Our Picks for Versatile Summer Loafers

It seems as though everyone who’s interested in menswear is currently obsessed with loafers. That makes sense, for a few reasons. First, it’s no secret that for most menswear enthusiasts, their hobby is far from a necessity – we don’t live in a world that demands formal dress, and loafers come in enough shapes and sizes that, despite being a more casual option than a laced shoe it’s fairly easy to find something that suits your needs. Second, and more simply, they’re a good summer shoe. Third, and maybe this is just me, there’s something to be said for never having to worry about your laces.

Whatever the reason, spring is a great time to pick up a pair of loafers. You’ll be able to wear them straight through summer the autumn, and going sockless (don’t actually go sockless – wear loafer socks) with the breeze around your ankles feels great. You can wear them casually or with tailored clothing, with loose or slim silhouettes. In essence, you’ve got a lot of options. Loafers come in many shapes and silhouettes, from the soft and slipper-like to the robust and chunky, and most are ready for a loving place in your wardrobe. I could probably lay out a list of twenty pairs, but I’ll try to keep things simple and break them down into categories.  Enjoy, and remember – you can still join the Streetwear Loafer Challenge, which ends this weekend.


Lightweight

Minimally lined or unlined, these are soft and forgiving. They tend to look good with more casual outfits, though certainly there are exceptions – unlined tailoring, especially in light, summer colors, being one such.

1. Christian Kimber Positano

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Unfortunately, these are already almost entirely sold out, but you can still the navy version. They’re sleek and unlined, and easy to slip on and off – perfect for neighborhood use or your travel needs.

2. Res Ipsa Kilim

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Although these might not be the easiest to wear with tailored clothing, I can see them looking very nice both with odd trousers and a polo under a lightweight jacket, or with faded denim. They also come in plain suede, if you’re afraid of color.

3. La Portegna Travel Slippers

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

While these might seem too unstructured for daily wear, I have often seen José Urrutia, the brand’s founder, wearing them with white or neutral chinos at Pitti Uomo and they look great – relaxed and supple, with a great depth of color. Plus, they roll up so you can stuff them in your carry-on. Brilliant.


Belgian

These have been popular for a long time, and the late Glenn O’Brien was a well-known fan. Several companies make the style, at varying prices.

1. Belgian Shoes ‘Henri’

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

The classic version, favored by well-dressed men worldwide.

2. Baudoin & Lange ‘Sagan’ Tassel

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

A relative newcomer, and the ready-to-wear line offered by bespoke shoemaker Allan Baudoin. Again, available in many colors, with or without tassels.

3. Rubinacci ‘Marphy’ (available at Mr. Porter)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Rubinacci offers these in a wide variety of fabrics, some not offered by the two brands above, so if you’re after a more adventurous color you may want to take a gander despite the higher price tag.


Midweight

Don’t google that – I just made up generic, catch-all term for the ‘category’ in which most loafers will fall. Here, I’ll include Penny loafers, Venetians, and most things with straps and a stacked leather sole. These are the sort that, depending on the style, may be better suited for your tailored wares.

1. J. Fitzpatrick Laurelhurst

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

J. Fitzpatrick makes a variety of loafers, all of which are quite handsome, but I particularly like this ‘Laurelhurst’ model. The wholecut silhouette with a toe medallion and a stacked leather sole make it a slipper that can go anywhere.

2. Rancourt Venetian Loafer (available at Brooks Bros.)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Still a common sight on the East Coast, the Venetian Loafer is a bit stubbier and more casual than some of its ornamented counterparts, making it easy to wear on the weekends.

3. JM Weston 180 Loafer (available at Mr. Porter)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Ah, the iconically French shoe, still worn all over l’Hexagone. Wear them with anything, of any weight and any color, at any time of the year.


Good for Suits

Just what it says – loafers that play well with tailored clothing, and less so with jeans or other casual outfits.

1. Ralph Lauren “Shanley” Tassel Loafer

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

A very classic American tassel, at home with a wide range of tailored outfits.

2. St. Crispin’s 539 Loafer (available at Leffot NYC)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

As sleek and elegant as you could hope for, and fully endorsed by one of our contributors.

3. Alden Full Strap Slip-on (available at The Shoe Mart)

versatile summer loafers styleforum loafer buyer's guide

Alden is one of the most renowned brands on the forum, and this pair of loafers will be right at home with your business suits.

A Review of Lanieri: Su Misura Suiting

Note: for a limited time, Styleforum members can take 200$ off a new Lanieri suit by using code STYLEFORUM200 at checkout! This offer is only good from 5/19/2017 – 5/28/2017. Visit Lanieri to make your order.


Although I buy a lot of stuff online, with clothing I’m usually hesitant unless the place has a good return policy or I know how it will fit. I especially don’t want to deal with the difficulties of returning clothes internationally. So I usually just go with makers that I know – probably like most of you do as well. However, sometimes I have placed online orders through online Made-to-Measure manufacturers in pursuit of a specific style, fabric or pattern.

