The Best Aprons Money Can Buy

The apron is a criminally underrated and under-used garment. While protecting your shirt (or your naked torso, for the more daring among us) from spattering oil is a noble cause, cooking isn’t the only occasion that’s suited for apron-wearing. They’re handy in the garden, in the garage, in the shop, and for any other activity where you’re likely to get yourself at least a little bit filthy. I like to buy ‘souvenir’ aprons when I travel, but these – although fun – are generally made of flimsy cotton that doesn’t stand up well to the repeated washing that most aprons endure, which can leave you with fading, wrinkled aprons. No one wants that. Besides, although a simple apron is a perfectly effective garment, there are a few details – like pockets – that can make life lived in an apron so much more fulfilling. With a bit of longevity in mind, as well as a bit of style, here’s my list of the 5 best aprons money can buy.


1. For the Artisan: Vanda Fine Clothing Irish Linen Apron ($50.49)

Vanda’s beautiful Irish Linen apron sports beautifully large pockets front pockets, as well as a single smaller, meat-thermometer sized pocket. Perhaps the most elegant option on this list, the color is gorgeous, and the whole thing looks so damn nice that I might be a little afraid to get it dirty.

  • Elegance: 7/5 stars; a beautiful accessory suitable for any number of pursuits. Practically a piece of tailored clothing.
  • Bare Skin Factor: A full 8/8, perfect for shirtless cooking when the weather’s nice; equally at home with a shirt and tie.
  • Utility: 12/13; the pockets look ideal but I worry about grease spots.

2. For the Gardener: Carrier Company Cotton Drill Apron (55 GBP)

If you’re often in the garden, either digging in the dirt or hosing things off (or changing your car oil), this very, very sturdy cotton drill apron from Carrier Company is an excellent bet. It will, of course, function perfectly in the kitchen, although its slightly rougher nature begs you to wear it in the great outdoors. If you live somewhere wet, windy, or otherwise wild, this option – with its extra width and extra-long straps – is the natural choice.

  • Elegance: 3/5; a true working apron suitable for working pursuits involving dirt or very hot pans
  • Bare Skin Factor: 3.5 /4; may be lacking in pizzazz, although likely perfect when worn with wellies.
  • Utility: 17/9; excellent pockets and excellent length make this a fantastically functional option.

3. For lovers of tortilla: La Portegna leather and water-resistant canvas apron (70 GBP)

It is no surprise that the Spanish option looks as though it would be perfectly at home in a tiled courtyard or in front of a professional range – or even with a brush and tin of shoe polish. This one hits all the right notes: hard-wearing without being dowdy, elegant without being precious; it’s the paprika your thinly-sliced potatoes so desperately need. Add the supple leather that will age over time and you have yourself an heirloom apron.

  • Elegance: 17 stars; the beautiful colors offered as well as the single front pocket of beautiful, vegetable-tanned leather make this a gorgeous option.
  • Bare Skin Factor: 4/6; solely due to the lovely colors and materials you may want to accessorize your apron with a fine shirt or cashmere sweater.
  • Utility: 3/3; a single pocket is likely all you’ll ever need, and despite the lack of an adjustable neck strap the water-resistant canvas makes this a sure win.

4. For the Denimhead: American Native Goods Selvage Denim and Leather Apron ($185)

Are you still obsessed with six-inch selvage cuffs? Are the seats in your car stained blue from years of crocking denim? Do you lust after things like handmade knives and well-polished stones to put on your mantlepiece? Look no further, because this selvage denim and leather number is perfect for you. With one chest pocket and a leather kangaroo pocket, it has room for all of your German-made drafting tools, and after a few months of rinsing artisanal coffee grounds out of the denim you’ll have fades so nice you’ll want to wear it under your denim trucker and over your heavy jeans.

  • Elegance: 2/5; made for HARD WORK, which is SERIOUS BUSINESS.
  • Bare Skin Factor: 16/37; not recommended for the average shirtless person; if you are bearded and very muscular you’ll have better luck.
  • Utility: 15/10; guaranteed to protect the rest of the denim you’re wearing underneath it.

5. For the Cook: Haküi Bib Apron (10,000JPY, ~100USD)

For the serious chef, or the chef who thinks they’re serious, or for the person who really wants a nice apron, look no further than this beautiful and beautifully-designed masterpiece. Featuring brilliant design details that go beyond just “a pocket,” this apron is perhaps the pinnacle of apron technology. It’s handsome, is functional, and at home in a number of environments. Keep in mind that when you inevitably by one, you’ll have to do so by email. 

  • Elegance: 100%; you’ll cut a fine figure anywhere you go, and depending on the color you choose you’ll be right at home in any situation, whether it involves fancy knives or seed packets. Note that it lacks some of the fun ‘details’ of the other choices in favor of a minimal appearance and raw utility.
  • Bare Skin Factor: 50/43; I want to wear it right now.
  • Utility: Off the charts. With numerous pockets, slits so that you can access trouser pockets, and fully adjustable straps, this is the ur-apron you’ve been dreaming of. While not suitable for welding, I struggle to think of many other household chores that would not be made instantly more satisfying through the wearing of this apron.

