Pitti Uomo Outfit Inspiration from Andreas Klow

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This week, I thought it would be fun to take some Pitti Uomo outfit inspiration from Andreas Klow, who has been our photographer in Florence for Pitti Uomo 92. In particular, I quite like this picture – not one he took, but one he’s in, so that we can see how the photographer himself dresses. Of course, he’s in good company: he’s standing next to Simon Crompton of Permanent Style and Greg Lellouche of SF affiliate No Man Walks Alone, both of whom are some of the better-dressed men at Pitti each season, but he’s holding his own very well.

I also like that this picture shows one of the big draws of Pitti: the cordial atmosphere outside the Fortezza, and how generally good-natured people are despite the heat. After all, Pitti is as much a chance to see old friends (and shake on some business deals) as it is a tradeshow – and a chance to enjoy a lot of free cocktails.

In this photo, I particularly like how Andreas has paired dark colors in a way that still manages to look summery and comfortable. A green jacket is a great and oft-overlooked option, and Andreas (well, all three of these handsome gents) does a great job showing how relaxed and comfortable and generally un-stuffy tailoring can look. It’s neither restrictive nor is it overwrought in Pitti Peacock fashion – all in all, a great summer look.

Oh, and it looks as though beards are still in fashion, so if you’re fortunate enough to be able to grow a nice one (sob), I suppose you can take comfort in your facial hair being on-trend (though why you’d want a beard for summer I don’t know).

Our garments this week are all relaxed, summery options – and all Italian, of course. When you’re considering your summer tailored outfits, consider some less traditional, more saturated colors, and enjoy the change of pace.

5 Best Jeans for Men with Big Thighs

One of the most common questions that is asked on the forum – alongside “Where can I buy Common Projects on sale?” – is “How do I clothe my athletic thighs with denim?”  It seems that, while malls across America are well-equipped to outfit the girthier amongst us and fashion brands like Saint Laurent Paris can clothe kale-eating hordes of models, there is a dearth of denim choices for the mesomorphs in our midst: those who begin and end each day with a strong dose of creatine, and whose Instagrams and Snapchats are riddled with words such as “swole” and “gainz.”  Styleforum, alway inclusive, is happy to present the 5 best jeans for men with big thighs: powerlifters, strongman competitors, or those who aspire to be Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson (or just want a pair of jeans with some room in the thigh).

  1. Jeanshop  “Rocker”, $260 at www.jeanshop.com

    I’ve visited the flagship Jean Shop store in lower Manhattan, and like many stores who can trace their genesis to the mid-noughties, it looks like ye olde general store, with a lot of wood and wrought iron. The brand is famous for its thick leather jackets (which I once coveted as a broke postdoctoral scholar), and of course for its jeans, which are topstitched with a distinctive orange thread.  The owner of Jean Shop, Eric Goldstein, is a big guy (in one conversation with him he told me that he was “not a small guy,” and the cut of his earliest models reflect his understanding that big guys like to wear nice jeans too.  The Rocker cut is a straight legged model with ample room through the seat, thighs, and legs. Best Jeans for Men with Big Thighs styleforum lifter's jeans weightlifter's jeans weightlifting jeans jeans for lifters

  2. RRL straight fit denim –  $275 at www.ralphlauren.com

    Possibly the most comfortable jeans that I own are a pair of 15 ounce straight fit selvedge jeans from RRL.  The denim is washed, and so there is very little break-in time required, which means that even though they have the look of dark denim, they don’t have the stiffness that often accompanies “raw,” a.k.a unwashed, jeans.  A lot of guys talk about the thighs on their jeans being restrictive, but if you are doing squats, you are probably going to want some extra room in the seat – which these offer. Ralph Lauren is a billion dollar company, and with that much money, you can afford to hire good pattern makers.  This pair of jeans shows that. Best Jeans for Men with Big Thighs styleforum lifter's jeans weightlifter's jeans weightlifting jeans jeans for lifters

  3. Naked and Famous Easy Guys, in black for $170 at East Dane

    One of the most popular styles of jeans right now is a tapered black jean, and this is a relaxed fit pair that tapers down to a neat hem. Naked and Famous, hailing out of Montreal, is the brainchild of Brandon Svarc and is known for putting out crazy denim blends.  It’s been a while since I’ve run into him, but he always has a demonstration set up at trade shows – a pair of jean that stand up by themselves, or a pair of jeans in tricolor (all blended into the yarn), or whatever else comes to his mind that season.  Behind all of the theater, though, is a family of jean styles designed so that everyone can wear a pair.  The Easy Guy is the high end denim answer to those Wrangler jeans commercials, in which guys are playing football in jeans. Why you would want to do that is beyond me – it’s easy enough to tuck away a pair of technical fiber pants or training pants.  That said, if you are drawn into that madness, the Easy Guy will carry you through. Best Jeans for Men with Big Thighs styleforum lifter's jeans weightlifter's jeans weightlifting jeans jeans for lifters

  4. Japan Blue High tapered $127 at www.denimio.com

    The “carrot” shape is very in fashion right now, but it can be hard for bigger guys to fit into typical carrot jeans.  However, Japan Bue developed  their high tapered cut specifically for lifters – apparently being swole has caught on in Japan as well. The jeans feature a higher rise, generous seat and thighs, and a very deep taper. They come in a variety of denim types and weights, from the standard 14.5 ounce denim (linked) show below to a beefy 18 ounce “monster” denim.  Best Jeans for Men with Big Thighs styleforum lifter's jeans weightlifter's jeans weightlifting jeans jeans for lifters

