The Coat Matrix: Choosing Versatile Outerwear

Looking at my backlog of posts, I’m starting to think I’m getting typecast as the “choosing versatile clothing X” guy. That’s okay, because generally speaking, versatility in menswear has been a key motivating factor for me. At a certain point versatility can breed boredom (a perspective shared by venerable menswear icon and Styleforum member Mark Cho), but it can be a necessity for many men, especially as they’re just beginning to build a wardrobe. Consider this in the coming months, when you start putting your fall and winter wardrobe together and building your purchase list.

Depending on where you live and what kind of daily routine you have, outerwear can either be a necessity for surviving the winter or just another delightful category you get to spend money on and take pleasure in. I’ve lived in both types of climates and lived both types of daily routines (as a student in northern Indiana I braved single-digit temperatures at a school that took pride in never closing due to weather conditions, and currently live in Tennessee where I work from home). Drawing on those experiences, I have developed a system of categorizing and choosing versatile outerwear that I thought might be helpful for others.

I call it the Coat Matrix [cue lightning and thunder].


A Two-Axis System

The name of my outerwear scheme comes from the fact that it is aligned along two axes that create a matrix of four quadrants. Brilliant! On the vertical axis is the temperature outside, and the horizontal axis of the grid is formality.

Choosing versatile outerwear styleforum coat matrix styleforum

40+jeans: Brandit M65 Giant; vintage café racer style leather jacket; Barbour Bedale/Ashby; Aspesi chore coat. 30-jeans: Schott NYC peacoat; Patagonia puffer jacket (with hood); Peter Millar suede safari jacket; Eidos Maremara hunting jacket. 40+tailoring: Sartoria Formosa jacket (No Man Walks Alone) 30-tailoring: Original Montgomery duffle coat; Uniqlo camel topcoat

You’ll notice that, contrary to nearly all my WAYWT posts, I have chosen to separate jeans and sportcoats. This is a somewhat arbitrary choice on my part, but a helpful one, I think.

The two axes create four quadrants: above 40° in jeans-level formality (for shorthand, we’ll call this 40+jeans); below 30° in jeans-level formality (30-jeans); above 40° in tailoring-level formality (40+tailoring); and below 30° in tailoring-level formality (30-tailoring).

In 40+jeans a lot of really great, versatile and wide-ranging designs come into play. This is where you’ll find shirt-jackets, military-inspired jackets such as M65’s and the like, bombers, safari jackets, Barbour jackets, motorcycle jackets and chore coats. Generally speaking, outerwear in this quadrant are shorter in length and made of materials like waxed cotton, linen blends, canvas and lightweight wool.

In 30-jeans you can find many of the same styles, just with beefed-up fabrics. By switching out waxed cotton for heavy tweed, a safari jacket that buttons all the way up should be able to keep you warm. You’ll also find more heavy-duty coats developed specifically to stop cold weather, like pea coats and technical gear originally made for outdoor adventuring (such as down puffer coats made by companies like Patagonia or North Face).

In 40+tailoring, you actually don’t really need outerwear. This is where, if you’re wearing a tailored jacket, you can get away simply by layering. Scarves and knit cardigans or pullovers under a tailored jacket are a time-tested way to warm up when there’s just a hint of chill in the air. Of course if the weather is wet, you want to get a lightweight rain jacket.

In 30-tailoring is where you find topcoats and overcoats meant to be worn over a tailored jacket. Shorter car coats and covert coats have been popular for a while, but a classic topcoat will hit at the knee (or below in decades past). Chesterfield coats dress things up (historically made with a velvet collar), and duffle coats dress them somewhat down with large toggles that you can easily undo with gloves on. If you want more warmth, double-breasted styles like the Polo coat or the more military-inspired Officer coat give you a tall collar you can turn up against the wind and extra protection from the cold seeping into your coat.

There are, of course, a multitude of styles in each of these quadrants, and of course other ways to categorize outerwear. But this has helped me to determine where my dollars are best spent when I’m hunting for a new coat—and I hope it does for you, too.