Our Picks for Versatile Summer Loafers

It seems as though everyone who’s interested in menswear is currently obsessed with loafers. That makes sense, for a few reasons. First, it’s no secret that for most menswear enthusiasts, their hobby is far from a necessity – we don’t live in a world that demands formal dress, and loafers come in enough shapes and sizes that, despite being a more casual option than a laced shoe it’s fairly easy to find something that suits your needs. Second, and more simply, they’re a good summer shoe. Third, and maybe this is just me, there’s something to be said for never having to worry about your laces.

Whatever the reason, spring is a great time to pick up a pair of loafers. You’ll be able to wear them straight through summer the autumn, and going sockless (don’t actually go sockless – wear loafer socks) with the breeze around your ankles feels great. You can wear them casually or with tailored clothing, with loose or slim silhouettes. In essence, you’ve got a lot of options. Loafers come in many shapes and silhouettes, from the soft and slipper-like to the robust and chunky, and most are ready for a loving place in your wardrobe. I could probably lay out a list of twenty pairs, but I’ll try to keep things simple and break them down into categories.  Enjoy, and remember – you can still join the Streetwear Loafer Challenge, which ends this weekend.


Lightweight

Minimally lined or unlined, these are soft and forgiving. They tend to look good with more casual outfits, though certainly there are exceptions – unlined tailoring, especially in light, summer colors, being one such.

1. Christian Kimber Positano

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Unfortunately, these are already almost entirely sold out, but you can still the navy version. They’re sleek and unlined, and easy to slip on and off – perfect for neighborhood use or your travel needs.

2. Res Ipsa Kilim

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Although these might not be the easiest to wear with tailored clothing, I can see them looking very nice both with odd trousers and a polo under a lightweight jacket, or with faded denim. They also come in plain suede, if you’re afraid of color.

3. La Portegna Travel Slippers

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

While these might seem too unstructured for daily wear, I have often seen José Urrutia, the brand’s founder, wearing them with white or neutral chinos at Pitti Uomo and they look great – relaxed and supple, with a great depth of color. Plus, they roll up so you can stuff them in your carry-on. Brilliant.


Belgian

These have been popular for a long time, and the late Glenn O’Brien was a well-known fan. Several companies make the style, at varying prices.

1. Belgian Shoes ‘Henri’

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

The classic version, favored by well-dressed men worldwide.

2. Baudoin & Lange ‘Sagan’ Tassel

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

A relative newcomer, and the ready-to-wear line offered by bespoke shoemaker Allan Baudoin. Again, available in many colors, with or without tassels.

3. Rubinacci ‘Marphy’ (available at Mr. Porter)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Rubinacci offers these in a wide variety of fabrics, some not offered by the two brands above, so if you’re after a more adventurous color you may want to take a gander despite the higher price tag.


Midweight

Don’t google that – I just made up generic, catch-all term for the ‘category’ in which most loafers will fall. Here, I’ll include Penny loafers, Venetians, and most things with straps and a stacked leather sole. These are the sort that, depending on the style, may be better suited for your tailored wares.

1. J. Fitzpatrick Laurelhurst

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

J. Fitzpatrick makes a variety of loafers, all of which are quite handsome, but I particularly like this ‘Laurelhurst’ model. The wholecut silhouette with a toe medallion and a stacked leather sole make it a slipper that can go anywhere.

2. Rancourt Venetian Loafer (available at Brooks Bros.)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Still a common sight on the East Coast, the Venetian Loafer is a bit stubbier and more casual than some of its ornamented counterparts, making it easy to wear on the weekends.

3. JM Weston 180 Loafer (available at Mr. Porter)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Ah, the iconically French shoe, still worn all over l’Hexagone. Wear them with anything, of any weight and any color, at any time of the year.


Good for Suits

Just what it says – loafers that play well with tailored clothing, and less so with jeans or other casual outfits.

1. Ralph Lauren “Shanley” Tassel Loafer

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

A very classic American tassel, at home with a wide range of tailored outfits.

2. St. Crispin’s 539 Loafer (available at Leffot NYC)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

As sleek and elegant as you could hope for, and fully endorsed by one of our contributors.

3. Alden Full Strap Slip-on (available at The Shoe Mart)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Alden is one of the most renowned brands on the forum, and this pair of loafers will be right at home with your business suits.

The Best Classifieds On Styleforum, Week of 4/10/2017

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best classifieds on Styleforum. This week, he was kind enough to include a double-set of incredible listings. Be sure to subscribe to the Best of B&S thread to stay up-to-date on all his finds.