  5. Levi’s 541, 50$-70$ at Levis.com

    These jeans really don’t require that much explanation.  They are Levi’s standard “athletic cut” and meant for men who need, or just want, jeans that hit at the waist, have a bit more room in the seat and thighs, and have a whisper of a taper.  These are jeans with no time for nonsense.  Best Jeans for Men with Big Thighs styleforum lifter's jeans weightlifter's jeans weightlifting jeans jeans for lifters

Making Smart Menswear Purchases

In my last post, I talked about developing a capsule wardrobe. The concept behind a capsule wardrobe is that you have a small collection of stylish basics that all — or mostly all — work together. However, some of us aren’t driven by a need for simplicity. We don’t really need or want to wear a uniform, nor do we need the comfort that comes knowing that any combination of what’s in our closet will look good. Some of us just like clothes and want to look cool when we are seen by other people. This week, I’ll discuss building a versatile wardrobe by making smart menswear purchases – and more specifically, how to know whether to make those purchases.  

Popping tags is fun, and of course the fashion industry grinds on, which makes us want something a little fresh and new every once in a while. Usually, there’s a catch: most of us don’t understand the intricacies of clothing’s historical context, nor do we have the time to read it all for ourselves — nor do we have, most of us, the closet space to house all the things we would buy if time and money were no object. 

And so we make purchases based on what we like – often either what’s new or what’s on sale. “Ooh, an extra 40% off those sweet Wallace & Barnes selvedge chinos!” UPS delivers them a few days later, and you find that they don’t quite look as good with your only pair of nice shoes – museum calf double monk straps – as you thought they would.

The best way to avoid this is to use a framework for your decision-making, one that will ideally keep you from buying garments you don’t need or won’t wear. I’m going to use the metaphor of a picture frame to describe how I make these decisions: there are four sides to a frame, and each side represents a question you can ask yourself as you look through the frame at the item you’re sweating over with credit card in hand.


Question 1: how does the garment fit, formality-wise, within the context of what I wear?

I love me some military field jackets, but generally speaking, my favorite clothing is tailored. Those two don’t fit together very well, except under specific circumstances (i.e. your tailoring is very casual, or your M65 is more of a refined homage to the field jacket instead of a literal reproduction garment). Nine times out of 10, when I go to get dressed on an evening out, I’m reaching for tailoring, not “workwear” or “streetwear.” That’s okay. Other guys rock the M65 all the time, and I admire their style – but that’s just not me.

Similarly, if you only wear tees and broken-in selvedge denim, the midnight navy shawl lapel tuxedo jacket you have your eye on probably isn’t going to give you a lot of use.

For help in understanding how to answer this question from the perspective of someone who regularly wears a jacket and tie, browse the Internet archive version of Vox’s Coherent Combinations for Beginners thread. It was eye opening for me, and it may be for you too. It can help you place your different garments where they belong contextually.

Making smart menswear purchases styleforum

This M65 looked awesome, but I never wore it because none of the rest of my wardrobe at the time looked good with it. So I sold it at a loss.

Question 2: is my wardrobe seasonally balanced?

In building my wardrobe, I have tried to make sure I have good clothes to wear when it’s warm or when it’s cold. It’s hard to keep parity between the seasons because, in the world of tailoring, cold weather gear is immensely more interesting (tweeds, flannel, ancient madder, suede – you know the drill) than summer clothing. I’ve had to consciously ask myself whether what I’m looking to buy fills a more immediate need in one season or the other. You don’t want to be stylish only half the year, even if there’s never been a better deal on a cashmere crewneck than during a summer sale. Try your best to build a complete wardrobe, not one that’s full of nothing but beautiful winter coats.

Question 3: if I buy this now, will I regret it if something else on my wish list is available in a month and I can’t afford it because of this purchase?

One of the major driving forces of my life is opportunity cost. I’ve found time and again that when I get emotionally invested and buy something that isn’t a “need” so much as it is a “want,” shortly thereafter I regret the purchase because something I really do need comes available. 

Take stock of the holes in your wardrobe, and know what you need. That way, when something that makes your heart beat fast comes along, you’ll be able to honestly assess whether it’s something you need and would actually get wear out of, or if it’s just the thrill of popping tags you’re after.

Making smart menswear purchases styleforum

I spent an inordinate sum of money in alterations to try to make this vintage tweed eBay find fit. And those expenses meant a few weeks later when I stumbled on my literal dream Eidos jacket at deep discount, I had to pass for lack of funds. It was soul-crushing. Stupid tweed jacket.

Question 4: Do I already own a similar garment?

This is the one side of the frame that stands out from the rest, because it’s how you help yourself break out of your rut: how many navy polos do you have? Do you really need another one? If you got this one, would you really wear it? On the flip side, would you neglect another perfectly good navy polo that you already own?

