A Cream Suit for Summer with @Andy57

We’ve featured @Andy57 before, and always admire the ease he brings to tailored clothing. We also think he brings impressive panache to daily life, in a way that we could all learn from. He’s also the resident master of the cream jacket – whether as part of a suit or worn separately – so take notes. We asked him to detail his signature summer look: the outfit he returns to during the warmer months, and why he enjoys wearing it. 


I would say that my signature summer look, such as it is, would be the cream or ivory linen suit. It’s a look I’ve been iterating on for several years, learning a little from each attempt.

My first foray into wearing a cream suit was a three-piece Brooks Brothers off-the-rack linen suit. As I wore it I started to realize that there were fit issues that I couldn’t ignore and style issues that bothered me increasingly. My second effort was also from Brooks Brothers, and was a jacket and matching trousers from their “Gatsby” collection from a few years ago. I preferred the style, but it was made from a herringbone linen. I have found herringbone linen to be too soft to make successfully into trousers that can keep their shape even slightly.

About a year ago I purchased a suit length of a Fox Brothers vintage bolt in a very lightweight ivory worsted wool cloth. I had this made into a lovely double-breasted suit that I wore extensively last summer. As nice as it is, and it is still in heavy use during the warmer months, I still wanted that cream linen look that I had in my mind’s eye.

Finally, last winter I bought a suit length of a London Lounge heavy Irish linen, in a rich cream color and had it made into another double-breasted suit. Finally I have a linen suit made from cloth heavy enough that it does not wrinkle, it keeps its shape and has that perfect summer vibe to it.

I’ve worn it with a shirt and tie, but my preferred look is to wear it with a Marol shirt with their “holiday” collar, which has that perfect roll and can only be worn open, having no collar button. Worn with spectator shoes, a cravat, and complimentary pocket square, I have my signature summer look.


Editor’s take: when made up in linen, a cream suit really hits the perfect summer note.  It’s also particularly versatile in the warmer months, when it can be worn during the day or at night (although we feel @Andy57 would be inclined to put on a dinner jacket).  And, as it is definitely not a conservative or business-ready color, cream garments encourage wearing for pleasure. 

Want more great cream suits? Follow Andy on Instagram.

A Talk with Allan Baudoin of Baudoin and Lange

Allan Baudoin is a London-based bespoke shoemaker. He is also one half of the team behind Baudoin and Lange, the ready-to-wear offshoot of his bespoke atelier which focuses on production of the “Sagan” loafer. Baudoin and Lange is led by Allan Baudoin and Bo van Langeveld. In this article, Allan answered our questions about what led him to shoemaking as a young man, what he loves about it, and about his work at large – both as a bespoke shoemaker and with the Baudoin and Lange brand.

This article has been edited for length and clarity.


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Styleforum: On the Baudoin and Lange website, you go out of your way to mention that both of you come from backgrounds not related to shoemaking or even to menswear. How have these diverse perspectives influenced the growth of Allan Baudoin Bespoke and Baudoin & Lange?

Allan Baudoin: My “background” is in computer science and business. I did not train in shoemaking formally, but had to learn everything on the spot under the pressure of building a name and an income for me in the early days – this means that mistakes are only made once, and you get to touch a lot more of shoemaking than under an apprenticeship.
I had to quickly learn to manage artisans and make decision that went beyond my formal knowledge. In the end, intuition plays a great part in making shoes – that and experience – and luckily I instantly “clicked” with the craft and everything around it. For the first time, I was working on something that felt very natural for me, and I got better at the craft with each iteration to reach the level of knowledge required to launch into RTW with Baudoin & Lange.
Bespoke and RTW use different parts of the brain; a lot more planning is involved as volumes grow, but you always need that bespoke “practicality” to come up with innovative elements and ways of doing beautiful work with nothing. I think one important factor in the growth of B&L is the complementarity of the skills I have with Bo. We are the inverse of each other, and that works very well for running a business. Bo comes from a finance background, having worked in private equity, and is an ex-competitive driver. I don’t have a license, so that tells you a lot about how different we are. In the end, the best decisions are reached by compromise between our two mentalities.

SF: Are there aspects of bespoke shoemaking that you were intent on keeping in your RTW line, or that lended themselves particularly well to your project? Similarly, were there aspects of the bespoke process that you knew would not translate – or even be detrimental – to an RTW line?

AB: I think the lines and aesthetics of my RTW work are very similar to my bespoke, and I did transfer (and improved) on some bespoke shoemaking techniques from the latter to the former – such as brass nail decoration which is now on every pair we make as our logo.allan baudoin interview stylefourm baudoin lange styleforum interview
Of course, some aspects of bespoke have to be systematized to become viable for a RTW line. We still hand-last each pair entirely and close the shoes entirely by hand, but obviously some aspects – like blocking insoles by hand – make no sense in RTW. However, our insoles are still blocked and shaped to the last before lasting, so they do curve around the last – which is rare in RTW.
Many techniques that I learned in bespoke I removed on purpose from the RTW project of Baudoin and Lange. For example, a bespoke shoe has hard counters and toe puffs, uses calf and lining – our Sagan loafers are unlined and unconstructed,  which means they are very easy to fit compared to a normally constructed shoe. This translates into extreme comfort from the first use – by removing something akin to traditional bespoke shoemaking, you end up with the exact same result, and a very large part of our clients are bespoke shoe buyers.

SF: I’ve heard that before starting your shoemaking line you briefly worked at Apple, and referred to your time as “disillusioning.” Even so, are there aspects of working with a large company that you miss, or lessons you learned during your time there that you think are applicable to your current life as a shoemaker?

AB: That’s indeed true, you must have heard this from an early interview probably quite soon after I had left the corporate life and was working from a tiny 10-square-meter workshop out of east-London. I think I was really not wired to work in the kind of spaces and environment that most large companies offer. As a shoemaker, I probably did not take away anything from working in an office, but as a designer and new company owner I do owe a lot to my previous background in computer science and business school.
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I’ve always been inspired by Apple design and manufacturing principles. The amount of design work and lack of compromise that the ideas go through from inception to execution without being dropped is hugee, because at Apple only great design ideas make it to the finished product. The vision comes from the user experience designers and hardware designers first; the manufacturing team is there to make it happen no matter how hard or how much work has to be put in. It makes everything easier when the product is perfected beyond the competitions’ standards. I think that’s something we try to emulate at B&L – some features our customers need to have in their shoes – and we find ways to incorporate them, sometimes by going very different routes than what a standard shoe company would do.

SF: What was it about shoemaking in particular that appealed to you? Were there other crafts you found equally enjoyable?