Suits

@SFA
NWOT Kiton Napoli 100% Linen Indigo Blue Summer Layered Plaid Jacket 50


@A Guy from Shanghai
NWT Classic Cantarelli Solid Dark Gray Wool Suits 52 & 54 (EU). Free shipping within US


@A Guy from Shanghai
NWT Caruso Loro Piana Charcoal Gray LtWeight Flannel Wool Suit 56 7 R (EU). Free shipping within US


@johngreen

NWT Eidos Napoli 3 Piece Suits 48/38 R


@Peli
NEW Belvest for Burberry Blazer and Suit (42R/52R Beige Silk and 44R/54R Blue Wool)


@sartorialnapoli
Perfect Spring/Summer Suit! NWT Boglioli Solid Navy Wool Suit, Hampton Line, 3-roll-2, Handmade US40 38/EU50. Free Shipping within US.


Jackets/Blazers

@JOVAN TOWNSEND
AUTHENTIC $2100 BRIONI COLLECTION CASHMERE BLEND BLAZER SPORT SUIT COAT JACKET L


@mobobs
Sartoria Partenopea 40R Blazers – NWT








@jameshartmann
FS: NEW Ralph Lauren Purple Label ‘Savile Row’ 2 Button Hand Made Black Peak Lapel Blazer 38R


@Manofstyle85
New 46L Ben Silver purple cotton velvet unlined peak lapel sport coat


@glyoung
Luigi Borrelli Cotton Jacket – Like New – Size 50


@aristoi bcn
Gaiola Napoli cream linen houndstooth jacket


@furo
Ultra Rare NWT RLBL Ralph Lauren Black Label Navy Linen Jacket 38S!


Outerwear

@rosenfeldj2
NWT! TOM FORD Trench Coat Tan Beige Double Breasted Outerwear Size 48 Silk Blend


@rosenfeldj2
NWT! TOM FORD Trench Coat Gray Double Breasted Outerwear Size 48 Silk Blend


@Burzan
NWT Eidos “Pincio” Bomber Jacket 38/48 (runs large and fits 40/50)


Shirts

@stifler
NWT Finamore Blue Checked Cotton Dress Shirt Sizes 15, 15.5, and 16


@cinnapox
BNWT Price Drop Borrelli, Charvet, Tom Ford, Cucinelli Shirts sz XS, S, 38/15




Trousers

@rossicar
Howard Yount – Size 34 – Flannel


@sjmin209
NWT PANTS FROM Hertling, Southwick, Haberdash, Polo, J Crew sz 31 32 33 34



@Manofstyle85
$895 sz 32 Trillion by Belvest cashmere/cotton brown soft corduroy flat front pants


@Manofstyle85
$1185 sz 32 Trillion by Belvest silk light blue men flat fronts pants


Shoes

@Satsuke
Television Shoe Wardrobe Sale!



@Faster
C&J “Warlow” in Whiskey Shell NIB


@Warrengardner
John Lobb Bournes 9.5 E UK on 8000 Last


@kontra
FS: Vass Cognac scotch grain Norweger Size EU41


@blenden
EDWARD GREEN CHESTNUT PICCADILLY LOAFER UK9/9.5E (USED/EXCELLENT CONDITION) ON THE 184 LAST


@pkincy
Edward Green Sandringham Spectator in 8.5/9E UK sizing


@Gentlemenclover
VASS MTO ADELAIDE LAST F – 8/ UK – ANTIQUE COGNAC CALF


@ADub
Gaziano & Girling St. James II 6.5D


@Watchman1
FINAL DROP: The Watchman’s TOTALLY INSANE Shoe Drop Thread: GG, EG, CJ



@edmorel
Buday shell cordovan shoes and one pair of russian hatch grain sizes US 8.5/9/9.5




@chipshot
Lindrick by Crockett & Jones Brown Shell Double Leather Sole 8.5E UK BNIB


Ties

@muchisgiven
Drake’s Ties


@johngreen
NWOT Cesare Attolini Napoli 7-Fold Tie


@Dragontail275
Conrad Wu Ties


Miscellaneous

@edmorel
Zegna fabrics for spring/summer (some winter too) including Yak, wool, linen, cashmere



 

Great Buys: 16 Classic Shoes on Styleforum’s Classifieds

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best of Styleforum’s classifieds. Out of that glittering company, we’ve picked our five favorites to share. Click the links below to see the listings!

This week, @razl’s picks were very shoe-heavy. We’ve laid out his picks for your convenience.


Alden Whiskey Shell Cordovan Longwings, 10D – 650$

Alden #8 Shell Cordovan Norwegian Oxford, 10.5 – 550$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

A pair of Alden shoes in the very special #8 cordovan is a must have for many Styleforum members.


Alden 8249 Black Cordovan Blucher, Size 7c/e (Aberdeen Last) – 595$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

Simply put: a beautiful shoe.


Anthony Cleverly “Churchill,” UK8.5 – 600$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

Beautiful patina and a great style make these both good-looking and easy to wear.


Carlos Santos Balmoral Boot, Multiple Sizes – 310$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

A great boot that can be worn dressed up with a suit, or more casually with jeans.


Carmina Semi-Brogue Oxfords, UK9/US10 – 600$

Carmina Polo Suede Longwing Blucher, 8UK – 300$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

The ideal suede shoe, perfect for the upcoming summer season.


