Embracing The Styleforum Uniform, with @jcmeyer

The Styleforum uniform security guard look styleforum jcmeyer

Ah, the Styleforum Uniform, affectionately (and sometimes mockingly) referred to as “The Security Guard Look.” At its core, it comprises a navy jacket and grey (or neutral) trousers, with the option of rotating a wide range of colors and styles of footwear, neckwear, jacket silhouettes, and other accoutrements. In this case, @jcmeyer has opted for a trouser that tends towards ‘oatmeal’ in coloration, which helps to take away some of the flatness that pure grey can bring to an outfit. It’s a nice touch, and offers a pleasant depth of color. The tie is a good choice as well, as it’s fall-friendly without being costume-y, and finally, take a look at that collar roll! Finished off with a pair of brown suede chukkas, this is one of the most versatile combinations you can have in your wardrobe. All that remains for you to do is nail the fit and finish of each item – easier said then done, but you can see how much of a difference it makes.

Here’s what @jcmeyer has to say about his take on the Styleforum Uniform:

“I probably do some version of the security guard every week or two. It’s especially good for a few reasons: 

  • one, it takes very little brain power to put a successful combo together with this as the base, which is especially nice now that I don’t get to sleep through the night with an infant in the next room
  • two, it’s akin to a grey or navy suit in that it’s basically invisible to people at the office – in other words you could wear it just about every day and no one would really notice
  • and three, it allows for easy, nearly infinite, variations by accommodating a wide range of ties, shoes, and shirts (collar styles too) and it also gives you the option to change the color of the trousers to oatmeal (like in the pic), tan, and even subdued patterns

As for how to make it distinct, I kinda have to dodge the question by the nature of what I said in my second point above. To me the best part about this look is that it isn’t distinct. Fit and the quality of the items/fabric is going to make you feel good about it, and maybe a few people will notice that, consciously or otherwise, but in the end the best thing is that you blend in. For those of us who wear #menswear to work, that’s actually pretty important!”

Now, the relevance of that last point will of course depend on your job and lifestyle, but I’m not sure I completely agree with @jcmeyer’s impression of the results – buddy, if you didn’t want to stand out, you shouldn’t have done such a good job.


How to Buy Direct from Japan

By Brad Tiller

Have you ever browsed a Japanese webstore and wished you knew how to buy direct from Japan? Follow along as Brad Tiller talks you through the basics of using a ‘proxy’ service.


 

how to buy direct from japan styleforum japanese proxy zenmarket


This article first appeared on Styleforum in 2015.

Publisher’s note: Zenmarket is a Styleforum affiliate. However, this article is not sponsored, and predates that relationship. If you are interested in signing up for Zenmarket via Styleforum and get your first purchase fee free, please go here.

Developing Personal Style with @eddiemczee

You may remember Styleforum member @eddiemczee from a recent post on white denim, but as usual, there’s more to his story. Today, this CM member tells us how he first decided to upgrade his wardrobe, describes the pitfalls he experienced along the way, and reveals his secret to developing personal style.

My descent down the menswear rabbit hole begins with an umbrella.
In 2009, I received my first-ever Christmas bonus. It was also raining a ton and I needed a new umbrella. So instead of saving the money for a figurative rainy day, I decided to go all out on an actual one. I Googled “best umbrella” and after reading a few articles, settled on a Brigg. I knew nothing about the brand other that they had been around for a long time, so I hoped for the best.
When I received it, I discovered that “best” was an understatement. This umbrella became the nicest thing I owned. Made from a continuous piece of maple wood, the umbrella was both stylish and durable. Most important, it felt good to hold.
After that umbrella, the rest of my wardrobe paled in comparison. My closet consisted of cheap dress shirts, ill fitting pants, and squared toe shoes. I wanted to upgrade all my clothes.
I started to follow a lot of menswear blogs where I learned more about fit and construction. I discovered new brands and stores that I had never known about. Soon after, I found Styleforum.
My first Styleforum experience wasn’t on the forum. It was the 10th anniversary party in San Francisco.  At the event, I met Fok and a lot of the affiliate vendors like Epaulet and The Hanger Project. I also made quite a few friends. Afterwards, I made an account and kicked off my forum career with this brilliant thread:
developing personal style styleforum eddiemczee

I actually got helpful advice.