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Mixing Menswear Textures with Poszetka

mixing menswear textures

I don’t often feature cell phone pictures, but this week I found myself really enjoying @Poszetka’s mixed textures. Tweed, denim, and denim is a great look, especially for something a bit more casual. Like Peter, I’m not a fan of ties with denim, but in this case I’ll allow it both because hey, do what you like, and because the color and texture of the tie in question works with the rest of the outfit. Indigo and tweed is a combination that always works (two heavy, interesting textures), and a Harris Tweed sport coat is one step more dressed up than a wool hunting jacket while connoting some of the same country-ready style. Grey sport coats can prove surprisingly difficult to work into your wardrobe, and tweed – or other, heavier fabrics – makes the piece a bit more versatile. Tweed works with lots of trouser fabrics, from tightly-woven cotton twills to wool or – as seen here – even denim, and if you remove the tie and put on a pair of boots, this is an outfit that’s perfect for autumn anywhere.

Although we can’t see the shoes in question, I tend to avoid leather-soled shoes (that aren’t boots) with denim. However, since there’s a tie in the mix, I think something like this Vass Budapester on a commando sole from affiliate No Man Walks Alone might work well. Other easy options would be chukkas or heavier (think Tricker’s) brogued shoes or boots. One final note is that, if you’re going to opt for thicker cuffs on your denim, I’d definitely suggest removing the tie, as I find that cuffed denim and a tie tends to either look sloppy or too much like the hipster bartender outfit du jour.

 

The Best Styleforum Member Outfits, Aug. 21 – Sept. 13

Today, enjoy some of the best Styleforum member outfits posted in the last two weeks. Whether you’re interested in Classic MenswearStreetwear & Denim, or a combination of the two, we hope you’ll find some inspiration in the photos below – and when you’re done looking, be sure to share your own outfit with the community.

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Building a Versatile Shirt Wardrobe

Filling your closet with the essentials of a versatile shirt wardrobe can be a frustrating exercise in multitasking, and it can take years. Having a list of what you want for each category is critical so that when deals come up, you can stay focused on what you “need” instead of just jumping on every deal. Items that can be used in tons of different outfits make the return on investment higher, making the opportunity cost of buying it lower (see this post for more about how opportunity cost impacts my decision making in menswear).

However, going for maximum versatility can be boring. After all, while we all admire the starched-white-shirt-in-the-desk-drawer-of-Don-Draper lifestyle, that would be super boring. Pattern, texture, collar shape and seasonality are the four main areas where you can start to mix it up.

Solids and Patterns

Solid shirts are the most versatile shirts you can own. In the realm of classic menswear, where you want to be able to go with or without tie, there are only two colors: white and blue.

White is more formal, blue less so. Depending on what kind of work environment or lifestyle you lead will determine how many solid blue or solid white shirts you will need. For instance, I only have two white dress shirts – one with double cuffs, and one with barrel cuffs – because I wear them so infrequently. For most people, light blue is the king of versatility because you will almost never look wrong with a light blue shirt on, even with a dark suit and dark tie.

Next in versatility are vertical stripes. Small repeating patterns such as pencil stripes, university stripes, and Bengal stripes are the most versatile. Shirts that have a white ground with blue stripes are the best place to start (and are the easiest to find).

Texture

Some textures fit better in a more formal context than others. A good rule of thumb is that a smaller, denser weave is more formal than a looser, larger or coarser weave. For instance, a poplin or end-on-end will look better with a refined suit-and-tie look than will an Oxford cloth. As Derek of “Dieworkwear” says, poplins are boring. You sacrifice zero versatility but gain some measure of visual interest by going with something like an end-on-end for business shirts instead of poplin. Coarser weaves like Oxford and royal Oxford are more at home with odd jackets, and particularly so when you break out the tweeds. Which brings me to:

Seasonality

One of my joys is having distinct cold-weather and warm-weather clothing. I’m currently planning a trip to Scotland, and can’t wait to pull out my Donegal tweed jackets and flannel trousers to take on the trip. In shirting, so, too, can you diversify your wardrobe with seasonality. That said, when we’re talking about having a jacket on most of the time, the concept of a linen or linen-blend shirt making much of a difference in the summer heat is a bit of a stretch. I wear linen-cotton blends all year-round, as layering can warm them up in the winter (though I do not wear my heavier Oxford cloths in the summer). So when talking seasonally appropriate shirt fabrics, everything except those cloths at the fringes (pure linens or, say, peached cotton flannel) can be pretty much worn year-round, depending on how warm or cool you tend to naturally feel. 

