Category Archives: Style

The Best Ties For Summer

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Even though most of us dread the unbearable humidity and heat that comes with summer, we still need to dress professionally. While we can likely endure wearing year-round or three-season suiting in air conditioned offices, the clothes that tend to bring us the most joy in summer – as in winter – are those made from fabrics specific to the season. Our garments for summer can be as particular, as interesting and as beautiful as those for winter, in that they have different characteristics in make, color, weave, and the like. However, in order to complete the outfit, you still need the right accessories; only then will you ensure that the ensemble is complete.

Fabrics for summer ties are similar to those for our garments. While there are ties that can work all year long, or for most seasons – grenadine, silk rep, printed silk all come to mind – you might want to add a little seasonal variation by adding an interesting element into an outfit. Just as is the case with an odd sport coat, crunchy or slubby textures, open weaves, or unstructured designs all help make a tie more summer-friendly. Playing with color, as you would with said odd jacket, also helps a tie to be more appropriate for warm weather – pastels or subdued neutrals work well for summer. Personally, I enjoy a six or seven-fold tie for less structure, especially when paired with a more open weave, such as grenadine in a light but muted blue or green. It gives it a sort of nonchalant look that works for most occasions, excepting the most formal or serious business meetings.

Shantung, or tussah silk, offers a slubby texture that helps bring an informal element to the tie. This is a wild silk that is obtained from silkworms that feed on leaves in an uncontrolled environment; because there is less control over the process, the silk worm hatches to break the filament length, creating shorter and more coarse fibers, which provides a more ‘matte’ look.

Ties made of linen or linen blends have the benefit of inherent slubbiness, but they wrinkle easily. They do retain that crisp nature that all linens share, which allows these fabrics to drape well especially when lined. Just keep in mind that they work best for less formal outfits, and work especially well when paired with linen or cotton suits.

Cotton and cotton-blend ties are similar to linen, serving as a more relaxed option. They tend to wrinkle – like linen – but do not have that crisp characteristic; this means that they exhibit less of an elegant drape. I recommend cotton ties for the most relaxed environments, and they would be at home more with an odd jacket or a cotton suit.

Here is a list of some examples for summer appropriate ties that we think are worth considering, and a few tips on how to pair them.

This tan shantung silk tie from Calabrese 1924 via No Man Walks Alone provides a classic stripe, but the subdued, neutral tan and the slubby fabric help to make it more of a summer affair. This self-tipped tie provides a structured neckpiece that could work in most occasions.

liverano summer tie

This Liverano&Liverano seven-fold silk tie is the epitome of a tie for the more conservative striped style. The colors scream Ivy League (if you ignore that the direction of the stripes are European instead of American), and it begs to be worn under the staple hopsack blazer in everyone’s closet. The orange almost evokes that quintessential go-to-hell attitude that you might not dare pull off with colored trousers.

drake's tie linen summer

This tie from Drakes features tussah silk in a natural color. Paired with an odd linen sport coat, the tie would wear well, seeing as it has hand rolled blades and less structure than a normal tie.

seersucker tie vanda fine clothing summer

How many times in your life have you seen a seersucker tie? This gorgeous muted green tie from Vanda Fine Clothing is extremely neutral, and would pair lovingly under blue, tan and brown jackets. The handrolled edges and light lining complete the nonchalant air.

vanda oatmeal tie summer

This tie made by hand from Vanda Fine Clothing out of Solbiati linen is a great warm weather accessory. The texture and wrinkles with the classic Glenplaid pattern and subdued neutral colors makes this an exceptional tie under a wool-fresco or linen jacket.

Airport Style for Vacation Comfort

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It’s vacation time, which means it’s time to consider what you’ll be wearing to survive airports, airplanes, layovers, and transportation – all while not looking like a slob. Modern air travel is largely a miserable experience, and it’s hard to resist the urge to do what you can to make yourself as comfortable as possible. Most of the people you see on airplanes and in airports will probably be wearing sweat pants or workout pants of some variety, and frankly, considering the tiny seats, flight delays, violent flight attendants, and lost baggage, I can’t fault them for that.

Jacket

Pockets, pockets, pockets. Gum, chapstick, wallet, passport, boarding pass – all of these will have to go somewhere, and I absolutely hate carrying things in my hands through airports, because I’m certain I’ll drop something without noticing, or set something down and forget to pick it back up. Internal pockets are key, as is a cut comfortable enough to allow you to wear it all flight long or place luggage in the overhead bins.