For a long time, I only posted in the Epaulet affiliate thread. I loved the brand and would get excited to see what Mike and Adele were up to next. It also helped that everyone who posted there was super friendly.
As I developed my style, I made some great decisions, but plenty of terrible ones too. My biggest mistake was not focusing on the fundamentals first. I tended to buy things that I thought looked interesting and were on sale. I had a small collection of loud, plaid sport coats but no navy blazer. Without a solid foundation, I created an incohesive closet that made it hard to get dressed.
developing personal style styleforum eddiemczee

When a #menswear closet throws up on you.

After spending way too much on clothes, I stopped buying things for a while and looked through my closet.  Out of all the many, scattered purchases, there were quite a few gems. Items that evoked the same feeling of excitement I had felt when I first bought my Brigg umbrella.
I started to sell a ton of things. As I went through my closet, I used my umbrella as my litmus test. Did this item feel as good as my umbrella did? I was performing the Konmari method before there was a Konmari method. (On a side note: it looks like I missed an opportunity to write a book on this).
developing personal style styleforum eddiemczee

Umbrella still going strong, eight years later.

By 2015, my closet was shrinking more that it was growing. Getting rid of clothes actually helped me hone my style more than any thread I could read. I was able to distill my unwieldy collection of clothes into curated wardrobe of items I loved. Things like a loden tweed sports coat, pebble grain dress boots, and of course, my Brigg umbrella.
The interesting thing was that all these pieces that I kept looked great when worn together. Turns out that I had figured out my personal style – I only had to get rid of the noise that was obscuring it. On the weekdays, I like to wear tailored clothing with sports coats to work. I spend my weekends in workwear and leather jackets. Sometimes I’ll even wear jeans with a sport coat!
Photo 4:
developing personal style styleforum eddiemczee

Current style.

I still browse online stores and read menswear blogs. When I buy clothes now though, I try to only buy things that fill in gaps or upgrade something I already have. I’m much more excited to wear what I already have and develop beautiful patinas.
Styleforum is a great place for a person in any stage of their menswear journey to come and hang out. I’ve since ventured out of my favorite affiliate threads and have even posted some WAYWT pics. I’ve made some good friends through the board and even in real life. A big shout out to Gus for planning all the San Francisco meetups.
Currently, I’ve been taking a ton of inspiration from posters in the WAYWT threads. My current favorite posters include Mossrocks, FrankCowperwood, StanleyVanBuren, and Gerry Nelson. Not only do they all have great style, but also their posts aren’t an endless parade of new items they bought. Instead, I’ll see them all re-wear their favorite garments over and over as we all should.
It’s fun (and expensive) to buy new clothes. But for me, I’m trying to enjoy what I have now versus what I want to get next.

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How to Style a Corduroy Sportcoat with @thefoxtooth

How to Style a Corduroy Sportcoat styleforum

 

Ok, so maybe you don’t have the hair. Or the mustache. Or the musical skill. Or the cat. However, don’t let that stop you from dressing like you do. This week, @thefoxtooth offers up some fantastic autumn inspiration while showing us how to style a corduroy sportcoat, and also gives us a good reason to consider joining the Streetwear and Denim Wes Anderson Challenge.

Corduroy, like flannel, is a fantastic autumn fabric, and earth tones and neutrals make it easy to work into your wardrobe in both tailored and casual contexts. Here, thefoxtooth is wearing his corduroy sport coat with a pair of washed jeans, although the same jacket could certainly be worn with trousers – perhaps a sage green. Similarly, I can imagine the shoes being traded out for a pair of boots – western in style to go with the guitar, or even a country brogue for a slightly different take on the same outfit.

Anyway, the whole thing is awesome, and I really like that thefoxtooth is using corduroy in a way that doesn’t connote ivy-covered brick buildings. I’m sure we’ll start seeing more corduroy as the weather continues to change, so keep this in the back of your mind when you’re working your pieces into regular rotation.

View the original post here

Gus’ Guide to Casual Autumn Style

I always look forward to the change in wardrobe that comes with cooler weather and the colors of autumn. Fall is the time to enjoy plush corduroy, cavalry twill, moleskin, rich tweeds, heavy flannels and deep-colored suedes and leathers. Whether your personal style is modern or classic, great fall menswear allows you mix and match fabrics, neutrals and earth tones with very little effort required to put together great seasonal looks. The following are some of my seasonal favorites to combine with year-round staples for comfort and casual autumn style.

