How to Wear a Cape

The first time I went to Pitti, which was only a few years ago now, one of the brands that most stuck out in my mind was Tabarrificio Veneto, a company that makes – among other things – gorgeous capes. I thought it was fantastic. And when Arianna and I returned to their booth again this season, I still thought it.

It’s interesting to see such garments alongside the trend-driven wares that many of the brands at Pitti are selling; even the most established companies change somewhat over the course of a year. Capes, however, have been basically they same thing since the first time shepherds pulled fabric ’round their shoulders. But, like any garment, they’ve come in and out of fashion, most recently experiencing a surge of popularity in the nineteenth century, before fading again into obscurity. Now, they’re largely seen as accessories for Vampire: The Masquerade cosplayers and halloween revelers.

As unfortunate as that is, it’s my hope that it will shortly change. Back in 2015, actor Antonio Banderas said he wanted to bring back capes when he enrolled at Central Saint Martins. Sadly, he’s made none so far, but even if Zorro’s failed us that doesn’t mean others aren’t up to the challenge. At Pitti 91, Spanish tailoring house Sastreria 91 showed off, in addition to some fascinating coats and jackets, some very fine capas. Theirs are less the cloaks of masked superheroes, and more the raiments of modern-day toreadors; Sastreria 91 favors bold colors rather than Poe-ish blacks.

There’s always been a contingent of cape-wearing men present as Pitti Uomo, and I’m not just counting the guys who drape their overcoats off their shoulders (which isn’t so much “affected” as it is “really handy,” because of how hot the damn pavilions are). Of course, most of these efforts – many of them nothing more than photo-bait – fall into the category of “No thanks,” but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t men who wear capes quite well.

One of those men is Styleforum’s @Butler, who told me that he never wears a coat anymore. “No need to get a fitted overcoat, no need for gloves – you just put it on,” he said. And then demonstrated. I felt immediately jealous, and beyond that, I couldn’t believe how natural it looked – and that was even before we’d gone to see Sastreria 91 and Tabarrificio Veneto.

That, we did the next day. First, we stopped at Sastreria 91, where in addition to capes Paul showed us some of his very well-cut coats and jackets. One of these pieces is a “modern cape,” a long jacket featuring two front panels that hang separately from the back of the garment, and which you can see both me and Paul wearing in the slideshow below.

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While I understand that these pieces probably won’t attract our more conservatively-minded members, I must say that the patterns were cut so comfortably, with such an impressive amount of movement granted by the non-traditional curved seams, that I was tempted to walk out of the booth wearing one. Of course, in addition to the above pieces, there are the capes. Here, you can see them in all their glory:

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Later in the day, it was Arianna who pointed out Tabarrificio Veneto. I’ve written about them before, and I think that this paragraph is still perhaps the most accurate way to describe what it’s like to put on a cape:

The look isn’t everything. No picture can fully communicate the magic of donning (yes, donning) a cape: one must grab it firmly but gently by the lapels, gracefully curl the spine, and then extend, swirling the cape about one’s shoulders in a motion that requires approximately twenty square feet of empty space if one doesn’t wish to endanger passersby. Once it’s on, you swing one side of the garment up over your opposite shoulder in a gesture so powerful it must be experienced to be understood. I did it one time and almost passed out. Muttering “Nemo me impune lacessitt” under your breath as you walk into the night gives +10 to vengeance.

You can click here to see what it looks like in slow motion.

Now, I would like to adjust that description slightly by saying that after seen more people wearing capes, I think they don’t need to be quite so dramatic. I’ll also say that it’s the cape-like garments with toggles and straps and what-have-you, the garments you see posing on the Pitti Wall, that are a bit more perilous than the un-altered originals. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen anyone wearing one of said capes and thought it looked good; although Tabarrificio Veneto has now split into two, and its sister brand focuses on producing solely those cape-inspired pieces of outerwear.

