Member Focus: Man of Kent

Posted on by

For a long time, Man of Kent has been featured on the banner for Streetwear & Denim, which should give you a sense of how diverse that particular subforum can be. While these days he mostly wears a blend of workwear pieces from different parts of the globe, he had his beginnings in Classic Menswear, and hasn’t forgotten where he came from. 

man of kent styleforum

I joined Styleforum in my mid 30’s and almost a decade on I’m still here. Initially, I was exclusively on the Classic Menswear side of the forum (or Men’s Clothing, as it was called) and picked up some good advice and interesting viewpoints from other members. Over the years, I probably raised my game when it came to dressing for work and it was interesting seeing regional differences in what was considered ‘conservative dress’. I still spend some time lurking on that side of the forum even though I only post there with great infrequency.

Then somehow, I wandered across the rather artificial divide to Streetwear & Denim. I confess my preconceptions were baseball caps and heavily logo’d sportswear worn with oversize trainers. Much to my surprise, I loved the diversity of looks I found there.

My first steps were fairly safe. I’m a middle-aged Brit who lives in a semi-rural part of the UK; market-town rather than big city dweller. I was comfortable in a Barbour with jeans; I didn’t stand out from the crowd. However, there comes a time when you realise that dressing safely isn’t really fun. I moved onto designers who were producing British Heritage based pieces: Nigel Cabourn, Oliver Spencer, the short-lived Heritage Research, the supposedly re-launching Cro-Jack, and so forth. I still wear much of what I bought from that period, but my head was being increasingly turned by slightly bolder takes on workwear, and I fell in love with Engineered Garments. From Engineered Garments, it is only a small step to Needles then other Japanese brands. Kapital quickly beckoned, along with the odd Blue Blue and Post Overalls piece, getting bolder and bolder in my choices. Some of the appeal of the Japanese designers is their age inclusivity; a browse through any Kapital catalogue (somehow I’ve accumulated a few) shows older guys wearing the same pieces as younger guys. European fashion seems much more focused on specific age groups.


I’ve dabbled with some of the European designers. I’ve dabbled in lots of directions; a bit of Marni here, a little Dries Van Noten there, a few bits from Maison Martin Margiela. I’ve played with French workwear, Scandinavian simplicity, and gone back to England with Margaret Howell. I own a few bits of Yohji Yamamoto, and if finances permitted, could easily be persuaded to further explore that direction.


I’ve ended up with a veritable dress-up box of different styles and designers. Maybe I should have been more selective about directions taken, but for me that would take the fun out of clothing. I want to be able to dress to different moods. I like experimentation. I dress for myself rather than other people. Yes, at work, I’m pretty conservative, generally in suit and tie or at least a sports coat and flannels. Of a weekend I can wear what I feel like wearing. Do I worry what other people think? Not really, I get the odd comment, mainly positive and occasionally negative, but I think if you wear clothes with confidence most people don’t really notice what you’re wearing, and even fewer care what other people wear.

I don’t know where I’m going in the future. I’m might be inspired by one of the many great posters on Styleforum to try a new direction. The wardrobe is large enough that I don’t really need more clothes. I’ve started dabbling with denim more, and to my great surprise recently found I liked some sportswear – not a direction I’d ever have considered a few years back. I’m buying less clothes than I was as other interests divert funds: photography, fountain pens, gardening and whatever piques my interest next, but I’ll continue acting like a big kid with a dress-up box.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

2 Heat-Beating Casual Spring Styles for 2017

Posted on by

If you watch the runways, spring fashion always looks like a treat: beautiful, lightweight overcoats, interesting layering, and all kinds of colors. Unfortunately, if you’re like me, the reality is that summer is a slog. Every spring, I struggle with the conflicting emotions of looking forward to warmer weather and dreading the inevitable heat. It’s made worse by my inability to wear anything but shorts when the temperature nears 80, and my ingrained fear that I look like an overgrown child when wearing said shorts.