Quilted Vest

Casual Autumn Style styleforum

Worn with any shirt or sweater and paired with jeans or corduroys, a quilted vest projects an air of warm nonchalance. This isn’t the tailored vest look of your three-piece suit. Instead, the quilted vest has a country pedigree that is ideal for travel, football games or a visit to your favorite café on a chilly morning. It is an ideal transitional garment from cool to cold weather – so when winter arrives, it also becomes a practical layering piece worn under your favorite coat. A few of my favorites are the green Barbour Waxed Cotton Vest at Sierra Trading Post ($179), Parisian label Kitsune’s quilted grey herringbone tweed vest ($399) and Paul Stuart’s quilted, down filled, dark brown leather vest with a wool lining($1,487). And my favorite? These exclusive Monitaly quilted vests, shown above, $365 at No Man Walks Alone. Perfect with cords, jeans and a chambray shirt for your next craft beer tasting event. Any of these will serve you well for years to come.

Donegal and Fair Isle Socks

Casual Autumn Style styleforum

Paired with your favorite boots, moccasins, or LL Bean Hunting boots, thick wool and alpaca or mohair-blend socks are guaranteed to keep you warm. Donegal flecks or Fair Isle patterns add autumnal color to your wardrobe, and no one will confuse these with your typical dress socks. My favorites for many years have been from the British mill Scott-Nichol where they know a thing or two about avoiding chilly feet. An excellent source is O’Connell’s in Buffalo, NY, which carries several brands including Scott- Nichol ($28-$35). Paul Stuart also offers Donegal socks and a heavy wool mohair blend in rich fall colors ($42.50).

Brown Rubber-Soled Shoes

Casual Autumn Style styleforum
For casual comfort and classic fall style it’s hard to beat a pair of dark brown chukkas or derbies with a substantial rubber sole. My favorites have Dainite, Ridgeway or similar style rubber soles originally intended for field use but are equally practical in urban settings especially in rain and snow. You can dress them up with a tweed jacket or corduroy suit, and they will always look great with your favorite leather jacket. I take a pair on fall and winter trips to battle the cobblestoned streets of London or Paris, and with silicon waterproofing, suede is as weatherproof as anything out there. Take a look at the Paraboot Chambord Tex Gringo ($511) at Unionmade and Heschung Ebene Leather Derby ($485) at Mr. Porter. Or, for an altogether lighter look and modern aesthetic, check out Bontoni’s brown leather sneaker ($595) at Wilkes Bashford.

Scarf

Casual Autumn Style styleforum

A scarf isn’t only practical for warmth; it also offers an opportunity to add an accent of color or texture. A few of my favorites for fall are simple herringbone patterns or multicolored prints in burgundy, purple or a muted “paprika” color. But it’s also nice to have at least one colorful mixed print. For casual style avoid shiny silks and reserve those for formal business attire. My favorite expressive scarves seem to come from the Italian brand Etro ($270), which is available at Nordstrom or Neiman Marcus. There are also more whimsical options such as the Drakes London animal print scarves($470) at Barneys or 19 Andrea’s 47 colorful prints (GBP295) from Exquisite Trimmings.

Fair Isle Sweater 

Casual Autumn Style styleforum
You probably already have plenty of solid navy and grey in your wardrobe so why not add some pattern? Popularized by the Duke of Windsor, Fair Isle sweaters originated on the tiny Shetland Islands and are a cold weather favorite. My wife grew up on the Islands and has fond memories of local women hand knitting these colorful sweaters, gloves and hats. Their distinctive rows of multi-colored geometric patterns add punch to Fall’s typical, muted solids. There are many copies, but to be a true Fair Isle it must be knit on the Shetland Islands, as is this one by Jamieson’s ($195), available from No Man Walks Alone.

Knit Ribbed Hat 

Casual Autumn Style styleforum

A classic fisherman’s knit ribbed hat seems to make any guy look bit more manly. I especially like the look of this Donegal tweed example in navy wool and cashmere by Inis Meain ($100) at No Man Walks Alone. For those who like cotton, try the black indigo dyed watch cap from RRL ($85).