However, what you really want are the traditional Venetian capes -named tabarri– which look just as they did when they were used in the Middle Ages by knights and aristocrats. The Venetian cape has one single clasp that buttons on the neck – Tabarrificio Veneto uses a metal lion head, which is the symbol of the city of Venice – and the tabarro remains closed by throwing one side over the shoulder. It comes in two lengths: a longer model that goes down to the calves and takes 6 meters of fabric to create, and a shorter version that is ideal for riding horses (or bikes). The fabric is a thick, heavy wool that repair against the wind and is also entirely waterproof. The main characteristic of a tabarro is the live-cut of the wool, which is never hemmed. Otherwise, it is a simple cape.

The more rugged capes could easily be worn with brands such as Engineered Garments, The Soloist, or even Cabourn and the like, while working well with country-inspired tailoring. The dress capes require a sharper outfit, however, as @Butler demonstrated in a 3-piece suit from Savile Row. I can easily imagine wearing one to the ballet. If you live in Venice, so much the better.

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There are a handful of other companies making more modern capes, and one that may be of interest to you is Norwegian Rain, which produces this S-Cape in weatherproof fabric with a fur collar:

Norwegian Rain pitti uomo 91 how to wear a capeAs you can see, it’s not quite traditional. And, I have to say, I don’t love it the same way I love the pieces from the two brands mentioned above. While it may be very functional, it loses the charm of wearing something that is nothing but a cape.

Regardless of what type you choose to wear, I’ve observed enough cape-wearing over the course of the past few years that I think I can safely put together the following shortlist of tips for how to wear a cape:

  1. Own it.

That…really seems to be the only rule. A big part of nailing the look is not to feel affected. Don’t fidget with the collar, don’t constantly look at yourself in the mirror, don’t call attention to the fact that you’re most definitely not wearing a coat. If you’re wearing jeans and sneakers, maybe don’t wear a cape made of cashmere Loro Piana fabric. If you’re wearing a suit and tie, maybe don’t wear a shepherd’s cape. Otherwise, just put it on and go outside.

Now, I’ll be honest. It’s possibly you have to be a handsome older gentleman living in a European city for this not to look silly. Or at the very least, attending an evening affair. But I did think, while looking at the tabarri, that the short 15-18 version could be perfect for anyone who wants to ride a bike when the weather’s cooler.  Like me, say. Yes, you’d need to wear gloves, but you’d get to bike around with your cape streaming in the wind behind you. And that, frankly, sounds awesome.


Arianna Reggio contributed to this article.

Styleforum’s Pitti 91 Recap

Pitti passes by so quickly. There is so much build up beforehand, and then… poof, it’s over. I’ve spent the last two months planning what to see, who to meet, etc., etc. Then the week comes and it all turns into a hazy whirlpool of cheek kisses, dinners, and nighttime events in lavish locations. Then, a few days later, I leave and feel like I didn’t really have time to actually speak to all the people I wanted to speak to, I didn’t see all the exhibitors I would have liked to see, and I didn’t have time to just stroll about and see the city-sized museum that is Florence. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining – I just spent almost a week in one of the world’s most beautiful cities, discussing and looking at beautiful clothes, shoes and accessories. I guess it’s just impossible to squeeze everything you’d want to do into four days.

I was lucky enough to be traveling with Jussi Häkkinen, a new partner at E-F-V, and his lovely fiancée, Anu Ratulinen. This season my fiancée, Erica, couldn’t come because of work. She usually helps out with the photography when we’re there. Fortunately, Andreas (@Anden) was able to come this year and take pictures. And even though I missed having Erica with me, I really enjoyed hanging out with Andreas this week.

Anu had taken care of booking an apartment for us. I was expecting your average Air BNB experience, meaning a decent flat with a shower. What I had completely missed was that she had managed to book us a room in one of Florence’ oldest and most well known palazzos. Not only did the 7-meter ceiling have beautiful frescos, but the apartment was also overlooking Arno and Ponte Vecchio. We found out later that this palazzo was Hannibal Lecter’s Florence residence in the movie Hannibal.