 

Shirt

There’s something about airports that makes everyone look like a slob. Things spill. Things wrinkle. If you’re the kind of guy who usually wears a crisp white tee and feels good, you’ll probably end up looking like you just rolled out of bed after a cheeto binge. A collar, or at least a button placket, keeps this effect at bay. Oh, and white is not a great shirt color choice – nothing stays clean on an airplane.

Pants

Yes, pants. If you opt for shorts, you run the risk of finding yourself freezing when the aircraft air-con kicks into hyperdrive. Additionally, I haven’t worn denim on a plane in years, and can safely say that even slim jeans are terrible airline pants. Instead, opt for a breathable, woven trouser of some kind (or at least a loose-cut twill) that will keep you comfortable when you’re sitting on the tarmac and the AC’s not on, as well as when you’re in the air and it’s blasting. As long as the cut is comfortable, the fabric shouldn’t matter that much – as long as it allows at least some airflow.

Shoes

Slip-on, slip-off. You know this, don’t you? Loafers, slip-on sneakers, or slippers are all good choices – shoes that you can remove and put on while the seatbelt sign is on are worth their weight in gold. Anyone who’s ever experienced the horrible feeling of trying to stuff swollen feet back into laced shoes or boots after a long flight knows how truly hellish an experience that is, so keep in mind that after hours in the air, even the walk to baggage claim is going to make your feet feel as tired and uncomfortable as if you’d been walking all day.

 

My Signature (Winter) Look: Gerry Nelson

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We can always count on Gerry Nelson for consistently great outfits and great insight to go along with them. This week, we figured that you, just like us, would be sick of the heat, so we turned to our friend from down under for a glimpse of cool-weather style, and what (hopefully) awaits those of us in the Northern Hemisphere 2-3 months from now.

We’re particularly impressed with his ability to choose garments that are both versatile and interesting – he does a great job of mixing and matching seemingly-complex textures or patterns that others might find daunting, and can always be counted on to put his own twist on otherwise simple outfits. Below, he details his signature look, and in the process gives us all some great inspiration to keep in mind when autumn collections begin to hit our favorite stores.

When it came to writing a piece about my signature winter look, one template stood out to me. A chunky, shawl-collared cardigan, a thick shirt (or thin turtleneck sweater), some warm trousers and textured shoes are all I need. What draws me to this outfit time and time again is how comfortable and adaptable it is. I have a few of these cardigans now and wear them when the weather gets cooler, but it’s important that they fit well. The baggier they are, the greater the chance you can end up looking fuddy-duddy.

For example, if I’m relaxing at home or it’s cool outside, the cardigan over a shirt is more than enough. If it’s a little colder, I add a scarf, and if it’s colder still, I can throw on a roomy coat. Sometimes, I even wear a vest underneath. What I like is that this feels completely comfortable to wear at home, at work or even when I’m out for the weekend.

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Do yourself a favor and follow Gerry on Instagram

Outfit Inspiration from AlexRamius

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alexramius styleforum

Navy trousers get a bad rap on Styleforum. I read a lot of complaints about versatility, utility, and color matching, but this photo of member Alexramius should change your mind. The patterned sport coat on top helps to balance out the ‘weight’ of the solid color on the bottom, and the heavily-textured tie equally draws the eye upwards. This, my friends, is a great look. I love a good cream jacket, and the subtle PoW check on this model makes it more enticing – and perhaps more versatile – than a solid cream option would be.

I’ve taken the liberty of suggesting a brown shantung tie and navy pocket square below, purely for argument’s sake – those are two colors that I really enjoy when paired with cream, although I think that any subdued – particularly earthy – colors of your choice would be a great match for spring through fall, and offer a pleasing and subtle counterpoint to the bright summer outfits that are still flooding Instagram.

Do Your Hair Like Jasper (If You Want)

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I get a lot of hair-related questions. Most of them are only half-serious, and many of them are mocking. Even so, Arianna has asked me to write about the proteins extruded from my scalp, and I told her that I would try.