Carmina Tan Semi-Brogue Oxfords, 8UK – 349$

Carmina Half-Brogue, UK6.5 – 250$

Carmina Austerity Brogue, 8.5UK/42.5EU – 315$

Crockett & Jones Chelsea, 10DUS – 329$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

If you’re looking for a chelsea boot that won’t get you confused for a Kanye follower, this is the shoe for you.


Crockett & Jones Swansea, 10UK/11US – 350$

 

Gaziano & Girling Thorpe in Arran Grain, 9.5E – 1,000$

Gaziano & Girling Mitchell in Midnight Blue Calf, US13.5E – 900$

Ralph Lauren by Gaziano & Girling “Percival” Monk Boot, 10D – 400$

 

Sutor Mantellassi: Many Shoes in Many Sizes, Starting at 100$

Tricker’s Eaton Boot in Teak Shell Cordovan, 10UK – 700$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

Tricker’s iconic country boot, made up in a gorgeous and long-lasting leather.


Vass Old English II, EU41 (F Last) – 580$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

A gorgeous shoe, well-deserving of the respect the Styleforum community gives to it.


 

The 5 Best Deals on Styleforum’s Classifieds

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best of Styleforum’s classifieds. Out of that glittering company, we’ve picked our five favorites to share. Click the links below to see the listings!


  1. RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL TWEED WINTER COAT SZ L – from @Suited

    This beauty from Ralph Lauren sports all the trimmings: a wool, cashmere and alpaca blend shell; suede detailing everywhere, and a lovely trim fit for a sleek take on a traditional silhouette. Fan-tastic!

    Available for $1,488


  2. GAZIANO & GIRLING ST JAMES II CEDAR/KUDU – from @Keal19

    If you’ve ever wanted a pair of show-stoppers…well, look no further. These were part of a GMTO done through Skoaktiebolaget, which means this might be your only chance to find a pair. Beautiful contrast leather, a beautiful last, and an all-around beautiful shoe.

    Available for $1,200


  3. EIDOS NAPOLI NAVY OVERCOAT 48R – from @robotmitli

    This simple but elegant overcoat from Styleforum darling Eidos Napoli comes in a herringbone fabric made of blended cashmere and wool. A navy overcoat such as this one is just about the ideal outer layer for any tailored wardrobe, and will bring you many, many years of enjoyment.

    Available for $699


  4. LUIGI BORRELLI NAPOLI SPREAD COLLAR SHIRT – from @aph99

    The perfect spread-collar shirt, made in white cotton poplin with barrel cuffs. It’s always good to have a white shirt on hand for when situations demand it, and with one such as this you probably won’t need another.

    Available for $149


  5. CALABRESE 1924 NAPOLI TRAVEL BAG – from @violethour1951

    There’s no feeling quite like that of packing your things into a weekender and taking off for a few days. And there’s maybe nothing better than carrying a bag as nice as this one. Whether it’s going in the trunk of a car, in an overhead bin, or on the train seat next to you, it will wear hard and only get better with age. A true heirloom piece.

    Available for $650


To see all of @razl‘s selections, click here.

Our Best End of Season Sales Picks

It’s your last chance to snag some great deals on winter collections before spring clothes make their way into your favorite shops. Here are some of our best end of season sales picks, great for any wardrobe.


Outerwear

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum stutterheim

 Stutterheim Car Coat – 95GBP at END.

 

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

CM: Camoshita Houndstooth Balmacaan – 711$ at No Man Walks Alone


Knitwear

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

North Sea Clothing Service Shawl Collar – 85GBP

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

John Laing Cashmere Rollneck – 275$ at Hanger Project


Shirts

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Haversack long popover – 115$ at Gentry with code HALFOFF

 

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Luciano Barbera Seafoam stripe – 197$ at Lawrence Covell


Denim and Trousers

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Snow Peak Okayama OX Pants – 155$ at Standard and Strange

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Hiltl for H.Stockton thin-wale corduroy pants in chocolate – 183$ at H.Stockton


Shoes

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Nike Flyknit SE – 86$ at Oki-Ni

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Carmina Tanker Boot in brown scotchgrain – 475$ at Gentlemen’s Footwear


Accessories

SW&D

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Dries van Noten leather portfolio – 376$ at LOIT

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Begg Kishorn cashmere scarf – 340$ at Unionmade


See something you like? If you’re on the hunt for more great end-of-season sales and deals, make sure you’re subscribed to the Styleforum Offical Sales Alert Thread, where we share all the sales, coupon codes, and deals from the best vendors in the world of menswear. You won’t find a better place to stay up-to-date on staying stylish. 

The 3 Wildest Brands at Pitti Uomo 91

In addition to some of the best classic menswear brands, the best accessories, and the all-around best brands, period, Pitti plays host to some crazy and crazily impressive work. Here are three of the wildest brands at Pitti Uomo 91, brought to you by the discerning eye of Arianna Reggio.