After arriving pretty late the first night, I had to dump my luggage in the room quickly to join a dinner for “influencers” (I really can’t identify with that term), hosted by tie makers Loïc et Gil. The restaurant was very nice, and even though I arrived a few hours later than everyone else, they had only gotten halfway through the 10-or-so-course meal. The company was good and naturally we ended up at cafe Gilli in central Florence. Gilli’s is a beautiful old cafe, with some nice pastries and decent drinks. All of this is impossible to appreciate during Pitti though, since the place is brim full of Pitti visitors, and the staff is particularly rude. Tired after traveling and the big meal at the restaurant, I headed off to our apartment to get at least a few hours of rest before Day 1 of the fair.


Day 1

I woke up eerily early the day after. Couldn’t shower, since all the hot water was used up. A quick cold wash in the sink had to do the trick for day one. We got dressed, had a quick cup of coffee and headed off to meet some friends outside the fair.

Andreas and I had decided to meet up inside the fair before lunch. There were so many people to meet and greet outside of the main pavilion that we actually didn’t get inside before lunch. After some haggling, Andreas, myself, and a Swedish photographer friend named Milad managed to get our lunch passes, even though I had emailed ahead to make sure there would be no problems this time. “Oh well, it’s Italy” (a phrase I repeated to myself a couple of times this week). We arrived at the lunch buffet, met some Swedish friends, had some wine, and headed out again.

Once inside the fair halls, we walked around just looking into booths for a while. Of course we had a few must-sees (the usual suspects), but nothing scheduled. This was pretty much my philosophy for the week – trying to have as little as possible scheduled, to be able to actually experience the atmosphere and the visual impressions without repeatedly checking the clock. This made the entire week much more enjoyable, and actually fruitful.

We met Jake and Alex, formerly of the Armoury, in Orazio Luciano’s booth. They told us they are now launching their own store in London. Exciting news indeed for all Londoners.

Day 1 went by way too quick. Since we had planned to go to Plaza Uomo & Simon Crompton’s Independent Shops Symposium at Palazzo Budini Gattei, we didn’t really have time for dinner. Unfortunately, the location of the party, beautiful as it is, didn’t work perfectly with the symposium that was being held at a stage at the far end of a big hall. Standing close to the stage, you could hear what Patrik of Skoaktiebolaget, Mark of the Armoury and the other guest speakers were saying, but at the back of the room everything dissolved into mumbling. Partly because a lot of the guests didn’t really care about the shushings from the people who wanted to hear what was discussed onstage. Since we hadn’t had time for dinner, the drinks hit harder than they usually would have. Once it was time to get something to eat, Benedikt (@braddock) lead the way, and a nice little company of people (12 or so) headed off to a really nice place, centrally located, where I was seated next to my good friends, Norman Vilalta and Charley Marcuse (@mr.claymore). The meal was great, the company was even greater, and all of a sudden we found ourselves at Gilli’s again.

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Erik is co-founder of EFV Clothing. You can find him on Instagram at @ErikMannby. If you’re attending Pitti Uomo 91 this January, let us know in the comments below!

The Pittilogues: Pitti Uomo 91, Day 5 – The End

Pitti has seemed more subdued to me this year. Les boisterous. The theme – Dance!, or something – has been much less apparent; the only gesture is an installation of gyrating mops in the plaza – many of which are broken by Friday. I really don’t think it’s just me, either. I’d guess there are fewer peacocks, and more importantly, there seems to be less interest in them. 

Arianna and I meet late, having stayed out until about 4AM the night (morning?) prior, and it’s pouring rain. We get caught in a burst on the way to the Fortezza, and are soaked through by the time we arrive. The plaza is empty even for a Friday, the weather having forced all but the most devoted away. Some of the true believers stand around, looking wistfully at the wall, plumage and spirits bedraggled. Someone stops me in the central pavilion to take photos; tells me it’s because I fit the image of their brand. The mind boggles.