AB: I’ve always wanted to know how shoes were made. I think that for me, this is the craft that uses the most of my strengths – touch and the eye. Touch, because it all starts with leathers, and to use the proper kind in the right application takes a lot of gauging, of imagining the properties of the piece you’re holding and figuring out how best to use it for this or this other purpose. The eye, because everything is always in progress while making shoes, and your eyes guide you through the many steps. There is so much checking involved when making shoes, and nothing works faster and better than a trained eye. Being observant is something one is born with, and for some reason I think I’ve unintentionally or intentionally scanned every person’s shoe I have ever seen since I can remember. It is so incredibly rare to see someone with beautiful shoes that fit them – it’s about knowing what works for you.allan baudoin interview stylefourm baudoin lange styleforum interview
Now that I know shoemaking (to a satisfying level, in my opinion), I start to see other crafts as more attainable – and now I want to make too many things! I got to know tailoring a bit from how close our industries are related, but I’ve never been fond of working with soft fabrics. I don’t know why, but how fragile and flimsy they seem to be to work with is something I can’t cope with.
I really like sanding and finishing things at the moment, and so the things I d like to learn for myself one day would probably be watch case making and knife making. I love both watches and knives so that would be useful things to make for myself and I same as for shoes, there are no watches design that I really crave in the market so perhaps I could do something there. For me, all crafts have become more and more fascinating and they all connect at some level. I feel really at home with makers; we have a common language I think.

SF:Can you tell us about the process by which you became involved with the London shoemaking scene? What drew you to the art? How long did it take you to think: “This is what I want to do?”
AB: It took me approximately one week to decide that I wanted to do this. I really just came out of nowhere, I knew nothing about shoemaking or making anything actually – but when I visited a shoemaker close to my apartment in East London everything changed. I was in a mental place at that time where I felt I could do anything, and that anything goes as long as you enjoy it (I had just come back from going to Burning Man in the desert of Nevada, so that did leave an impression on me, the way everybody there was sharing their “trip” to the fullest with absolutely no regard to judgment about it. There, anything goes; everybody comes to share what they are about and in such a beautiful and generous way that it is hard to describe in words what the experience is like.
allan baudoin interview stylefourm baudoin lange styleforum interview I knew absolutely no one in the industry or even in anything related to it, I was introduced to makers by going from workshop to workshop thanks to my laster, and I went on to discover every aspect of the craft by myself by spending time with artisans.
Then, the shoes that I had made at first for me, then my friends and my 1st and 2nd degree network, found their way to a wider audience thanks to social networks.  I did get to talk and meet people who really knew a lot of industry people – first in mind is meeting with Simon Crompton [of Permanent Style] – a guy I had no idea I’d get along with so well. I was not even a reader of any blogs before I met him for lunch one day with no other purpose than to say hi and talk shoes and craft (which seems the way we connect with anyone in this little world of ours). I really have to thank Simon for his help in getting the word out, he introduced my work to everybody he knew. Mark Cho [of The Armoury] has also been incredibly helpful and supportive from the first day he ordered shoes from us.

SF: It appears that the Sagan loafer began as a bespoke or MTO project. How did that come about? 
AB : The Sagan indeed came from the atelier, when I was in the need for a pair of easy to slip-on, all-day comfortable pair to wear around the workshop while making bespoke shoes. My clients and some industry people around me soon took notice and started buying them.
Actually, a lot of tailors and cutters on Savile Row were among my first customers because of how comfortable they are to wear in the workshop while standing, and how well they served and looked in front of customers – perhaps their patronage helped put them on the feet of the right people at the beginning. I still get emails from people telling me that their tailor has recommended them. Today we are stocked in a lot of specialized shops that carry great tailoring brands.

SF: Why did you want this to be your first RTW shoe, and why build an entire brand behind it? How do you see it being worn?

allan baudoin interview stylefourm baudoin lange styleforum interview AB: The idea is of a versatile, extremely comfortable loafer that can go with as many environments as possible in one pair of shoes; from evening wear to summer wear, home use, travel and every day use at the office.
I felt the Sagan really deserved to have an entire brand built around it, because the concept is a new and innovative one – it just needs explanation and focus. At B&L we only make Sagans, and that is how much we believe in the concept. This laser-focus on one product translates to quality of craft and service.
I think the product is very innovative for the industry and for the luxury shoe market in general. I think we’re creating our own space instead of finding a gap in the market. It takes time, but I don’t see other brand or makers as competition – I never have. Every pair is different in use, and I feel no other shoe can replace the Sagan.

SF:Baudoin and Lange is a very accessible brand. Many shoemakers go the other direction – why choose accessibility over exclusivity?

AB: Bespoke shoemakers choose exclusivity by default, because the way a bespoke shoe is made is simply not focused on price sensitivity or lead times. That makes the product very expensive and hard to get which is the definition of exclusivity. I do like the idea of a very small number of aficionados enjoying and recognizing the work that goes into my bespoke shoes – it is a passion that connects us.
However, I really don’t think a great product like the Sagan would benefit from such an approach. Our goal is to put as many great looking, comfortable shoes on the feet of people as possible, not just for a select few who can afford it. Many retailers have told us we could charge double what we do but that’s simply restricting ourselves to a smaller market for no real reason.

SF: Can you describe a bit of the “flow” of the creation and production process? I’m aware that you have several partners in the pattern-making and construction processes – can you walk us through the creation and production of a new shoe for the Allan Baudoin line? Does this differ for the Baudoin and Lange line?

AB: I have a pattern maker, a clicker, a closer, two lasters, and a finisher and we all work really well together. I’d say an AB and a BL shoe start exactly the same way and go through the exact same initial process, but the AB goes to only one customer and uses only one skin of leather, whereas the BLs have to made for a lot more people, which requires many more steps.

It all starts with the last. I usually make lasts myself from “unturned toe” wooden lasts, meaning the toe is left wide and rough, while the heel to the joint area are made to the specific measures I give my last “factory” in France.

A first last is made to do the pattern making. This last and pattern will most certainly be modified a few times to accommodate changes I want to make, which happen constantly – I think the Sagan pattern was remade at least 50 times to accommodate changes in leathers, lasts, insoles, and other tweaks.

allan baudoin interview stylefourm baudoin lange styleforum interview Parallel to that is the work in sourcing and tanning the leathers we use for soles, insoles, uppers, fitting, bindings, and other pieces – they are all made to our specification and color ways that I have chosen over time. I never use ready-made colors or articles (leathers have countless specs) – you just can’t ask a tannery to have the best taste in color or substance and texture.