Collar shape

If you want the most versatile collar shape, period, then just get all medium-spread collars and be done with it. They look great with a tie and without. Cutaways, button-downs, and point collars, however, is how you add back in variety. Generally, don’t go too extreme (such as huge 1970s point collars, David Beckham-esque cutaways or tiny, anemic button-downs), and you’re safe.

Button-downs are right at home with Oxford cloth (the ubiquitous, stylish and unequaled OCBD) and with a generous roll, give an insouciant feel that have enormous charm. Cutaways give a rakish vibe that generally look best on guys with a sharp jaw and slim figure (though, when worn open-collar, look great on almost anybody, in my opinion). And point collars (such as this beauty from Drake’s), are an overlooked-of-late collar style that give off a lived-in, almost working-class charm that works quite well when done right.

As you amass enough shirts to wear day-in and day-out, you can start to branch out to other interesting areas: denims and chambrays, awning stripes, linens and flannels, and of course, colors other than white and navy. But that’s a post for another time.

 

Member Focus: Chocsosa

Chocsosa has been a Styleforum member for a long, long time. Over the years, he’s had time to hone in on an impeccable – and classic – personal style – no small feat when you’re 6’8. Here, he talks about the early days of hiding his frame, as well as what encouraged him to start down the road to where he is today.


My style has definitely changed over the years. In my earlier days, it was more urban stuff – I was a product of the 90’s. So, for me it was gear like Karl Kani, Tommy Hilfiger, FUBU, polo sweaters, and oversized champion sweat shirts. It was easier then for me. Everything was bigger and baggier and that worked for my frame. I was 6’8 (still am) and probably a buck 85 soaking wet. I felt the oversized clothing helped hide my frame. So, for me it was interesting when I had to purchase my first suit. It was for prom and the salesman could not find anything long enough, inseam wise. I ended up getting a suit that was three times my size just to get the inseam right. It was barely tailored, but that worked for me because the goal was to be in and out of this “monkey suit” within a couple hours, so I didn’t sweat it. Lucky enough, there are no prom pictures out there, because I can only imagine how crazy I looked.

College was no different. It was the late 90’s and I still was comfortable in the baggy clothing that was still in style then. I was a poor college kid on academic scholarship without two pennies to rub together. So for the most part I was still rocking the gear from high school. I think the only thing I added at this point were some butters (Timberland’s), some Nike Air Force Ones (all white) and some old retro Jordans that were gifted to me from a brother of a friend who wore the same size shoes that I wore, worked the streets and had more shoes than he could handle. I had one white button down shirt and a wide striped tie that I wore to college functions when dressing up was required. The clothing was important because I did not have much but I was able to blend in (as much as I could) when I was in and out of college. I was a student athlete that was trying to make it through. Between all my honors classes my freshman year and the strenuous responsibilities of basketball, I did not have much time to dedicate to my wardrobe when there was no money available.

After college was when I started my sartorial journey to where I am today. At that point I had added some pea-coats, dress shirts and slacks but I still had no idea what I was doing. I needed to dress well for work as I was in a client facing role, so I was trying to look as put together as possible. I researched everywhere. I found some good beginner information from the GQs and the Esquires of the world, but it was not enough – even though they gave you an elementary education on how some stuff should fit there was still a lot of information lacking, I felt. It was on a tip from the Style Guy column from the late Glenn O’Brien (R.I.P) that I googled Styleforum and ended up on its doorstep. It was earth shattering to me because there was an answer to any sartorial question I ever had right at my finger tips. 10 years in and I’m still here, and I still find it a valuable resource and an inspiration almost every day.