I had often seen Lanieri online, and had also spent some time browsing through their thread on Styleforum, in which Riccardo Schiavotto – one of the founders of Lanieri – showcases the expanding range of options that their company offers. Browsing their website and the thread, they make clear that they manufacture 100% Made-in-Italy garments. They use fabrics from prestigious fabric mills and merchants, including Reda and Vitale Barberis Canonico (both of which are investors in Lanieri), which provide choices for a wide range of tastes and budgets. They use a well-established Italian tailoring house to make their garments in northern Italy, and the cutting, stitching and finishing of the garment is done entirely with Italian labor. More or less, Lanieri is trying to remind their customers that – like food – Italians still take style and quality in manufacturing seriously.

Their attention to detail extends to customer service and marketing. On Styleforum, Riccardo listens to the concerns and feedback from the community, answering questions about the manufacturing or materials, while also working to incorporate more customization. For instance, Riccardo has pointed out that their pants feature horsehair canvas in the waistband, or that they offer a selection of horn or mother of pearl buttons. He has taken the time to listen to the community, and soon Lanieri will offer full-canvas suiting, sometime by the end of summer (currently their structured jackets feature a true half-canvas).

So when Fok, Styleforum’s owner and administrator, asked me if I’d like to write a review of Lanieri in exchange for a suit, I jumped on-board and said yes. Please note that I am under no obligation to review them in any specific way. My only compensation was a suit of my choice from a selection of their fabric offerings. You can read Styleforum’s Review Policy here.

—-

Designing a Garment

Lanieri has a number of options that allow you to create your own garment so that it meets your sense of style. Personally, I appreciated the online visualization of the garment, which updates to show the various options you’ve chosen as you design your garment. You receive a feel for the overall look of the garment you’re creating. Of course, you are not able to see or feel the real end product, with all its nuances, until it is in natural light in your hands–but for what it is worth, the visualization gives you a sense of whether you are designing an abomination or your dream suit.

Their buyers vary their selection of fabrics each season, and offer a range of staples in addition to more exciting and more nuanced options. The fabrics have descriptions that showcase a wide range of weights, Super numbers, and weaves. The more interesting fabrics currently include some linen mohair blends, tonal Prince of Wales checks, or wool-silk blends. If all else fails or you need a staple, there is always a range of essential wool suiting.

review of lanieri lanieri su misura lanieri review styleforumLanieri provides peak, notch and shawl collar options, both in more “modern” slimmer lapel widths and wider configurations. Their buttons include a range of polyester, horn, mother of pearl and/or pearlized choices.  I’m a sucker for horn buttons, and would rather get a suit that already has them on it, considering that many ready-to-wear makers do not use them. Of course, you get to choose the interior qualities, including lining style, color, contrast stitching, et cetera.

You can also include any notes you want them to see prior to making the garment. I had opted, after speaking with Riccardo, to go with spalla a camicia instead of their standard suit option, spalla con rollino. If you want spalla a camicia, just put it into the notes. Riccardo has stated that one of the reasons it is only available to those that ask is because most of their clientele don’t seem to like spalla a camicia on account of the extra fabric in the sleeve head. I ended up finding that they sew it with less fabric than what you would see in a spalla mappina.

Ultimately, I opted for a half-lined Solaro suit in a nine-ounce fabric by Drago (you can read about why you want a Solaro suit here) with dark horn buttons, a mélange melton collar and beige lining. The final cost for the garment as made was $920.

After designing the garment, you fill out your measurements, guided by a somewhat campy (but not in a bad way) video featuring instructions on how to measure yourself (or rather, how to have someone else do it for you). Included in the measurements process are qualitative visualizations in order to help them understand your shoulder shape, gut and posture.

Of course, my wife had difficulty measuring, and so we had to repeat several measurements. Lanieri actually reached out to me, stating that some measurements were strange, and to please confirm them. After confirming them (good thing I did…) they sent it off to begin cutting, and the suit’s fate was sealed.

Inspecting the Result

review of lanieri lanieri su misura lanieri review styleforum

Working cuffs, horn buttons.

After a little more than three weeks (my order coincided with a lot of holidays in Italy – Easter, Pasquetta, and Liberation Day, among others) my order was shipped via FedEx International Priority. Two days after shipping, it arrived at 10 AM in sunny California placed in a giant cardboard suit box; they arranged the suit folded on a wooden hanger inside a canvas garment bag. Included were spare buttons, and some information on how to care for your garment, reminding you of the importance of proper maintenance to ensure the quality and integrity of your garment. Personally, it always serves as a nice reminder to treat your clothes well.

Overall, the final product was nicer than I expected; the Solaro fabric by Drago has a wonderful hand, drape and overall color. Living in Southern California, I feared that it would be a bit too hot, but it has a surprisingly open weave. The cupro bemberg (another plus) half-lining helps keep it breathable. The buttons are solid, well shaped natural horn, and the garment has even and durable machine stitching throughout.

Because my jacket and pants are half lined, I opened them up to take a peek. Sure enough, they are using light horsehair canvas throughout the waistband (a split waistband, as the Italians like to use), and in upper half of the jacket. The shoulders have some light padding to assist in drape, and the fusing (running the bottom half of the front of the jacket) is much higher quality than what you would see in most RTW makers. I was impressed with the softness and the quality of the half canvassed garment, providing an extremely nice balance between soft and stiff construction.

review of lanieri lanieri su misura lanieri review styleforum

You can see the lapel roll and the “Spalla Camicia”.

