How to Choose a Pocket Square

Are you a pro-pocket square person? Perhaps you’ve heard that they are the cheapest way to “upgrade” your wardrobe, but you’re hesitant. You feel safe in your white shirt, navy suit, and black shoes, and while you’ve seen them on other guys, and even liked one or two, you could never see yourself wearing one. Maybe it’s because you don’t want to call attention to yourself. You’re wary of getting into uncertain territory, and after all, a pocket square serves no real practical purpose.

On the other hand, you may have completely lost your mind and gone square crazy, spending as much on them as you would for a well-made suit. You’ve bought untold folds of squares in every color of the rainbow. You even have a division of solids, designs and patterns, cottons and linens, woolen and silk. And why not? Most are dirt cheap, even if you splurge on one, you won’t be dropping much more than a Benjamin.

Let’s assume for a moment that you are a balanced individual that enjoys classic menswear and wishes to appear like someone who cares, but not fastidiously so. You’ve seen pictures of old Hollywood stars or various gentlemen throughout the past 100 years and admired how some of them can pull off the pochette. You’ve considered getting one; you may even have a few. How do you wear it without looking like you’ve consulted an article – like this one?
Many how-to’s have been written; often peppered with precision diagrams, architectural blueprints, and earnest cries to wear a pocket square in order to defend the dapper man’s heritage. This is not one of those articles. In fact, it should be said that it is better to wear no pocket square at all than to wear an ill-chosen one, and let’s face it: most pocket squares are hideous. Rather, we’ll showcase some of how some of Styleforum’s own members wear them, and learn from their example.


Our first member to showcase is @Pliny. I’ve always liked how his outfits combine differing scales of pattern, even though I maintain he takes horrible pictures of his successes. Let’s look at a few examples.

When wearing a small-scale gunclub jacket, a pocket square with a large design keeps things from looking too busy. Notice how the mostly cream color of the two complement the jacket, shirt, and tie in both ensembles. These are perfect examples of how well these types of pocket squares work with practically any combination of coat and tie, including, as Pliny demonstrates above, a solid grey suit.

 


Next up we have @TTO, of whom I wish the forum saw more. His creative nod to vintage style may not be to everyone’s taste, but it is always refreshing.

One of the regular pitfalls of the pocket square is wearing one that doesn’t contrast enough with the jacket you’ve chosen. TTO wisely opts for bold white stripes to set his square apart and still echo the light shade of his blue shirt.


Finally, we have Mr. Six, who always has a small sliver of good taste stuffed into his breast pocket. Although not always in solid suits, these two pictures showcase how even in a conservative environment one can enjoy pocket squares without resorting to absurd designs or obnoxious colors.

 

 

In both pictures, Mr.Six has chosen a square that contrasts with his jacket, either lighter or darker. Far from standing out, the luminance of the pocket square in the first photo harmonizes well with the shirt, and the dark colors of the pocket square in the second echo his tie.


Pocket squares, more than most other items in a man’s wardrobe, are difficult to wear well. The ideal pocket square choice neither adds nor takes away from an ensemble, and is instead a harmonious but not attention-grabbing element of the outfit. Far from being detrimental, such choices are in fact a good thing. The components of an outfit should look as though the wearer carelessly threw them together in such a way that nothing matches but everything complements; neither too studied nor too heterogenous. Admittedly, this is more of an art than science, but there are a few guidelines that can help you chose a pocket square that at the very least jives with the rest of your outfit, if not a slam dunk:

  • Silk is always a correct choice, but shun overly shiny squares. You don’t want iridescence to blind onlookers and take their eyes away from your gleaming smile.
  • Solid-colored silk squares are bad, except perhaps in cream. White linen or cotton is far better, and is by far the most versatile pocket square you can own. Really, if a plain white linen or cotton pocket square won’t work, you’re better off with no square at all.
  • Try to contrast the square with the color and brightness of your jacket, as well as with the scale of the patterns in your outfit.
  • Avoid pocket squares with the same pattern as your tie to keep from looking too calculated.
  • Don’t succumb to the interweb’s love of the pocket square explosion. That’s just a stylist’s way of quickly stuffing the fabric into a mannequin’s breast pocket. Keep the puff politely subdued and prevent your points from peacocking.

These above pictures are just a handful of the many good examples of pocket squares you can find on the forum. There’s an entire thread devoted to them, and many users are happy to go into even further depth, including seasonality and fabric choice. The perfect pochette can subtly enliven and enrich your ensemble, but choose unwisely and you may look overly affected and foppish.