Of course, if you work in an office building, you probably have the added complication of air conditioning, which often means that while indoors you need to wear a parka over your warm-weather clothing if you don’t want to succumb to exposure. I haven’t managed to entirely solve this problem, and I suspect that anyone who does is lying. Even so, there are a few things I’ve managed to work out for myself, style-wise, that make the heat tolerable. I’m not saying that they’ll convince you that a 100-degree day is “pleasant,” but they may at least offer a starting point for your non-suited style when you don’t want to wear running shorts and a gym tank top.

  1. Light, slouchy cardigans and shirt-weight jackets

    This one sounds counterintuitive, but if you live in a place with a lot of sun, a light outer layer (especially if it has a collar) can help both to block the sun and cool you down. It also solves the pocket-problem: with multiple sets of keys, EDC’s, vegetable-tanned leather wallets, phones the size of paperbacks, and whatever else, if you’re not carrying a bag you’re probably going to need pockets. I’ve amassed a small collection of pieces like this. My three most-worn items, however, are a linen shopcoat from Blue Blue Japan, a shirt-weight printed blazer from ts(s), and a denim noragi from Epaulet. All three offer the perfect compromise of warmth for the occasional chilly morning or air conditioning unit while being relaxed and light enough that being outdoors won’t melt you.

    There are a few brands offering pieces like these, and it shouldn’t be surprising that many of my favorites hail from Japan. Visvim’s perennial noragi is an obvious example, but I really like what ts(s) is offering for this spring, including this great cardigan. Another good bet is Blue Blue Japan, which is showing off such beauties as this reversible jacket. Stephan Schneider also often has lightweight shirt-jackets for the spring season, which are quite nice but a bit more akin to actual outerwear than what I tend to favor.


    The other perfect summer option is the Bill Cunningham special, the French chore jacket. If you’re not going to go the vintage route (try Etsy), look at brands such as Vetra and Carrier Company rather than fashion-forward names, as the relaxed cut will be more comfortable in the heat.
  2. Loose, cropped (or rolled) trousers

    I know that in an era when trousers and jeans are still skin-tight, “relaxed” sometimes means nothing more than “you can almost move in them.” But I’m specifically talking about loose pants, pants that mostly don’t touch you except at the waist, and which swish about when you walk. Admittedly, these are still rare, and are often found at brands who excel in wide-legged repro gear (think navy coveralls, and that sort of thing). However, there are plenty of options that won’t make you look like a deck hand.

    The first of those is, nonetheless, naval-inspired. The 4-pocket “overpant” style (so called because its ancestor, the 4-pocket navy pant, was worn over your other pants for extra warmth) has been appearing in more and more stores. I’m currently wearing two different pairs, both of which have proven acceptable for the summer heat. The first is from Evan Kinori, and is a pattern he regularly releases. For this spring, there’s a linen-cotton denim model, which can be worn a size (or two) up for added breeziness. Kinori also makes a lightweight field shirt/jacket, which I don’t own but can recommend after seeing it in person.

    The second is a pair of Shockoe Atelier’s 4-pocket trousers in their “Como” denim, which are much more jean-like, but look great when rolled or cuffed to the ankle. There are a couple of sizes left, so you may be in luck. Of course, to go along with your noragi, it only makes sense to try something like these Blue Blue Japan wide pants. I’m wearing a similar style in the photo below, and they really are ideal for summer.
    2 must have styles for spring 2017
    With all of these styles, I like to wear either chunky, chukka-type shoes or low-profile sneakers. Think simple canvas Vans or other plimsolls, although I’d guess that a loafer or slip-on would look great as well. That said, if you’re after something less similar to the jeans you’ve been wearing all winter, I’d recommend one of two types of trouser:

    1. Loose, lightweight navy trousers
      Either let them puddle atop your shoes or crop them at the ankle – or do both. Navy offers a nice respite from the current trend of black-trouser-white-Common-Projects look, and lends itself better to brown footwear. I don’t find this particularly exciting, but if you’re after simple, navy trousers are simple.
    2. Gurkha trousers
      Forum member @TTO has often shown these off in our WAYWT thread, and without saying too much, I think they look great with both casual and tailored clothing. I’ve seen these styled really well when they’ve been hemmed to an ankle length, and the shape is, I think, easier to pull off than you may realized. Off the top of my head, you can find them at What Price Glory.