I generally keep my hair at a short or medium length, although I did try to grow it out once, to which my girlfriend put a stop before I achieved the princely locks I had envisioned. That means that all of these recommendations are for hair of a similar length – I really have no idea how to deal with rockstar curls or anything like that. I also have very thick hair, so keep that in mind. 

First of all, make sure that you’re nurturing said extruded proteins by following a proper hair-care routine. Mine is as follows:

  • Shower, sometimes (usually at night).
  • Wash my hair, if I remember.
    • Shampoos and conditioners that contain Tea Tree Oil or Eucalyptus smell nice.
  • Go to sleep.
    • Drool on pillow.
  • If sleeping on wet hair, hair may or may not need styling in AM. Sometimes I rub product in wet hair before going to bed, because #iwokeuplikethis. Perhaps it’s the pillow drool that really does the trick.

If styling hair, follow one of two steps:

  • If blow-drying: add warmed-up product to towel-dried hair, then style and blow-dry to the best of my meager abilities if I have the time or inclination. I almost use a penny-sized amount of product, and heat it either by rubbing my hands together or by pointing the blow-dryer at it for a bit. 
  • If not showered: dampen product with a drop of hot water, work it into a paste, and apply directly to dry hair – gives it a different texture, but it works.

I’ve played with a lot of different products, and most of the ones I’ve ended up liking have been recommendations from my hairdresser, who has been cutting my hair since I was 8. I’ve had poor luck with just about everything I’ve ever purchased from your standard Target/Walgreens/whatever, and at this point I’m not going to keep trying, because let’s face it: American Crew just kind of sucks. However, a few products have stood out to me over the years, and I’ll go over them here.

1. Fatboy

kevin murphy fatboy sumotech styleforum hair style tips styleforum hair products styleforum do your hair like jasper

Fatboy’s perfect putty in medium-length hair


Right now, I’m pretty enamored with fatboy hair products, and specifically with the perfect putty. I have a used a lot of different products of this type, and I think it’s my favorite, especially considering the price (21$ for 2.6oz). There’s no grease to it, it gives a matte finish, and it is really, really lightweight – and it smells nice. If you’re trying to use various ‘clay’ products and they’re not what you wanted, give this a shot.

I’ve also sampled the water wax, as a kind of finisher to dry blow-dried hair that adds some nice texture and a bit of shine. I’ve never used it by itself, however, and it doesn’t feel like a ‘necessary’ product in my life.

Based on how much I’ve liked the fatboy products I’ve tried, I’d definitely be interested in experimenting with their other offerings, but the perfect putty is more or less everything I need.

2. Bumble and Bumble Sumotech

kevin murphy fatboy sumotech styleforum hair style tips styleforum hair products styleforum do your hair like jasper

Bumble & Bumble’s Sumotech in short hair

Another wax-putty, Sumotech is very similar to fatboy’s perfect putty, with a slightly different, slightly waxier texture, though it also gives a matte finish (with perhaps a touch more shine to it). This was my favorite product until I started using fatboy, and I can definitely recommend it. However, it costs 29$ for a 1.6oz jar, which definitely tips the scales in fatboy’s favor. Even so, it smells great, works great, and generally feels great in the hair, so have at it.

Similarly, I went through a period during which I was using B&B’s Sumowax, which is, well, a wax. Hard-hold, and all that; I think it works well for shorter hair, and gives some hold and separation without making you look like you’re in 8th grade – if you follow. Again, I can recommend it, either on its own or as a finishing product.

The cheapest place I know of to buy Sumotech is Amazon, but both of these products are also sold at Sephora.

3. Kevin Murphy Gritty Business

kevin murphy fatboy sumotech styleforum hair style tips styleforum hair products styleforum do your hair like jasper

Kevin Murphy’s Gritty Business in long(er) hair

Kevin Murphy has a whole line of apparently well-regarded styling products, but the only one I’ve ever used is Gritty Business. This is a clay/wax blend, so it behaves differently from the options above. You can either apply it the same way as the two above (put in damp hair, rub around, profit), or you can apply it to completely dry hair as well. It gives a much messier look than the putties above, and according to their website is good for thinner hair.

I ended up really liking this, but doubt I’ll buy it again for my personal uses – it’s heavier than a pure wax or putty, which I don’t need. The easiest way to get it is via Amazon, and at 31$ for 3.4oz it’s not a bad deal.