Really, at the end of the day, it’s just a useless piece of fabric, and if no one noticed your square, you have claimed a victory.

Mastering Complex Patterns

“Creativity is more than just being different. Anybody can play weird– that’s easy. What’s hard is to be as simple as Bach. Making the simple complicated is commonplace–making the complicated simple, awesomely simple–that’s creativity.”  – Charles Mingus

In today’s post-slacker world, just wearing coat and tie is enough to turn heads in many environments.  Sadly, in response to the incessant thundering appeal to “stand out,” men are blindly throwing together so many unrelated #menswear trends and patterns under the misguided siren call to “be original” that the resulting stew of glen plaids, gingham checks, candy stripes, and polka dots would make even Andrea Bocelli vomit. 

If that’s what you’re shooting for, more power to you; but do not delude yourself into thinking a random salmagundi of patterns is an expression of your creativity.   Many confuse “individuality” with “creativity”, but there is a difference: the aim of individuality is to be “different” by bucking convention.  The genius of creativity is taking something complex and making it appear simple. 

Charles Mingus released one of his best-known albums, Ah Um, the same year that Miles Davis released Kind of Blue.  Both, now over 50 years old, are premier examples of how complexity can be done well.  Indeed, despite the fact that up to six instruments played a part in each song, note the recurring concept that keeps appearing in critics’ reviews:

“Simplicity – the reason Kind of Blue has remained so successful for so long.”npr.org

“…one of the many amazing things about Mingus Ah Um is that he took this incredibly challenging jazz, in perhaps its creative heyday, and made it as easy as pop music.” – Bob Lange

“All of the contributions…only served to illuminate Miles’ zen-like approach on this record that relied on simplicity.” – allaboutjazz.com

This concept was by no means new.  Over 100 years earlier, none other than Chopin himself opined: “Simplicity is the final achievement. After one has played a vast quantity of notes and more notes, it is simplicity that emerges as the crowning reward of art.”

Can this concept be applied to #menswear?  Yes, it can, in two ways:  One instrument at a time; or if many, they must harmonize.


One pattern

One pattern is easy – choose one and keep the rest solid. Non si può sbagliare. 

If more than one pattern, the scale of each must harmonize via contrast.  Think of it this way:  The items that are closest to each other should be dissimilar in scale; your ensemble should not look too busy.  If your jacket has a large pattern, the shirt’s pattern should be smaller.  If the shirt’s pattern is small, the tie’s pattern should be large.  If you decide to wear a pocket square, its scale should differ from the jacket.


Two patterns

In the first example, Mark Cho wears a suit with a large pattern, while his tie has a small pattern. Same with the second picture – large windowpane suit, small scale “neat” tie. The third example showcases the reverse: small scale gunclub jacket paired with a tie that has stripes spaced far apart. 


Three Patterns

Three patterns can be done relatively easily: anchor your ensemble with a solid suit, make the shirt and tie in differing scales, and throw in a patterned pocket square. The first two pictures demonstrate this well. 

Once you throw in a patterned jacket things can get tricky, but the following photos demonstrate how it can be done. In the first, Ethan is wearing a gunclub jacket (small repeated scale), a neat tie (in a slightly larger scale with more space in between the print), and a square with a large scale, dissimilar to the jacket. The next picture has Jake in a pinstripe jacket with quite a bit of space, a tie with less space, and a shirt with closely spaced stripes. 


Four Patterns

Not impossible, but the risks of appearing fastidiously studied or a chaotic cacophony should give one pause. Simply changing the scale can have too many lines crossing every which way in a dizzying mess.  To limit this effect, try introducing shapes and prints into your accessories, such as a medallion tie or paisley square.

 

Note that in all cases, the colors are not garish.  If one pattern stands out more than the other, it is not so disparate as to look either out of place or forced. Whether simple or complex, everything should just…flow easily.  Stephen Thomas Erlewine of allmusic.com sums it up by saying:  “Kind of Blue works on many different levels. It can be played as background music, yet it amply rewards close listening. It is advanced music that is extraordinarily enjoyable.”

Standing out is easy; just wear red shoelaces.  Don’t just be different.  Be creative by making the complicated simple.  Make Mingus proud.