We make good time through the show; taking photos where we need to, saying goodbyes, talking to people we’ve managed to miss. There are several – strange leatherworkers, artistic milliners, cape-makers – that are worth seeing, but for the most part we’ve done our job. We return to the press room for water, and then it’s over. We leave the Fortezza without a backwards glance. I say goodbye Arianna at her hotel, and meander back through the city, headed for the Piazzale Michelangelo and a last glimpse of Florence.

The duomo rises from the heart of the city. Fog banks and curls through the rooftops, lifts as it kisses the villas nestled in the forest. There is snow atop the hills. To the west, the sky lightens at last into the pale pinks and blues of  and the sun at last blushes into evening.

It has become harder over the years to write these journals. Perhaps you’ve noticed if you’ve followed along over the past few years. Part of that can certainly be attributed to fatigue, but when I reach the piazzale I consider that perhaps jealousy is the real cause.

Because, you know, perhaps the moment that most sticks out to me from this entire journey was sitting at the Stephanie Ricci show, when the lights went dark and the music swelled and the wall of roses shone beneath the chandeliers. Clothes I don’t care for in an overwrought, clichéd setting – but moving nonetheless. It can seem frivolous to chase after beauty. But when you catch it at last, when you glimpse the naked imperfection and chaos of the world and relief swells within you, you remember that the chase is beautiful as well, and the discovery well worth the effort. 

I suppose that what I’m trying to say, despite the jealous part of me that is tempted not to share these moments with you, dear reader; despite my desire to wave disinterestedly as we let Pitti Uomo fade into internet obscurity as a brief hilarity of the 2000’s, it’s worth remembering that it’s always easy to be dismissive, to look at the unfamiliar and scoff. It’s harder to listen and appreciate.

Harder, but more fulfilling. Thanks for following, Styleforum. We’ll be sharing more thoughts on our favorite brands from Pitti in the near future, but that’s all from Florence. I’ll see you next time.

Attending Pitti Uomo as a Woman

attending pitti uomo as a woman

I didn’t exactly know what to expect from Pitti91, beside a whole lot of tight pants and narcissism. I am familiar with fashion events such as the Women’s Fashion Week, so I am pretty much immune to the nerve-racking parade of individuals that dress up like lion tamers in hope to snatch a feature on a fashion magazine. 

However, attending Pitti Uomo as a woman has been a fascinating experience. First of all, nobody pays attention to anyone who’s missing chromosome Y, unless they are buyers, models, or photographers. The only stares I received from the Pitti crowd were on account of my camera, which was permanently hanging at my neck, and they were sending clear signals that they wanted to be immortalized. 

Second, I think I finally realized what men feel like when they are forced to go on a shopping date with their significant other, and endure hours of meticulous inspection to determine how clothes fit. 

Essentially, my job at Pitti was to follow Jasper around and take pictures of him trying on anything he thought was cool. This ranged from mini top hats with silk ribbons to vampiric Venetian capes, nylon field jackets, and–of course–Camoshita overcoats.

attending pitti uomo as a woman

Regardless of what he wore, Jasper looked as if he just walked out of a GQ cover. I stared at him long enough to understand that he’s that unnervingly type of person that would look good even wrapped up in the recycled plastic they use on luggage at the airport. He probably thought that I was searching for the perfect frame to take a picture, while in reality I was secretly hatching plans to kidnap him and turn him into another underpaid model in LA.