4. Bumble & Bumble Surf Spray

This is one of the only – I don’t know what you’d call it – ‘additional’ hair products I’ve ever liked. A ton of companies make something like this – look like you were just at the beach! – but this is the only one I’ve ever thought did anything. It adds a little salty texture, but it’s dry instead of waxy. You can apply to damp or dry hair, but in my case I’ve used it in tandem with Sumotech/putty once my hair is mostly dry, or on days when I get up and my hair is dry and I don’t feel like getting it wet and re-styling. Spray it, work it around and let it air dry – B&B recommends using a diffuser on your blow-dryer if you go that route, but I don’t have one of those.

Surf Spray is nice because it’s really lightweight, so if you’re not looking for a firm hold or a lot of shape, it’s a good way to add texture without your hair feeling greasy or weighed-down.

Oh, and if you’re ever in Boulder, CO, you can give West End Salon a call and ask for Meg.

My Signature Look: Erik Mannby

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Erik Mannby is a long-time member of Styleforum, and has been a contributor to the Styleforum Journal. He’s now the Editor-in-Chief of Plaza Uomo, which means he’s even more of an Instagram star than he already was. He’s also a genuinely stylish fellow, and a great person to look to for your own inspiration.

-Jasper

When asked about a “signature look,” I really had to think about my go-to’s. Do I have a personal style? In that case, what does it look like? I guess I actually do, and if I would narrow it down, I’d say ‘casual classic,’ with a few signature garments.

I love safari jackets and field jackets in a variety of designs and shapes. Therefore, it feels quite natural that I should include this as a signature garment. I also like high rise trousers, earthy colors, and hats and caps. It’s next to impossible explaining why one likes a certain aesthetic, but I guess the casual take may have something to do with my personality in general. I like comfort and purpose in my everyday wardrobe, but almost always in a classic cut (something that actually increases comfort). The two examples below offer a nice summary of what I would call my ‘signature.’

erik mannby signature look styleforum member inspiration
Picture by Fredrik Sellberg

Here, I’m wearing a safari style jacket in brown linen, that I actually made myself. The sunglasses are by Nividas, the butcher stripe MTM shirt by Shirtonomy, and a green tie with medallions by Spacca Neapolis. The linen/wool pocket square is from X of Pentacles, the watch by Kronaby, the MTM off-white linen trousers by Luxire, and the brown single monks by Carlos Santos for Herring shoes.

erik mannby signature look styleforum member inspiration
Photo by Fredrik Sellberg.

Here, I’m wearing a reproduction of a WWII Khaki Drill Jacket, as worn by the British Army, while the linen newsboy cap is by Stetson. The polo is an Eidos ‘Lupo, and the scarf is a silk/wool pocket square, again by X of Pentacles. The same off-white trousers by Luxire and brown single monks by Carlos Santos for Herring shoes round it all out.

Follow Erik on Instagram

Style Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

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styleforum outfit inspiration diplomatic ties diplomaticties styleforum Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

Inspiration from Diplomatic Ties

 

This week, we’re revisiting our friend Diplomatic Ties for some outfit inspiration. As you may remember from reading his member focus, he likes to get a little bit adventurous, and while this combination isn’t exactly wild, it’s a great way to break up the monotony of a blue jacket with grey trousers. In particular, I like that he’s chosen black shoes – anathema in the minds of many Stylefarmers – which in this case are a choice that grounds the outfit nicely (for the record, I think brown suede would have worked as well, and with a brown shoe I think the whole look would work very well tie-less).

I’m really enjoying the look of burgundies and purples as an alternative to navy and brown jackets, especially in subdued tones that keep the look from feeling costume-y. Diplomatic Ties’ choice features a subtle pattern and a peak lapel, but I think a solid option, such as this linen Formosa model from No Man Walks Alone, would look equally nice. Combined with a more familiar grey trouser, it’s just enough outside the norm to be interesting, but you’re unlikely to feel uncomfortably loud. Again, you could easily wear this same combination with a brown shoe or a loafer and look equally well put-together.

All credit to DT for some welcome experimentation with color – if you’re not already, be sure to share your outfits in the WAYWT thread.

Versatile Shoes You Can Dress Up Or Down

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I get told a lot that I am the “master” of pairing tailored jackets with jeans. I’m not sure if that’s true (people who say that probably haven’t seen @NOBD’s masterful mixing of tailoring with denim, chronicled over many years), but what I do know is that a major element of getting it right is having versatile shoes that work with both tailored and casual clothing equally well.