Photos courtesy of Alan See, the Armoury LightboxEthan Newton, and No Man Walks Alone

Accessorizing with Dogs: A How-To

There has long existed an association between tiny, handbag-friendly dogs and the fashion elite, but there is more to the art of accessorizing with dogs than a chihuahua in a purse.  For everyone who shares a home – even briefly – with a four-legged companion, the question has always been: how can I maximize my dog-outfit synergy?

The first consideration is, of course, the breed. Dogs such as border collies naturally pair well with workaday or outdoor clothing: consider Engineered Garments, Battenwear, or Nigel Cabourn, as all of these brands perform admirably even when covered with hair. A bulldog can complement both vaguely-sleezy 70’s inspired menswear as well as 3-piece suits of heavy tweed , whereas a Borzoi may lend itself best to a fan of the Antwerp Six. Devotees to the house of Marc Jacobs will, of course, love bull terriers, whereas advocates of quirky menswear will be quick to point to Menswear Dog  as an example of why Shiba Inus make the perfect stylistic companion. Some dogs are as versatile as a navy blazer – Welsh Corgis, for example, go with just about anything.

Don’t be too concerned, however, as any dog can be the perfect match for their wearer’s peculiar clothing choices, and mixes often show the most aesthetic versatility. Take, for example, my good friend @konorobu‘s predilection for combining Rick Owens and Carol Christian Poell with his small and adorable adopted friend. This, of course, is additionally powerful due to the inherent gap-moe of the combination; or the charm of contradictory habits or personality traits. If you’re a man in a power suit, consider a Pomeranian. If you’re wearing head-to-toe Acronym, a Lhasa Apso will provide a well-groomed counterpoint to your edgy, apocalypse-ready exterior. There is no reason to feel pigeonholed in your wardrobe choices when accessorizing with dogs – experiment with outfits to see what works best with your companion. I favor a pair of adopted Shiba Inus, as I find the coloration and temperament lends itself nicely to indigo-dyed streetwear and the occasional jacket and trousers.

The second consideration is fur type and coloration. When accessorizing with dogs, it’s important to take note of ideal color combinations. Keep in mind that black-and-white is not the be-all, end-all of a fashionable companion. High-fashion aficionados will find that the black-and-tan of a Bernese Mountain Dog will go nicely with a monochrome look, and the subtle tones of a Blue Heeler will bring out the best in any colorful outfit. Texture is a secondary aspect; brushed tweeds go equally well with shaggy or shiny coats, and light linens and cottons are a perfect match for both high-fuzz-factor dogs as well as adorably soft and tiny companions.

Ultimately, there is no end to the number of ways you can accessorize with dogs. The fashionable options are limitless, especially when the personality of the dog in question is taken into consideration. Beyond the purely aesthetic advantages that dogs confer, there are innumerable health benefits that come from living with them. Ten out of ten doctors now recognize that accessorizing with dogs results in lower blood pressure, more Instagram likes, a higher sex drive, and funnier jokes1. This should not be taken lightly – for any of you who are struggling with wardrobe direction or how to maximize your swag levels, a dog can provide the boost you need to hone in on your style.

There are now multiple apps that allow users to rent dogs. Dogs of all shapes and sizes, from the tiny and yappy to the huge and drooling. Some of these apps are geared towards people who want to test the waters before adopting their own new best friend; others are designed as social meet-up or even dating tools. And ever better, your local Humane Society will have all kinds of dogs for you to meet, love, and even take home with you. Just make sure that you’re doing your homework before you take the plunge, because there’s nothing more un-chic than being a bad dog owner. If you’re diligent in your search, I’m sure you’ll find a companion, and I’m sure you won’t regret it – because all along, the best accessory to a happy life and a happy wardrobe is a doggy friendship.


  1. This is completely fabricated.
  2. Cover photo credit: Arianna Reggio

Chelsea Boots for All the People

Just to catch you up if you’ve been living under a rock for the last year or so, the Chelsea boot, with it’s characteristic double elastic gores, has been the footwear du jour.  Without fear of jumping on the bandwagon really late, I’m going to endorse them.

Kanye is probably to thank for the popularity of the style for some younger and some more Kanye influenced wearers, and Common Projects should probably be on their knees, thanking Yeezus for putting their lightweight, crepe soled version (in the sand color) on waiting lists for the entire FW15 season.