The peak of this try-on frenzy was reached at the stand of a quite talented Italian hat maker, where a small crowd of adoring women insisted that Jasper tried on every single hat that was displayed. 

attending pitti uomo as a woman

On a personal note, I’ve had the pleasure to meet one of the few women present with a booth, Deborah from De Bonne Facture. She’s Jasper’s female equivalent: wearing a menswear shirt and a pair of trousers from her own collection, her face completely free of makeup, she reminded me how French women’s class and elegance shine from within, no matter what they put on, and I instantly felt as sophisticated and graceful as Kim Kardashian on Paper Magazine’s cover.

attending pitti uomo as a woman

The Pitti people warm up to the opposite gender during social events, when the drinks replace cameras in the hands of the attendees. I’ve had the privilege to meet many inspiring and talented people and talk with them over a nice glass of rosso, and the only awkward moment was when, at a dinner, I somehow ended up sitting in front of a wine maker who kept insisting that I described the aroma of the wine we were drinking.

“I don’t really know,” I blushed, swirling the liquid nervously in the glass.

“Come on, give it a try. I smell leather,” he said, inhaling loudly into his chalice.

I am pretty sure that “red fruits” would have been a safe answer, but I didn’t want to sound unsophisticated, so instead I said: “Bitter almonds!”

“Excellent! What else?”    

I desperately looked for Jasper in hopes of being rescued, but he was deeply engaged in a conversation with a French designer, so I dipped my nose into the glass and smelled again.

“Er…dry leaves? Crackling fire?” I will never know if the guy actually figured I was just listing the names of my favorite Yankee Candles, but he did seem satisfied with my answers.

attending pitti uomo as a woman

Besides indulging Jasper’s obsession with indigo-dyed everything, the show itself gave me the opportunity to talk with the makers and the creators of brands – both emerging and established – and understand the ideas behind their product and the character behind their brand.

As customers, we encounter the final product on the shelf of a store or on a webpage, but that is only one of the final steps in the lifespan of each object. Before being handed to us, a designer came up with an idea, sourced the materials to create it, failed several times along the way, and eventually delivered the final product to the retailer. 

When we make a purchase, we miss out on a whole process that oftentimes adds value to the product.

I listened to a leather dyer narrating how he lost his job before trying his hand at what he was doing only as a hobby, and his hands were shaking when he handed me his creation to inspect; I witnessed a tear peeking out of the eye of a shoemaker when he told us about becoming an orphan at the age of 16, and moving to Italy from Tennessee to follow the footsteps of his dad, a shoemaker, who never got the chance to teach him the job; I saw the smile of satisfaction illuminate the face of a hat maker when Jasper complimented the fine details of her creations.

Today’s easy access to almost any item on the market comes at a cost: like in Plato’s myth of the cave, we only see what’s projected in front of us, but that is nothing but a shadow, a ghost, of the show that is happening behind our backs.

Without history, material things are merely stuff. Knowledge is the key to understand the world around us: without knowledge, we could stare for hours at the Last Judgement in the Sistine Chapel and see nothing but a bunch of bodies painted on a wall.

Our mission at Pitti Uomo was to unveil a little bit of the hidden beauty that’s lost in the process that exists between maker and customer, and remind everyone that beauty comes in different shapes and forms – but  that it does require an effort to understand it from our part. 

You can choose to blindly accept what’s presented to you, and nobody will judge you for being lazy or content with it; or you can choose to take a bite of the forbidden fruit, and embrace new depths of satisfaction.

Either way, I hope you will agree with me that it is perfectly acceptable to make fun of a pompous wine maker. 

@AriannaReggio

The Best Streetstyle from Pitti Uomo 91, Day 4

Styleforum’s coverage of the best streetstyle from Pitti Uomo 91 continues, with Andreas Klow’s photos from Day 4 of the fair. Which is your favorite look? The slideshow is below.

You can follow Andreas on Instagram at @flannels_and_tweed.


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Style Lessons from Pitti Uomo: Pittilogues 91, Day 4

I’d like to take this installment of The Pittilogues to tell you about some of the things I’ve learned or re-learned on this trip, and tell you a little bit about the people who taught them to me. I would have written it all out as usual, told you about the brands we saw and all of that, but Day 4 was really all about these individual people who were gracious enough to spend time talking to us, both at the fair and at dinner.