Now, some people wear a white shirt to work every day and need multiples of things like that (and please, for all our sakes, I hope you have multiple pairs of socks and underwear). That said, when we’re talking clothes we like and are buying for pleasure, it’s important to make sure you aren’t stuck in your ways. It’s fun to grow. Our tastes and preferences in menswear, like everything else in this life, need growth to sustain our interest. Staying rooted in your style preferences doesn’t mean wearing only the basics day in and day out. Try out those combinations you see the cool blogger-types share. Sometimes you’ll look ridiculous and other times you won’t – you have to try to know for sure.

Use this frame of decision making to help you assess your purchases. If you’re anything like me, it won’t ensure you hit home runs on every purchase, but if you can keep your wits about you in the rush of sale season, you’ll be happier – and generally better dressed – in the long run.

Outfit Inspiration from Mossrockss

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One of the aspects of @mossrockss’ outfit photos that I most appreciate is how comfortable he looks in everything he’s wearing. Of course, he could be fooling me by just being very good at standing in front of a camera, but I’ll choose instead to trust in the truth of the images. I’m not entirely sure how he’d describe his own style, but in my eyes it’s a mix of Ivy and some relaxed Italian basics, a combination favored by well-dressed men and instagram stars worldwide.

There are two things he does particularly well. The first, as he himself noted, is pairing blazers with jeans, an example of which you can see here. The second is getting a lot of use out of the pieces he owns. That means that most of the items in his wardrobe are versatile, and easy to mix and match. For example, polos and popovers have been showing up under jackets more and more regularly in Styleforum’s WAYWT threads these days, and for good reason. They look nice on their own, and they add a welcome panache when worn with a sport coat. Especially when they have buttoned cuffs, they can be worn much like any other shirt, or rolled up when your jacket comes off, whether you’re wearing jeans or trousers.

Denim doesn’t need any introduction in terms of its versatility, but lately I’ve been particularly drawn to this pair of Orslow ‘Ivy Fit’ jeans, which have a relaxed fit that’s still flattering, as well as an entirely acceptable factory wash. Of course, you don’t have to wear them with a brown blazer – navy and green will work just as well.

Finally, it’s @mossrockss’ opinion that canoe mocs go with everything, and while that’s probably not true for me, or necessarily for you, dear reader, I felt I had to include them here. The whole look is a little bit more American than Italian,but I think it’s important to note that Mr. Moss never looks, well, boring – rather, he looks put together in a way that ensures he’ll be well-dressed whether he’s sitting on the porch of a colonial-style house in Massachusetts or in the garden of a Tuscan villa.


What to Wear to a Beach Wedding

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The chances of you being asked to wear a suit to a beach wedding are, I admit, slim. However, beach weddings do happen, and beyond that, you may find yourself in a setting – a vacation, a dinner at a seaside restaurant – that demands, or at least encourages, a suit on the beach. Of course, this advice will probably work for most informal, warm-weather weddings. Remember, though – always follow the dress code on the wedding invitation to the best of your abilities out of respect for the occasion.

Let’s say you do get invited to a beach wedding. First, the smart play is to not wear leather-soled shoes.  The problem is that leather shoes are not only hot, but that the salt in the sand (and the sand itself) is not exactly friendly to the longevity of your footwear. However, unless the wedding is actually in the surf zone, you’ll probably want shoes, because sweet mercy does the sand get hot. Unless you want to go barefoot and risk reenacting the end of Terminator 2, or you plan to wear flip flops or Tevas (or my favorite foam Birkenstocks), your best bet is probably a pair of espadrilles. They’re a bit more sand-and-salt capable, and they’re also more summer-friendly in general. The pair above is a rather stunning set of handmade Basque espadrilles from De Bonne Facture, which in this case acquire their gorgeous blue from Dyer’s Woad.

Similarly, I would advise against wearing your finest suit to a beach wedding. Not only is there a good chance that you’ll want to roll your trousers up and stand in the waves (which will inevitably splash you much further up the leg/body), but the sea breeze is equally full of salt and sand, which, you know, abrades things. Of course, I’m always a proponent of wearing the clothing you have, but a beach wedding is an opportunity to branch out into something new, by which I mean it’s a good excuse to buy a linen suit. Whether or not SuitSupply is to your taste, they do offer very good value, and this patch pocket number is perfect for post-nuptial daquiris. The relatively low buy-in means you don’t have to worry about spilling slushy umbrella drinks on it, and you can romp in the sand with impunity.

Finally, keep things light in color. Not only will you probably appreciate the relief from the heat, but light colors just look nice when they’re sun-washed. I can’t imagine wearing anything but a linen or cotton-linen shirt on the beach, and while a white linen square is appropriate for any wedding, this beautiful abstract floral print from Vanda Fine Clothing deserves to be seen.

And that’s it. Or rather, almost. Because you’re definitely going to want two more things: the first is proper eyewear, which means (ideally polarized) sunglasses, because if someone asks you to not wear sunglasses at their beach wedding they’re probably not your friend, and staring a the glare off the waves for an hour is liable to blind you. Second, don’t forget your sunscreen.

Oh, and if the happy couple suggests, as I once witnessed from a distance, that they make their way down the sand-aisle to the dulcet tones of Lil Jon’s Turn Down For What, consider steering them in a different direction.