Putting aside debates about Kanye’s cultural significance, chelsea boots have been a staple in closets of well-dressed men (and women) since the Victorian era, when they were made for the Queen herself before eventually finding their way into men’s closets. Now, they are perhaps best remembers as a staple in the UK’s mod scene in the 1960s, which has seen something of a revival as of late. They also gave birth to the the pointy-toed, Cuban-heeled Beatle Boot variation, but weather with low heels or high, the easy on-off comfort has made the chelsea beloved of the sleek ‘n trim streetwear set – led by you-know-who. They’re a natural extension of the skinny side-zip that has been quite popular for several years, and most makers streetwear makers are pursuing similarly streamlined silhouettes.

On the other end of the style spectrum, Blundstone’s rugged (guaranteed for life!) snub-toed, thick-soled version of the style has been a staple among Australia’s outdoors-minded set since the Victorian era as well. While not exactly elegant, that was never the purpose – and if elegance is what you desire, you can still find plenty of classic shapes from brands such as Alfred Sargent, Carmina, and others. Guidi, beloved of every dark-goth-romantic-bohemian-ninja, also makes an object-dyed chelsea boot, should you wish to trade your well-heeled Victorian footwear mores for a rougher look.

So, at this very odd intersection in menswear history, outdoorsmen, dandies, gothy-ninjas, and of course Kanye fans, are all endorsing the same style of boot.

My pick of the bunch is Epaulet’s Chelsea. That’s because it’s a lot more versatile than other examples. Epaulet’s quality and construction have always been top-notch, and the leather on this pair is a lustrous steerhide that achieves the improbably feat of going with everything. In addition, the last is neither Blundstone-blobby or Yeezy-narrow, so you can wear them with jeans or casual trousers. Plus, crepe soles are really, really comfortable. These were initially a pre-order, but there are a few pairs still available on Epaulet’s website. Although I own a pair in “sand suede,” I think this “Cuoro Como” model is a fantastic buy for anyone looking for a comfortable, stylish boot. They’re only $325, too – which is a really good deal.

You can find your own pair here.

 

Building a Wardrobe: The Brown Blazer

The brown blazer is one of the most simultaneously well-known and unknown wardrobe foundations. Well-known amongst those who know, and unknown amongst those who don’t. As you start putting together a tailored wardrobe, you’ll read thousands of articles and have hordes of people telling you that the one thing you must buy, the one thing without which no man’s life is complete, is a navy blazer. I disagree. Unless you are intent on cultivating an Ivy wardrobe, a navy blazer is no more a “necessity” than a pair of penny loafers. Allow me to suggest a brown blazer instead. Here’s why:

Although the above gallery illustrates my points for me, I will write them out here for the sake of completion. Fundamentally, while a navy blazer is undeniably a wardrobe staple, the brown blazer shines in all the same ways a navy blazer does, but has the edge in a few areas:

  1. A brown blazer can be worn with navy trousers. Seriously, this is so important. Navy is a fantastic color for trousers, and if you’re stuck with a closet full of navy blazers you might be straight SOL. But navy trousers open up a world of fantastic possibility, and in my opinion a navy trouser with a brown jacket on top looks far superior to a brown trouser with a navy jacket on top.
  2. A brown blazer often looks better with jeans than a navy blazer. While not always true, this is worth considering. Especially since, if you are really building a wardrobe, you probably want a jacket that you can wear with denim. After all, you already have a suit for interviews – right?
  3. A brown blazer looks better with grey trousers than a navy blazer. Well, that’s certainly subjective, and you’re free to disagree. However, I do think that a blue blazer and grey trousers can make the wearer look a bit like a security guard, and a brown blazer certainly doesn’t have this connotation. In any case, it will look just as good as a navy blazer.
  4. Finally, a brown blazer will make you look like you know what you’re doing. Any high schooler can put on a navy blazer for “special occasions,” but graduating to a brown variant suggests that you’ve put thought into your wardrobe choices – and putting thought into your wardrobe is the foundation of personal style, regardless of the direction you take. You’ll stand out, in a good way.

See where I’m going with this? A brown blazer fulfills all the necessary duties of its navy sibling, but does even more for the wearer. If I haven’t been able to convince you, take a look at this thread, or this one, both full of some of Styleforum’s best-dressed members, and count the number of brown blazers you see.

This is by no means to suggest that a navy blazer is a bad choice or poor investment – quite the contrary. However, if you are just starting out on your clothing journey, a brown blazer may well give you more versatility than a navy blazer. And if you’re a seasoned Classic Menswear veteran who’s looking to branch out – well, at the very least a brown blazer will keep you from winding up with a closet filled entirely with navy jackets.