With regards to fit, the jacket fits well out of the box. The shoulders hang well with a fairly good sleeve pitch. I think the sleeve length is spot on (and they have to be, since they include working cuffs). I have narrow shoulders, so oftentimes I end up rejecting off-the-rack tailoring that is either too tight in the chest or too big in the shoulders. The only thing that I would note for a future order is that I prefer my jackets to be cut longer, with most of my jackets averaging about two centimeters longer than what Lanieri chose to provide. Additionally, if they offer higher armholes, I’d prefer that too (the armhole is on par with many of RTW Italian makers) Having lived in Italy, I know the Italians do like jackets to be shorter. And I find this to be acceptable, especially with an informal fabric like Solaro. At least the jacket appears to be covering my ass.

The pants are another matter for me. While they fit in length, the waist was larger than I would prefer (especially with a split waistband since I prefer the waist snug), and the seat could be brought in slightly in order to help it drape better. Additionally, I have a forward leaning stance, so I feel they need to be be cut wider in order for the pants to drape better, since the fabric accumulates on my calves when wearing OTC socks. With shorter socks or no show socks, I don’t have that issue with these pants. I’ve since taken it to my alterations specialist to correct this.

I will note that the garment had a couple loose threads in the seams and that they did forget to include the two rear suspender buttons in the trousers. Both of these are difficult to correct, but it is a minor annoyance.

The good news is that Lanieri wants to ensure that you have a perfect fitting jacket, so they will take into consideration these alterations (you submit a form with the alterations to them in order to get a refund) for future orders, or they will remake your garments if they are deemed uncorrectable. Like any online MTM program, I wouldn’t anticipate getting perfection on the first try, but because Lanieri is invested in keeping you as a customer and making you happy, I think the opportunity here is to build a relationship between client and company.

Price, Quality and Final Thoughts

Lanieri isn’t bargain basement dirt-cheap, but for the price ($920 as ordered), you get quality fabrics, good construction, the ability to design your garment in your style, and Italian manufacturing. Within the range of fabrics that Lanieri offers, they have cheaper and more expensive options (all of which are good fabrics from prestigious Italian fabric mills); this allows you to cover your wardrobe requirements with cheaper work suits or more expensive suiting for special occasions. I think that within the market segment, they offer a product that is certainly capable of meeting your needs, and which also provides you with the opportunity to – eventually – order well-fitting garments in your own style without the hassle of alterations.

Lanieri has a wide range of sales, including ones timed to holidays. These sales provide you the opportunity to get what you may need without breaking the bank. Outside of the sales, Lanieri is worth the price, considering that staple suits from quality makers are hardly ever found in a decent sale. For a reasonable price you can get a good garment that will last you quite some time and suit your needs.

Soon, Lanieri will expand by opening an atelier in New York, providing customers the opportunity to be measured in person and see the quality of sample garments prior to purchase. In addition, with the launch of a new full-canvas option, Lanieri will be placed extremely well as an accessible option within the market for quality made-to-measure menswear.

Note: the Solaro fabric shown in the review – named Riviera on Lanieri’s website – will be back in stock on their website in the middle of June.

 


  • This is not sponsored content, however, Lanieri is an affiliate of Styleforum. To read Styleforum’s review policy, please click here.
  • If you’re interested in browsing Lanieri’s options, you can do so here.
  • To read Lanieri’s Affiliate Thread, please click here.

The 10 Best Watches Under $1,000

As the good denizens of Styleforum’s “Poor Man’s Watch Thread” know all too well, a great watch need not cost an arm and a leg. There’s a lot of unbelievable value out there for under $1,000, and it’s a price category that worn&wound has long championed and stood by. Below, we’ve put together a list of 10 top-notch, sub-$1,000 watches, many of which make regular appearances on the wrists of Styleforum members.


1. Seiko SNK80x

The gateway drug of watch collecting, the SNK80x series offers what one can easily (and correctly) argue is the best mechanical watch for under $100. It’s robust and handsome, and it’s available in a myriad of colors that make owning more than one a lot of fun. It may not be the last watch you buy, but it’s one you’ll wear for years on end.

For the full review, click here.


2. Orient Bambino

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
The Bambino from Orient is, among collectors of more affordable timepieces, a beloved watch. For those unaware, Orient is a longstanding Japanese brand currently owned by Seiko. Its focus is primarily affordable watches, and it’s a something Orient does exceptionally well. The Bambino currently comes in numerous iterations, which include different dial designs and case sizes. For anyone seeking a simple, dressier piece, look no further.

For the full review, click here.


3. Archimede Outdoor Protect

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
Featuring a solid German build, clean looks, and a totally palatable price tag, the Archimede Outdoor Protect is one heck of a watch. It’s not just a pretty little watch, either. The stainless steel case is surface hardened to 12,000 vickers, which makes it all the more resistant to scratches. If you lead a more active lifestyle, then this is a value-focused mechanical watch worthy of your consideration.

For the full review, click here.


4. Seiko SKX007

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
Aside from the than the Rolex Submariner, the SKX007 is arguably the most famous dive watch out today. Rooted in Seiko’s rich diving history, the SKX007 boasts a classic aesthetic and pairs it with a solid, ISO-rated case. Whether you’re a serious diver or simply a desk diver, this watch deserves a spot in your collection.

For the full review, click here.