I will usually spend a lot of time with my pattern maker and closer when making Sagans (a lot of the work is in the stitching of the upper and the fine design details of each variation), and with my lasters for MTM/Bespoke, as these are always made with different sole types and construction methods. I always quality check every shoe, bespoke and Sagan alike, that comes out of the atelier, to make sure they are made as well as possible. This also allows me to spot problems and constantly perfect the shoes.

Every batch we make is always better than the last one, as I tend to always spot new “imperfections” we can improve upon. I think the Sagan range is now very close to perfection, but we always come up with new things, so it is a never ending process. Perfection does not exist, only the perception of perfection – for a trained eye nothing is perfect. I’m pretty sure you could ask any bespoke shoemaker if they are happy with their last work, and they will say “No” regardless of how perfect it looks to the outside world. We know exactly how good the shoes are, and that’s just never good enough. This is, I believe, the drive (and the curse) of the shoemaker.


SF: You’re still very young – do you feel, now, that you’ve found your niche in shoemaking? Or do you still have a bit of the restlessness in you that took you away from your first career path?

I am always restless. I have found a passion and obsession in shoemaking, and I have built a lot around it both personally and professionally. I intend to keep evolving and see where that takes me. I am always interested in all kinds of crafts and topics related to our industry, so you never what will come out of this!

allan baudoin interview stylefourm baudoin lange styleforum interview

5 Great Dive Watches Under 5,000

We’re now officially in the thick of summer, and with the temperatures steadily climbing you’re likely going to be spending a lot of time by the water. And for that, you can’t go wrong with a dive watch strapped to your wrist. Below, I’ve rounded up 5 of my favorite, all-around dive watches—all under *$5,000.

(*That’s retail, of course. Shop around. You can always find a deal.)


Seiko SRP777 “Turtle” – $495

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I included the “Turtle” in my last article, The 10 Best Watches Under $1,000, and I’m slotting it in here, too. Yeah, it’s just that good.

Based on Seiko’s historic 6309 diver from years past, the SRP777 reissue is a solid diver’s watch even by today’s standards, tying together build quality, looks, and value into one neat, little package. It can be your weekend beater (the watch you won’t mind bumping around while doing some yard work or firing up the grill), or it can be your daily driver. Either way, you can’t go wrong.

Click here for the full review on wornandwound.


DOXA SUB 1200T Professional – $1,890

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A DOXA once graced the wrist of oceanic explorer Jacques Cousteau—that is to say, if it was good enough for him, then it’s sure to serve you well. From the dramatic orange dial and graphic hands to the ergonomic cushion case, the SUB 1200T looks as though it’s been pulled straight from the archives. This one’s sure to be a conversation starter. 

Click here for the full review on wornandwound.


Oris Divers Sixty-Five – $2,100

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Another heritage piece, the Oris Divers Sixty-Five is a great choice for anyone who prefers a more svelte design to larger, thicker divers. But what it lacks in size it makes up for in solid specs that punch well above its asking price. Plus, it’s super versatile, too. Wear it to the beach or wear it to the office—it won’t look out of place.

Click here for the full review on wornandwound.


Sinn U1 S E – $2,390

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The U1 is Sinn’s quintessential dive watch chock-full of the brand’s impressive engineering and know-how, and the U1 S E is a tactical take on that concept. This thing is an absolute tank. It’s made of German submarine steel (known for its properties against corrosion and magnetism) it’s tegimented (surface-hardened for greater scratch resistance), and the case is rated to 1,000 meters. This is overkill done right.

Click here for the full review on wornandwound.


  Tudor Pelagos LHD – $4,400

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Tudor, Rolex’s sister company, has been the it brand for the past couple of years, cornering the sub-$5,000 dive watch market with its impressive Black Bay series. But the 500-meter Pelagos is, in my opinion, the unsung hero of Tudor’s modern catalog, and the recent LHD (Left Hand Drive) edition is the star of the show. With its beautifully finished lightweight titanium case, nostalgic dial, and unique configuration, it’s a high-valued sports watch that you’re sure to enjoy year round.

Click here for the full review on wornandwound.


Ilya Ryvin is the managing editor at Worn & Wound, a leading source of information on value-driven watches. He is also a frequent reader and fan of the “Poor Man’s Watch Thread.”

Yellow Hook Shirts Review

My grandfather grew up in New Jersey, the son of Ukrainian Jews who’d emigrated to escape prosecution and worse and found a new life running a grocery store in the city. Until he died and my grandmother moved to a smaller house, my family and our collected relations would converge upon my father’s rambling ancestral home with a sort of semi-irregularity dictated by holidays and the globe-hopping travel schedules of my always-moving grandparents.

My grandfather, a man of whom I have fond but few distinct memories, had a study that I found fascinating, decorated with objects he’d collected from innumerable journeys abroad, smelling of  – retrospectively, at least – a combination of cologne, pipe smoke, and mothballs. It’s that smell – as indistinct and hazy as it may be now, sixteen years after his death – that I most associate with him. It followed him when he came to visit our family, followed him when we joined my grandparents for a family reunion in the South of France one year, and was as much a part of him as anything else he was.

Strangely, I also remember his shirts. One shirt, in particular: white, with plain black stripes, a buttoned collar, and a mighty roll. In my mind’s eye he’s either wearing that shirt or he’s lounging in a chair in a pair of faded navy blue shorts in the Provençal sun; not quite Picasso but not that far removed in the mind of a ten year-old.

Perhaps that’s why I find the shirts that Yellow Hook makes so compelling. They put me back in a mindset where I’m just a child, face buried in my grandfather’s shirt, wondering when I’ll be big enough to wear one like it. The smell is a part of it – out of the box, Yellow Hook shirts smell like a tailor’s shop in New York or New Jersey, like my grandfather’s study; but the cut is a part of it too. At almost thirty years old, I’ve finally gotten big enough to wear shirts like these. They’re roomy across the back with a very handsome taper through the waist, and a collar that looks like the collar on my grandfather’s old shirts. They fit well. They fit like a shirt should fit.

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The Shirts

As you may have gathered from what I’ve written about Pitti and about other brands, it can be hard for me to separate people from product. That’s as true for Yellow Hook as it is for many of my favorite brands. Rob Rossicone, one half of the husband and wife team who run Yellow Hook, is a man I’ve only met twice, but one whose heart I can firmly say is in the right place. Of particular pride is his Italian ancestry, which he’s keen to share through the pieces he makes with Yellow Hook, but in conversation with him he comes across as equally invested in America’s multicultural heritage. He and his wife are both public school teachers, and in my eyes bring a similar earnestness to what is really their chosen labor of love.