Choosing Leather Gloves

If you’re wondering how to pick out a pair leather gloves this fall, don’t worry – you’re not alone. The Glove (note the capitalization) has become a necessary element of the #menswear wardrobe, and no one at Pitti would be caught dead without them – I imagine that’s true even during the summertime. But it’s likely that you’ll be doing more than just posing on the Pitti Wall this fall and winter, so take some time to think about what best fits your needs.

The first step is to determine when and where you’ll be wearing your gloves. This may come as a shock, but not everyone lounges around looking cool and doing nothing with gloves stuffed into their overcoat pocket as a purely aesthetic accessory. If you’re outside 3 hours a day, you’ll probably want something soft and warm. If you’re only “outside” in the garage, getting in and out of your car, you probably don’t want or need something with a thick lining.

Same goes for the temperature: if you live in a temperate climate, you probably don’t need shearling gloves. If you live in Maine, you probably do. And if you live in a 4-season location, having a couple of pairs of gloves can mean comfy hands for almost half the year. I start wearing mine around November, because even if it’s still warm during the day, I ride a bicycle regularly and chilly mornings mean that my hands go numb.  With that said, let’s take a look at some of the ways you can keep your fingly-dinglies nice and toasty.

  1. Unlined Leather Gloves

    Pros: These are ideal when it’s not too cold out, or when you’re looking for a pair of gloves to wear when you’re driving. I dislike driving in thick gloves, especially when driving a manual, as it does become harder to operate nobs and switches and even gear-levers. Otherwise, an unlined glove – especially a driving glove – is a fantastic look that can work with most casual or tailored outfits. In addition, I find that these lighter-weight accessories really lend themselves to interesting colors, which means that if you want driving gloves in British racing green you should absolutely get yourself some.

    Cons: Obviously, they’re not as warm as a lined glove. In addition, you have to be a bit more mindful of fit, as you want the leather to fit close to the hand for maximum feel. Having a too-large unlined glove feels bad, whereas you can often get away with a less exact fit when wearing a lined glove. In addition, if the glove is of poor quality, the seems inside may bother your hands. And finally, you simply may not enjoy the feel of unlined leather, which can occasionally make your hands feel clammy.

     

  2. Lined Leather Gloves


    Pros: Depending on the lining, these gloves can either be pleasantly warm or fireplace-hot. Linings come in various forms and materials, so make sure you know what you’re getting. The three most common varieties are leather gloves that have been lined with a knit or woven fabric or wool, cashmere, or a blend of some kind; gloves lined in soft fur, and shearling gloves.

     

    1. Fabric-lined gloves are thinner but still warm, but I have had linings tear in the past, meaning they’re not exactly fit for yard work. That’s probably not why you’re buying them, but still – it pays to do your homework
    2. Fur-lined gloves are incredibly luxurious, soft, and warm – but they tend to be thicker, making them less fit for driving, and they can also be quite fragile if you’re using your hands for anything but carrying a briefcase. Fur can and will wear out over time, and while a pair of nice gloves will certainly last you a long while, you might want to take care that you’re not shoveling snow in your nicest pair.
    3. Shearling gloves are perhaps the warmest and most resilient, but also the thickest. In addition, take care that the “shearling” gloves you’re buying aren’t just lined in knit sheepswool. While shearling gloves will wear out over time (imagine your favorite pair of sheepskin slippers), they’re generally long-lasting and tough-wearing, and a bit more casual in appearance than the first two options.

Cons: Well, lined gloves are warm. That might not be what you want. And the thicker the glove, the more difficult it is to use your fingers precisely. Operating zippers and closing buttons becomes mildly more difficult, but if it’s really cold out, a lined glove – especially fur-lined or shearling – is hard to go without.

Finally, in my experience it’s worth it to spend a bit more on a pair you like. You’ll find passable examples at the mall, but they’ll run you 80-120$ anyway, and stepping up to a pair of fine gloves will make you a happy camper. Not only will you get access to more comfortable and resilient hides and linings, but nice gloves have an heirloom feel to them. Once a favorite pair is properly broken in, they feel like a second skin.