5. Seiko SRP77x “Turtle”

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
Yup, another Seiko. The Seiko SRP series, also affectionately known as the “Turtle” due to its unique case, is already shaping up to be a modern icon. Based on the 6309—a dive watch from Seiko’s historical catalog—the SRP took the watch world by storm in early 2016 with its mix of good looks, heritage, and solid build quality. It’s a no-brainer for lovers of a good dive watch.

For the full review, click here.


6. MK II Hawkinge

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
MK II is an American boutique brand focused on producing tool and military-inspired watches with designs honoring some of the greatest mil-spec timekeepers ever devised. The Hawkinge is the brand’s take on the Mark 11, a watch first produced by JLC and IWC for the British MoD during the Second World War. While those watches fetch a pretty penny today, the Hawkinge allows modern consumers to enjoy this classic design at a fraction of the price. Each piece is made in Japan and QC’ed by MK II founder, Bill Yao, in his Pennsylvania workshop.

For the full review, click here.


7. Junghans Max Bill

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
Designed by the unmatched Max Bill, the eponymous line remains largely unchanged from the watches the brand first put out in the ‘60s. With the simple yet powerful design language of the Max Bill, Junghans – itself a storied firm known for producing high quality wares – has produced an ageless classic. Available in both mechanical (manual and automatic) and quartz, there’s something for everybody across the Max Bill line.

For the full review, click here.


8. Dan Henry 1939 Chronograph

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
This list wouldn’t be complete without a chronograph, and because good mechanical chronographs for under $1,000 are few and far between I’m going to include the beautiful 1939 Chronograph from Dan Henry. The brand was founded by – you guessed it – Dan Henry, a mega collector who wanted to bring some of his favorite rare, vintage watches to the masses. And so the 1939 Chronograph was born with the watch being powered by a quartz movement to keep the price down. Beautifully styled with a multitude of vintage cues and superbly finished, the 1939 Chronograph punches well above its price tag.

For the full review, click here.


9. Stowa Antea KS

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
Pulling on a German design that dates back to the 1920s, the Antea KS (Kleine Sekunde, or “small seconds”) is a true bauhaus icon. Unsurprisingly, the watch looks just as good now as it did then with its unique cylindrical case, hard angles, and silvered dial. And internally, the watch is no slouch either, the Antea KS being powered by the venerable Peseux 7001 movement.

For the full review, click here.


10. Sinn 556i

10 Best Watches Under 1000 styleforum worn & wound
Okay, so I’m cheating a little bit with this last one, but the Sinn 556i can often be found for well under $1,000 on the secondary market, and it’s a worn&wound favorite. Sinn is a well-respected German brand known for producing tough-as-nails watches at unmatched prices given everything one gets with a Sinn watch. The 556i series is the company’s entry-level offering, but Sinn cuts no corners in overall build quality. The 556i is solid, perfectly sized at 38.5mm, and with the right set of straps it can serve as your single, all-purpose watch.

For the full review, click here.


Ilya Ryvin is the managing editor at Worn & Wound, a leading source of information on value-driven watches. He is also a frequent reader and fan of the “Poor Man’s Watch Thread.”

The 5 Best Organic Cotton Underwear Brands for Men

In conjunction with Fashion Revolution week, we would like to share our picks for the best organic cotton underwear, and explain briefly why it is important to choose such underwear.

While many of Styleforum users pay close attention to the quality of the items they buy and even to the type of material employed – oftentimes preferring natural materials to synthetics – not all cotton is made the same, when examined in ethical and environmental contexts.

Today, only 15% of the global production of cotton is organically grown without the use of pesticides and chemicals.

People working in industrial cotton fields are exposed to carcinogenic agents that correlate with increased likelihood of developing brain tumors – most of which result in death. Additionally, there have been an increased number of suicides caused by financial ruin brought about by the debts the farmers have to multinational corporations on account of the the pesticides they provide. As farmers use pesticides, they continually need to increase the use of these chemicals in order to see the same effects as the first time they are used on account of increased tolerance.

This does not only happen in India and other developing countries, but in the United States as well. Some of the leaders in the organic cotton market within the United States were impacted personally by the use of industrial chemicals found in large-scale agricultural production.

LaRhea Pepper has worked in a cotton farm for all her life, and she dedicated her life to switching to 100% organic production after losing her husband to cancer: “My husband grew up on a chemically intensive farm in south Texas and his father died of Leukemia at the age of 57.

Terry was diagnosed with a brain tumor–a glioblastoma multiforme–when he was forty-eight and I had to say goodbye to him just 2 years later. We were partners in transforming our farm from a low-input ‘almost organic’ to certified organic in 1991–we worked hard to build the organic cotton market for us and others as well. Promoting organic, as THE way to farm and be responsible stewards of our land was an important priority in our lives. It is no longer important to me–it is imperative! Agriculture MUST change and LIFE must be the focus,” she told viewers in an interview for the movie The True Cost.


Organic cotton is not only a more ethical way to grow the most utilized textile fabric in the world–it is a higher quality product for the final customer: with organic cotton, people are less likely to develop allergies and prevent irritations that may occur from wearing cotton treated with chemicals, especially in areas where the fabric is in direct contact with the skin.

Now that you’re a slightly more familiar with some of the important reasons to support organic cotton producers and brands that source their cotton from these farms, let us explore a few options in case you’re considering upgrading your underwear drawer with organic cotton options. Here is a selection of the 5 best brands that manufacture organic cotton underwear for men:

PACT Underwear ($9)

pact underwear organic cotton men underwear briefs best organic cotton underwear

All PACT apparel is sweatshop free, and ethically produced. You can order online (they usually have specials and discounts on quantities) or you can buy them at Target.