      2 must have styles for spring 2017

      @TTO in Gurkha trousers

Hopefully, this helps to alleviate at least some of the tedium of looking through your closet when summer hits and thinking “I can’t wear any of this, I guess I’ll wear hiking shorts again.” If you have other summertime favorites, feel free to share them below.

Submit your work to All Styles Considered!

Posted on by

all styles considered issue #2 issue 2

Submit your work to All Styles Considered, Styleforum’s community-driven arts magazine!

What is it?

All Styles Considered is a printed magazine made up of submissions from the Styleforum community, which are then sequenced, edited, designed, and printed by our team. Our first issue was themed ‘place,’ and all copies sold out in a few days.

Who Are We?

We’re a weird mix of honest and upfront, sentimental, serious, tongue-in-cheek and playful. Hopefully there’s something for everyone.

What’s the theme?

The theme of Issue 2 is: “softness.” Think of cozy knits, think of gentle moments and kind things, think of lilting songs and misty mornings, think of spider webs and a kid giving you a thank you note they made themselves. Think of songs that feel like soundtracks to a dream, photos that almost have a texture you could sink into, that part of Stand By Me where the older protagonist erases the line ‘I’ve never had as good friends as the ones I had when I was 10’ (might have mangled that one), think of that episode of the Simpsons where Homer explains how his love for Maggie drove him back to the soul-crushing job at the Plant, think of how soft puppies are.

That’s what we’re getting at here – cool stuff that isn’t gritty or hardcore and brutal, but is gentle and important and essential.

What will we accept?

We accept every type of submission:

– Writing

– Photography

– Illustration

– Music

– Video

– Graphics

– Painting

– Food related content

Note: If you send us image submissions, please make sure that they are at least 2500px on the long edge (or around 8″ printed at 300dpi). If people want to be considered for two-page spreads, we need 4k+ images.

How do I submit?

To submit, please send an email with your submission to [email protected] – submissions close 1st of April, 2017, Australia time.

That means you have a little under two weeks to submit your content to All Styles Considered, Issue 2. ASC2 will be available for purchase via Styleforum.

Subscribe to the All Styles Considered thread to stay up-to-date!

Still not convinced? Check out issue #1 now!

Member Focus: Cotton Dockers

Posted on by

Another across-the-board Styleforum participant, @Cotton Dockers regularly shares outfits that run the spectrum from CM to SW&D and everything in between. His style is relaxed but put together, and he’s come up with a look that’s both consistent and all his own.

Having a longtime interest in clothing never stopped me from consistently buying garbage. I remember a velvet blazer was heavily involved. A lot of “going out” shirts.  I did buy Iverson’s first iteration of “The Question,” and I stand behind that.

When I got to Styleforum, I spent most of my time in the thrifting thread. That place is chock full of knowledge and all the dudes on there are incredibly helpful. Thrifting is a great way to work toward finding your personal style. It doesn’t mean you won’t waste money on making terrible mistakes, it’s just that they won’t be quite as costly.

After noticing some fellow SFers on Tumblr, I decided I wanted to try and move beyond #menswear so I mustered up the courage to post on the HOF: WAYWRN board. I don’t remember my first post, but I cannot imagine many thumbs were farmed.

I’m a pretty simple guy when it comes to CM wear: blue blazers, knit ties, suede shoes, etc. but even that was really too much for my office. Working in-house for an entertainment company, I wanted to find something that worked more for my day-to-day needs, something without grenadine ties but without resorting to the blue gingham shirt (TM).

With the help of @KenP and others, and sites like PutThisOn, I started to get into Engineered Garments, along with sister brands like TS(S), Needles and Orslow. I began to take pieces I liked from their collections and integrate them into my business wardrobe, posting the results on the WAYWRN: CM Casual thread.

That thread gets a lot of shit, but the quality in the last few years has increased immensely. Posters like EFV, Gerry Nelson and Urban Composition are excellent examples of ways to dress for a business casual environment without looking like a typical office drone or try-hard peacock.  My standard uniform these days is an OCBD, rumpled EG fatigues, a pair of chunky shoes and some type of casual jacket (so not far from this).