 

The Quilted Blazer: An Ideal Autumn Garment

A quilted blazer is, as you may have guess from its inclusion in yesterday’s outfit grid, one of my favorite autumn layers. Although it’s an unmistakably casual piece, it’s still a “step up” from a knit blazer or cardigan – depending on what you end up with, of course – and can fulfill a variety of roles. That’s because these pieces range from the technical to the luxurious, making them a good item to look out for regardless of which way your wardrobe skews. And, like a true sport coat, most can be worn with either trousers or denim. While they’re unlikely to pass muster at a board meeting or at an occasion where conservative dress is required, they’re fit for most other engagements – provided the weather is cool enough, because in most cases, the quilting works.

The quilted blazer can be found at vendors ranging from JCPenney to Brunello Cucinelli, which means that you have a lot of options if you’re looking to add to your wardrobe. Thom Browne does a number of these, both for his own line and for Moncler, but a quick Yoox search will yield a host of options. If you’re interested in a technical offering, it’s become relatively easy to find a quilted nylon example, although you’ll have to make sure you’re not winding up with something that will fall apart after a single wear. That is, usual quality standards apply. I think that a good streetwear fallback would be this piece, from Apolis – it certainly skews towards the very casual, but that doesn’t mean it would look out of place with a pair of smart-but-casual chinos or trousers. 

It’s also possible to find quilted blazers more in the vein of these examples from Brooks Brothers and Thom Brown. Wool, as opposed to Nylon; cut more like a traditional sport coat, and more fitting four trousers and (maybe) a tie. Examples in this latter category can get pricey quickly, as you can find all sorts of lovely fabrics. This is the sort I like, as the natural materials used for the shell makes them quite versatile. That is, you don’t have to wear denim to look natural, but you don’t have to wear creased pants either. Here are a few examples of this look, ranging in formality. 

My preference is definitely for the non-nylon look. Those are very handy, but they’re much less versatile, and you really run the risk of looking “cheap.” I’d go for a quilted natural material. My own example comes from ts(s), and works just fine with whatever I choose to put on my body. It feels like cheating, really.

Now, doing a quick internet search for the quilted sport coat makes one thing very clear: people have no idea when or how to wear them. This depends, of course, on what you’ve chosen. If it’s a technical garment, any type of jean or chino will work just fine. If it’s a more luxurious garment, the world is your oyster. And as for “when” – well, if you think of your quilted blazer as a piece of light outerwear rather than a sport coat, it will start to make more sense. Wear it as you would a heavy cardigan, wear it as you would a standard sport coat – wear it with shorts if you want to. Once the weather dips below 60F, my own quilted blazer sees almost more use than any other piece of light outerwear in my closet. I’m sure that you’ll be able to put it to good use if you’re willing to give it a shot.

quilted blazer

My own ts(s) quilted blazer, from No Man Walks Alone

I do have some final tips. First, you’ll probably want to forego the tie. I’d wager that a knit tie could work nicely with one of these, and Thom Brown has often showed his with narrow-ish neckwear; but as I’ve already said, I’d be inclined to think of this as a piece of light outerwear. Can you wear a tie? Yeah, sure. But it might not look entirely natural. Second, experiment with knitwear. In yesterday’s outfit grid, we showed a quilted blazer with a roll-neck sweater. I swear by this look. A turtleneck under a quilted jacket looks fantastic, and I’ll fight you if you say otherwise. You can certainly try a thin cardigan, or simply a heavy oxford cloth shirt, depending on the weather. And third, don’t be afraid to mix up what you’re wearing with it. Layer underneath it, wear it with jeans, wear it with creased trousers – a quilted blazer is more versatile than your standard sport coat, so don’t feel restricted. Embrace fall, and embrace the quilted blazer – you’ll be happy you did, because when you put one on it feels like wearing a marshmallow.

Embrace Transitional Layering

Transitional layering is one of the greatest pleasures that menswear has to offer, but it’s also a source of a surprising amount of difficulty for a surprising number of men. It’s understandable, really – we’re bombarded with heavy outerwear and beach-ready clothing, and you have to look to find the stuff that falls in between, as plentiful as it is.

We’re big fans of light outerwear at Styleforum, and while a leather jacket, M-65, or other option worn over a shirt and maybe a sweater is a simple way to win at life, there are more interesting ways to layer. Let’s go over a few of them.