I LOVE BAD ($24)

I love bad hemp underwear mens best organic cotton underwear

I Love Bad’s underwear is made with a blend of organic cotton, hemp, and lycra – all pesticide and chemical free, and organic. The elastic band-free design alleviates stomach congestion and other discomforts. Their products are made in Southern California using low-impact dyes.


BGREEN ($24)

 best organic cotton underwear

Bgreen offers ultra-soft, stretchy underwear made of organic cotton. All their items are organic, fair trade, and made in the USA.


NATURAL CLOTHING COMPANY ($24.99)

natural clothing company organic cotton underwear briefs men ethical fair trade best organic cotton underwear

This is a small business run by a husband and wife from the state of Washington. They make underwear employing organic cotton and they commit to a fair trade, ethical business model.


COTTONIQUE ($27)

cottonique organic cotton underwear best organic cotton underwear

Cottonique specializes in underwear for individuals that have particularly sensitive skin and/or allergies; they pay lots of attention to the materials to make sure that even people with latex and spandex allergies can wear their underwear. They also offer elastic-free options that include a drawstring, made of 100% organic cotton.


If you have already switched to organic cotton, feel free to share your experience and your opinion on the matter. We would love to hear from you and discover more brands that produce ethically made, sustainable clothing.

Packing for a 3 Day Weekend Over Memorial Day

what to pack for a 3 day weekend packing for a 3 day weekend styleforum packing for a 3 day vacation what to pack for a 3 day vacation

The absolute most important rule of packing for a 3 day weekend, and in fact packing for any trip, is: don’t overpack. If you’ll be gone for 3 days, you probably won’t be needing 15 shirts when you wear the same 3 shirts all the time anyway (yeah, we know your secrets). Whether it’s by car or plane, you’re headed off to have fun, not to drag around a full-size checked bag that barely squeezes in under the weight limit. That’s a recipe for a bad time and a lot of stress during both the packing and unpacking periods. The only exception to the “don’t overpack” rule is socks and underwear. I’d recommend bringing an extra one or two pairs of each, because you never know what can happen.

Keep things simple. Pack items you can wear more than once, and pack your favorite pieces – the ones that all go together. Beyond that, think about what you’ll be doing. Nice dinner with family? Barbecue with friends? Running your yearly 10k? If you’re going to be lying by a pool or a beach all weekend, you probably won’t need a suit. On the other hand, if you’re meeting your grandparents for dinner, maybe you do (you probably don’t).

Here’s the thing: a lot of sites are going to tell you that you need things like laundry bags and dopp kits and endless accessories to be prepared for a 3 day weekend. And, if you’re throwing a bag in the back of a car, you have the freedom to pack some extra stuff. If you’re taking a plane, however, it just takes up a lot of room, and all your fancy skin creams and sunscreens are going to have to go in an infernal ziplock bag anyway. Instead of packing a laundry bag, either grab a plastic grocery bag (which can be used to protect your bag from a wet swimsuit), or just use a worn t-shirt to keep your dirty laundry separate in your bag from your clean.

If there’s anything that can’t get wrinkled, fold it flat on the bottom of your bag, then roll things such as tees and undies and pack those on top. If you’re not wearing a jacket to travel, try to keep an extra layer near the top of your bag in case you get chilly. You probably won’t need more than one pair of shoes, but if you’re set on bringing an extra pair, wear the ones that take up more room on your travel day – an elementary tip, but still.

For warm weather vacations, try to bring things that feel good against bare skin in case you don’t want to wear a shirt – that way, you can get up in the morning and pull on a sweater, overshirt, or even jacket against the chill and enjoy the feeling of fine fabric without anything getting in the way. And finally, don’t forget things like sunglasses, sunscreen, and swim trunks.

Oh, and if you’re planning on lounging in the sun, bring some reading material. It’s always nice to take a break from your backlit computer screen.

 

Clothing:

1. Visvim Shawl Collar Cord Jacket at Norse Store

2. Inis Meáin Linen Sweater at Mr. Porter

3. Eidos Band Collar Shirt in Indigo at Unionmade

4. Lady White Co. Tee from County Ltd.

5. Orslow “Ivy Fit” Denim from Blue Button Shop

6. Orlebar Brown “Bulldog” Short

 

Accessories:

Spring Style: Printed Blazer with White Jeans

blazer with white jeans and blazer styleforum printed blazer

I’ve long been a fan of printed blazers, and Post-Imperial, started by Styleforum member @Tirailleur1, brings a beautiful and unique perspective to tailored clothing. The garments are adire-dyed in Nigeria, the founder’s home country, before they’re constructed in New York. It offers a nice counterpoint to the European take on the flaneur, and is cosmopolitan and bohemian in a way that few brands manage to be. If you don’t believe me, believe Yasuto Kamoshita, who is often photographed wearing the ties.

Since it’s getting warmer out, a linen shirt is in order, and a popover is perfect for wearing tieless. Drake’s keeps releasing hit after hit, and their spring lookbook is fantastic – this wide-striped shirt will look equally nice under the jacket or alone, with the sleeves rolled up. It also comes in a spread collar variation, so you’re welcome to choose whichever style better suits your life.