My footwear choices have settled into a pretty small rotation of shoes and boots that get tons of wear through regular rotation. As always, the major motivational forces behind my choices are versatility and maximizing the dollars I spend. I have settled on the shoes I own because they can be dressed up or down. So I thought I’d share with you the guiding principles I use when deciding what shoes to buy or wear. Before moving on, let me say I am not a sneaker guy, so I have no related guidance to share in this post.

First, here are some basic characteristics I look for in a shoe, with a brief explanation:

  • The less shiny, the better.
    • See this painful WAYWT post from 2011 to understand how I arrived at this point. With denim, a shiny dress shoe just looks like you changed out of your suit but forgot to bring a change of shoes.
versatile shoes styleforum

Kids, don’t do this.

  • The only exception to this rule is shell cordovan. I can’t explain why it works, but it does. #8 Alden tassel loafers were practically invented for selvedge denim, in my opinion.
  • Texture is good!
  • You can’t go wrong with suede, generally.


    • These two go hand-in-hand, but obviously there are textures aside from suede that can work well with denim that aren’t too rugged for tailoring. Pebble grain stands out in my mind as an excellent variation of calf leather that holds just enough surface texture for jeans. Boots in Chromexcel or other matte finishes can work with tailoring, too, but that will often depend on the overall design (e.g. Doc Martens are a no-go with tailoring, but a more classic wingtip boot might).
  • Brown, basically all the time
    • Not that this point needs to be made on Styleforum, but black is usually best reserved for more formal fits. One exception is black suede, which can look great with black jeans as well as gray trousers. The only black shoes I own are black cap-toes, which I reserve for dress wear. However, I think black suede can look awesome with charcoal or mid-gray trousers, as well as dark denim.
  • Not too pointy, not too roundy
    • Super pointy shoes look weird with denim. I think it’s because more pointed shoe lasts tend to feel refined and elegant, which clashes with the ruggedness of denim. The line between too pointy and reasonably pointy is fuzzy, though. Christian Kimber’s last shape from his collaboration with Eidos a couple winters ago had an aggressively tapered toe, but on a chukka boot with a commando sole in dark brown suede. It looked good with slim denim, but I’m not sure it would look good with a wider cut, including a 501-style silhouette. And of course, many Texans swear by pointy cowboy boots with denim (which I can fully get behind).
    • On the flip side, you can’t go too rounded in toe shape if you hope to dress them up. In my mind, a Clarks desert boot looks right at ease with chinos or jeans, but is too round for use with dressier fits, so it fails my versatility test. Somewhere in between these extremes is the range I tend to stay in.

Here are some general, holistic rules to consider:

  • Pointier, daintier, shinier shoes look good with trousers and suits, but not as good with denim or chinos. The blucher style can be dressed up or down more easily than the balmoral style, as can loafers. Thin soles with a narrow welt feel more dainty to me—though some ballsy folks have rocked Belgian loafers with denim to great effect.
  • Rounder, more rugged, more textured or suede shoes look good with denim, but weird with trousers or suits. Ankle boots like chukkas, jodhpurs or chelseas can work with dress trousers as well as denim, but that look does best when the hem is on the shorter side so they don’t have too much of a break. The same goes for higher boots. For both types of boots, just make sure the last shape “toes” the line (heh, get it?) between too pointy or too rounded.

Finally, here are some personal notes that build on the above points:

  • Did I mention that suede looks good with nearly everything?
    • Dark brown or snuff suede is universally attractive and will never look bad. At this point, I pretty much only wear suede dress shoes. Penny and tassel loafers see wear most of the year round, with chukkas and jodhpurs added in the colder months. I only wear my calf double monks and black cap-toes every couple weeks or so.
  • Pebble grain calf leather is the next best thing to suede for dressing up or down.
    • I’ve been eyeing some pebble grain tassel loafers, and am perennially attracted to Scotch grain long wings. 
  • It’s good to have a pair of ankle boots or pebble grain shoes with rubber soles.
    • Boots with a Dainite, commando, or other rubber sole are a must for rain and wintry slush.
  • There is one other pair of shoes I own that gets more wear than all the rest of them combined, but which I don’t generally wear with tailoring: the canoe moccasin. It’s a far more casual shoe, and something I wear with shirt jackets, sweaters, or just with my shirt sleeves rolled up. Mine are beat-to-death Sperry’s that I suspect may be some of the Chinese knock-offs that are sold through Amazon. My favorite well-made ones are the Oak Street version, and I intend to get some of those at some point. On the other hand, it’s kind of refreshing that a two-year old, $20 purchase is still going strong and providing me with so much use.