OLD RANDA

One of the makers that impressed me the most at Pitti was Old Randa. Andrea, the creative mind behind the brand, caught my eye with his eclectic style. With his thin figure, the arms covered in tattoos, and the slim, straight moustache, he made me think that, if Baudelaire had been alive in 2017, that’s exactly what he would look like.

Since I am an incredibly frivolous person and I tend to dedicate attention to people with charm, I immediately approached Andrea to find out if his creations were as compelling as his style.

This is how I got swallowed up in a spiral of art, history, and tradition that almost left me overwhelmed as if I were drunk.

Andrea is a patina master, which means that he specializes in the art of dyeing leather. Because of his strong personality and his personal background (he worked in theater before dedicating his time to the Old Randa project) his creations are rather unique. Think Bontoni shoes tripping on acid.

Bright colors, such as absinthe green, bright purple, and mustard yellow, are combined using no apparent logic, and they make the shoes look like the skin of exotic, venomous animals.

I pointed at a pair of brogues that looked as if they were coated in the red marble adorning the Medici chapel in Florence.

“Ah, those!” said Andrea with a smile. “I dye them using wine must.”

As it always happens when I hear the word “wine,” I pricked up my ears.

“I retrieved an ancient recipe for making wine in the Ancient Rome. I dip the shoes in the must using an amphorae until they’re almost completely black, and then I polish away the excess until beauty is revealed.”

Then he flipped the shoes to expose the sole, and I was, if possible, even more blown away. On the leather sole of the shoe was impressed the strange figure of an animal; Andrea explained that he has always been fascinated by the drawings of ancient European explorers, who, coming back from their adventures, would try to illustrate the exotic, unknown animals such as lions, peacocks, elephants, and crocodiles. Because these representations were solely based on the memory of the explorers, they were incredibly inaccurate, and looking at them today they seem the drawings of mythological creatures.

I collected Jasper, who didn’t get a single word of the conversation – which was in Italian – and I walked away asking myself if this encounter really happened or I was still getting over last night’s prosecco.  Or if this whole Pitti thing was a dream, and I had just woken up to find out I was at some batshit crazy contemporary art vernissage in Copenhagen.

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FRANCESCO MAGLIA

Francesco Maglia is a big, ruddy man that, if it wasn’t for his perfectly tailored clothes, could easily be mistaken for Santa Claus. I timidly peeked inside their booth attracted by the varicolored umbrellas sprouting from rudimental metal tins, and Francesco Maglia literally dragged me inside and introduced me to his little crew – which were all family members.

“Hello, my dear,” he solemnly said, “I am Francesco V, and this is Francesco VI, my son.”

“Oh.” That’s pretty much everything I managed to say, partly because I was trying to figure out if the guy was shitting me, and partly because my hand had started to go numb in his vise.

“So…what’s going on here? You guys make some pretty awesome umbrellas,” I said, deciding that adulation is always a safe option. Besides, their umbrellas really are quite amazing: they look sturdy and practical, but with a range of colors and shapes that denote careful research in aesthetics. I would say that they’re the type of umbrellas I wouldn’t mind using to beat up a mugger on the bus, only to clamorously open it in a dramatic gesture a minute later and walk away in style, chin to the sky.

“We, young lady,” said Francesco V in his deep, low voice, “We are some of the best umbrella makers in the world.”

I stared at him for a long moment, finding myself speechless again. He said that in such a calm, confident way that I believed him immediately. He proceeded without giving me the time to process the information.

“Everything we sell is exclusively made in our workshop. We are a five-generation umbrella makers and we still use the same methods and processes that Francesco I used when he opened the workshop. Each umbrella requires more than 70 steps to make.

“You like that?” he asked, noticing I was eyeing a beautiful umbrella in cobalt blue.

“It’s really nice,” I replied sincerely, “The wood seems quite solid!”

“It is. It’s a single piece of wood. A whole branch of walnut, actually.”

Francesco went on explaining how they only use the best wood branches to make their handles, and how laborious the process is.

“First, you have to select the branches. Then, you have to straighten them, and that requires a lot of time – up to 6 months – during which the maker steams the wood and softens it in order to bend it to the correct shape.”

I suddenly felt reverential respect for this man, who was clearly passionate about his profession and was taking the time to illustrate his art to me. It broke me a little when his face changed to a sadder expression as he told me that people don’t seem to care about quality anymore.

“People don’t understand that an umbrella like this is an heirloom piece that will last through more than one generation, because my umbrellas simply don’t break. My sister has had hers for over 30 years, and we just recently replaced the canopy: it looks like new again.

“The demand is so low that we had to come to terms with some of our offerings; for example, we are no longer able to offer silk as a choice.  Our fabric is now a blend of cotton, silk, and wool.”

His big smile came back as soon as I told him that I work for a menswear forum (it took a while before he understood what that was) where quality is not only appreciated, but also worshipped like a goddess, and I promised to introduce his brand to the community.

I walked away after one last, vigorous handshake that thankfully didn’t make my $3 Hello Kitty umbrella fall off my tote bag. That would have been embarrassing.