Rob sent me two shirts to look at: one of his Napoli spread collar shirts in summer-weight pinpoint oxford, and a red chambray button-down collar. Fit, as Yellow Hook is keen to point out, is subjective, but the shirts are both slim (no darts), comfortable, and far from tight but very flattering. Rob cites various makers as benchmarks: Borelli, Finamore, Turnbull & Asser, Charvet RTW – but the fit is not as skinny as most of the Neapolitan RTW shirts I have tried, and are much more ‘American’ in style: the pinpoint oxford spread features side pleats, the chambray a single box pleat and locker loop, and the style is both comfortable and comforting. That was the goal from the beginning: provide an American-made product to compete with imported luxury.

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And it’s all made in America, too: the shirts are all single-needle stitched in the New York metro area, as are the ties – Yellow Hook’s first product, originally sewn by Courtney Rossicone herself. Full details of individual shirts can be read on the Yellow Hook website, but single-needle stitching is standard, and Yellow Hook produces limited seasonal runs in selected fabrics, which means that stock is always limited and rotating.

It’s hard to claim that anything in 2017 is honest, but Yellow Hook shirts feel honest in a way that so much clothing – even nice clothing, even clothing I love – doesn’t. Part of that is because Yellow Hook is itself a celebration of American multiculturalism; the shirts showcasing the founder’s Italian ancestry as seen through the the melting pot that is the New York area. These aren’t shirts that are pretending to be something else. They’re American in the best way; inspired by global heritage and traditions and made for everyone.

How they Look

Yellow Hook has become most known for their collar roll, which is the exact kind of collar roll you could have found on my grandfather’s shirts: soft, buxom; a size and shape that’s as psychologically comforting as it is physically, and is large without being overwhelming. Similarly, the cuffs are minimally and tightly lined, making them both comfortable and easy to roll (messily, like me). I also like the the signature yellow contrast gusset, which lends a workwear bent to the product – even if it’s not a detail that will often see the light of day.

 

The fabric choices for these two shirts are also well-considered for the summer months. Pinpoint oxford makes excellent warm-weather shirting, but I’m particularly taken with the hand on the red chambray button-down, which is lightweight and breathable with a texture that has really grown on me the more I’ve worn it. I’m showing it here with the sleeves rolled up, but it also looks right at home under a jacket.

I’d like to note that the red chambray shirt is shown on the Yellow Hook website with yellow contrast stitching; the stitching on mine is tone-on-tone. Additionally, the neck on my pinpoint oxford was enlarged slightly at my request, and these are both details that could be requested via Yellow Hook’s not-really-advertised MTO program for a $50 surcharge and a lead time of 6-8 weeks. For the time being, I’m not sure how focused Yellow Hook is on their MTO program, nor do I know the extent of what’s on offer, but if you need a special size that’s a very modest price increase given the product you get in return.

To return to the issue of fit: subjectivity aside, these aren’t the only Yellow Hook shirts I’ve seen, and I do think that the fit really nails that “sharp, but comfortable” line. I mentioned the American-ness of the style, and these are shirts that work with a tie and a jacket or at a barbecue with the sleeves rolled up.

Final Thoughts

If you’re looking for shirts that give good value – and who isn’t – it’s hard to argue with Yellow Hook’s offerings. New, the summer pinpoint spread collar runs $200 (although it’s currently on sale for $135, and Yellow Hook’s retail prices have now dropped to $135-$155), and the chambray button down retails for $135. Given the single-needle stitching, limited production runs, and entirely human-driven construction, I feel that’s a great price, although it also means that the number of options available at any one time is limited. However, when you add in the intangible qualities I’ve tried to describe above, which will certainly vary in relevance from person to person, I think that you’re left with a product that is, again, honest both in how it what it advertises and in how it wears. That’s hard to come by, and in my mind makes Yellow Hook a very attractive purchase.

I don’t get excited by brands that tout “American Made” as their only selling point, and I don’t come from a school of thought in which the only measure of a garment is the fineness and perfection of the cloth and stitching. In the case of Yellow Hook, being American Made isn’t so much a feature as a backbone – and it supports a product that’s American not by exclusion of outside traditions, but by the inclusion of histories both foreign and domestic. That these are nice shirts is not in question, but as is so often the case, it’s the abstract qualities that, to me, make clothes worth wearing.


Update 7/7/2017: the article has been edited to reflect Yellow Hook’s updated pricing.

 

Yellow Hook is a Styleforum affiliate. If you’re interested in learning more about the brand, you can do so here.

Photos by Ian Lipton
@ian_lipton_photo/

This is not sponsored content. To read Styleforum’s review policy, please click here.

Member Focus: Cleav

Cleav is perhaps Styleforum’s best-known Englishman, known for sharing pictures that showcase a well-selected wardrobe, idyllic surroundings, and a particularly nice collection of shoes. Here, he waxes lyric about his youth, and how he’s grown.


Simple, the life of an interpreter.

The day job is about explaining what one person is saying to another, being able to convey that message accurately with the correct tone and tenor. Then interpreting the response in an equally culturally sensitive manner, facilitating the dialogue so all parties understand the intentions of others. Simple.

Thing is, speaking on behalf of another allows you to take on a role; become them, essentially, for the purpose and duration of the assignment. Amongst many parts played I have been a Doctor, Comedian, Patient, Politician, Woman, Prisoner, Barrister, Accountant, Bricklayer, Lawyer, Footballer, Rock Star, Policeman, Actor, etc. etc. It’s a relatively straightforward task, armed with specific vocabulary, to accurately reflect the thoughts and intentions of someone.

With all that in mind, imagine my consternation then when asked to write this piece: speak for myself? All of a sudden, my interpreting facade is taken away leaving myself bare. Writing about me makes this doubly difficult…I’ll try to keep this brief.

A proud Englishman, forever inspired by my Father and Grandfather. Dad was a highly skilled Tradesman who didn’t mind getting his hands dirty building intricate wooden spiral staircases, cabinets and furniture; equally he scrubbed up well as keen to uphold the standards as set by his Father, my Grandfather. Fred was a senior engineer working for Rolls-Royce, building aero engines for British fighter planes in the 1940’s. My Grandfather would go to work in a jacket and tie, go to the Club for a ‘snifter’ in a jacket and tie, yet would relax reading the Sunday newspapers at home without a jacket though still wearing a tie! They both set the bar high in terms of their integrity, passion and commitment and would impress upon me many things that I in turn have passed on to The Flower Garden, our wonderful daughters courtesy of the love of my life, The Duchess.

I can remember my parents being keen to ensure I and my brother were sufficiently well turned out to visit our Grandparents. Short back and sides with a bowl cut fringe, matching shirts and ties, grey tailored shorts, knee length grey socks and polished black shoes, all at an early age. Well, at least the hair got better! We would be greeted with a matter of fact attitude by my Grandparents, who expected nothing less.

