Mixing Menswear Textures with Poszetka

mixing menswear textures

I don’t often feature cell phone pictures, but this week I found myself really enjoying @Poszetka’s mixed textures. Tweed, denim, and denim is a great look, especially for something a bit more casual. Like Peter, I’m not a fan of ties with denim, but in this case I’ll allow it both because hey, do what you like, and because the color and texture of the tie in question works with the rest of the outfit. Indigo and tweed is a combination that always works (two heavy, interesting textures), and a Harris Tweed sport coat is one step more dressed up than a wool hunting jacket while connoting some of the same country-ready style. Grey sport coats can prove surprisingly difficult to work into your wardrobe, and tweed – or other, heavier fabrics – makes the piece a bit more versatile. Tweed works with lots of trouser fabrics, from tightly-woven cotton twills to wool or – as seen here – even denim, and if you remove the tie and put on a pair of boots, this is an outfit that’s perfect for autumn anywhere.

Although we can’t see the shoes in question, I tend to avoid leather-soled shoes (that aren’t boots) with denim. However, since there’s a tie in the mix, I think something like this Vass Budapester on a commando sole from affiliate No Man Walks Alone might work well. Other easy options would be chukkas or heavier (think Tricker’s) brogued shoes or boots. One final note is that, if you’re going to opt for thicker cuffs on your denim, I’d definitely suggest removing the tie, as I find that cuffed denim and a tie tends to either look sloppy or too much like the hipster bartender outfit du jour.

 

Impeccable Outfit Inspiration from Betelgeuse

impeccable outfit betelgeuse styleforum

 

Every so often, an outfit gets posted in the CM WAYWT thread that makes everyone pause, take a deep breath, and say: “Whoa.” This is one such. In many ways, it’s the archetypal Styleforum outfit, but executed to an incredible standard. No wonder the immediate response to Betleguese’s post was so glowing.

The ingredients are basic: navy tie, striped shirt, grey trousers, chukka boots, and a sport coat. However, the details make it stand out. Firstly, the jacket is brown, which prevents the ‘security guard’ look occasionally granted by a blue jacket. Second, everything fits perfectly. Take note in particular of the trousers – which Peter has covered elsewhere.

Really, there’s not much else to say. If you’re wondering how you can achieve this level of perfection, perhaps the best answer comes from this comment left by @heldentenor:

“I think I first saw that jacket of @Betelgeuse‘s about four years ago. Loved it then, still love it now. Awesome fit.”

That’s right – four years. Barely any time at all in the life of a jacket, but it shows that Betelgeuse is comfortable with his clothing, and that he has had time to wear the jacket enough to know exactly how to wear it.

Dress for Aperitivo with An Acute Style

dress for aperitivo

First, an admission: @AnAcuteStyle is not in Italy. But when Arianna goes out of her way to describe a not-too-stuffy-but-still-put-together outfit suitable for aperitivo al fresco in late summer, I think it’s fair to bend the boundaries a little bit – especially when the outfit in question would be at home anywhere drinks are drunk and salty snacks are snacked.

My own experiences of aperitivo have been limited to my adventures at Pitti Uomo, and have largely taken in places patronized by men and women dressed much more nicely than myself (think of bars along the Arno, palazzos in the city center, and songstresses in floor-length gowns).  AAS would fit right in with that scene – much better than I ever do. That’s because his very East-Coast American look is both sharp and soft (yes, sharp and soft) enough to pass muster on the other side of the Atlantic as well. Strong roots, if you will.

I’ve always been a fan of blue-on-blue, and if you’re traveling for your aperitivo a sport coat in navy cotton is a fantastically versatile option that can be worn on the plane or with the collar turned up against an evening chill. When the weather starts to turn – chilly in the morning and evenings – I really like denim and chambray shirts for their versatility. They look good both under a jacket and alone, and with the appropriate weave you can get that lovely crunchy-cool-but-insulating feeling of a linen shirt.

The heavy tassel loafers and O-ring belt pull the outfit more towards the American than the Italian, but I think that’s why the balance works so well. Combined with a madras ball cap (I’ll admit I couldn’t find one in stock to link to), you’ll be ready to pursue Italy’s favorite pastime no matter where you are.

Outfit Inspiration: SprezzaTrash

SprezzaTrash (or Ethan), as you may know, is a big fan of thrifting and of vintage styles. Most of the time, he’s wearing vintage tailoring, but I liked this outfit in particular because it could have come from just about any decade, and offers a nice blend of vintage styles that still looks contemporary. Ethan suggests that it’s his take on Bryceland’s style, but it might be more recognizable as a take on the late Bill Cunningham’s signature look:

Bill Cunningham – Image c. Fashables.com

That certainly doesn’t take anything away from how nice it looks, of course, and Ethan’s interpretation is a bit more tailored. If you’re familiar with the Teba jacket, the chore jacket operates similarly here, albeit as a slightly more casual choice of outerwear. In any case, this combination also a great base for a casual outfit – the tie can be removed, the derbies swapped out for sneakers, etc.