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ESSENZIALMENTE LAURA

Since both Jasper and I have the sense of direction of a blind mole in a maze, we found ourselves lost in the main pavilion more than once trying to find the shopping area, which was supposed to be a pretty big deal this year. During one of our aimless wanderings, we ended up in the area dedicated to maîtres parfumeurs, as in: the beauty section.

Honestly, I feel pretty at ease around beauty aisles, so I suggested going through them in hope to find the shops and maybe even a perfume to bring home as a souvenir.

“But…what does beauty have to do with Pitti Uomo?” objected Jasper.

Oh, God. Men. Always asking irrelevant questions.

“Aren’t you a big connoisseur of fragrances yourself?”

“Yes, but…is this a good use of our time?”

I stared at my colleague in dismay: he succeeded in the attempt of making me feel more guilty than my husband ever has.

“Fine. Let’s go this way, perhaps we will find the…”

“Ohh, look! Roses!” breathed Jasper, waltzing towards the stand of Essenzialmente Laura, which had rows upon rows of elegant perfume bottles protected by crystal cloches.

I followed him to the stand, where a woman was elegantly waving her hand, spraying perfume all around.

“This is Mystic Rose,” she said smiling at us. “It’s part of our collection dedicated to the Bible.

“Roses are a biblical symbol of wisdom and purity. The thorns represent the sins, and the Church itself is oftentimes represented with a rose. Do you like it?”

Jasper seemed pleased with the smell of Mystic Rose, so the woman showed us the rest of the Bible collection.

“This is Incense of the Churches of Rome,” she announced, spraying off the fragrance on a piece of paper and handing it to us.

“It smells…like a church,” I commented stupidly, but I did mean what I said. If you ever entered a big cathedral in Europe – whether it’s Notre Dame or St. Peter’s, you know what I’m referring to: that smell of melted wax, incense, and wood has probably been the same for centuries. It is actually not unpleasant: it instantly brought me back to my trip to Bruges, when I had one of the most intense sensorial experiences of my life. I was walking down the aisle of the enormous cathedral in the central square of the city, and someone started playing the harp in a little hidden chapel. If you have never heard the sound of a harp resonating through the marble walls of a church, let me tell you: it was the most poetical sound my ears have ever perceived, and even if I chased it desperately in hundreds of harp concerts after that day, I was never able to grasp that celestial melody again. It was one, ephemeral moment of pure beauty, and it’s lost forever.

That’s what I was thinking when I smelled Incense of the Churches of Rome: I felt grateful for the privilege of having shared the stage with Beauty one day many years ago, in a semi-desert church in Belgium inundated with the morning light.

Perhaps it’s not a perfume I would wear on a daily basis, but the melancholy those notes of incense instilled in me is more precious than the average “I’d have sex with myself” fragrance.

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So here we are! Hopefully you enjoyed reading about the more unconventional people and brands that populate Pitti Uomo. Watching the photos online and reading about it on fashion magazines and blogs doesn’t even begin to explain the variety of incredible personalities that you can encounter. If you take the time to talk to them, they’ll tell you stories – their stories – that will transcend the menswear field, and you’ll find yourself wondering if you really should be listening to these mad individuals rather than concentrating on the clothes and the products.

Oh, but you can’t help that,” whispers a voice in my head: “We’re all mad here.

The Best Accessories at Pitti Uomo 91

The Best Accessories Brands at Pitti Uomo

1. Ana Lemata

Ana Lemata is less a milliner than a textile artist who happens to make hats – and “passionate” doesn’t begin to describe her approach to her craft. Her hats are by turns whimsical, elegant, and romantic, ranging from traditional designs to hats that are barely recognizable as hats until they’re worn.

Ana was trained by the former milliner to Queen Mother Elizabeth of England, though she also carries a Ph.D in art history. Both skill and knowledge are on display in all her wares, and one gets the feeling that her hats wouldn’t be out of place in the Guggenheim Bilbao. But don’t let the incredible artistry fool you – these hats, made of materials such as beaver felt, vicuna, and straw – are made to last as long as the wearer, with proper care. And, while there are a host of ready-made options available upon inquiry, Ana relishes the opportunity to make bespoke hats for discerning clients.

If you’re in the market for something hand-made, unique, and sure to bring you years of happiness, you should act soon – currently, Ana’s prices are almost criminally low considering the materials used and the amount of work that goes into each piece.

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2. PB 0110

One of the most interesting pieces we saw at Pitti was this undyed leather backpack by PB 0110. This is a German brand that manufactures primarily sleek, modern leather accessories; very much in the vein of Scandinavian design but with a slightly more streetwear bent to them. What that means is that instead of rigid perfection you get a product with a bit more personality than the stereotypically featureless accessories people still tend to associate with ubiquitous minimalism.

Like most of the companies that show at Pitti, PB 0110 is eager to tout the lasting quality of its products. Normally, I’m wary of these claims, but pictures of well-used leather bags suggest that perhaps there’s more than marketing spin to the statements.