Now, let’s take a moment to discuss white pants. White pants can be, in the right cut and setting, incredibly elegant and well-styled. The problem that I see most often is the propensity to wear them far, far too tight, which is really not something you want to do when wearing white pants, no matter the material. Jeans with a wider thigh – such as these bog-standard 501’s – will be more comfortable in the heat, and look better as well. If you’re really wanting to embrace the artiste vibe, hem the jeans to your ankle and leave them frayed and raw, just as the jacket sleeves are.

To finish it off, add a pair of woven loafers and a printed square. I like these from Barbanera, which are a little sleeker than your usual woven shoe without being too casual. The square is from Kiriko Made, and offers a nice complement to the tonal linen belt.

Finally, you may remember milliner Ana Lamata from our “Best of Pitti” series, and her gorgeous, sculptural, handmade straw hats are perfect for spring and summer. Keep in mind that she is also offers a fully bespoke service, should you decide that you want to work with her directly. The amount of work that goes into each hand-made piece is astonishing, and the results are beautiful.


The Best Classifieds On Styleforum, Week of 4/10/2017

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best classifieds on Styleforum. This week, he was kind enough to include a double-set of incredible listings. Be sure to subscribe to the Best of B&S thread to stay up-to-date on all his finds.


Suits

@SFA
NWOT Kiton Napoli 100% Linen Indigo Blue Summer Layered Plaid Jacket 50


@A Guy from Shanghai
NWT Classic Cantarelli Solid Dark Gray Wool Suits 52 & 54 (EU). Free shipping within US


@A Guy from Shanghai
NWT Caruso Loro Piana Charcoal Gray LtWeight Flannel Wool Suit 56 7 R (EU). Free shipping within US


@johngreen

NWT Eidos Napoli 3 Piece Suits 48/38 R


@Peli
NEW Belvest for Burberry Blazer and Suit (42R/52R Beige Silk and 44R/54R Blue Wool)


@sartorialnapoli
Perfect Spring/Summer Suit! NWT Boglioli Solid Navy Wool Suit, Hampton Line, 3-roll-2, Handmade US40 38/EU50. Free Shipping within US.


Jackets/Blazers

@JOVAN TOWNSEND
AUTHENTIC $2100 BRIONI COLLECTION CASHMERE BLEND BLAZER SPORT SUIT COAT JACKET L


@mobobs
Sartoria Partenopea 40R Blazers – NWT








@jameshartmann
FS: NEW Ralph Lauren Purple Label ‘Savile Row’ 2 Button Hand Made Black Peak Lapel Blazer 38R


@Manofstyle85
New 46L Ben Silver purple cotton velvet unlined peak lapel sport coat


@glyoung
Luigi Borrelli Cotton Jacket – Like New – Size 50


@aristoi bcn
Gaiola Napoli cream linen houndstooth jacket


@furo
Ultra Rare NWT RLBL Ralph Lauren Black Label Navy Linen Jacket 38S!


Outerwear

@rosenfeldj2
NWT! TOM FORD Trench Coat Tan Beige Double Breasted Outerwear Size 48 Silk Blend


@rosenfeldj2
NWT! TOM FORD Trench Coat Gray Double Breasted Outerwear Size 48 Silk Blend


@Burzan
NWT Eidos “Pincio” Bomber Jacket 38/48 (runs large and fits 40/50)


Shirts

@stifler
NWT Finamore Blue Checked Cotton Dress Shirt Sizes 15, 15.5, and 16


@cinnapox
BNWT Price Drop Borrelli, Charvet, Tom Ford, Cucinelli Shirts sz XS, S, 38/15




Trousers

@rossicar
Howard Yount – Size 34 – Flannel


@sjmin209
NWT PANTS FROM Hertling, Southwick, Haberdash, Polo, J Crew sz 31 32 33 34



@Manofstyle85
$895 sz 32 Trillion by Belvest cashmere/cotton brown soft corduroy flat front pants


@Manofstyle85
$1185 sz 32 Trillion by Belvest silk light blue men flat fronts pants


Shoes

@Satsuke
Television Shoe Wardrobe Sale!



@Faster
C&J “Warlow” in Whiskey Shell NIB


@Warrengardner
John Lobb Bournes 9.5 E UK on 8000 Last


@kontra
FS: Vass Cognac scotch grain Norweger Size EU41


@blenden
EDWARD GREEN CHESTNUT PICCADILLY LOAFER UK9/9.5E (USED/EXCELLENT CONDITION) ON THE 184 LAST


@pkincy
Edward Green Sandringham Spectator in 8.5/9E UK sizing


@Gentlemenclover
VASS MTO ADELAIDE LAST F – 8/ UK – ANTIQUE COGNAC CALF


@ADub
Gaziano & Girling St. James II 6.5D


@Watchman1
FINAL DROP: The Watchman’s TOTALLY INSANE Shoe Drop Thread: GG, EG, CJ



@edmorel
Buday shell cordovan shoes and one pair of russian hatch grain sizes US 8.5/9/9.5




@chipshot
Lindrick by Crockett & Jones Brown Shell Double Leather Sole 8.5E UK BNIB


Ties

@muchisgiven
Drake’s Ties


@johngreen
NWOT Cesare Attolini Napoli 7-Fold Tie


@Dragontail275
Conrad Wu Ties


Miscellaneous

@edmorel
Zegna fabrics for spring/summer (some winter too) including Yak, wool, linen, cashmere



 

Why a Solaro suit is the only suit you’ll need this summer

The time has come to legitimize the Solaro suit as a staple garment in any man’s wardrobe.