I clearly remember my Grandfather’s words of wisdom, including “Attention to detail, dear boy” and “You can always tell a man by his shoes and his wristwatch.” Some things just stick with you; after all, it is often said we are a product of our environment.

member focus cleav styleforum

With this grounding, I look back with no surprise as to the path I took and subsequent influences. First album bought: The Specials. Best gig: The Jam. First grail item bought: black tasseled loafers, second grail buy: English original Mod jacket. Northern Soul All-nighters. Quadrophenia…I’ll save the rest for another day.

When pressed to describe my style/look etc I was stuck as I found it difficult to summarize decades of experience that has led to a personal style whilst still (hopefully) keeping it interesting. I called on dear friends made here on Styleforum (@cleav) and on Instagram (@ignoreatyourperil) who helped me consider that I go with my instinct, rooted in a ‘classic’ look, whilst able to mix and match pattern and color. Conservative business dress with an elegant continental flair? Regardless, above all else I wear my clothes for me; comfortable, dressed, though never dressed up.

member focus cleav styleforum

Little did I know those shiny black shoes worn as a boy would lead ultimately to my current shoe and boot collection, a quest best described as a journey with no end. Or that being persuaded to wear an elasticated necktie as a youngster would pave the way to my never ending fascination with English and Italian tailoring, bespoke ties, shirts, pocket squares, wristwatches and of course socks – after all, “Attention to detail dear boy, attention to detail!”


You can follow @cleav on Instagram

Summer Deals from the Styleforum Classifieds!

Browsed the Buy & Sell forums lately? If not, you’re missing out. Here are some deals from the Styleforum classifieds that will keep you looking great this summer, whether at work or at play. The Styleforum classifieds section is the best place to find deals on top-quality designer clothing, shoes, and accessories. Not a Styleforum member? Sign up today, and start shopping!


For the Office

1. SuitSupply linen “Lazio” striped suit, size 38S: $285.00

2. Luigi Borrelli tan cotton jacket, size 50 & 54: 550GBP

3. Orazio Luciano beige summer-weight jacket, size 52R: $475.00

Find more more suits and sport coat deals on the Styleforum Classifieds


For the Weekend

1. Eidos “Trapunta” field jacket, size 48R: $340

2. Epaulet sport trainers in alabaster calfskin, size 10.5D: $135

3. Robert Geller cropped cargo pants, size EU46/US30: $80

Shop more streetwear deals on the Styleforum classifieds


For Vacation

1. Etro blue linen knit polo shirt, size XL: $107

2. Borrelli Napoli floral swim trunks, size XL: $85.00

3. Sutor Mantellassi red suede drivers, size US 12: $100

Shop more shirt deals on the Styleforum classifieds


For Everyday

1. Oliver Peoples “Kelton”: $300

2. Christian Kimber green tweed and leather tote: $225

3. Luis Vuitton monogram wallet: $425

Shop more accessories deals on the Styleforum classifieds


Please note that this forum is for private members only, and not for retailers, brands, or other commercial entities. If you are, and wish to sell on Styleforum, kindly email [email protected] for our marketing and advertising options.

Finally, note that Styleforum does not charge any fee for use of this service, nor do we store sensitive information on this system.. Therefore, we cannot be involved in disputes concerning private transactions between members. Please do report any case of suspected fraud to styleforum.net at gmail.com. Any feedback or suggestions should be posted here

Enjoy!

The Best 4th of July Menswear Sales

4th of july menswear sales styleforum

Just in time for you to revamp your summer wardrobe, we’re happy to present our 4th of July Menswear Sales Guide! We’ll be updating this list through the weekend, so stop back regularly to check for new deals. 


Acrimony: 30% off clearance items with code: FIREWERKS

Allen Edmonds: save up to $200 on factory seconds.

Alternative Apparel – Sale On Sale – 50% off sale with the code BANG50

Antonioli: markdowns up to 50% off

Aphrodite: extra 15% off with code hurry15

Atelier New York:  –60% OFF SELECTED DESIGNERS AND STYLES

Aureus Shoes: 30% off with code STARS30 on regular priced items till 7/5 + Free shipping

Baracuta: sale of 30% off.

Barneys: up to 75% off

Barney’s Warehouse: Up to extra 60% off sitewide

Billy Reid:  reductions of up to 70% off.

Bloomingdale’s: 25-50% off selected items. Take an extra 20%, 25%, 30%, 40% off sales and clearance items when signing up for emails.

Bluefly: up to 85% off, plus an additional 20% off on selected items & free shipping.

Bodega: 20% OFF sitewide with code BODEGA4TH

Briggs-Riley: 20% off selected styles

Brooks Brothers: summer clearance – 50%-70% off

Buttero: 30% off SS17

Cali Roots: Up to 50% off || EXTRA 20% boost on all sale with code BOOST.

Carmina Shoemaker: additional clearance items

CENTURY 21:  up to 75% off

Club Monaco: new markdowns + take an additional 30% off sitewide

Cobbler Union: use codes 4th10 to get 10% off orders over $100 and 4th20 to get 20% off orders over $1000.

Coggles: up to 50% off

Corridor NYC: 20% off with the code: JULY4th2017 until the 4th!

Couverture & The Garbstore: up to 40% off

Cruvoir: new markdowns, up to 70% off

Denimio: 15% off everything with code MURICALOVE

Dope Factory: up to 60% off

East Dane: up to 70% off

eBay: $20 Coupon on $100+ Use code P20JULY4TH on select home, outdoor, and more.

Emanuele Bichocchi: 30% off with code SUMMER30

END: extra 15% off sale with code ALLGONE

Epaulet: sales on footwear

Farfetch: sale of up to 60% off.

Firmament Berlin: sale up to 50% off including Stone Island, Stone Island Shadow, Wtaps,Undercover, Stussy, Bootleg Is Better, Chill Out, Nemen, Visvim, Powers.

Forward: up to 50% off

Flannels: up to 50% off.

Frances May: 15% off sitewide with code WAVES

Gentry NYC: store closing, further discounts.

Gilt: extra 40% off apparel with code EXTRA40

Gitman Vintage: 30% off

Goodhood: 30% off

Graduate Store: 50% off on SS17

Hanger Project: 65% sale on select Knitwear, Gloves, and Scarves

Haven shop: Up to 40% off

HBX: Extra 15% off already marked down items with the code SALE15

Hotoveli: up to 50% off

Huckberry: sale up to 70% off.