Though the articles are available in a range of colors and styles, the undyed leathers are probably the stand-out. Perfect for lugging around your rolls of dead-stock denim and small-batch-roasted coffee beans.

3. The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear

If you spend any time involved in the #menswear community online, you’ve probably heard of The Bespoke Dudes – or at least of the founder, Fabio Attanasio, who’s a veritable Instagram celebrity. The eyewear is based on classic – mostly 50’s and 60’s – styles, but updated for a more modern look. Every pair, whether wire or acetate, is manufactured and hand-finished in Italy, and if nothing else it’s a great alternative to the Luxottica behemoth. Of course, you’ll have to make sure the shapes and widths work for your face, but the details, lenses, and finishes may just pull you away from that free pair of sunnies you keep in your car’s cupholder.

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4. La Portegna

We’ve been singing the praises of La Portegna since at least 2014, and nothing has changed our appreciation for these lightweight travel goods and accessories. While in years past the offerings were very voyage-focused, La Portegna has expanded somewhat to include a wider range of women’s goods, along with shoes and sneakers for both sexes. The latter being, as José told me, a natural extension of the brand, despite (his words) the ubiquity of minimal sneakers.

To me, the appeal of La Portegna is how good the products feel in the hand, and how comforting it is to bring them with you on a daily – or irregular – basis. The designs and leathers continue to be attractive to both the eye and the hand, and offer a relieving middle ground when one is faced on all sides by heavy leather weekenders and Nylon carryalls. And, to José’s credit, his (leather-soled) espadrilles are the only espadrilles I’ve ever considered wearing.

Oh, and if you’re looking for a backpack in La Portegna’s beautiful and long-wearing ‘Sol’ leather, the wait is over.

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(Disclosure: La Portegna provided Styleforum with sponsored goods for a different project in 2015)

5. Merola

Merola is an old standby of Italian glovemaking, and for good reason. Since 1885, they’ve managed not only to hang on to their manufacturing pedigree, but they’ve adapted their line to fit the needs (and hands) of everyone from Kate Winslet in Titanic to your average guy with a smartphone. Of particular note were the gloves lined with tie silk, which is a touch that I can see many Styleforum members finding attractive – and comfortable. The materials and linings remain sumptuous, the finishing top-notch, and the number of styles available mean it’s pretty likely that you’ll be able to find something to keep your hands both warm and stylish, whether you’re riding a vintage bicycle or just nonchalantly stuffing your gloves in the pocket of your overcoat.

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Waiting for sales in 2016, and my sale picks.

This season, many of the the big-name retailers – the ailing J.Crew and limping Ralph Lauren foremost amongst them, but also big department stores like BarneysSaks Fifth Avenue  and the larger online specialty stores like SSENSE –  held off on price slashing seasonal sales until very close to Christmas, playing a high stakes game of chicken with consumers in a bid to preserve their margins (and according to WWD.com, mostly losing).

This led to a pent-up demand for sales items when the sales finally started – and this post Christmas shopping season felt much more like pre-Great Recession sales than the “start-in-October” free-for-all that we’d gotten used to seeing.

I’ve seen the effect of this in the Styleforum microcosm.  Yes, someone is always going to gripe that sales are not deep enough, but both the traffic through our “Official Sales Thread” and the tone of the comments in that thread have been more positive than I remember from the same time last year.  Spending as much time as I do on the forum, I’m inevitably influenced by the the virtual mood around me.

There are more things that I want this year than I’ve wanted for a bit now.  Unfortunately, I can’t get them all.  So, I’m presenting my humble list to you, in hope that either you’ll 1) send me something, or, failing that, 2) that I’ll live vicariously through one.  Yeah, if you do get something off this list, whether for me or for yourself, please tell me in the comments.

Nearly all of the below are chosen with travel in mind – the traveling circus that is the fashion trade shows starts in January with Pitti Uomo and closes, over a month later, in Las Vegas.


1. Engineered Garments reversible Brookline jacket in navy stripe, ($288, www.theloit.com)

I normally regard any piece that is described as “versatile” with great suspicion, because “versatile” is often synonymous with “boring”.  Mix that with a gimmick like “reversible,” and my spidey-sense is at red alert.  The Engineered Garments Brookline jacket is an exception.  I got  y first Brookline years ago, at a traditional brick-and-mortar on final sale.  It’s one of the less talked about of Daiki Suzuki’s perennial designs, perhaps because it’s sometimes hard to translate the appeal of a piece to a computer screen, so I’m going to post two pictures of it.  One side sports larger, dark buttons on a striped suiting fabric; the reverse side is made from sportswear’s traditional quilted nylon and features a snap button closure.

Engineered Garments Brookline jacket navy striped

Engineered Garments Brookline jacket nylon

2.  Battenwear warmup pants ($161, www.mrporter.com)

Mr. Porter held out, as it usually does, until actual Boxing Day.  I’ve been on a bit of a Battenwear tear recently – loving the 80s hiker vibe that a lot of pieces have, right down to the Battenwear logo – and the pieces, while they have a retro sportswear feel, can fit into a variety of styles, whether you want to be an urban commando or a woodsy hiker.  And it doesn’t hurt that these pants are cut in warm and fuzzy Polartec 200, which will make them freat for winter travel, something I dread as the trade show season looms.

