research beforehand to make sure that you’re getting the appropriate boxes with your watch.

Maintenance and Inherent Risk

Idle watches over the long term can be problematic. Quartz watches risk the hazard of battery corrosion and leakage. With these, you should always remove the batteries. I recently put away a Bulova Moon Watch and a rare Omega LCD Speedmaster for long-term storage. The batteries were removed from each watch to ensure they not get damaged.

safely store your watchMechanical watches have their own set of hazards. As oils dry, a movement can freeze. That is why it is often recommended that mechanical watches are wound and worn periodically. However, there is no escaping the fact that oils will need to be replaced. Even unworn watches will need to be sent in for eventual service. If you have a speculative watch you plan to flip in 10 or 20 years, you may forgo service and inform future buyers of the situation, as some would prefer NOS (New Old Stock) status.

safely store your watch
OMEGA CAL. 565 MOVEMENT FROZEN WITH DRY OILS.

Since the late ’90s, many companies have heavily invested in lubrication R&D. Rolex and Seiko especially have been pioneers in this regard. My dad used to tell me, “change the oil in your car every 3,000 miles and service your watch every three years.” This no longer applies. Just like with cars, there are now synthetic oils that significantly increase maintenance intervals. When Rolex first announced their new oils, there was speculation with regard to how long watches could go without service. Now in 2016, the recommended interval for watches manufactured after 2015 is a whopping 10 years.

For mechanical watches, I recommend getting a tool like a timegrapher. In addition to measuring accuracy, timegraphers offer a snapshot of the health of your watch (a low amplitude or high beat rate can be a sign of mechanical failure). For example, with most modern ETAs, anything under 250 amplitude means your watch should be taken in for service. With some watches, catching this early could mean saving hundreds of dollars in overhaul fees.

safely store your watch

Conclusion

There are many approaches you can take toward storing your watches and this write-up provides a good primer. There is no one absolute way to store your watches,  but whatever you do, keep in mind the key points I wrote about above regarding temperature and moisture, general maintenance, and diligent record keeping. You may not plan to store a watch for 10 to 20 years, but my recommendations are practical even for short term storage.

safely store your watch

Member Focus: KamoteJoe

You might be surprised to learn that Streetwear and Denim poster @KamoteJoe didn’t start his journey looking like a photo edit of impossibly cool Japanese brands. We all start somewhere, and Mr. KamoteJoe is no different. Follow along as he describes what brought him to his current, stand-out style, and what he learned along the way.


“Mixing similar shades of color in the same outfit?” was a question I posed to /r/malefashionadvice some 3+ years ago in the middle of my junior spring of college. My other open tabs most likely included TSBMen (now Articles of Style), Put This On, A Continuous Lean, and Fashionbeans. Though I had a penchant for rules and how-to’s, I asked this question because I often broke this “cardinal rule” of mixing blue and black together in my early WAYWT posts, much to the chagrin of others. My then go-to combo were these Black Heschung derbies purchased on ebay for $40 and a Diesel x Self Edge Iron Heart pair found in a Greenwich Village Goodwill for $10. I liked them for rather innocuous reasons: I got them for cheap and people online told me they were from quality brands.

My early interest in clothes originated from two sources: the Styleforum Thrift and Discount Bragging thread and my being in a northeast liberal arts college where oversized fisherman sweaters and vintage Reyn Spooner Hawaiian shirts dotted my peers like a Dunkin’ Donuts on the I-91. Back then, I barely knew what it meant to have a personal style. I was an international student starting a new life in the USA – and culture shock was the best way to describe my confusion with American customs and values. How could I communicate that I was beginning to understand these things? Through clothes of course! I made a habit of checking out the local Goodwill and frequenting ebay for cheaper clothing that allowed me to try All-Black, Vintage Americana, and the MFA uniform. I even started a photoblog with a dear friend as an excuse to skirt more pressing responsibilities. There was so much information out there that I never envisioned being able to narrow the endless possibilities into a concise vision of what I wanted for myself.

The time came for me to pack my belongings and head home to the Bay Area for post-graduate life. Because a “real job” was not waiting for me, I continued this thrifty approach until my breakthrough moment in the fall of 2015. I purchased a Kapital denim ring coat off /r/rawdenim with barely any knowledge of the brand and its offerings. Upon its arrival, I remember spending an hour trying to figure out the button configuration and how the heck I was supposed to wear it. It was the first non-form-fitting jacket I had ever owned and I could have easily passed it on as another expensive mistake in my style journey. But I didn’t bend this time.

Slowly but surely, I began trading my white sneakers, slim button downs, and bombers out for unconventional and wider pieces from more niche labels. One thing led to another and, feeling empowered to build up my wardrobe, I continued to scour Grailed and local consignment stores for the brands I wanted. As my style started changing, the impulse to purchase something based solely due to its label had waned. That’s when I thought to myself So this is what it means to have a personal style. It was no longer a question of what to wear but what would I wear.

To this day, dressing up in the morning is one of the things I look forward to when I wake up. There’s a consistent sense of pleasure that I derive from knowing that I’m wearing some of the best-made clothes out there. If you went and told my 2014 self that “Made in Japan” would dominate the care tags of my clothes, that I only wear slimmer fitting pants on a night out, and that I do not even consider wearing any tailoring except for special occasions, then 2014 me would have probably closed all those clothing tabs and chosen another hobby. It’s been a journey rife with mistakes and mishaps, but my fashion identity would not be what it is without this learning experience.

You’ll notice that my wardrobe leans towards Japanese Americana: Kapital, Engineered Garments, and Nepenthes labels (Needles, South2West8) to name a few. These are clothes that may seem normal from afar but there’s always a detail or two about them that makes them very unique. Kapital’s mantra of wearing clothes that make you happy really resonated with me and it’s made this hobby less about impressing and more about wearing clothes that are an extension of my personality. Looking to the future, I might venture into more Junya and artisanal label territory but I wouldn’t want to make any sort of compromise on my lifestyle because I still buy clothes that are meant to be lived in. What’s a garment without the story that the owner passed onto it? You carry your stories, values, and experiences on the clothes you wear – might as well enjoy them! I am still on an inexplicable honeymoon with clothing that has led me to the most knowledgeable, kind, and genuine people inside and outside this community. I cannot thank the Styleforum community enough for helping me find a unique way of expressing myself.

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