My style now is more based on structure than pattern mixing. I like a clean garment with very little pulling, moderately structured shoulders, a nipped waist, open quarters (not aggressively so), higher rise (not aggressively so) and two inch cuffs (where I can find them). I am not a loud pattern guy, but I do like more subdued colors and palettes that mix well together. In my casual gear I wear a lot of outerwear and blazers that are cut slim with slim chinos or denim and boots or loafers. I find myself always coming back to those choices all the time and my wardrobe purchases reflect that.

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Impeccable Outfit Inspiration from Betelgeuse

impeccable outfit betelgeuse styleforum

 

Every so often, an outfit gets posted in the CM WAYWT thread that makes everyone pause, take a deep breath, and say: “Whoa.” This is one such. In many ways, it’s the archetypal Styleforum outfit, but executed to an incredible standard. No wonder the immediate response to Betleguese’s post was so glowing.

The ingredients are basic: navy tie, striped shirt, grey trousers, chukka boots, and a sport coat. However, the details make it stand out. Firstly, the jacket is brown, which prevents the ‘security guard’ look occasionally granted by a blue jacket. Second, everything fits perfectly. Take note in particular of the trousers – which Peter has covered elsewhere.

Really, there’s not much else to say. If you’re wondering how you can achieve this level of perfection, perhaps the best answer comes from this comment left by @heldentenor:

“I think I first saw that jacket of @Betelgeuse‘s about four years ago. Loved it then, still love it now. Awesome fit.”

That’s right – four years. Barely any time at all in the life of a jacket, but it shows that Betelgeuse is comfortable with his clothing, and that he has had time to wear the jacket enough to know exactly how to wear it.

Get Out and Enjoy a Romantic Evening Picnic

At least once a week, my fiancée and I head to the Botanic Gardens for a dinner free from distraction, and it’s a pastime I recommend everyone reading this embrace. It’s fun, it’s super romantic, and the best part about it is that it’s incredibly easy.

I’ve mentioned in the past – on numerous occasions – how much I enjoy dining outside, as well as how much I enjoy picnics. All you need is a cooler (or a fancy picnic hamper), a few tasty dishes, and a bottle of something equally delicious. In addition, I recommend taking the time to look at least a little bit nicer than you normally do, but I also recommend dressing in a way that suits the occasion. By that I mean leave both the tie and the tennis shoes at home. This is your chance to dress like a stylish gardener, or an exiled novelist, or whatever your own fantasies may entail. It’s like going out to dinner – only more celebratory. Here’s what I recommend, both in terms of wearing and eating.

1. Food

Really, as long as you can make your dish of choice portable, anything goes. Just avoid ‘heavy’ foods, since they’re largely at odds with the setting. Some of my favorite options include:

  • Baguette, cheese, olives, charcuterie (never forget to bring your baguette)
  • Caprese salad (we grow our own tomatoes and basil, and only use a bit of good oil and some salt)
  • Cold Soup – gazpacho or leek
  • Chilled soba noodles with steamed vegetables (use a vegetable peeler to slice zucchini and carrot into ribbons, steam very briefly, then stir into soba noodles with a peanut vinaigrette) or stir-fried mushrooms
  • Seared tuna bites (Sear, slice, wrap in individual packets of butter lettuce if you choose, top with thin-sliced jalapeno and a ponzo sauce)
  • Pre-grilled chicken skewers (chicken and green onion)
  • Tiramisu or creme brulée in individual ramekins – this gets you points, and both are very easy to make.

2. Drink

Recently, I had the very good idea of pre-mixing a pitcher of Mojito ‘concentrate’ (2 cups rum, 1 cup sugar, as much mint as you can find; blended) and bringing a bottle of sparkling water along with me. If you have access to a cheap rose you’ll love it, especially as the evenings become cooler. I tend not to bring ‘nicer’ bottles with me on picnics, just because everything tastes better when you’re outside anyway, and you also limit the chances of being disappointed if your plastic cup spills in the grass. Speaking of, a plastic cup is great to have, since it won’t shatter if you drop it. Plus, it’s not hard to can find clear plastic cups that are an elegant alternative to a wine glass (I always favor stemless) – just look for something that doesn’t have a pronounced lip. Oh, and if you’re bringing wine, don’t forget a corkscrew – and remember that something bubbly is always fun.