 

Battenwear warmup fleece pants

3. Guidi Chelsea boots ($726 USD, www.ssense.com)

I’ve been a big fan of Guidi’s unconstructed, vat-dyed footwear for about three years running.  A few years ago, the dollar was much weaker against the Euro, and you could expect a pair of Guidi boots to run you about $1000.  For the iconic “986” model with a zipper in the back of the boot, in basic black, you were going to pay a pretty penny, or you were going to the secondary market, or you were going to order from a European retailer – always a crapshoot, given the variable sizing of Guidi footwear due to the vat dyeing process.  If you have the money, at $726, these boots are a strong buy.

(I’ve heard that the Guidi tannery will not sell third parties leather in the colors that they use for their own products, so if you want Guidi colors, you are going to have to buy Guidi)

Guidi 986 boots black

4. Faliero Sarti scarf, ($168, www.farfetch.com)

I like wearing a scarf.  Apart from the variety of practical reasons you’d want a scarf in winter, they are very close to being an actual security blanket.  Every Faliero Sarti scarf I’ve handled has been uniformly luxurious feeling and expensive; the product, I assume, of decades of textile manufacturing.  I typically don’t wear the “huge ass scarf” style that can double as a tablecloth and has been the norm in fashion circles for a while now, but I can see the appeal. At 50% off, I’m willing to give it a shot.

Faliero Sarti Scarf

Farfetch is not a retailer, but more like an agent or a fulfillment and shipment solution for small, often niche, boutiques.  Each piece is sent to Farfetch, where pictures are taken for the site, to maintain consistency, and then sent back to the retailer.  So, the sales are non-uniform, and the prices can vary for the same piece between sizes, or even sometimes be listed twice, at two different prices.  That you can comparison shop on the same online “shop” is a little odd, but it does make things interesting, if nothing else.

5. Mark Cross vintage Duffel bag – ($1199 ($1079 with discount right now), www.barneys.com)

I like leather products.  I really like leather bags.  This bag I’ve admired more than just a few times.  It is elegant and structured, with sharp lines meeting rounded shapes.  I imagine it getting admiring looks while I wait for the flight from Amsterdam to Florence.  Then I will walk on the plane, pass business class, and to the end of the coach seats where I will grunt and stuff it into the remaining space in the overhead compartment.

Mark Cross Vintage Duffel Bag

10 Best Watches for Every Budget

Guys love watches. Is it for status? Is it the mechanical prowess? It is for the utility? Who knows, and you know what, who cares? Here’s a great collection of the best watches to buy for yourself or convince someone to buy for you as the holidays approach.


1.  Swatch System Boreal YIS401G. MSRP: $215

A neat-looking watch with respectable mechanics and for as cheap as you can get without buying a watch meant for a 6th grader. 

Available at Swatch.com


2. Hamilton Khaki Field. MSRP: $445

One of Hamilton’s most popular offerings, the Khaki is a classic American watch. With a suede strap and beige numbers, the Field model is just a bit more fun than the run-of-the-mill model.

Available at Hamilton


3. Hamilton Khaki Pilot Auto. MSRP: $995

No list of best watches would be complete without a pilot’s watch. Hamilton nails it again with classic pilot styling, cool looks, and darn good price. 

Available at Hamilton


4. Nomos Tangente 38. MSRP: $2,330

No one, and I mean no one, does understated elegance like Nomos. The Tangente 38 is as pure as it gets and a bargain when it comes to bang for your buck. 

Available at Nomos


5. Longines Master Retrograde Seconds. MSRP: $3,325

Probably the best-priced complicated watch ever made. The Master Retrograde boasts 4 retrograde hands, day-date functions, and somehow manages to do it without looking looking like an awful cluttered mess. 

Available at Prestigetime


6. Bell & Ross BR01-92. MSRP: $4,800

If you want something really cool and off the beaten, look no further than B&R’s military spec, black carbon coated, square shaped, BR01 beast.

Available at Prestigetime


7. Tag Heuer Monaco. MSRP: $5,350

Is anyone cooler than Steve McQueen? No. Can you be Steve McQueen? Also no. But you can get pretty close with the iconic watch that he sported in the all time great film, Le Mans. Watch the movie, wear the watch.

Available at Prestigetime


8. Glashutte Original Senator Sixties. MSRP: $7,500

Vintage styling and top-notch mechanics join forces for Glashutte’s nod to the 60’s. Go for the gold indices for some extra pop. 

Available at Prestigetime


9. Rolex Datejust 116234. MSRP: $7,950.

You just can’t argue with the Rolex crown, and this about as classic Rolex as it gets. 

Available at Prestigetime


10. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15400. MSRP: $50,500 

 If you just won the lottery, or re-financed your house and took some cash out, this is what you buy. Just make sure you signed that pre-nup.

Available at Prestigetime