Invisible Acts Workwear Jacket Review

Although this review is unfortunately a bit late for our Fashion Revolution feature, I was still very happy to have the chance to discuss the venture that is the Invisible Acts workwear jacket, which is a one-off (for now) project from Nina Aganovich and Brooke Taylor, the duo responsible for the brand Aganovich. As opposed to a runway garment, Invisible Acts is the name for a Kickstarter-led production run of a high-quality, “Ethical” chore jacket (as Invisible Acts terms it), which “[Embraces] the slow fashion/co-op movement to tackle issues of quality, ethics and sustainability” in the fashion world. the resulting chore jacket is made entirely of organic, non-GM cotton woven in Italy on narrow shuttle loom machines (which should be familiar to fans of selvage denim), which is then constructed at a co-op factory in France.

It’s no secret that the world of fashion – and of fast fashion in particular – is the scene of some pretty damning abuses of both the environment and of human rights. That’s why, in addition to considering what you buy and why you’re buying it, I think it’s important to draw some attention to projects that are making an attempt to better the system. Of course, I think that it’s easy to be (understandably) dismissive of projects such as these, which have popped up occasionally in the world of fashion and menswear as attention- and marketing-grabs void of any real intent or meaning. Many companies have marketed new ‘lines’ of organic or fair-trade goods, which leaves more skeptical consumers wondering what’s happening with the rest of the main product. It’s a good question, and one worth asking. However, in this case Aganovich – a small design studio attempting, as we speak, to make the push into the couture schedule – are both nimble and hands-on enough that I thought the idea was worth another look.

It’s not surprising that initiatives such as these tend to come from smaller, more mobile companies – Aganovich, in this case, is intimately familiar with the labor-hours required for garment production in the way that a massive fast fashion chain simply cannot be. The company, and by extension the customer, is simply too far removed from the product. It’s equally unsurprising that there’s joy to be had from participating in what is, essentially, a GMTO project (a process with which I’m sure many Styleforum members will be familiar). I’ve never minded the idea, because it forces you to slow down and consider whether the product is ordering is actually one you want (need, in the world of clothing, being a relative term) and whether you’re willing to wait for it – overconsumption being, of course, one of the issues of which we as consumers both responsible and otherwise are now more aware.

You can read more about what and who, exactly, is behind the Invisible Acts project on their website, but the gist of it is that sustainable fabric and sustainable production result in a garment that’s both desirable and ethically responsible. Unfortunately, due to some hardware and scheduling issues, I wasn’t able to get my own photos ready in time for this article, and have used Invisible Acts’ proprietary photos instead. However, I find them accurate in their depiction of the product. 


The Jacket

The Invisible Acts jacket is based on a traditional French bleu de travail, although the pattern is mercifully more modern and the product is notably cleaner in finish than what you’d find from both vintage and (most) contemporary version of similar pieces. It’s available for both men and women, and instead of being a purely unisex piece there are some minor pattern adjustments between the two models. All of the seams are well-finished, the reinforced buttons well-attached, and the details well-thought-out: pockets are reinforced, an oft-overlooked interior pocket is present, there’s nothing about it that to me (who has owned and seen countless chore jackets) screams of wasted opportunity or wasted material. It’s also very much not a fashion product, which is particularly notable due to fashion’s current (and ongoing) obsession with workwear silhouettes and styles. It is, conversely, a decidedly functional – though well-designed – jacket. As Brooke Taylor, one of the duo behind the project says:

“As a design house, we could have added a few twirls, some conceptual weirdness – tried to make the jacket more ‘hip,’ to render a fashion interpretation of a workwear garment. We talked long and hard about this and decided ‘No, the starting point has to be simple solid and straightforward,’ it has to pass muster at being what it actually is.”

I’m always intrigued by declarations such as this, and in this case what the jacket actually is, is a very competent and surprisingly effective garment. The cotton drill used for the jacket is a 520g/m weight, which means it’s quite heavy but not oppressively so. For example, a good friend of mine who spends most of his free time in his basement machine shop in front of lathes and CNC machines was very impressed by the weight and mobility when he tried it on, and said that he’d be happy to wear it every day while working. If you’re attempting to make a manufacturer’s jacket, it’s a good thing if an actual manufacturer is happy to endorse it.

I have seen and owned many chore jackets, and most of them – including some of my favorites – don’t pass that test. In this case, the only deviation from a rigorous lack of extraneous detail is the visible selvage line that runs down the center seam of the jacket. It’s a detail I’m neither attracted to nor repulsed by, and somehow it feels unforced despite the ongoing preponderance of selvage-detailed-everything in the denim world.

The heft of the fabric also means that the garment will require some time to break in. I’ve only been wearing mine for a week or so, but it hasn’t shown much sign of softening yet – which is also just fine with me, as I’ve always enjoyed the process of wearing clothing into shape. Another plus is that the jacket is pre-washed, so you don’t have to worry about compensating for shrinkage. It’s also almost a mercy that the jacket isn’t made in indigo, since just about every other chore jacket these days is – the color on the grey model I received is very nice, and the coal black looks equally good. I should note that, according to Invisible Acts, the white model is a slightly lighter weight (250g/m) than the other two fabrics, if you’re after a jacket that drapes more easily out of the box.

I also happen to think that the jacket looks pretty damn good. The pattern is more flattering than it would be from a repro or purely workwear-focused company, and as already mentioned the details are well-considered. Fit-wise, a manufacturer’s bleu de travail was designed to sit close to the body, so that fabric did not catch in moving machinery. The Invisible Acts jacket is not tight, but rather slim and slightly boxy without much waist suppression. If you’re familiar with workwear, it will fit familiarly. 