Oh please, don’t give me that look. We already established a long time ago that brown and earthy colors are no longer reserved for the countryside, and we integrated them as part of our daily – and even business – clothing. A Solaro suit is going to be your best investment this summer.

First, let’s go back to the origins of the fabric. Despite being quite popular among the Italians, we owe the invention of Solaro to the Brits and their assumption that the red color repelled radiation caused from direct sunlight.

The Solaro was born at the dawn of the 20th century, during the colonialism of the Tropics. The London School of Tropical Medicine dedicated studies to the wellbeing of the soldiers in colonial lands: climate conditions in tropical areas were incredibly harsh, and a need for new fabrics and garments to protect the colonizers arose as it did the belief that they were responsible for dreadful tropical diseases.

One of the School’s scientists, Louis Westenra Sambon, conducted some studies on the skin of the colonized populations, coming to the conclusion that the darker pigment was able to block off the UV rays coming from the sunlight. It was clear to him that Nature provided the natives with the necessary protection against the harm of the climate, and that the colonizers would have had to find a way to protect their fair skin just as well. Clothes were the obvious choice, as they act as an additional layer to protect the body from the external agents.

It was common knowledge at the time that light fabrics retained less heat than dark fabrics; however, white garments were not quite suitable for soldiers. Khaki green, on the other hand, was both light and suitable for a soldier’s uniform, and that’s why Dr. Sambon chose it as the base of the cloth of his invention: the Solaro. He added to it a red layer that supposedly repelled the UV rays.

“Dr. Sambon, assisted by Mr. John Ellis, has produced a fabric hat has a “perfect khaki effect” on the outside and a red colour screen on the inner surface, and he has stated that Mr. Bailey has examined it at the University College and that it has proved as impervious to the actinic rays as is the skin of natives of tropical countries. This cloth is called Solaro. We have not seen specimens of this cloth, but we note that it is obtainable at Messers Ellis and Johns, Tailors, 21, South Moulton Street, London, W.”¹

“Unlike clothing promoted for use in tropical climates today, Solaro was meant to prevent more than sunburn and carcinomas. It was designed to inhibit the “actinic” rays—what we would now call ultraviolet (UV) radiation—of the sun, which were thought to disrupt proper physiological functioning and produce nervous disorders. The design of the clothing was linked to the observation that skin color was darkest where sunlight was most intense.”²

Another debate concerned the type of fabric that would work best against the heat: cotton or wool? German zoologist Gustav Jaeger pointed out that many animals survive in tropical areas with a wool coat, and that wool breathes better than vegetable fabrics, which are not meant to be used in clothing: Nature has clothed the animals. Man clothes himself. Animal wool, which Nature has created to clothe the animal body, is the ‘survival of the fittest’ clothing material.”³

His assumption is at the base of Dr. Sambon’s choice of wool for the Solaro.

The patented Solaro fabric –“Original Solaro Made in England”- is produced by Smith Woollens (now part of Harrisons). It weighs 310 gr and is in a tan/olive-ish color with a herringbone pattern. It features an underside woven with brick red yarn;

solaro suit fabric history

Solaro fabric. Photo: No Man Walks Alone

this characteristic produces an iridescent sheen that is most evident when the light hits the fabric at a specific angle, but it is nonetheless quite subtle.

Today there are several mills – Loro Piana, Drago, Angelico, to name a few- that produce Solaro in a variety of weights and hues, yet remaining somewhat faithful to the mid-weight, khaki-and-red original version.

The most common fabrics employed to create Solaro are pure wool twill and yarn-dyed gabardine.

As I mentioned, the Italians are particularly fond of Solaro suits, as they embody perfectly the Italian sprezzatura with the relaxed, casual, and slightly impudent look provided by the semi-iridescent cloth. It’s not uncommon to spot distinguished, elderly Italians wearing Solaro suits, whether they are businessmen riding a bicycle in Milan, or classy Neapolitan gentlemen savoring espresso at a café while reading the Corriere della Sera.


Here are a few good reasons why a Solaro suit is the perfect integration to your summer closet:

It’s a conversation starter; we are not given that many chances to make fun of the Brits (if we don’t consider Brexit) so why lose the chance to make a joke of their belief that a red thread in their suits would keep them safe from tropical diseases? Jokes aside, the history of the fabric and its continental charm make a good topic of conversation for anyone who has an interest in menswear or history.

It’s unconventional but not crazy extravagant; the red sheen is barely there, just enough to remind the world that you are confident enough to pull off a suit that goes beyond the conventions. You own it.

It suits everyone. Just take look at the gallery, and you’ll see that a solaro suit looks good on every single person, flattering every complexion from the fairer to the deeper. Additionally, it seems to class-up everyone’s style, making the solaro suit the male equivalent of a pearl choker.