A few years back, after PMing with recent SWD convert InStitches, I began to check out the other side of the forum. I loved that some of the best SWD outfits were like pieces of art, I didn’t always understand them, but I appreciated them for what they were. I looked to posters like Shoreman, Prurient and ManofKent for inspiration. I liked that they took pretty classic styles, but updated them with unique cuts, patterns and textures.

These days I try and take styles I like (and what I think I can actually pull off), and meld it with what I do each day and my environment. Living in a beach community where anything more than a t-shirt and slappers is considered dressed up, I wear a lot of flowy pants, lightweight cotton jackets (a ripstop EG bedford is my go-to) and, of course, Vans. Although I try and experiment (I’ve been wearing a lot more black than I ever did in my CM days), and I learn more each day, I’ve found a style that works for me and my lifestyle.

Outfit Inspiration: The Patchwork Blazer

Posted on by

patchwork blazer styleforum

There are a few members on Styleforum who do the “Whimsical CM Casual” look pretty well. One is Gerry Nelson, who you’ve heard from on this very Journal, and whose style we’ve already covered. The other two are @Cotton Dockers and @ManofKent, two paragons of Styleforum virtue that excel at putting together relaxed, whimsical outfits. We can easily imagine either of them wearing something similar to what we’ve put together here.

This outfit, as you’ve probably gathered, is centered around a Barena patchwork blazer, a brand which has long enjoyed an enthusiastic, if muted, fanbase on the forum – it’s friendly to both casual outfits and streetwear getups alike, and is generally both comfortable to wear and individual enough to stand out. To emphasize it’s not-quite-classic features, we’ve combined it with a few other playful pieces.

The first is this pair of relaxed trousers from Marni. Loose through the thigh, they’re tapered and then cropped at the ankle for a breezy spring-and-summer weight and silhouette. A linen shirt from Lanieri is our one nod to convention, and depending on how you choose to order yours, can be worn tucked or untucked. At the bottom, we’ve gone with the endearing Paraboot “Michael” shoe, a classic of country-wear if there ever was one, to balance out the tapered trousers and add some bulk to the look. We want to nurture Barena’s innate pagan magic, and a pair of shoes perfect for tromping through the woods achieves just that.

To round things off, a pair of retro-inspired sunglasses from The Bespoke Dudes keeps your eyes safe from harmful UV rays (always important), and a charming bandana-slash-pocket square from Blue Blue Japan is always a nice touch.

However, the most important aspect of any outfit is how you wear it, and we suggest you channel the three members who’ve inspired this particular look: wear it while wandering the countryside, wear it will cruising in your vintage sports car, or wear it as a comfortable airport outfit – whatever you do, wear it with a little bit of spring in your step and embrace a bit of whimsy along with the warm weather.

Clothing and Memory: What Makes a Garment Special?

Posted on by

Can you think of a piece of clothing or an accessory that has a special place in your memory? Oftentimes, we consider clothing as one part of the various paraphernalia that fills our lives and we don’t give it much importance. The truth is – and I’m not proclaiming groundbreaking news – life is filled with lots of small things. 

There may be events that mark major changes and phases in our existence – an educational degree, a new job, the loss of a loved one, a marriage, a child – and any other smaller occurrence is inevitably located “before” or “after” such events. However, I think of these moments as if they were painted in black and white, and that they acquire vividness only after we color them with those small things that we so often neglect.

Clothing and Memory

My graduation day

The day of my graduation wouldn’t be such a sweet memory if I didn’t fill my mind with the smell of the beautiful flowers my parents handed me when I finished defending my thesis; one of the first memories I have after moving to the United States is the burst of flavor of the glaze coating my very first yeast donut; when I think of my last trip to Florence, I remember with a shiver of pleasure the feeling of raindrops running over my lips and down my neck when a shower surprised me.

Clothing falls into this category of apparently trivial details that give color to our lives and make memory a comfortable (and sometimes dreadful) place to be.