It fits well, and it’s also a handsome piece, but it’s a two-and-a-half season garment that won’t see much use over the summer or in the depths of winter, unlike other options that might be made from linen blends or lined with sherpa fleece. That said, there’s plenty of room even in your proper size to layer, and you also have some leeway in terms of sizing – you can size up for a boxier fit, or down for a trimmer cut. In effect, it’s an obviously well-designed piece that’s not cutting corners for the sake of a marketing opportunity. Invisible Acts is also not a reproduction of a vintage blue de travail, so you should not expect it to be – it’s a modernized take on the same, which I think has its own charms.

Image via @Invisibleacts on Instagram

I could personally do without the iconography – the oversized brand logo on the interior of the jacket is the combination of a raised fist and a factory – which is also available on buttons that you can purchase separately. I’ve nothing against it per se, but it smacks a little bit of an undergraduate’s first reading of Marx. So does some of the campaign imagery, which I think is slightly misleading, and perhaps to the projects’ detriment. This is a very versatile garment, that I’ve been wearing both with wider twill trousers and with slim Japanese denim. Thanks to the color and inspiration (a chore jacket, rather than a Type 1 or 3 jacket), it doesn’t feel like wearing a denim tuxedo – it’s a garment that would be at home with either ripstop fatigues or faded jeans.

On the other hand, the more forgiving side of me – and, perhaps, the part that still remembers what it’s like to read Marx as an undergrad – thinks it’s just fine to let the imagination run a little bit, the way Aganovich obviously does when crafting its runway collections. After all, part of fashion’s charm is to take us to places we might not go, and part of the magic is that garments can become more than the sum of their parts.


Final Thoughts

The Invisible Acts jacket in Slate grey

At approximately 200$ (the Kickstarter price – the predicted future retail price is 518EUR), the Invisible Acts jacket falls within the same price range as some of the more affordable workwear and repro brands (think Sugar Cane or Rogue Territory), while the retail price would see it in line with a brand such as Mr. Freedom or Iron Heart), although it’s obviously dissimilar in looks. To me, that’s more than fair, and not out of line with what I’d expect. The jacket is available in Coal (black), Slate (grey), and Snow (white), and if you are interested in one, take note because the Kickstarter campaign ends this Sunday, June 4th, after which point the early backer price disappears.

As for the jacket itself, I’m a fan. It is, admittedly, not pushing any boundaries – although that was not the intention. Instead, it’s a quality version of a garment that most of us have or will have owned at least once. I’ll be interested to see if Invisible Acts goes anywhere after this Kickstarter, and Mr. Taylor says that, now that the project “Has established a base…it can go in all sorts of directions.” I don’t know if there’s room for a high fashion brand’s experiments in ethical workwear, but I suppose the market will let us know. At the very least I can say that there’s room in my closet for more projects such as this.

As is always the case with clothing, the question of whether or not you should buy the garment comes down to whether or not you yourself like it. For me, a person who likes chore jackets but has no real desire to wear denim jackets or look like a 20th century rail worker, it’s one of the relatively few options that’s both aesthetically appealing and, well, functional. And importantly, the fact that this is an ethically-made jacket doesn’t take away from either its form or its function – you’re not sacrificing quality or design by purchasing a garment made this way, and it shouldn’t be a surprise to hear that instead, you’re gaining from it.

None of us are perfect. That’s something that Mr. Taylor is quick to point out: “Anyone that says they can get it all perfect is lying. Because no matter how ethical your garment may be, you’re going to deliver it burning jet fuel. As a former deckhand I have a dream of one day delivering by sailboat, but…well, I’m sure our customers would be overjoyed.” Even so, Mr. Taylor is also happy to declare that the project itself has been an educational experience, and that he hopes that by “Asking the questions, keeping up the conversation, challenging [our]selves, that it influences others to do the same.” We’ve seen, the past few years alone, a massive shift in awareness towards ethical manufacturing, and while it’s always difficult to get consumers to think beyond the pocketbook – and to keep that momentum going – and projects such as these are perhaps more important than any of us think.

For both Aganovich the brand as well as readers of Styleforum, we’re somewhat – somewhat – insulated from these concerns. However, during Fashion Revolution week we suggested that you ask both yourself and your favorite brands: “Who made my clothes?” In this case, it’s nice to know that the answer won’t keep you up at night.


This is not sponsored content. To read Styleforum’s review policy, please click here.

What to Wear on Memorial Day

what to wear on memorial day

Let’s be honest with ourselves: almost nobody wears tailored clothing on Memorial Day, which is a day generally dedicated to backyard grills, beer at noon, and a swimming pool or a beach if you’ve got one. I could sit here and tell you that you needed to wear a seersucker blazer, and you’d be like, “Cool, but what happens when I drop my burger on myself?” Frankly, you’d have a point. If we’re being even more honest with ourselves, let’s admit that we’re all most likely to end up in our most comfortable shorts, an acceptably clean shirt, and maybe a snazzy apron if we’re cooking and also really trying hard.

A few weeks back, I made some suggestions for packing for the long weekend, and with the realities of life in mind I’m going to re-up on those recommendations by laying out some suggestions that you might actually wear. You’ll note that all of the items – 9 in total – can be mixed and match to your heart’s desire.