Hunting Ensemble: Summer Sale – new items added to the sale section PLUS take an additional 10% off with the code STYLEFORUM

Idol Brooklyn: UP TO 50% OFF SELECT DESIGNER COLLECTIONS

Independence: additional markdowns

Indigo and Cotton: summer sale up to 40% off

Isaia: 40% off a selection

James Perse: sale now up to 70% off with code JPSUMMER17

J. Crew: 50% off sale items with code SALETIME || 30% off with code HOORAY

Jean Shop: 20% off in store & online on all in stock Jean Shop full priced items from now through July 5th. Use Promo code: CROSBY3YEAR

Jonathon + Olivia: up to 50% off

Kakhi’s of Carmel: additional discounts on Ring Jackets

Lanieri: 20% off the whole collection with code SUMMERSALE

Lanvin: summer sale – 50% off

Last Call: up to 70% off everything

Lawrence Covell : up to 60% off

Le Rang: Up to 60% off

Levis:  code 40EXTRA for 40% off sale items.

Linde Le Palais: extra 15% off with code 15shopnow

LN-CC: 60% off SS17

LOIT:  30% OFF EVERYTHING WITH CODE LOITTHIRTY

Lost and Found: 20% off of everything in store and online with code canadaeh at check out.

Luisa Via Roma: sale up to 50% off || use code EX4  for an additional 10% or 15% off already discounted items on orders over $300 or $500.

MAAS & Stacks: summer sale ongoing

Magasin: 40% off with code SUMMERSALE

Maison Margiela: up to 50% off

Man of the World: 20% off Made In Usa items with the code USA20

Matches: sale on now for up to 60% off

Mismo: 30-40% off

Mohawk: 10% off sale with code INDEPENDENCE

Mr. Porter: extra 20% selected styles

Need Supply:  Up to 50% off

Neiman Marcus: 70% off – biggest sale of the season

Nitty Gritty: now offering further reductions on selected items with up to 50% off on brands like A.P.C., Harris Wharf London, Margaret Howell, Aspesi, Helmut Lang and many many more. 30% off of Stone Island.

Orion Leather: 17.76% off till 7/6

Tanner Goods: extra 20% off with code BONUS

The Next Door: up to 50% off

No Man Walks Alone: up to 40% off

Nordstrom: Additional savings, up to 50% off

Norse Store: Save up to 60% on selected SS17 items in-store and online.

Oi Polloi: additional summer sales

Other Shop: up to 50% off

Pegg & Son: extra 15% off

Private White V.C.: 30% off selected items with the code SECRET30

Ralph Laurenup to 50% off + take an additional 30% off with the code JULY

The Real Real: up to 70% off

Tom Ford: 50% off a selection of items

Trunk Clothiers: 30% off off SS17

Rooney Shop: new items added up to 40% off

Saks 5th Ave.: final sale – up to 70% off

Sartoriale: additional items added to the outlet

Shoes.com: use the code FIREWORKS for 25% off

Sierra Trading Post: up to an additional 20% off

Slam Jam Socialism: sale up to 50% off

SSense: sale up to 70% off

Standard and Strange: – 25% off clearance section with code CLEARANCE25

Steven Alan: use code TAKE40 for an additional 40% off sale items

StyleBop: Up to 70% off

Superdenim: up to 50% off

Taylor Stitch: 20% off everything, no code necessary

Tessabit: up to 60% off sale

Tres-bien: further reductions – up to 60%

Uncle Otis: up to 40% off

Understudy: up to 60% off

Unis: sale on Common Projects

Velasca: 15% off loafers with code VELA15 + Free shipping & returns

Vince: extra 25% off with code SUMMER25

The Webster: EXTRA 20% OFF SALE with THEWEBSTER4TH

Wrong Weather: up to 50% off

Yoox:  up to an extra 60% off.

ZFACTORIE: 50-70% off everything


If you liked our 4th of July Menswear Sales list, don’t forget to visit the Official Sales Thread  and share with us the good deals you’ve found!

If you like a good bargain, check out Styleforum’s brand new Buy&Sell section. Here is a selection of the hottest items for sale right now!

Peter Nappi Review: The Julius Basso Boot

 

Back at Pitti 91, Arianna and I had the pleasure of running into Phillip Nappi, who’s the head of Tennessee-based footwear brand Peter Nappi. I can remember reading about the brand in its early days, and coming back to it occasionally over the years due to what I thought was a pretty handsome offering of un-fussy workboots. It fell off the Styleforum radar for a bit, but there’s always been off-and-on interest in the boots, and the brand’s been reinvigorated with a new push, a new adventure to Pitti, and even a new brick and mortar location to support its Nashville flagship store. I’ve circled back continuously, which made it particularly fun to talk to the owner.

As is the case with most brands I end up liking, part of my interest came because I liked Phillip a good deal – he’s earnest, straightforward, and very evidently in love with what he does. That last part encompasses a bit more than just overseeing a shoemaking company, since Peter Nappi is part of what I think is a pretty interesting Southern-US garment and craft movement (along with other brands like the underrated Shockoe Atelier), and their store in Nashville is as much a community space as it is a showroom for shows and events.

You might not be surprised to hear that, after all of this, I was pretty happy to have the chance to take an extended look at a pair of Phillip’s wares, in the form of a some extended wear and review of the Julius boot, which is their flagship model. Specifically, I looked at the “Julius basso” boot in Snuff. I happen to be a fan of lightweight work boots, and of light, versatile boots in general. I’ve owned many different brands in many different styles, and boots that can more or less stand in for sneakers have always had a place in my wardrobe. These fit that bill, both in the way they look and the way they feel.

Silhouette and Style

In the case of the Julius basso, the larger, rounded toe, tapered waist, and short heel give the boot a very handsome silhouette – the toe isn’t so upturned as to resemble Carpe Diem and its descendants, but it’s also enough to make the boot noticeable. According to Phillip, it’s based on a 20th century Italian work boot model, and I think it strikes a really nice balance between being handsome, eye-catching (I’ve been wearing this pair for a little over a month, and for whatever reason they seem to get noticed more than my other footwear), and easily wearable.  As is, I think it’s a good alternative to a more standard chukka boot, while not demanding heavy workwear styling – it’s more at home with light jeans or fatigues than, say, a pair of Redwings, while also feeling a bit less precious (and a bit more versatile) than the Styleforum favorite that is the sleek side-zip boot (think Margiela).

They wear very similarly to sneakers as well. This model is unlined (though others are), but it’s also due to the low heel that wearing the boot doesn’t feel any more, well, taxing than wearing a pair of sneakers, aside from the lack of rubber sole. However, in this particular case the thinness and flexibility of that sole (more on this later) makes the boot what it is, and the unlined upper that this particular model features makes it a good option for summer. I often get very sick of wearing sneakers, but heavy boots are, well, heavy, and the low height and breezy construction mean that I feel pretty good about wearing these in the 80 degree heat.