Perhaps the most influential piece of clothing I owned was a simple white shirt that my mom bought me when I was about 17. It was the first “professional” item to appear in my closet, and it was really nothing special or great quality. On the contrary, it started to show wear quite soon, and I had to ask my grandmother multiple times to mend it and reattach the buttons that kept coming undone. However, I never felt the need to purchase another white shirt, and this one served its purpose and went through many stages of my life: castings during my years of modeling, job interviews, opera concerts. I even wore it the day of my graduation, and the familiar feeling of that dreadful poly-blend on my skin soothed my spirit and hid the tumult of the heart underneath.

Clothing and Memory

In Florence during Pitti91

The last time I wore it was at Pitti Uomo in January, to the great disappointment of my husband, who tried to persuade me to buy a new, better quality shirt to bring to Florence.

I finally threw it away shortly after, and replaced it with a sartorial shirt I found during the sales in Turin.

Some pieces of clothing are like people: you run into them and think they are nothing special or relevant at all, but they end up being there when you’re most in need, or inspiring you when you least expect it. My shirt had finally exhausted its purpose, and shuffled off its mortal coil along with zillions of other white shirts. I like to think that in the afterlife they’re as immaculate and pristine as they were when first handed to their owners. 

I’m going to ask you again: can you think of a piece of clothing or an accessory that has given color to your life?

@AriannaReggio

Why You Should Repair Your Clothing

Posted on by

It’s easy to get caught up in the cycle. You see something on Styleforum (or anywhere else), you think “I must have that, this purchase will make my life complete,” and not long after you’ve bought it there’s another must-have on the horizon. Eventually, you have more clothing in your closet than you can possibly wear. At that point, you either embrace it, or you start downsizing.

What happens to the favorites, though? If you’re lucky, you eventually land on garments that you keep returning to, and they turn into something special. At this point, we’ve all heard the raw denim marketing pitch: that it molds to your body, that you write the story of your life into the fades of the denim. That’s all fine and good – clothing holds memories the same way that scars do, albeit less painfully, and far be it from me to take the romance out of your favorite pair of jeans.

One problem we run into when we’re surrounded by so much newness is that it’s hard to be content with what we have. Not taking the time to enjoy your clothing has several effects, one of which is that your clothes don’t get worn before you give them away or try to flip them. Used clothing, regardless of brand or trend, has a magic that new clothing doesn’t. It’s not just denim – the worn spots on the elbows of a jacket, a frayed cuff or collar; all of this is enticing in a way that proves the wearer is real, is human.

Personal style changes over time. There’s no point denying that, and I don’t know why you’d want to. However, part of personal style comes from combining garments in interesting ways, and in developing a look that suits you. Just because your favorite shirt – the one you wore to death – doesn’t really go with your newer interests, doesn’t mean you can’t say the hell with it and wear it anyway. So, when I say that you should patch your torn shirt instead of throwing it away, it has the twin benefits of bringing you more use out of a piece you love and adding a personal touch to a garment that makes it 100% your own.

Styleforum is no stranger to threadbare elbows and patched denim, and for good reason. Well-worn clothing encourages you to take a little bit of your past along with you as you enter each new chapter in your life. Patches, stitches, and repairs – it all adds to the personality of the garment, and it’s a fine reminder of where you came from.

Of course, everything dies, and that includes clothing. Eventually, you’ll come to the end of a garment’s life, and no amount of darning will be able to save it. That’s when you lay it out, thank it for its service, and let it retire honorably. Unless you don’t want to do that, in which case you end up with something like this:

My mother purchased this shirt from Banana Republic at some point in the early 80’s, and she wore it and washed it until the fabric turned see through. Then she wore it more. Eventually, it started ripping – everywhere. The hems unraveled. The collar isn’t much of a collar anymore. Every seam has, at some point, come undone. At last, the entire back of the shirt started to give way in a spiderweb of tattered fabric. She retired it, until I insisted a couple of years back that it could be saved. Which it more or less has been, thanks to endless patching, darning, and stitching. Now it’s an heirloom, a work of art that’s spanned two generations and almost four decades.