If you’re looking for a bleu de travail, there are a number of companies that offer them. Vetra offers a very classic, shape, while Carrier Company also produces a work-ready version, though They don’t come pre-worn, however, so if want you want is sweet fades or patching, I’d suggest searching Etsy for bleu de travail, where you’ll be able to find a selection of vintage pieces in varying shades of blue. The rich indigo color is, obviously the draw.

How to Dress like Cleav

cleav outfit inspiration styleforum dress like cleav styleforum

Our man @Cleav dresses the way that many users of Styleforum aspire to dress: impeccably, gentlemanly, and fuss-free from head to toe. This week, I want to focus on an outfit he recently shared that shows off how strong a relatively simple combination can be when it’s put together perfectly.

First of all, @Cleav’s suit exemplifies why navy is still a men’s wardrobe essential. Paired here with a striped shirt, earthy-red tie, and split-toe derby shoes, it shines purely on the merits of the perfect fit, and is complemented – rather than overshadowed – by the accessories @Cleav has chosen. While this is certainly a more conservative combination than most of what is now shown on Instagram feeds or in Pitti write-ups, many beginners nonetheless struggle to understand that you don’t necessarily need a more complex outfit to stand out. In fact, part of what distinguishes @Cleav is that his outfit choices are consistently executed to perfection, without the distractions of gaudy fabrics, experimental cuts, or overbearing accessories.

Of course, in order to look as good as @Cleav does, you need to make sure your suit fits perfectly, you need to know how to choose a shirt that’s not too busy, and you need to know when a loud accessory is unnecessary. When you’ve managed all that, you’re left with a foundation that’s not just versatile, but sharp enough to pay respect to both the wearer and whatever event he happens to be attending.

Bravo to Cleav, for showing the rest of us how it’s done.

 


Note: this article has been corrected as of 8/21 to reflect that @Cleav is wearing a navy suit, not charcoal as originally written.

 

Outfit Inspiration from AlexRamius

alexramius styleforum

Navy trousers get a bad rap on Styleforum. I read a lot of complaints about versatility, utility, and color matching, but this photo of member Alexramius should change your mind. The patterned sport coat on top helps to balance out the ‘weight’ of the solid color on the bottom, and the heavily-textured tie equally draws the eye upwards. This, my friends, is a great look. I love a good cream jacket, and the subtle PoW check on this model makes it more enticing – and perhaps more versatile – than a solid cream option would be.

I’ve taken the liberty of suggesting a brown shantung tie and navy pocket square below, purely for argument’s sake – those are two colors that I really enjoy when paired with cream, although I think that any subdued – particularly earthy – colors of your choice would be a great match for spring through fall, and offer a pleasing and subtle counterpoint to the bright summer outfits that are still flooding Instagram.

Style Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

styleforum outfit inspiration diplomatic ties diplomaticties styleforum Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

 

This week, we’re revisiting our friend Diplomatic Ties for some outfit inspiration. As you may remember from reading his member focus, he likes to get a little bit adventurous, and while this combination isn’t exactly wild, it’s a great way to break up the monotony of a blue jacket with grey trousers. In particular, I like that he’s chosen black shoes – anathema in the minds of many Stylefarmers – which in this case are a choice that grounds the outfit nicely (for the record, I think brown suede would have worked as well, and with a brown shoe I think the whole look would work very well tie-less).

I’m really enjoying the look of burgundies and purples as an alternative to navy and brown jackets, especially in subdued tones that keep the look from feeling costume-y. Diplomatic Ties’ choice features a subtle pattern and a peak lapel, but I think a solid option, such as this linen Formosa model from No Man Walks Alone, would look equally nice. Combined with a more familiar grey trouser, it’s just enough outside the norm to be interesting, but you’re unlikely to feel uncomfortably loud. Again, you could easily wear this same combination with a brown shoe or a loafer and look equally well put-together.

All credit to DT for some welcome experimentation with color – if you’re not already, be sure to share your outfits in the WAYWT thread.