I love knowing nothing, because it means that my life is full of new experiences – I am an expert in very little, though I appreciate people who are actually experts. At Pitti, whether you know it or not, you’re surrounded by people who, in addition to being very well-dressed, are passionate, intelligent, and insightful. I’d like you to meet a few of them:


1. Stay true to your own style – Fabio Attonasio

style lessons from pitti uomo 91 styleforum

“Why is this guy carrying around a bottle of vodka?” I ask. We’re sitting outside a terrible nightclub around the corner from Gilli at about 3:30 AM (Gallo, or Gaëllo, or whatever it is – if you’ve been to Pitti you’ve probably walked past it), watching some very energetic young men congratulate each other on being young and energetic as a handful of girls look on. One of men (boys, really) is carrying a bottle of vodka by the neck, waving it around like a scepter.

Because where he comes from, in his social circle, carrying a bottle of Belvedere is a sign of wealth. He is shouting to his social peers – look at me!”

That’s when I take a slightly closer look at Fabio, the man behind The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear. Despite his massive online presence and being something of a style celebrity on Instagram (a man stops by at one point to tell him that he’s an inspiration), he’s both thoughtful and humble.

“I never thought I would do this. I thought I would be a judge or a lawyer. I really thought that.” For now, though, he’s here with me and Arianna, watching a drunken parade of Pitti-goers pass us by, dressed mostly in ridiculous clothing. And the three of us, being the three of us, can’t resist keeping up a running stream of commentary.

“I hate fake,” says Fabio, though he doesn’t sound angry about it. “If you are consistent, if you love what you do, please go ahead. But if you think you are doing this just for money, I hate you.”

Strong words, perhaps – but despite all of our heated arguments about “authenticity,” and how it means very little in the world of fashion, there’s something soothing about knowing who you are and dressing like that person. Pitti is the land of both the phonies and the true believers, and it’s not always obvious which is which.

“Oh, look,” Fabio says as the bottle of Belvedere flashes and the boy waves it about wildly, “It lights up.”

“Like an anglerfish,” I say.


2. There’s always an audience Henrik

style lessons from pitti uomo 91 styleforum

“The only thing I ask of people is that, if you’re wearing a tie, you don’t loosen it and unbutton your shirt. It defeats the purpose.”

I have to admit that I can’t imagine Henrik ever loosening his tie. Or unbuttoning his shirt collar – I imagine the world might end if he did. He’s an etiquette consultant wearing bespoke Savile Row (and a cape) and is generally pretty damn well put together. We walk together from dinner to an English pub (yes, really), and along the way, in between the jokes that I can’t repeat here, we talk about Young People, clothing, and what it is to be well dressed.

I tell him that when I attended the Ricci show earlier this week, the invitation had requested cocktail attire and that I’d been curious to see what people wore – but that, unfortunately, it had mostly been people dressed just as they were at the English pub.

“I’m always shocked at how well women dress relative to men,” he continues.  “It’s as if they don’t care that their friend or partner has gone to great lengths to look nice. Dressing well shows respect to your company, and to yourself.”


3. Remember to enjoy yourselfErik Mannby

style lessons from pitti uomo 91 styleforum

 

“I think it’s easy for us to get jaded,” Erik tells me over champagne. An hour ago, we were listening to the Independent Retailers Symposium, and now we’ve moved into the adjoining rooms for some food and drink. Champagne, mostly – hors d’oeuvres are secondary.

He’s right, of course. The last time I came to Florence was for Pitti 89, and I was suffering from some pretty intense burnout- hating everything, despising the clothing, the setting, the circus. And now that I’m back, I feel – well, pretty much the opposite. Fresh. Ready to listen. I tell him as much, and he nods knowingly.

“At the same time, for me, it never gets old,” he says. “There are great people here, and I’ve made so many friends over the years. I feel privileged to be here. I really do.”

A part of me feels a bit of lingering shame over this, though I can’t help but agree. I don’t know what it is about this trip, but I’ve had a great time so far – I feel as though I’ve seen more, talked to more people, been more involved than I usually am. Do I love everything? Of course not. But that doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate the chance to see it all.