This year, Peter Nappi has introduced a “Julius Due” model that is, according to Phillip, very similar to the standard flagship but with a slightly narrower toebox. Phillip told me via email that the Due model “Was really a test to see how the market responded to it,” which I take to mean that the standard Julius isn’t going anywhere any time soon.

Construction:

This particular boot is constructed with a Blake-stitch, which I understand will concern some of our readers who are concerned about potential quality trade-offs. However, this is at its heart a lightweight workboot, and the slimmer sole looks very nice with the silhouette of the shoe. I’ll point you to Permanent Style’s dismissal of concerns over Blake stitching, but I’ll also say that if the thinner sole concerns you from a comfort perspective – this is not an issue in my experience – the addition of a rubber sticker sole will solve all your problems (and is something I do to all my boots anyway).

When I asked Phillip why he opted for Blake as opposed to Blake rapid, he told me that the brand originally began using the Blake stitch, and that last year they experimented with Blake rapid to make the boots look more “Beefy,” but that in the end, the brand is known for its lightweight, Blake-stitched construction, and that’s the route they’ll be going.

I find the sole and construction very comfortable, and there’s enough room in the boot for an insole should you choose. In fact, I think they’re very comfortable – it’s nice not to have to worry about crowded toes, but the silhouette from the top down really is well thought-out. I imagine that it would be nice to have a more cushioned insole, but that’s a  very personal preference and there’s plenty of room in the boot for an insole.

I should note that Peter Nappi also sells a completely hand-stitched Julius model that also sports a hand-stitched Goodyear welt (yes, you read that correctly).

Price, Quality, and Final Thoughts

First, I should offer a disclaimer that, except at the far ends of the bell curve, ‘quality’ is not generally a metric I pay much attention to. I have never had a pair of shoes fall apart on me (with the exception of a rubber heel coming off), and I am not easy on my belongings. In this particular case, I think it’s more important to note that some will no doubt find the thinner leather sole less comfortable than a more rigid sole would be, but it’s equally important to note that this is purely personal preference. If you’re used to wearing lightweight Italian shoes, Peter Nappi boots will feel very familiar. This is, I think, a big part of the charm – the boots are flexible enough to be “shoe-like,” which makes them feel versatile and wearable, especially in the summer as an alternative to sneakers.

As listed, the price for the model shown is $595, which puts it firmly in the “mid-market designer” category. That’s not cheap, but it is competitive with many of the many other brands in the price range, and Phillip told me that they’ve managed to lower prices (when’s the last time you heard that?) based on increased production, reduced fuel costs (the boots are still manufactured in Italy), and the relative strength of the dollar. As a result, the new Julius Due retails for $100 less. “We always aimed to be as approachable as possible,” Phillip told me.  “We want everyone to be able to experience what we’re so passionate about. After seven years, the tide is finally turning in our favor.”

That seems to me a better conclusion than any I could write: Peter Nappi’s boots are, in my eyes, defined by their accessibility. They’re easy to style, easy to wear, and they look damn good on the foot.


Photos by Ian Lipton
@ian_lipton_photo/

This is not sponsored content. To read Styleforum’s review policy, please click here.

Summer Fabrics for Staying Cool

Summer finally arrived last week in San Francisco, but while the rest of the Bay is baking, the city peaked in the mid-70s, which means you can still wear a jacket without breaking a sweat.  Still, you’ll want to be comfortable, and thankfully there are certain fabrics that perform well when the mercury rises.  Here’s a quick rundown of good summer fabrics for staying cool.

Wool
The most versatile suiting fabric, wool can take you from the depths of winter to the height of summer and its crease-keeping and wrinkle-shedding qualities will help to ensure you look so fresh and so clean.  
One great summer option is Minnis’ Fresco, which is a high-twist open weave that allows more air to pass through, so you can still have your hot body but at least let off some steam.  This is one of my go-to fabrics, as Minnis makes various weights – up to 15/16 oz – that are suitable for a variety of temperatures, and the texture and color variegation makes it visually interesting.  Their 7/8 oz will keep you the coolest but some have reported that it can stretch and bag.  The middle of the road 9/10 oz is best for all but the hot hot heat, retaining a sharp crease and holding its shape all day long.  I have four suits in this fabric and it serves me up to the 80’s in San Francisco.  The fabric is a little on the scratchy side, but the recently released Fresco III bunch is supposed to be softer, if less shape-retaining.  Early reviews of the fabric can be found on the forum.
Minnis also used to offer Rangoon, a take on tropical wool.  Tropical wool is very smooth and extremely comfortable, but I find it wrinkles far too easy, and not in a nice way.  Rangoon is supposed to be drier and more wrinkle resistant, so if you value those qualities as I do, keep your eyes on the Buy & Sell section of the forum, as lengths of the discontinued fabric pop up from time to time.
best summer fabrics for staying cool styleforum cool summer fabrics styleforum warm weather suit fabrics styleforum

Minnis “Rangoon”

Holland & Sherry’s Crispaire is another one of the forum’s favorite choices.  Styleforum member @Kolecho says it falls between in between Fresco and tropical worsted in terms of porosity and smoothness.  It runs a little warmer but has many more patterns, including a few glen plaids.
@Kolecho also recommends wool/mohair blends, which many companies manufacture.  Mohair suits were often used in the past for summer or nighttime activities, as it gives off quite a bit off sheen and keeps a razor sharp crease.  However, its bulletproof qualities can leave one hot, and its tight weave doesn’t allow as much freedom of movement as wool.  A bit (30% or lower) of kid mohair (as opposed to the less expensive but scratchier, more brittle mohair) keeps you crisp and dry with little, if any, sheen, and the more flexible wool fabric keeps you comfortable.
Smith’s Finmeresco is a similar fabric to Minnis’ Fresco.  Whereas Minnis is 2-ply (meaning 2 strands of fabric are twisted together to make a single thread), Finmeresco offers 3-ply and 4-ply, which means it’s a bit more spongy, which some prefer to the crisper hand of the Minnis option.
best summer fabrics for staying cool styleforum cool summer fabrics styleforum warm weather suit fabrics styleforum

@emptyM in his Finmeresco blazer

Some companies offer wool fabrics in a panama weave, which is kind of an open basketweave.  These share similar qualities to tropical wool but with a bit of texture.  Wrinkle resistance is typical for regular wool, but if you want something in wool that’s a little less “suit-y” for a sport coat, almost all makers have lightweight 8 oz fabrics in a hopsack or basketweave. These fabrics are perfect for a summer blazer in navy or lighter blue. Look for a loose weave and wonderful texture to help keep you cool and casual.  
Other suiting options: Scabal Condor, London Lounge Brisa, Rubinacci London House Hopsack 