3. Where to Go

I’m a big fan of botanical gardens. We’re members at the one in Denver, and we tend to visit them when we travel. Of course, the nearest nice park (or beach) is also a great choice (just be surreptitious with your alcohol), and if you can drive 15 minutes out of the city to a pretty spot that’s also great. Just be sure that you’re not going to get stuck in traffic for more than 20 minutes – nothing kills romance and spontaneity like staring at the back of the same minivan for hours. If you do have a botanic garden near you – go! Especially if you’ve never been before. Strolling through beautiful gardens is a fantastic activity by itself.

4. What to Wear

As I said, if you’re picnicking with your significant other, this is a chance to look nice in a way you don’t look nice while at the office. It’s not really the time for ‘weekend’ clothes, and while you can certainly wear an odd jacket and trousers I recommend you give in to the weather and wear something more at home in the sun. I tend to favor floral prints, lightweight outerwear to fight the evening chill (which is a reality now that we’ve passed Labor Day), and loose or cropped pants that are comfortable for lounging, strolling, as well as sitting around when the sun starts to go down.

Here’s some of my recent picnic-wear:

 

5. Why You Should Picnic in the First Place

Because it’s fun. No, seriously: taking the time – during the week, no less – to consciously disconnect yourself from all the stress and distractions you probably don’t even know you have while you’re at home (phones, shows, computers, errands, etc.) results in a sense of profound relief, both mental and physical. The kind of relief that results in you feeling the stress leave your shoulders. Not only is the cooking and meal preparation cathartic (at least, it should be), but choosing an outfit based on no one’s expectations on your own is way more entertaining than choosing what you’ll wear to work or even to a restaurant. The older I get, the more I’ve come to cherish slow moments, especially with loved ones. A picnic – and the slight sense of celebration that goes with it – is a fantastic and intimate way to liven up your weekly grind and, I hope, start a new tradition.

 

Why I’ll Never Stop Loving The Big Shirt

I cherish my weekends. During the work week, my fiancée is gone early and returns late, and outside of our daily dog walks and once-weekly picnics (if you’re not picnicking once weekly with your significant other, reconsider your life), Saturday and – sometimes – Sunday are the only days we have to relax with a cup of coffee, our dogs, and a breakfast that isn’t a granola bar.

Every weekend, once I’ve had my coffee (decaf now, sadly) and am ready to start cooking, I invariably reach for the same garments: a comfy pair of shorts (or pants, if the morning is chilly), my Birkenstocks (say what you will), and a Big Shirt. And by Big Shirt I don’t mean an oversized gym tee. I mean a loose, oversized button-up shirt that I wear with the sleeves rolled halfway up my forearm. You may remember these from glorious 90’s moments such as this one:

Conversely, for a few years while I was in college, slim-fit shirts were the Holy Grail of menswear. At the same time that brands such as Band of Outsiders and Gitman Vintage were just getting popular on Styleforum, all my friends and I were constantly lamenting the unsightly ‘pooching’ effect you’d get around your middle when you tucked a ‘dress shirt’ from Express, or J Crew, or wherever into your ‘dress pants.’ Many things have changed since then, among them my own style, the relative tightness of your average shirt, and the knowledge of how the latter should fit.

The thing is, I’ve always been a t-shirt guy. I’m wearing one even now, although there’s a blazer over it, and a body-hugging button-up shirt just isn’t and never will be as comfortable. But a t-shirt just isn’t always appropriate, and when you want something with a collar, your recourse is the Big Shirt.

I have been, in many ways, groomed since birth to favor the Big Shirt. My mother is a painter, and many of my childhood memories involve seeing her in her own Big Shirt – either stolen from my father or purchased for herself – covered in paint, charcoal and wood chips. Similarly, my father chronically finds all clothing intensely uncomfortable, except for his selection of ancient and heavily-worn oxford cloth button downs. He wears them all the time, with everything – including under a sweater when skiing. As neither of them have ever been particularly interested in fashion or clothing, I never saw anything else. It should come as no surprise that the comfort I take in wearing a Big Shirt is both physical and mental.