First, if you’re going to a pool/beach/waterpark/slip ‘n slide, opt for a pair of swim trunks that make you look like a grown up. That means that they’re not actually running shorts (I mean, I’m guilty of that), and that they have some pockets so that you’re not carrying around everything you own like an idiot and/or losing it in the pool/ocean.

Second, there’s a good chance that you’ll want a pair of pants or jeans with you, wherever you are. Your festivities will probably last until the sun goes down, at which point you’ll be happy to have something to wear to counter the late spring chill.

Third, if you want to wear leather-soled shoes, go for something lightweight and flexible. Like, say, a pair of loafers. That way you can wear them with your shorts or your pants, and if you are headed to a place where you might not want to wear sneakers, loafers offer a casual alternative to laced shoes.

None of that means you can’t look nice, of course. Swap the aforementioned ‘comfy shorts’ for something a little sharper, put on a henley as opposed to a gym tee, and wear white jeans just because it’s summer and you can and you’ve got all year to wear your other, blue-er ones. My only other tip? Don’t wear anything tight. After three beers and two burgers (and innumerable handfuls of potato chips), you’re not going to want anything – shirt or trousers – to be tight around your waist.

Enjoy the long weekend, and stay safe!


Outfit 1: At the Pool
Outfit 2: By the Grill
Outfit 3: Evening Drinks

The Best Aprons Money Can Buy

The apron is a criminally underrated and under-used garment. While protecting your shirt (or your naked torso, for the more daring among us) from spattering oil is a noble cause, cooking isn’t the only occasion that’s suited for apron-wearing. They’re handy in the garden, in the garage, in the shop, and for any other activity where you’re likely to get yourself at least a little bit filthy. I like to buy ‘souvenir’ aprons when I travel, but these – although fun – are generally made of flimsy cotton that doesn’t stand up well to the repeated washing that most aprons endure, which can leave you with fading, wrinkled aprons. No one wants that. Besides, although a simple apron is a perfectly effective garment, there are a few details – like pockets – that can make life lived in an apron so much more fulfilling. With a bit of longevity in mind, as well as a bit of style, here’s my list of the 5 best aprons money can buy.


1. For the Artisan: Vanda Fine Clothing Irish Linen Apron ($50.49)

Vanda’s beautiful Irish Linen apron sports beautifully large pockets front pockets, as well as a single smaller, meat-thermometer sized pocket. Perhaps the most elegant option on this list, the color is gorgeous, and the whole thing looks so damn nice that I might be a little afraid to get it dirty.

  • Elegance: 7/5 stars; a beautiful accessory suitable for any number of pursuits. Practically a piece of tailored clothing.
  • Bare Skin Factor: A full 8/8, perfect for shirtless cooking when the weather’s nice; equally at home with a shirt and tie.
  • Utility: 12/13; the pockets look ideal but I worry about grease spots.

2. For the Gardener: Carrier Company Cotton Drill Apron (55 GBP)

If you’re often in the garden, either digging in the dirt or hosing things off (or changing your car oil), this very, very sturdy cotton drill apron from Carrier Company is an excellent bet. It will, of course, function perfectly in the kitchen, although its slightly rougher nature begs you to wear it in the great outdoors. If you live somewhere wet, windy, or otherwise wild, this option – with its extra width and extra-long straps – is the natural choice.

  • Elegance: 3/5; a true working apron suitable for working pursuits involving dirt or very hot pans
  • Bare Skin Factor: 3.5 /4; may be lacking in pizzazz, although likely perfect when worn with wellies.
  • Utility: 17/9; excellent pockets and excellent length make this a fantastically functional option.

3. For lovers of tortilla: La Portegna leather and water-resistant canvas apron (70 GBP)

It is no surprise that the Spanish option looks as though it would be perfectly at home in a tiled courtyard or in front of a professional range – or even with a brush and tin of shoe polish. This one hits all the right notes: hard-wearing without being dowdy, elegant without being precious; it’s the paprika your thinly-sliced potatoes so desperately need. Add the supple leather that will age over time and you have yourself an heirloom apron.

  • Elegance: 17 stars; the beautiful colors offered as well as the single front pocket of beautiful, vegetable-tanned leather make this a gorgeous option.
  • Bare Skin Factor: 4/6; solely due to the lovely colors and materials you may want to accessorize your apron with a fine shirt or cashmere sweater.
  • Utility: 3/3; a single pocket is likely all you’ll ever need, and despite the lack of an adjustable neck strap the water-resistant canvas makes this a sure win.

4. For the Denimhead: American Native Goods Selvage Denim and Leather Apron ($185)

Are you still obsessed with six-inch selvage cuffs? Are the seats in your car stained blue from years of crocking denim? Do you lust after things like handmade knives and well-polished stones to put on your mantlepiece? Look no further, because this selvage denim and leather number is perfect for you. With one chest pocket and a leather kangaroo pocket, it has room for all of your German-made drafting tools, and after a few months of rinsing artisanal coffee grounds out of the denim you’ll have fades so nice you’ll want to wear it under your denim trucker and over your heavy jeans.

  • Elegance: 2/5; made for HARD WORK, which is SERIOUS BUSINESS.
  • Bare Skin Factor: 16/37; not recommended for the average shirtless person; if you are bearded and very muscular you’ll have better luck.
  • Utility: 15/10; guaranteed to protect the rest of the denim you’re wearing underneath it.