The next time you think about throwing out an old garment, think instead about what you stand to gain from repairing it: not just a functional piece of clothing, but a testament to life, and proof that you lived one.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

 

How to Style a Leather Shirt

Posted on by

how to style a leather shirt jacket styleforum

 

First of all, even though it says leather shirt, we recommend wearing another shirt under it. Second of all, the leather shirt or leather shirt jacket is less tricky to style than you might think – no, you don’t see that many of them in the wild, but that shouldn’t deter you. It’s just that more movie-star friendly styles – like moto jackets and double riders – are incredibly popular, and we don’t see that changing. Opting instead for a leather shirt jacket keeps you from looking like a Harry Styles wannabe, and since the leather shirt jacket is generally a lighter-weight garment, it’s perfect for springtime.

We’re mildly obsessed with this version, made by heavy denim and leather experts Iron Heart. It’s made from a supple Japanese deerskin that’s more flexible than calf and tougher than lamb, and combined with the snap-button front and the western yoke, it’s the kind of piece that will be at home with faded blue or deep black jeans, whether you’re into Ralph Lauren or ultra-heavyweight denim. The more you wear it, the more it’ll form to your body, and with enough love (or abuse) a piece like this will look absolutely incredible.

There’s no reason you couldn’t wear said jacket over a t-shirt on the weekends, but we suggest playing up the western theme with a Jean Shop denim shirt – because why not? Faded denim looks great with black leather, and it’s also a nod to the occasional chilly spring day. And since denim and leather is such a badass combination, you might as well maximize the effect with as much denim as possible.

Speaking of, this pair of jeans from kick-ass Tokyo newcomers Nine Lives should fulfill your black denim kick. A moderate 13.5 oz denim is far more comfortable year-round than 21 oz monsters or 10 oz lightweights, and the details – such as hidden pockets on the yoke and a slanted coin pocket (to make the thing, y’know, usable) – aren’t so much gimmicks (enough with the selvage-trimmed everything) as well thought-out details. Plus, we know from experience that a well-made slim-straight cut goes with just about everything in most wardrobes.

To keep the theme of heavyweight style in a more comfortable form, we’ve chosen moto boots from arte povera darling M.A.+ to tickle your feetsies. No, they’re not ten-pound engineer boots, but that’s the idea. You get supple leather, as well as a not-quite-traditional take on a traditional style. And don’t listen to the internet noise: you can absolutely wear Maurizio Amadei’s organic shapes with more structured and traditional garments.

Finally, let’s talk about the little details: how about a pair of ridiculous sunglasses? You’re already wearing a leather shirt over a denim shirt, and you might as well keep on having fun. Rose-colored aviators from respected eyewear brand Dita add a not-too-serious 70’s slant to things, and we suggest growing a mustache to go along with them. And Montale’s Aoud Cuir d’Arabie is the perfect accompaniment to an outfit built around a leather shirt – it’s an animalic, almost medicinal oud-and-leather scent that’s been compared at various outlets to “old band-aids,” “camel urine,” “sex and leather,” and “the best B.O. anyone’s ever had.” The dry-down, however, is mellow and approachable, just like you are.

We give it a gold star.

 

1. Iron Heart Deer Leather Shirt – $1,650 at Self Edge

2. Denim Workshirt – $255 at Jean Shop

3. Slim Straight Work Jeans – $290 at Nine Lives Brand

4. M.A.+ Moto Boots – $2,250 at Idol Brooklyn

5. Dita Mach-Two Sunglasses – $700 at SSENSE

6. Montale Aoud Cuir d’Arabie – $120 at Luckyscent

The 5 Best Deals on Styleforum’s Classifieds

Posted on by

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best of Styleforum’s classifieds. Out of that glittering company, we’ve picked our five favorites to share. Click the links below to see the listings!

  1. RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL TWEED WINTER COAT SZ L – from @Suited

    This beauty from Ralph Lauren sports all the trimmings: a wool, cashmere and alpaca blend shell; suede detailing everywhere, and a lovely trim fit for a sleek take on a traditional silhouette. Fan-tastic!

    Available for $1,488

  2. GAZIANO & GIRLING ST JAMES II CEDAR/KUDU – from @Keal19

    If you’ve ever wanted a pair of show-stoppers…well, look no further. These were part of a GMTO done through Skoaktiebolaget, which means this might be your only chance to find a pair. Beautiful contrast leather, a beautiful last, and an all-around beautiful shoe.