My first Big Shirts were hand-me-downs from my father, and I still have them: pastel pink and pastel yellow oxfords from Polo by Ralph Lauren; even years after he gave them to me the shoulders are too big and the sleeves too long. They are, however, loose enough to be comfortable in the summertime, and offer just barely enough in the way of decorum so that if a friend comes over for brunch on the patio I don’t feel the need to change. I’ve also snuck them into the occasional casual outfit, usually secreted beneath a casual blazer or a heavy cardigan and paired with an equally casual pair of jeans or trousers.

I have a few other shirts I consider Big Shirts: one is a hand-me-down from my mother, one is a relatively new chambray workshirt from RRL, and the last is, similarly, a workshirt from Yellow Hook. The latter two are just about fitted in the shoulders, but cut loose enough through the waist to trick the wearer into forgetting they’re wearing a shirt. I’ve even tried to incorporate Big-Shirtness into the other aspects of my wardrobe, and one of my favorite shirts that isn’t for casual outfits is a Haider Ackermann women’s blouse in gold silk that is truly Big.

Speaking of, part of my love for the Big Shirt is due to its androgynous appeal – women and men alike look great in Big Shirts. Old Ralph Lauren ads are a truly great source of inspiration for oversized silhouettes, and the women’s suits of the 80’s are still fantastic. 80’s Armani and Versace advertisements are equally great, and all three brands showcase the elegance of billowy clothing – and of the Big Shirt in particuarly. I still love the look of billowing fabric and a cinched waist, and although trim-cut shirts are certainly still – and likely will be for the foreseeable future – very popular, there’s nothing better for a relaxed outfit than a Big Shirt.

You can, of course, head to your local Ralph Lauren outlet and buy an oxford a few sizes too big if this is an itch you’re interested in scratching, but 1) that lacks magic and 2) going to malls and outlets is a terrible experience. Instead, I’d recommend shopping Ebay or Etsy for old shirts. The key is really to find a shirt with a giant armhole and a pleated sleeve, because as much as we like to say that high armholes improve mobility – and they do – you’re much more mobile in a shirt that fits like a sack.

There are more than a few brands playing with bigness these days – popular names on Styleforum being Christophe Lemaire and Kapital – but if you’re sitting on the more classic side of the style spectrum, I’d suggest trying the vintage route first. Start with a plain white or blue oxford. Get yourself a narrow, over-long belt, then tuck your shirt into a pair of soft, pleated trousers; or wear it with comfy, worn denim; or be like me and wear it over a pair of beat-up hiking shorts. You just might find that what your wardrobe needs is a little bit of Big Shirtness.

The Appeal of Soft Tailoring

We all like to think we’re honing in on our “one true style”: the essence of who we are, expressed through our clothes. Our “cover letter to the world,” authentically articulated and intentionally discovered. Many – myself included – also want to look timeless. Yet sometimes I wonder whether my tastes were just shaped by the prevailing winds of the #menswear movement at the time I joined, and if I’ll find myself hopelessly out of date in another five years regardless. A little bit of the 2000s Ivy resurgence, a heavy dose of soft Neapolitan tailoring, trim flat-front trousers, double monks – you can probably date me to a 3-4 year period of time.

The solace I take when this thought crosses my mind is that whether or not what I like is considered “in fashion,” a rooting in a look that is stylish no matter what time period it originated in can always be appreciated. Soft tailoring is one of those deep roots that you can tap into.

It is nearly universal in the sense that every tailoring tradition of the world includes soft tailoring in its history. Neapolitan tailoring has dominated the conversation for several years now, but never forget the British drape cut essentially inspired it, nor that America’s sack cut reigned for decades.