Alternative Outfit Inspiration from Pitti Uomo

Alternative Outfit Inspiration from Pitti Uomo st

Do you know how difficult it is to find a purple blazer that doesn’t come with a picture of Prince on its accompanying costume box? It’s certainly not easy, and that’s one of the reasons I really love this photo for a bit of alternative summer inspiration. Combined with the grey band-collar popover, it’s a really nice, washed-out color combination that’s eye-catching in a good way – and a far cry from the garish neon colors that are no doubt on display on the wall just out of sight. It’s interesting – to me – how much of Pitti has inflitrated Styleforum and is now seen as normal, and I don’t think it’s a bad thing. In the USA, men’s tailoring gets more relaxed every year, and it’s nice to see an outfit that makes you excited about tailored wear, rather than bored. This is relaxed, it’s worn well, and even the lilac straw hat doesn’t look out of place – because come on, it’s Pitti.

I’ve said it before a million times, but there are countless well-dressed men at Pitti, and that includes those who dress well outside the confines of the very real Styleforum Groupthink. It’s a pity that the only ones who get the press continue to be the peacocks, especially as the shift in the last few seasons has been towards streetwear peacocks – a different subspecies, I suppose, but an equally boring one.

Perhaps what I like best about the photo, though, is that it shows one of style’s real truths: it’s more about how you wear the clothes than what you’re wearing, and less about centimeter-perfect fit from top to bottom. When you meet stylish people at Pitti, they come across as stylish not across the main plaza of the Fortezza, but in conversation. This man’s at home in his clothing, and you should be too.

Pitti Uomo Outfit Inspiration from Andreas Klow

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This week, I thought it would be fun to take some Pitti Uomo outfit inspiration from Andreas Klow, who has been our photographer in Florence for Pitti Uomo 92. In particular, I quite like this picture – not one he took, but one he’s in, so that we can see how the photographer himself dresses. Of course, he’s in good company: he’s standing next to Simon Crompton of Permanent Style and Greg Lellouche of SF affiliate No Man Walks Alone, both of whom are some of the better-dressed men at Pitti each season, but he’s holding his own very well.

I also like that this picture shows one of the big draws of Pitti: the cordial atmosphere outside the Fortezza, and how generally good-natured people are despite the heat. After all, Pitti is as much a chance to see old friends (and shake on some business deals) as it is a tradeshow – and a chance to enjoy a lot of free cocktails.

In this photo, I particularly like how Andreas has paired dark colors in a way that still manages to look summery and comfortable. A green jacket is a great and oft-overlooked option, and Andreas (well, all three of these handsome gents) does a great job showing how relaxed and comfortable and generally un-stuffy tailoring can look. It’s neither restrictive nor is it overwrought in Pitti Peacock fashion – all in all, a great summer look.

Oh, and it looks as though beards are still in fashion, so if you’re fortunate enough to be able to grow a nice one (sob), I suppose you can take comfort in your facial hair being on-trend (though why you’d want a beard for summer I don’t know).

Our garments this week are all relaxed, summery options – and all Italian, of course. When you’re considering your summer tailored outfits, consider some less traditional, more saturated colors, and enjoy the change of pace.

Outfit Inspiration from Mossrockss

outfit inspiration mossrockss dress like mossrockss styleforum

 

One of the aspects of @mossrockss’ outfit photos that I most appreciate is how comfortable he looks in everything he’s wearing. Of course, he could be fooling me by just being very good at standing in front of a camera, but I’ll choose instead to trust in the truth of the images. I’m not entirely sure how he’d describe his own style, but in my eyes it’s a mix of Ivy and some relaxed Italian basics, a combination favored by well-dressed men and instagram stars worldwide.

There are two things he does particularly well. The first, as he himself noted, is pairing blazers with jeans, an example of which you can see here. The second is getting a lot of use out of the pieces he owns. That means that most of the items in his wardrobe are versatile, and easy to mix and match. For example, polos and popovers have been showing up under jackets more and more regularly in Styleforum’s WAYWT threads these days, and for good reason. They look nice on their own, and they add a welcome panache when worn with a sport coat. Especially when they have buttoned cuffs, they can be worn much like any other shirt, or rolled up when your jacket comes off, whether you’re wearing jeans or trousers.

Denim doesn’t need any introduction in terms of its versatility, but lately I’ve been particularly drawn to this pair of Orslow ‘Ivy Fit’ jeans, which have a relaxed fit that’s still flattering, as well as an entirely acceptable factory wash. Of course, you don’t have to wear them with a brown blazer – navy and green will work just as well.

Finally, it’s @mossrockss’ opinion that canoe mocs go with everything, and while that’s probably not true for me, or necessarily for you, dear reader, I felt I had to include them here. The whole look is a little bit more American than Italian,but I think it’s important to note that Mr. Moss never looks, well, boring – rather, he looks put together in a way that ensures he’ll be well-dressed whether he’s sitting on the porch of a colonial-style house in Massachusetts or in the garden of a Tuscan villa.