What are your criteria for footwear that is versatile enough to dress up and down? Sound off in the comments!

Kneecaps on Parade: The Season’s Best Shorts

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If you spend all your days in an over-air-conditioned office, you’re probably not that concerned about the summer heat – it’s more likely that you’re wearing a coat to work to deal with hyperactive air conditioning. But if you find the chance to put away your linen and fresco trousers and spend some time outside, you may want to consider the heresy of shorts.

Now, those of you who are still complaining that men don’t wear shorts, can’t wear shorts, shouldn’t wear shorts – it’s time to give it up. Yes, if you’re in Europe, you’ll still be the outlier – but that’s why we left England, right? For the freedom to bare our tender little kneecaps which, thanks to the magic of sunscreen, can now escape the anger of the sun largely unscathed.

The thing is, for years the only reliable option available for a man looking for a pair of shorts was The Shorts; essentially chinos hemmed to fall just above the knee. They look fine with a button-up shirt, and if you wear your slightly ratty race tee from last year, no one really bats an eye. But you might be happy to know that you have more options. And you may also be happy to know that cargo shorts are now a thing again – if they ever went away. 

Change the Fabric

The easiest way to find summer relief is to look for a short pant in a lightweight fabric. Making a short in linen might not exactly be a revelation, but if you dread the summer months because your shorts are all thick cotton or (gasp!) denim, you might find solace in lighter-weight fabrics. Linen is certainly one option, but fabrics such as cotton gabardines or lightweight nylon blends can go a long way in helping you maintain some semblance of comfort. I’ve never understood the idea of a “heavy-duty short,” which seems to have come into being as a part of the lumberjack-manliness revival thing of the earlier 00’s, but I would avoid any product that tends that direction if I were you. If you need heavy-duty clothing, you probably need to wear something other than shorts. And if you need to wear shorts, you probably don’t want them to be heavy duty.

Thankfully, it’s not hard to find a brand offering a lighter-weight fabric. My perennial favorite, Blue Blue Japan, offers shorts made of linen or gauzy cotton in the same beautiful indigo hues as all their goods; but everyone from H+M to Cuccinelli is making them. They often tend towards Bermuda styles, but there are plenty of other shapes out there for a consumer who’s willing to browse the internet for an hour or two, such as this fun pair from Margaret Howell.

Bermuda styles are certainly an easy option if you favor a more conservative style of dress – wearing a short with a pair of loafers or espadrilles is definitely an acceptable way to keep both leg and foot cool while maintaining a semblance of propriety. My only word of warning is that once you cross the threshold of the upper kneecap, a Bermuda short can start to look a bit dated – and also start to restrict mobility in an uncomfortable way.

 

Change the Shape:

If you’re a streetwear die-hard, you’ll know that the wide, wool short look has been around for more than a few seasons, but it feels as though it’s really hit the mainstream now. There are a lot of brands experimenting with this silhouette: Rick Owens has, of course, been producing variations on his Swinger shorts for a decade now, and a host of brands like Acne, Comme des Garçons, Weekday, Philip Lim and E.Tautz have made it a standby as well. They often (but not always) hit below the knee, and the color of choice seems to be black – which is not the first option my mind runs to in summer.

However, you don’t have to go full-force to embrace a more interesting shape, and you don’t have to limit yourself to black wool. Dries van Noten has been playing with wide shorts, both short and long, in a host of fabrics for years. You can find cottons, satins, and wools, some with prints and some without, and he’s one of the only designers who can take such a long-derided item of clothing and make it look both chic and flattering without resorting to Gucci resort-level sleaziness. However, I think the relative newcomer Ddugoff also makes a nice-looking pair.  

In addition, for the more #menswear-focused, we’ve seen a few companies offering belted, pleated, ‘Gurkha’-style shorts this season, such as this Pitti-ready pair from Rubinacci. Wear with loafers, etc.