No matter which silhouette you prefer, there is a strong case to be made for soft tailoring in the casual world of today. Here’s why:

1. Soft tailoring is more comfortable

Let’s be real: no form of tailored clothing will be more comfortable than shorts and a T-shirt. But a soft jacket (cut hopefully with a bit of extra room to reach and move around) with a lightweight canvas or even none at all can bridge the gap. Brands on the higher end who do this well include Boglioli, Corneliani, Caruso and Sartoria Formoa. Somewhat below that is Eidos, Ring Jacket, and Canali. In the lower end is LBM 1911 and SuitSupply. Of course, all those brands can be found on eBay or the Styleforum buying and selling forum, which can lead to amazing deals on high-end clothes

2. Soft tailoring is conducive to off-hours leisure

If you like to wear tailoring even when it’s not required (as I do), soft jackets can help in softening your appearance in less formal settings. To be clear, wearing any form of jacket with lapels will make you look “dressed up” to most. But there are some good in-between options out there that connect casual outerwear influences with tailoring influences. Engineered Garments and Private White VC are two good examples that lean more towards the casual end of this spectrum.

3. Soft tailoring pairs naturally with casual fabrics that pair well with other casual wardrobe items

Summer fabrics like linen, cotton, linen blends (and for the adventurous, madras) pair extremely well with open-collar shirts, light jeans, chinos, linen/linen-blend trousers, and suede loafers. Tweeds and heavy fabrics look right at home with Oxford button down shirts, wool ties, suede loafers, and chunky wingtips or boots. Academics wearing well-worn elbow-patched tweed jackets from Brooks Brothers with an OCBD and penny loafers is a clichéd look, but one that’s rooted in history. It will never be out of style, and the comfort afforded by the softly tailored jacket makes sense for a life on campus.

4. Soft tailoring transitions well from dressed up to dressed down

Many times when my wife and I know we’ll be going out with friends at the end of the day, I know if I wear a softly tailored jacket and the right pair of shoes (usually suede), all I’ve got to do is take off my tie and put on a pair of jeans and I’m good. The two main factors at play are the softness of the tailoring as well as the fabric it’s made from. I tend to wear sport coats with odd trousers instead of suits, which makes it easier to simply change pants, but companies such as Eidos and Suit Supply do make suits in fabrics that are easy to break apart.

Ultimately, who you are is conveyed most importantly by your presence, personality, intellect and heart. Clothes can help make a first impression, but past that, it’s all up to you. The benefits of soft tailoring come into play by making you look good, feel great for knowing that part is taken care of, and allowing you to be comfortable. And once your brain is free to stop worrying about that, then your true character can really shine.

Dress for Aperitivo with An Acute Style

dress for aperitivo

First, an admission: @AnAcuteStyle is not in Italy. But when Arianna goes out of her way to describe a not-too-stuffy-but-still-put-together outfit suitable for aperitivo al fresco in late summer, I think it’s fair to bend the boundaries a little bit – especially when the outfit in question would be at home anywhere drinks are drunk and salty snacks are snacked.

My own experiences of aperitivo have been limited to my adventures at Pitti Uomo, and have largely taken in places patronized by men and women dressed much more nicely than myself (think of bars along the Arno, palazzos in the city center, and songstresses in floor-length gowns).  AAS would fit right in with that scene – much better than I ever do. That’s because his very East-Coast American look is both sharp and soft (yes, sharp and soft) enough to pass muster on the other side of the Atlantic as well. Strong roots, if you will.

I’ve always been a fan of blue-on-blue, and if you’re traveling for your aperitivo a sport coat in navy cotton is a fantastically versatile option that can be worn on the plane or with the collar turned up against an evening chill. When the weather starts to turn – chilly in the morning and evenings – I really like denim and chambray shirts for their versatility. They look good both under a jacket and alone, and with the appropriate weave you can get that lovely crunchy-cool-but-insulating feeling of a linen shirt.

The heavy tassel loafers and O-ring belt pull the outfit more towards the American than the Italian, but I think that’s why the balance works so well. Combined with a madras ball cap (I’ll admit I couldn’t find one in stock to link to), you’ll be ready to pursue Italy’s favorite pastime no matter where you are.