5. For the Cook: Haküi Bib Apron (10,000JPY, ~100USD)

For the serious chef, or the chef who thinks they’re serious, or for the person who really wants a nice apron, look no further than this beautiful and beautifully-designed masterpiece. Featuring brilliant design details that go beyond just “a pocket,” this apron is perhaps the pinnacle of apron technology. It’s handsome, is functional, and at home in a number of environments. Keep in mind that when you inevitably by one, you’ll have to do so by email. 

  • Elegance: 100%; you’ll cut a fine figure anywhere you go, and depending on the color you choose you’ll be right at home in any situation, whether it involves fancy knives or seed packets. Note that it lacks some of the fun ‘details’ of the other choices in favor of a minimal appearance and raw utility.
  • Bare Skin Factor: 50/43; I want to wear it right now.
  • Utility: Off the charts. With numerous pockets, slits so that you can access trouser pockets, and fully adjustable straps, this is the ur-apron you’ve been dreaming of. While not suitable for welding, I struggle to think of many other household chores that would not be made instantly more satisfying through the wearing of this apron.

How to Choose an Engagement Ring

Shopping for an engagement ring can be a difficult, stressful experience – especially if you decide to go in on a surprise and not on a trip to Tiffany & Co. with your significant other.

Here are a few useful tips to narrow down the options, followed by examples of both classic and unconventional types of engagement rings that might bring you some inspiration.


First of all, ask yourself the following questions:

Does your girlfriend wear statement jewelry on a regular basis?

If you girlfriend is the type who wears minimalistic jewelry – or no jewelry at all – it makes no sense to look for huge gems and elaborate designs, because she will probably feel uncomfortable wearing them: you can cross those off the list.

Is she more of a white gold or yellow gold type?

Notice if she chooses silver or white gold or yellow gold. The color of the metal is incredibly important, because this is a ring that she’ll be wearing for the rest of her life, and it has to match with her style and meet her tastes.

Are her fingers small, regular, or large?

The size of the ring depends a lot on the size of the hands: a tiny gem will look even smaller on a wider finger, while a huge rock will look vulgar on tiny fingers.

Does she like colorful gems?

Diamonds are not the only options when it comes to engagement rings. In fact, millennials seem to be less inclined to buy diamonds – possibly because they’re too concerned with saving to buy property or because the diamond industry doesn’t approach personalized consumption in the same way in which millennials have been exposed. Many women have a favorite gem, which could be their birthstone or a particular gem of which they like the color. Notice what your girlfriend likes wearing and ask questions about her favorite pieces of jewelry to get a clue of what she might like.


TYPES OF ENGAGEMENT RINGS:

 

DIAMOND RINGS

Suited for: a woman of classic taste

We owe folkloristic introduction of the diamond ring as a promise of eternal love to Maximillian of Asburg, who gave one to Mary of Bourgogne in 1447 as a promise for their wedding. However, diamonds didn’t really become the common choice to seal an engagement until the first decades of the past centuries, when a gigantic marketing plan based on the false scarcity of the gem convinced the American people that “diamonds are forever,” as well as “a girl’s best friend.” You can read more about the history of the diamond industry in this article.

You are probably familiar with the 4 C’s that matter when shopping for a diamond: Cut, Clarity, Color, and Carat are the characteristics that you should examine in order to determine whether a rock is worth the splurge. Of these four, the cut is probably the most important one, because it impacts light refraction: a good cut can make a lower carat diamond look brighter, or vice versa, it can turn a perfect gem into a poor jewel. When you visit your jeweler, make sure to ask them to illustrate these characteristics and point them out using an ideal-scope. This tool is able to show the light, highlighting the cut of the diamond. Nowadays, most diamonds are cut to emphasize carat weight rather than brilliance, and this impacts the overall quality of the gem you’re buying. A trusted jeweler will use an ideal-scope to let you inspect the cut pattern and make sure it’s a gem worthy of your money and for your love.

DO NOT fixate on the size of the diamond: if you are looking for a big rock but you can’t afford the carats required for it, you’ll end up buying a poorly cut diamond that will have little to no brilliance. Instead, look for the best cut you can afford, and you’ll be sure to deliver a gem that’s as blinding as your love for the lucky recipient.

Naturally, for the reasons I just illustrated, I strongly recommend shopping for a diamond ring locally and avoiding the Internet.


ANTIQUE RINGS

Suited for: educated and classy women with an appreciation for art.

These are my personal favorites, and something I always suggest to anyone who’s looking for something truly unique with which to promise eternal love. On the internet there is a wide variety of antique jewelry, and I find amazing that we can now own and promise love in the United States with a ring that belonged to some French dame two centuries ago.

As I pointed out earlier, diamonds didn’t become common gems in engagement rings until they started to appear at the fingers of Hollywood stars in the 20th century; before then, any gem was suitable – even semi-precious stones like garnets and peridots- and more attention was paid to the metalwork of the jewelry. For this reason, you can find quite old diamond rings dating all the way back to 1930s, but you’ll have a hard time finding antique solitaires.