  1. Wear Two Shirts at Once

    Seriously. Well, not two normal shirts; @Conceptual_4est wrote a great article on the Shacket last year, and his advice on the matter is still relevant. A shirt-jacket can be worn alone, or under a heavier parka should the weather already have turned on you. Denim or canvas workshirts also do well at this, especially if they’re noticeably thicker than your standard button-up. I haven’t tried one myself, but Styleforum affiliate Yellowhook is making some denim workshirts that would work for this. Otherwise, Evan Kinori, about whom I’ve written before, does a good field shirt; and I happen to have a flannel, pocketed variety from Cloak. This is also one of those pieces you can find at LL Bean or the like, although they’ll be of a different, Bean-ier variety. Note that this is specifically casual – wearing two shirts under a sportcoat probably isn’t going to go over that well – literally and figuratively.

  2. Put a Jacket Under Your Jacket

    It doesn’t have to be a shacket, either. It’s really easy to slip the ever-present chore jacket under your outerwear, but there’s other stuff that can work as a midlayer. Say, a knit jacket that’s cut like a blazer. And a sport coat can be certainly be worn under a field jacket or hunting jacket. Nifty, no?

  3. Are you a Cardi-can, or a Cardi-can’t?

    The cardigan is the perfect transitional layer. If you’re wearing a suit or sportcoat, you can wear a thin merino cardigan under your jacket as a warmer stand-in for a waistcoat.  If you’re putting together a casual outfit, you can easily substitute a heavy cardigan (say, the perennial favorites from SNS Herning, or perhaps a cowichan) for a jacket. This works with both denim and with trousers, as the buttoned (or zipped – FULL zips, please) front makes the knit look a bit more like a jacket, and tends to lend a more flattering silhouette to the wearer than a sweater would.


  4. Vestos are the Bestos

    By vest, I don’t mean that you have to wear North Face puffer the way you do when you’re raking leaves or otherwise living the suburban dream. In fact, it doesn’t have to be made of nylon at all. There are some really cool insulated (and not) vest options from a whole host of makers, and it’s worth your time to check them out. Vests are super handy, and although I can’t endorse the Instagram hero vest-over-blazer look, I’ll happily wear a vest over a more casual garment, such as the aforementioned shacket, chore jacket, or cardigan.

I can’t really think of anything for number 5, but my main point here is that you don’t have to resort to a grey sweatshirt or a heavier sport coat for autumn. Nor do you have to immediately fall into a rotating uniform of light jackets, as I’m certainly guilty of doing. Experiment with colors, silhouettes, and textures. More importantly, experiment with layers of various weights, because autumn can be fickle and proper layering is the key to staying comfortable.

What to Expect from Bespoke

So you’ve decided to “go bespoke.”  Great!  From now on, everything you commission should be perfect, right?

I decided to ask some of StyleForum’s members to elaborate on their bespoke experiences to give the “n00b” an idea of what to expect during the first (and hopefully continuing) foray into bespoke.  Their combined familiarity helps create a balanced prospective of what one should be looking for during the process.

Granted, it may take some time before finding a tailor that suits your needs.  Forum member @Slewfoot, AKA David Beckwith of Grand Cru Wine Consulting, had tried several tailors before he found his current favorite: Steed.  “A big reason I settled on them was seeing all the amazing photographs of their work online.  Additionally,  many people on StyleForum and London Lounge that I trust use them regularly.”

Once at the tailor’s shop (or at a traveling tailor’s temporary shop space), what do you ask?  Indeed, where do you even start?  David continues: 

“I think it’s a very good idea to take the long term approach to the relationship with your tailor. At the beginning you are really getting to know one another. You’re getting a feel for making sure you all are on the same page aesthetically and philosophically. The first handful of items you get from a tailor you all carefully discuss the specifics of the fit and details, but after a while much of that becomes second nature and you then just do tweaks here and there depending on the specific garment at hand.”

Andy Poupart, known as @Andy57, on StyleForum concurs:

“My first suits came out fine, but that first commission was also a learning experience for me.  What I didn’t know to ask about were the many stylistic and detailed choices that one can make when commissioning a garment. Since then, I have come to know such things as I almost always want a ticket pocket, I want at least two narrow inside breast pockets for my reading glasses, I don’t want belt loops on my trousers, nor do I want rear pockets or a coin pocket in the waistband.”

During the process, the learning curve for both client and tailor can leave certain details to chance.  What happens then?  @Manton recalls one such incident: 

“I once ordered a dinner jacket, as a double breasted shawl collar, and I thought the lapel buttonhole should be angled up, as is typical on a double breasted jacket.   In this instance the tailor angled it down, as on a single breasted jacket. I was sort of miffed at first, but I solved the problem by always wearing a flower in the lapel.”