It makes a great option for business casual. I promise not to roll my eyes and scoff when you tell me that America is too conservative to allow such a suit to be part of a business environment. However, to the West Coast fellows that suffer from suit envy because their workplace is too casual to wear even the most innocent two-piece navy suit, I say: this is your chance! A Solaro suit is casual enough to be worn even in an office where the most formal piece of clothing is not-ripped denim, and you won’t be labeled as “the uptight dude in the navy suit”. Plus, you can lose the jacket any time and not look like you forgot a piece of your outfit at home.

If you’d like to read what other forumites have to say on the matter, there is a whole thread dedicated to wearing Solaro for business.

It’s incredibly easy to style. Click here to read our guide to wearing a Solaro suit – including some spezzato options!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Note: please note that the original Solaro cloth is only available through Harrisons and their agents, and it is a registered trademark. Any other maker that refers to this type of cloth with the name Solaro is in trademark infringement.

@AriannaReggio


1. The Indian Medical Gazette, Volume 42, p. 188

2. Bulletin of the History of Medicine: Bull Hist Med. 2009 Fall : 530-560

3. Jaeger Gustav. In: Dr. Jaeger’s Essays on Health-Culture. Tomalin Lewis RS., translator. London: Waterlow and Sons; 1887. p. 116.

Great Buys: 16 Classic Shoes on Styleforum’s Classifieds

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best of Styleforum’s classifieds. Out of that glittering company, we’ve picked our five favorites to share. Click the links below to see the listings!

This week, @razl’s picks were very shoe-heavy. We’ve laid out his picks for your convenience.


Alden Whiskey Shell Cordovan Longwings, 10D – 650$

Alden #8 Shell Cordovan Norwegian Oxford, 10.5 – 550$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

A pair of Alden shoes in the very special #8 cordovan is a must have for many Styleforum members.


Alden 8249 Black Cordovan Blucher, Size 7c/e (Aberdeen Last) – 595$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

Simply put: a beautiful shoe.


Anthony Cleverly “Churchill,” UK8.5 – 600$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

Beautiful patina and a great style make these both good-looking and easy to wear.


Carlos Santos Balmoral Boot, Multiple Sizes – 310$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

A great boot that can be worn dressed up with a suit, or more casually with jeans.


Carmina Semi-Brogue Oxfords, UK9/US10 – 600$

Carmina Polo Suede Longwing Blucher, 8UK – 300$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

The ideal suede shoe, perfect for the upcoming summer season.


Carmina Tan Semi-Brogue Oxfords, 8UK – 349$

Carmina Half-Brogue, UK6.5 – 250$

Carmina Austerity Brogue, 8.5UK/42.5EU – 315$

Crockett & Jones Chelsea, 10DUS – 329$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

If you’re looking for a chelsea boot that won’t get you confused for a Kanye follower, this is the shoe for you.


Crockett & Jones Swansea, 10UK/11US – 350$

 

Gaziano & Girling Thorpe in Arran Grain, 9.5E – 1,000$

Gaziano & Girling Mitchell in Midnight Blue Calf, US13.5E – 900$

Ralph Lauren by Gaziano & Girling “Percival” Monk Boot, 10D – 400$

 

Sutor Mantellassi: Many Shoes in Many Sizes, Starting at 100$

Tricker’s Eaton Boot in Teak Shell Cordovan, 10UK – 700$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

Tricker’s iconic country boot, made up in a gorgeous and long-lasting leather.


Vass Old English II, EU41 (F Last) – 580$

best shoes on styleforum's classifieds

A gorgeous shoe, well-deserving of the respect the Styleforum community gives to it.


 

Outfit Inspiration: The Patchwork Blazer

patchwork blazer styleforum

There are a few members on Styleforum who do the “Whimsical CM Casual” look pretty well. One is Gerry Nelson, who you’ve heard from on this very Journal, and whose style we’ve already covered. The other two are @Cotton Dockers and @ManofKent, two paragons of Styleforum virtue that excel at putting together relaxed, whimsical outfits. We can easily imagine either of them wearing something similar to what we’ve put together here.

This outfit, as you’ve probably gathered, is centered around a Barena patchwork blazer, a brand which has long enjoyed an enthusiastic, if muted, fanbase on the forum – it’s friendly to both casual outfits and streetwear getups alike, and is generally both comfortable to wear and individual enough to stand out. To emphasize it’s not-quite-classic features, we’ve combined it with a few other playful pieces.

The first is this pair of relaxed trousers from Marni. Loose through the thigh, they’re tapered and then cropped at the ankle for a breezy spring-and-summer weight and silhouette. A linen shirt from Lanieri is our one nod to convention, and depending on how you choose to order yours, can be worn tucked or untucked. At the bottom, we’ve gone with the endearing Paraboot “Michael” shoe, a classic of country-wear if there ever was one, to balance out the tapered trousers and add some bulk to the look. We want to nurture Barena’s innate pagan magic, and a pair of shoes perfect for tromping through the woods achieves just that.

To round things off, a pair of retro-inspired sunglasses from The Bespoke Dudes keeps your eyes safe from harmful UV rays (always important), and a charming bandana-slash-pocket square from Blue Blue Japan is always a nice touch.

However, the most important aspect of any outfit is how you wear it, and we suggest you channel the three members who’ve inspired this particular look: wear it while wandering the countryside, wear it will cruising in your vintage sports car, or wear it as a comfortable airport outfit – whatever you do, wear it with a little bit of spring in your step and embrace a bit of whimsy along with the warm weather.