If you’re willing, you can find outstanding pieces of excellent craftsmanship and rich in history and tradition; a cameo is a type of ring that has been in fashion since the Renaissance, and it makes a perfect gift for a refined woman who appreciates art and history; they consist of a shell on which lies a carved relief – usually the head of a woman. The technique dates back to Ancient Greece, but this type of ring became popular during the Renaissance, when the Medici women commissioned them to their favorite jewelers and sent them as gifts throughout Europe.

Art-deco rings can be incredibly beautiful and intricate: their style takes inspiration from nature, so it’s not uncommon to spot art-deco rings with intricate foliage engraved on the band, or with corals and other natural gems and materials mounted on them.

You can also find an abundance of Victorian rings online; these complemented the Victorians’ love for symbolism, and they often hide secret messages or mysterious meanings. Due to their popularity, you can find them in a variety of metals and gems, from the more precious (solid gold, rubies, etc) to more modest like rose gold, freshwater pearls, and semi-precious gems.


ACROSTIC RINGS

 

Suited for: free-spirited and artistic souls

I find this type of ring to be perfect for the artistic type of girl who doesn’t care for a shiny diamond to weigh down her hand. This type of ring was popular during the Victorian era, when feelings were hardly ever expressed in words and people sought symbols to speak their minds and hearts. Acrostic rings featured gems of which the initials formed words such as “love”(lapis lazuli-opal-vermarine-emerald) or “dearest” (diamond-emerald-amethyst-ruby-emerald-sapphire-topaz). If you’re lucky and your girl has a short name, you can even create your own, personalized acrostic ring. For instance: LISA (lapis lazuli-iolite-sapphire-amethyst).


GIMMAL RINGS

Suited for: a woman with classic taste who wants something other than a diamond

It’s impossible to talk about gimmal rings without mentioning the most famous of them: Jean Cocteau created the Cartier Trinity for Cartier, a ring that has been worn by celebrities from the present and the past, in the Twenties. However, the gimmal ring was not Cocteau’s invention. Gimmal rings – in which two or more bands are intertwined – were common engagements rings during the Roman era (the word “gimmal” comes from the latin gemellus, which means “twin”). Each partner wore one band, and the two were reunited on the day of the wedding, where occasionally a third band was added to symbolize a third person protecting the couple (a god? a friend? who knows…)

The sinuous shape of the ring makes for a classy engagement ring with a beautiful symbolism for the union of souls.


CLADDAGH RINGS

Suited for: Irish descendants

This incredible ring, which is made of two hands holding a crowned heart, features three symbols: the hands symbolize friendship, the crown signifies loyalty, and the heart means love. For this reason, friends and brothers also use this highly symbolic ring to exchange vows of loyalty. The meaning is different according to how someone wears it: fiancés must wear it on the left hand, with the heart pointing to the wrist – otherwise it means friendship. Wife and Husband have to wear it on the right hand, with the heart pointed to the wrist – otherwise it means widowhood.


COCKTAIL RINGS

Suited for: a woman with a strong personality

Cocktail rings -characterized by huge and colorful gems- were popular during the Prohibition. Rich ladies would often gesticulate while drinking alcoholic beverages at a party to make their transgression more apparent and draw the attention to their glasses. Kate Middleton’s engagement ring – previously worn by Lady Diana Spencer – is a sort of mini-cocktail ring.

It’s the perfect ring for a powerful, strong, and confident woman


Whatever your choice will be, remember that buying an engagement ring is an act of love towards the woman of your life – and that she and only she should be the center of your thoughts when shopping for the perfect ring. At the end of the day, it doesn’t matter what magazines and websites tell you to buy – it should all come down to the tastes of the person you love.

Perhaps this article has given you an idea of less mainstream options you have to choose a symbol of your love and devotion. Even if not all of them can be classified as a “conventional” choice, you don’t necessarily have to buy into the 21st century conventions if these don’t meet your tastes and/or means.

Most of you will end up choosing a solitaire, because that’s the most obvious choice and many women “expect” it. However, this doesn’t mean that it cannot be a personal and intimate choice; remember that she will be wearing the ring for the rest of her life; she will be growing old wearing it.

Make it personal, and make it authentic. Make it a symbol of the experiences you shared, and a promise of many more that you’ll be living together.

What to Wear to the Botanic Gardens

what to wear to the botanic gardens
I’m lucky enough to live only a few blocks from Denver’s (quite nice) Botanic Gardens, where my girlfriend and I are members. We probably go at least once a week, when it stays open later and we can visit in the early evening. If you haven’t been to your local botanic garden in a while, try to make the trip. It’s always nice to be surrounded by greenery, and taking the time to enjoy a slow stroll past the flowers is a fantastic way to de-stress yourself and force a little bit of relaxation.

While it’s not the ballet (and Denver’s not exactly a hotbed of well-dressed people), some of the guests do make an effort to look nice, which can be difficult in the heat. Make sure you’re dressed for the weather with lightweight, breathable clothing – and don’t bother wearing a tie. I’ve mentioned in the past my taste for summer jackets, but even when not wearing a jacket I like to have some sort of neck covering that keeps the sun off – it’s fierce, here. I also like to wear looser clothing in summer, which helps a bit with air circulation.

Finally, a straw hat is, I think, a must have for summer. It keeps the sun out of your eyes and off your shoulders, which can make the difference between enjoying a summer day and getting a headache by noon. Add to that your favorite pair of sunglasses, and spend your time enjoying a glass of strawberry lemonade while you look at pretty flowers.