Small tweaks are to be expected, even after the initial commission.  However, the process does get easier with time.  David explains:

“I used to overthink things too much when I was first getting into it. At first, it’s like re-doing a room in your house – you’re presented with dozens of options for paint and drapes, and  start running around in circles. These days I just let my gut take over and make much faster decisions. One thing I’ve noticed that’s a big help is physically seeing the fabric in person first. Holding it in your hands, you often suddenly get hit with how the finished garment will come out. You inherently know that patch pockets will be great for this fabric or that this suit should be a 3-piece vs a double breasted kind of thing.”

After multiple commissions, @Manton agrees: “As I’ve gained experience with bespoke, I’ve streamlined the process.  I just say, “Just say “Single or double-breasted, two piece or three,” and let them do their thing.”

Take your time to get to know your tailor. Trust them to do what they do best, and trust yourself to make the choices that are best for you. Oh, and try not to overthink it!

5 Stand-Out Takes on the White Court Shoe

The white court shoe has taken its place atop the throne of the sneaker world following the rise of the Stan Smith. The latter is now (still!) found on the feet of half the people at any trade show, with only mild competition from Adidas’ shell-toe and three stripe options. But if you’re looking for a simple, good-looking sneaker, there are many brands that offer pleasing design – and, let’s face it, a price that makes Common Projects Achilles look like a joke. Here are 5 white court shoes that you can wear all through the winter – and for a long time to come.


  1. Greats “Royale”

    Photo: Greats


    Luxury court shoes are nothing new, but we all know that Common Projects are no longer the must-have they once were. Greats’ take on the classic design is a little bulkier, a little cushier, and little less ubiquitous (and who doesn’t enjoy a bit of rarity with their sneakers?). The suede models are stand-outs, and will look great with worn-in raw denim or even casually-worn trousers.  And at 1/4 the price of CP’s, what’s not to like?119$, Greats.com


  2. Adidas Stan Smith Primeknit OG pk

    Photo: SSENSE

    What would a list of tennies be without at least one variation on the original? Adidas has updated its classic Stan Smith silhouette with a primeknit upper that offers breathable comfort and keeps you from looking like the rest of the fashion-obsessed sneakerheads out there. And since we’ve reached – and passed – peak Stan Smith saturation, a slight re-config means that you can wear these without feeling self-conscious. Although you can find Primeknit Stans at several retailers, this OG-pack version has a different knit and a slightly lower profile than the all-leather model, but pairs equally well with denim or slim black trousers (yeah, yeah – we see you, fashion week attendees).

    Best part? The added airflow means your feet will stink less.

    130$, ssense.com


  3. Common Projects Court Low
    Photo: Need Supply

    Photo: Need Supply


    Instead of going for the by now ubiquitous Achilles, spend those hard-earned dollars on the CP Court Low instead. We’re big on suede sneakers for a bit of added character, and this even-more-minimal take on the tennis shoe is perfect for fall. Stack your jeans on top of the low cuff, roll ’em up, or even wear a pair of (gasp!) shorts. Common Projects is really the original luxe sneaker brand, and they’ve stayed relevant for a reason.

    435$, NeedSupply.com


  4. Ann Demeulemeester Suede Low-Top

    Photo: FWRD



    While not exactly a court shoe (they’re more of a take on the venerable Converse), these suede low-tops nonetheless offer a great alternative to your standard tennis shoe. They’re much more versatile than the brand’s die-hard fans would have you believe, and are equally at home with head-to-toe Ann D. or a rolled-up pair of Engineered Garments BDU pants. The suede upper takes on added character with wear, and well-read forumites will know to ask their cobbler about adding a Vibram (or other rubber) outsole for increased longevity and grip. At this point, they’re a modern classic.

    830$, fwrd.com


  5. Filling Pieces “Low Top Tabs White”

    Photo: Filling Pieces

    Looking for a little more flash from your court shoe? Streetwear brand Filling Pieces could be right up your alley. This take on their classic Tabs low top adds a gum sole and toe-cap perforation for a does of athletic style. Prices, while firmly upmarket, aren’t Givenchy-high, which means you’ll have some cash left over for a fancy pair of sweatpants. Long live athleisure!

    EUR240, Fillingpieces.com