The beauty of wide shorts is that they do a half-decent job of keeping you cool. Airflow stays constant, and you don’t get the unpleasant feeling of tight fabric sticking to your thighs or – god forbid – chafing you when you walk. I also find that a slightly wider leg and leg opening – I’m just talking even just a couple of inches of breathing room – can balance out a looser top, and offer you more possibilities for styling – a topic we’ll cover next week.

Change Your Whole Lifestyle, Man

The rise of athleisure has made it possible for lazy oafs like me to claim we’re dressing fashionably while staying comfortable in our hiking and running shorts. I, for one, am not complaining, and since techwear is now officially a Thing, there are more brands than I can count that are now playing with takes on the “day-hiker in the big city” look. I tend to favor this over the “urban ninja cyborg” look – although if we’re talking utility, I suggest you follow your heart.

The best thing about this movement is that you can just wear your comfy hiking or trail shoes and feel fine about it. Well, with restrictions – those wide-toed Merrell things are always going to be ugly as sin, but Salomon trail shoes are firmly established in all the hippest streetwear stores, and they’ve got decent arch support to boot.

Of course, if you’re looking for the perfect complement to your Tevas, you can still find Gramicci’s original G short for about thirty bucks. There are also no end of hiking – and military-inspired cargo shorts, which will go largely unnoticed but will be useful. Brands like Battenwear and Snow Peak will have neat options, as will Nonnative. My only recommendation is that you stay clear of the “sweat short” unless you’re actually using them pre- or post-workout. Not for any aesthetic reason; just because wearing sweat shorts during the summertime is truly miserable.

 

Regardless of what you choose this summer, breaking up the monotony of your usual backyard wear can be a good way to keep yourself from mentally dreading the month you have to wait for cooler temperatures to come around again. I know it’s hard not to salivate at the upcoming fall collections, but taking some interest in the shorts you’re wearing can also help you feel like less of an utter child whenever you put them on.

How Much Does a Quality Suit Cost?

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How Much Does Quality Cost?
In one form or another, this question turns up every couple of days on the forum: “I’m looking for a quality suit/shirt/shoe/pair of underwear.  How much should I spend?” Before answering this question, it’s best to specify what “quality” is. Quality is not fit; nor is it style.  Assuming you have a department store full of identical suits, all cut in the same shape and designed with the same details, how do you identify and measure quality? There are two aspects to consider: what the garment is made of, and how it’s put together.  In other words, material and method.  Let’s start with material.
MATERIAL
Not all fabrics are created equal.  Cheap wool uses short, brittle fibers, woven just tightly enough to hold everything together.  The resulting fabric will have the body of tissue paper, wrinkle like wax paper, and pill uncontrollably.  On the other hand, some companies approach weaving like a science.  All sheep produce wool, but some sheep produce better wool.  Most wool is bulky and scratchy, but Merino sheep’s wool, for example, contain fibers with some of the smallest diameters – 24 microns and below – which not only makes it soft, but allows it to bend and stretch without breaking and pilling like thicker fibers. 
Short fibers are cheap to make, but they fray and separate easily.  Longer fibers are prized for greater strength and resiliency, but cost more to manufacture.  Some weavers twist two or more fibers together, which gives the fabric greater spring, drape, and wrinkle resistance.  Others comb short woolen fibers to create flannel, a fabric of unparalleled softness and warmth.  All of these qualities require additional steps and processes that can be useful, desirable, or both.  Regardless of whether or not you are willing to pay the price for them, they undeniably add to the excellence of a particular material.
METHOD
Whereas the measurement of quality material is objectively unequivocal – no one wants to wear a flimsy, scratchy, pilly suit – quality of method is not so distinct, at least not anymore.  Time was, if you wanted a suit to last, it was made by hand, since the clumsy, brutish contraptions of yore couldn’t compete with the finer, more dexterous needlework of a skilled tailor.  Nowadays, some parts of the suit not only can be machine-made, they are all they better for it, pieced together with elaborate stitches that are stronger and more uniform that any human hand, and in a fraction of the time.