The fashion world seems, from the outside, like a world for billionaires and jet-setters and people who don’t understand what it means to be human – but that’s not true (well, not entirely). Most of the people at Pitti are here because they love what they do, not because they’re getting rich off of it. But there’s more than one way to be wealthy, and just as Erik said, it’s important to take a moment to appreciate all the wonder that’s around you.


4. Style has very little to do with what you’re wearing – Charley

style lessons from pitti uomo 91 styleforum

You may recognize Charley from the forums, and I first met him few years ago at a Tie Your Tie party in Florence to which neither of us had been invited. Greg and David of No Man Walks Alone brought me along with them; Charley showed up at the door in one of his three-piece suits and, I imagine, simply charmed his way in.

Boisterous in both style and personality, Charley wears a three-piece every day – or at least, he’s been wearing one every time I’ve seen him. He’s perhaps one of the most American men I’ve ever met, and I rarely think that’s a good thing. In addition, he has a very well-trimmed beard, and beyond that, he’s open, friendly, interesting, and interested – all admirable qualities. It’s hard not to get caught up in Charley’s enthusiasm for everything about Pitti, whether it’s the clothing, company, or the parties.

“I love it here,” he says. “It’s so pure. When you’re here all of that stuff that exists in the internet – the opinions, the disagreement, the hate – it all disappears. You don’t like what I’m doing? Fine. You go do your own thing, and be happy.” 

 

 

Styleforum’s Pitti Uomo 91 Streetstyle, Day 2.5

We’re back with more Pitti Uomo 91 Streetstyle. Check out the slideshow below to see some of the world’s best-dressed men – including a few familiar faces!

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All photos Andreas Klow. Follow Andreas on Instagram at @flannels_and_tweed.


 

The Pittilogues: Pitti Uomo 91, Day 3

The Pitti crowd is different from the Paris crowd. A little less self conscious. Willing to try harder. Not so focused on appearing as though they don’t care. Italian style, despite what online haters may scream at you, is neither uniform nor uniformly ornate. I’ve said it in the past, but it bears repeating: the people in wild suits and fur capes don’t demonstrate Italian style, they demonstrate Pitti style.

I still find them rather sad. There is a sense of desperation about the way they move. Arianna tells me that when she passes through a crowd with her camera, twenty heads shift, trying to see if they’re being photographed without looking as though they care. I understand that some of them are here to promote something other than themselves, and that beneath the plumage they are people, but I can’t help but dislike the act.

On the other hand, I can say that I firmly believe that Italian men aged 42 – 60 (approximately) may be the best-dressed men in the world – in a Western sense, of course. They are truly effortless, though – the elderly gentlemen I have seen bicycling their groceries through the streets this week give our most-loved forum members a run for their money. Effortless doesn’t begin to cover it.

The fair is busier today, but it still doesn’t feel as packed as I remember. I’ve heard third-hand whispers that I can’t corroborate that some of larger makers are leaving Pitti, because it doesn’t bring sales the way it once did. People still come to buy, of course – it’s a trade show, after all – but more than ever, it’s an opportunity for exposure. A chance to shake hands. Remember names. However, booth prices remain high, and travel prices are not getting cheaper. Some buyers are choosing to come to the Italian brands and showrooms once the fair is over, to avoid the crush as well as the travel fares. Pitti has always been early, early, early in the season, and I wonder if it’s sustainable.

From my end, the fashion fatigue is palpable. Part of me wonders if the idea of trend-chasing is itself a trend, just as everything is a trend. And in part, that fatigue is what retailers such as those who were present at this week’s symposium are fighting against – how to avoid overwhelming their clients with the constant pressure to buy, and how to stay afloat when they’re telling clients to “keep.” It’s a tough line to walk, and it’s interesting to hear the varied opinions on what will come next. No one that I have spoken to expects the “menswear bubble” to last, but part of the reason Italy has remained a stalwart of both design and manufacturing is that it is slow to change. Perhaps Pitti will shrink in the years to come, but tailoring will certainly live on.