    Available for $1,200

  3. EIDOS NAPOLI NAVY OVERCOAT 48R – from @robotmitli

    This simple but elegant overcoat from Styleforum darling Eidos Napoli comes in a herringbone fabric made of blended cashmere and wool. A navy overcoat such as this one is just about the ideal outer layer for any tailored wardrobe, and will bring you many, many years of enjoyment.

    Available for $699

  4. LUIGI BORRELLI NAPOLI SPREAD COLLAR SHIRT – from @aph99

    The perfect spread-collar shirt, made in white cotton poplin with barrel cuffs. It’s always good to have a white shirt on hand for when situations demand it, and with one such as this you probably won’t need another.

    Available for $149

  5. CALABRESE 1924 NAPOLI TRAVEL BAG – from @violethour1951

    There’s no feeling quite like that of packing your things into a weekender and taking off for a few days. And there’s maybe nothing better than carrying a bag as nice as this one. Whether it’s going in the trunk of a car, in an overhead bin, or on the train seat next to you, it will wear hard and only get better with age. A true heirloom piece.

    Available for $650

To see all of @razl‘s selections, click here.

How to Enjoy your Clothing

Posted on by

I think that once you hit a certain point in your tenure as a veteran Styleforum Member, it becomes perversely easy to lose sight of what attracted you to clothing, style, and fashion in the first place. This is something I’ve noticed on all corners of the forum, from our Should I or Shouldn’t I threads, to the Wedding Style thread, to the Sales Alert thread – and, well, basically every corner of our little community.

What I mean, specifically, is that members forget about the brands and styles that they like because they’re overwhelmed by the quality/value proposition and, to an extent, brand name as well. People start thinking “Why would I buy X, when Y is a better value?” when really we ought to be thinking “Why do I want this in the first place?”

There’s no right answer, of course. That said, I’d argue that the most right answer is that you love it. There are many reasons we end up loving clothes – design, construction, and the materials used are just some of the features that draw us to particular garments. However, there are also plenty of more subjective reasons to buy or covet a piece of clothing, and they’re no less valid.

For example, you may discover a character in a movie that you admire, and you may be attracted to their wardrobe – both because of how it looks, as well as what it represents. Similarly, you may find that a garment you’ve seen reminds you of your favorite book, or your favorite song, whether by description or due to a reason you can’t quite put into words – yes, I speak from experience. And sometimes, the garment you’re immediately smitten with isn’t – *gasp* – the best value on the market. Maybe it’s some cheap thing you walked past in the mall. Maybe it’s an obscenely expensive experimental knit. My point is that it doesn’t matter: somehow, men have managed to demonize buying what we like in favor of buying garments that we can point to as objectively good or utilitarian, as though we’re still trying to pretend our interest in clothing is different and more fulfilling than other people’s (read: women). It’s too simple. It doesn’t show how worldly we are. We could be doing better.

Bullshit.

That – looking purely at the “quality” (intangible at the best of times), “value” (more or less completely invented), and “utility” (nonsensical) of your clothing – is a great way to end up with a wardrobe full of garments that do nothing for you. The same goes for garments you think you should be wearing, either because they’re ‘basics that every man should own’ or things you’ve seen on cool Instagram accounts that nevertheless don’t inspire an emotional response other than the animal urge to find the item in question and click ‘buy.’

I once had an elderly British soccer coach who used to tell his players that they ought to be running around at half-mast all game, just because they were so goddamn excited to be out on the field. Notwithstanding potential injury, it’s a not-terrible metaphor for how you ought to feel when building a wardrobe. Maybe a take a minute to stop researching the ins and outs of every purchase. Maybe let yourself like the things you like, for no other reason than that you like them. That shirt you like doesn’t have to be hand-made by arthritic Italian men in order to have value. Your shoes don’t have to be the pinnacle of construction in order to be wearable or worthy of your love. It doesn’t matter if you could have gotten a different thing that’s better for less money. It doesn’t even matter if you’re treating your wardrobe solely as a tool for social interactions.

What matters is that enjoy your clothing – and more specifically, what matters is that you give a garment value through your enjoyment of it.