Linen 
Ounce for ounce, linen doesn’t hold a candle to the functional qualities of wool.  It is less durable, less elastic, less absorbent, and doesn’t keep its shape longer than a few seconds.  Still, nothing says summer quite like linen.  The slubbiness of linen gives it undeniable aesthetic appeal, and the slightly bumpy weave helps keep the fabric away from your skin, helping to keep you cool.
 Whereas the lighter stuff is too flimsy and sloppy for suiting, if you can stand the heavier stuff, or your summers hover in the low 70s, you want a good, hearty linen, starting at 12 oz and above.  W. Bill of Harrisons makes a 14oz linen that might sound insensible, but some can tolerate it even in the brutal New England summer.  The heavier weights are better at keeping their shape, allow for better drape, and don’t wrinkle as much as rumple.  The net result is slightly disheveled yet looks all the better for it, the sartorial equivalent of bedhead.  
best summer fabrics for staying cool styleforum cool summer fabrics styleforum warm weather suit fabrics styleforum

@Voxsartoria in a 12oz W. Bill linen suit

Classic linen colors are tan and navy, but if you feel like something different, try a tobacco brown; it’s surprisingly versatile. Cream and white are also options, but only if you resign yourself to spots and Colonel Sanders cat calls. Glen plaids look great as well.
Suiting options: W Bill, Cacciopoli, Drapers, Solbiati

Cotton 
Dylan from Dylan and Son knows that sometimes you just have to resign yourself to the heat. “In Singapore, it can get so hot and humid, shape and drape is secondary to comfort. I wear 9oz cotton trousers a lot.” Then there’s Manton, currently putting out fires in Washington, who is more intolerant than anyone of the heat, who recommends 6/7oz cotton to cope with summer’s misery. “It wrinkles,” he admits, “but so what.”  This is what you reach for when form takes a back seat to function. 
Cotton suits look great in any shade of tan. Perhaps more so than linen, cotton fabric has practically no give, so consider a slightly looser fit, especially the shoulders, chest, and thighs. Also, stick to light colors: cotton fades as it wears, and this is even more apparent on darker colors. 
Want to get really seasonal?  Try seersucker.  While verging on anachronistic, the stuff was actually created relatively recently to beat the heat in New Orleans.  Like any other fabric it can look fresh and stylish when everything fits, but for a more modern take, try a seersucker in tonal blue.

Blends 
Of these there are many.  I have a featherweight sport coat in a Cacciopoli silk/wool/linen blend that wrinkles ever so slightly.  Be aware that they will never be as cool as those weaves that are specifically woven to be porous, nor never as wrinkle-resistant and those meant to keep a sharp crease.  In all but the most extreme conditions, however, they can serve as a light alternative that combine the best properties of each fabric.
 

Styleforum Member Focus: ChetB

Styleforum, meet ChetB. He flits between CM and SW&D so easily you’d think he was an Internet ghost, but like many of us, he just has a lot of interests. This week, he tells about the lows and highs of online menswear hobby-chasing, and how he ended up where is today.


Luxury Sweatpants (Or: What I Wore While Wasting My Life)

I saw the the best minds of my generation dressed by the internet, starving for 15% off codes, dragging themselves through the Mr. Porter sale section looking for an angry fix (preferably something blue from Japan).

Like other millennial dudes who grew up in the age of the internet, I too have suffered for #fashion. Questing for sick fadez, I sat in a bathtub with jeans on, the cold blue water swirling around me, as clouded as my judgment. I bought suede jackets from Belgian designers too expensive and delicate to wear in the kind of weather you need a jacket for. I wrote eBay listings with phrases like “pit to pit” and “plenty of life left.” I learned to tell forward pleats from reverse pleats and barely wince when I hear “shirting” or “trousers” or “pop of color.” I collected quote-unquote wardrobe essentials the way 80s kid–me collected baseball cards. At my lowest, I searched for cool walls to stand in front of while my wife took pictures of my outfits, which I then posted to the internet in order to farm thumbs from people named “Jet” and “Mr. Moo,” blurring my face to hide the shame.

I used the words “luxury” and “sweatpants” in the same sentence, in consecutive order. I sized down two. I sized up one. I wore shirts made from seven other shirts.

How did I get here? How did we get here?

Slip-Sliding the Slippery Slope

The answer, for me, is a question: “How should my suit fit?”

That’s what I asked Google a decade ago. I was starting my first job out of college and didn’t know how to dress for it. I landed on a site called Styleforum, a place where, among other banalities, grown men fight about how best to fold small pieces of silk. Years later, I’m still down the rabbit hole, exploring all the nooks and hidden passages, emerging only occasionally in chunky baller knits and/or drop crotch pants.

For as far as things have come, they started out slow. I spent a lot of time at first scouring dusty thrift shops, scooping up Paul Stuart ties, vintage Oxxford suits, and L.L. Bean boots. At that point clothing wasn’t so much a hobby to enjoy as it was a problem to solve. As if once you collected all the essential ingredients your closet was “complete.” Like beating a video game or something.

Things changed in a dingy thrift shop in rural Utah, when I happened upon a black Maison Margiela suit. It was like that scene in 2001: A Space Odyssey, when early man encounters the mysterious black monoliths. What’s with all the numbers on the tag? Why the exposed white stitches on the back, and the weird cut? Though I didn’t know what to make of it all, for $10, I took it home.

My tastes didn’t change overnight. But now I wondered: what else is out there? Soon my wardrobe of “sensible basics” started looking like a sea of boring, the blue Brooks Brothers collars rolling in like tiny waves. I was ready to start having more fun.

Dreeze Van What?

I never get the chance to talk about fashion IRL. (Except for once, at Costco, when a guy asked me if my Blue Blue Japan jacket was Engineered Garments, and if I knew where the taquitos were). Which is fine with me. I’d probably flub the pronunciation of my favorite designers’ names anyway.

But I’m happy that there’s a community online where it’s not weird to talk about how pants should “break” or why epaulets are lame. A place where people understand my excitement at finding a Hunstman of Savile Row shepherds check tie at Goodwill for a dollar (which, incidentally, I wore at my wedding a year ago) or a vintage shop coat or a Brioni jacket.

As time goes by, I find myself becoming less and less prescriptivist and narrow-focused and instead learning to enjoy all the vast possibilities. It feels sometimes like you’re supposed to pick a team: “I’m a Neapolitan tailoring guy,” or “I’m a workwear guy,” or “I’m a 90s sportswear guy” or “techwear is my thing.” But things are more interesting when you don’t pick a side.

Have fun. Experiment. Don’t be uptight about it. It’s just clothing.

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You can follow ChetB on Instagram