Of course, this fair is not a great demonstration of that feeling – there are still plenty of people doggedly following every trend – colored fur, cropped fringe jeans and mules on the women, still too-short too-tight suits on the men. Still plenty of household brands with giant pavilions full of garbage. And, as usual, the “Urban Panorama” sections are full of crap. Golden goose knockoffs, Yeezy-season knockoffs, and sparkly down coats. One company sells jeans with handcuffs through the belt loops. Maybe handcuffs are the next big trend. Yesterday, at Stefano Ricci, I met a man who told me that his guilty pleasure was kitschy Versace clothing, and that he was was once stopped at security for bringing through a Versace blazer that had razor blades sewed along the lapel.  

Everything inside the “unconventional” pavilion feels so tired. Do you remember “street goth?” That’s what this pavilion is devoted to, and even after a year and a half it seems dead. Hell, it seemed dead after six months. But they must have buyers, must have a devoted legion of micro-trend followers, because here they are at Pitti. I don’t find it unconventional at all, but Arianna disagrees. I suppose that’s the beauty of fashion in the age of the internet – we can, without a doubt, coexist with any number of counterparts.

Have I mentioned that there’s a FILA booth? We have no plans to enter it, sadly. Yesterday, some guy was rapping from inside, with an audience that seemed more focused on getting their free drinks and leaving than with seeing whatever’s inside. Today, some people are dancing to a “Gettin’ jiggy with it” remix of some sort.They’re trying so hard to recapture their former 90s glory that it’s not surprising that most people are walking past making bemused faces at the logo-bedecked dancers. I’ve mentioned the resurgence of the logo a few times, but I wonder if it, too, has bloomed and died in the span of twelve months.

There are still plenty of people standing in the plaza hoping to get pictures taken of themselves, blogging madly and hoping to be blogged.I think I’m the most bloggable I’ve ever been today, wearing the cloak of birds that my mother made me. I claim immunity from the scene, so I wonder if I really count as one of them – even if an older Italian man made some kind of bird- or dog-clicking sounds at me as I walked to the Fortezza this morning.

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The rest of the day is a staid affair – we look at brands, we talk to people, we take pictures. Arianna makes fun of how long I spend talking to the people at Snow Peak, but I can’t help myself because it’s awesome. Later, in the central pavilion, I see a kind of nerdy looking white guy wearing head-to-toe Kanye West clothing and he looks….kind of depressed. Like he’s wearing thousands of dollars worth of clothing and doesn’t know why he’s bothering if no one is going to congratulate him for it.

There are high points, of course:

  • Merola is showing gloves with a tie silk lining, as well as a touchscreen-friendly range, both of which are quite nice.

    pittilogues pitti uomo 91 pitti 91 merola gloves

    Merola gloves – perfect for cold-weather Pitti photography.

  • Fioroni cashmere is showing a new line of cashmere dyed solely with natural dyes – such as olive and madder.
  • 1st pat-rn will appeal to all fans of Engineerd Garments and the modern workwear movement.
  • There really are a lot of well-dressed men here. Every time I point one out, Arianna dismissively says “oh, they just look Italian. Everyone dresses like that here.” She’s from Italy, so I guess I can’t argue – but I’m still impressed.

I have to say that the positives far outweigh the negatives at this show. We’ve spoken to so many people who are passionate about what they do, whether or not you enjoy the results. In a way it doesn’t matter, because as much as we’re in the market for clothes, we’re in the market for stories – without which, as Arianna sagely tells me, clothes are just objects.

We eat a simple dinner and turn in early, despite the face the waiter makes when we tell him we’re only having one course. My past – pici with a mildly spicy tomato sauce – is delicious. I had forgotten how much I love the pasta here.

Thankfully, I have two days to eat more.

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