What about the method can be quantified?  For one, the way a jacket is canvassed, or lined.  Jackets are canvassed because one of the downsides of having a quality fabric that springs back to shape and lays flat is that it often won’t drape smoothly over your shoulders, chest and torso without help.  To put it another way, it’s difficult to mold a two-dimensional fabric into a three-dimensional form.  Lining the jacket (between the outer fabric you see and the interior of the jacket) with a more malleable material gives it structure, and allows the jacket to be shaped to follow more corporeal contours, and to eventually take on your own body’s silhouette.  Whether you have the frame of Albert Beckles or Albert Jackson, a properly-cut canvassed jacket fits and flatters the wearer in comfortable, masculine elegance.

There are several methods of canvassing, the best of which is known as full-canvassing. This involves sewing the interlining (traditionally horsehair blended with other natural fibers, but can also be different fabrics), starting at the top of the shoulder and extending down the front to the bottom of the jacket.  This provides all the benefits mentioned above, but as it is time-consuming (and often done by hand) it adds substantially to the price tag.

how much does a quality suit cost styleforum suit canvassing styleforum what is suit canvas styleforum

Left to right: haircloth, wrapped hair cloth, wool canvas, and fusible interlining

A more economical method is fusing, or gluing, an interlining to the shell of the jacket.  This greatly decreases production time, but at a cost – the resulting stiffness of the glue and interlining can leave a jacket looking like a lifeless mannequin, and in some cases the glue can actually deteriorate (due to cleaning and pressing) and the interlining will detach from the suit in spots, causing the fabric to ripple and bubble. 
Half-canvassed suits offer a compromise of cost and quality: interlining is sewn to the jacket in the top half, and fused in the rest.  This helps reduce overall costs while providing an acceptable measure of shape.  If you’d like to read more details about the differences between these processes, Styleforum member and
tailoring guru Jeffery Diduch wrote a fantastic article about the various methods of canvassing here.
WHAT DO BRANDS OFFER?
Now we can start to answer the question posed at the beginning: how much does quality cost? Want the the answer? Expect to at pay least $700 (full retail, excluding sales) for a fully-canvassed suit cut with decent fabric. Why, then, do some suits cost ten times that? 

@SeamasterLux and @Dirnelli, both members of Styleforum who have their own blogs and contribute to Parisian Gentleman, have done a phenomenal amount of research that far exceeds anything I could ever attempt.  Fortunately for us, they’ve created a thread that lists an exhaustive Rolodex of various ready-to-wear makers and compares their relative quality (objective), style (subjective), and handwork (soul).  Here are a few highlights, along with a few of my own suggestions, listed in order of cost.

$500-$1000
TM Lewin
Suitsupply
Boggi
Hickey Freeman
Ring
Brooks Brothers
$1000-$1500
Polo Ralph Lauren
Boglioli
Hackett
Lardini
$1500-$2000
Paul Stuart
Caruso (maker of many ‘designer’ lines)
Canali
Corneliani (maker of many ‘designer’ lines)
Sartoria Formosa (their RTW is made to bespoke standards)
$2500 and up
Ralph Lauren Purple Lapel
Zegna
Borrelli
Belvest (maker of many ‘designer’ lines)
Brioni
Isaia
Oxxford
Gucci/Tom Ford
Kiton
Attolini

Whereas the cost of fabric and canvassing decidedly add to the quality of a suit, some may argue against the merits of style and handwork.  Frankly, the width of the lapel, shoulder treatment, and hand-padded collar contributes little to the longevity of a suit.  Styleforum member and Bay Area bud Derek of dieworkwear wrote some refreshingly honest thoughts on the subject on his blog.  After all, isn’t the way a suit fits most important?  Yes, but it’s only part of the answer.

A suit is not just another article of clothing.  A house may provide shelter, but four walls and a roof do not make a home.  For some, a well-made suit is all they require.  This austere choice is not without its advantages, and may be the only choice available.  If, however, your taste prefers it and budget allows it, do explore your options.  Make no mistake: the characteristic lapel roll of a particular maker may not add to a suit’s durability, but it does add something.  What is it you value?  Is it the fact that it was cut by a human?  Is the unique style and cut of the garment reflective of your own distinctive tastes?  Do you regard craftsmanship in high regard?  Does the manufacturer’s insistence on handwork reflect your own sensibilities?  Do you appreciate having a personal relationship with a tailor who can create a perfectly fitting garment that you yourself had a hand in designing?
If all you require is a suit that covers your body, go to a thrift store.  If you’re looking for something well-made, with a particular style, by hand, get ready to pay for all three.