This article was originally published on Styleforum.net in 2015

Dressing Well When You’re Tall

CM regular and well-dressed dude @Chocsosa is 6’8, which you may remember from his member focusWe asked him to share some of his tips for dressing well when you’re tall, and he obliged with both personal insights and some good rules to follow.


Starting out trying to build a functioning wardrobe of your dreams is not for the faint of heart. That is one of the first things I came to realize when I started this journey 15 years ago. Of course, things were very different for me then. Information was not as free flowing as it is now in relation to the nexus of style and quality.

I made a lot of mistakes early on trying to figure out what worked for me. To be honest, I’m glad I made those mistakes, because it was a journey I needed to take to figure out who I wanted to be. I know that it sounds very cliché but it’s interesting right now that I look and certain looks and think to myself: “You know, that looks good, but that’s not for me. It’s not something I would want to wear for myself.”

It takes time to get there. However, when you do get there, to me it’s sartorial nirvana. You are comfortable in whatever you are in because it works for who you are – and in the process, you save yourself money. For me, it was a relief to figure out what worked for me and dress down my height as much as possible. I know, tall people problems. However, this is something I struggled with for a very long time.


Measurements

it’s hard for tall people. I would trade my height in right now for something shorter if I could, because it’s more of a deterrent than a help. Cars are never big enough, long flights are always a pain, stares can be annoying, and clothing can be a lesson in futility if you don’t know what you are doing.

First thing I suggest is really know your body in terms of measurements. My brother in law will run purchases by me from time to time. He does not know the intricacies of online shopping, so he will see a blazer in his supposed ‘size’ and he will purchase it. The said blazer arrives and it is either too tight or too big all over. He is learning that every label has their interpretation of varied sizes and the only way to navigate that craziness is to really know your measurements and check the listed measurements being sold online (whether on Ebay or an online site for a label). If a seller does not put measurements then I ain’t buying. That mantra has saved me money the last couple of years.


The Financial Investment 

Saving money is a wonderful thing, but understand that with height come certain financial realities. I love a deal when I get my hands on one, but I also understand that most of those deals are not for people of my size. It kills me to scour Ebay to see something in my size and then look at the measurements and see that the inseam is nowhere near what I need it to be to work.

Never compromise on this. I promise you that you will regret it. With that out of the way, you must understand (if you are really tall, like over 6’3), a lot of the time you are going to have to pay the price on a NWT item. I have a 38-inch inseam and I love me some cuffs on my pants. This means I must find a pair of pants with an inseam of 44 inches. Do you know how hard that is? I will rarely get that with a pre-owned item. That’s why I thank my lucky stars for Ebay. I may not buy a lot of pre-owned items, but I am able to get a high end RTW item at a huge discount versus going into a store and trying to purchase them. When I do find a pre-owned item that’s within the parameters of an acceptable fit, then I have my tailor work on it to make it work for me.


Tailors and Tailoring

Knowing what you want out of tailoring and having an awesome tailor is key. My size presents a whole host of issues when it comes to tailoring and tailors in general. I’m 6’8. I have broad shoulders and a somewhat barrel chest. I have a 9 inch drop and long limbs.

When I was searching for potential tailors it was tough, because I had tailors trying to force their view on how something should fit on me which would go against what I saw for myself. You have to stand your ground and tell them that they can either help you achieve what you are looking for (as long as it’s do-able and in somewhat good taste) or that you’ll keep looking. However, you also have to understand the boundaries of tailoring for your height. My tailor always says it’s better to take in than to let out. What this means is I have been able to re-cut a suit from a size or two up down to my size, but it’s virtually impossible to take a suit from a smaller size to make it a size bigger.


Silhouette

Silhouette has also played a huge role in what I look for in clothing. The silhouette that I go for differs between what kind of clothing I am looking at, but each article of clothing I pick has to look the way I want it to look for myself. Suits/sports coats are usually a mixture for me. For the most part I am partial to a structured look (strong shoulders, built up chest and nipped waist) but, when it comes to sports coats, that can differ. Soft or structured does not matter as long as it works for my body.

When I am looking at outerwear pieces, then that’s pretty simple. I like a higher armhole and a slim profile. The main problem I run into is sleeve length, and that’s where patience becomes a virtue in the search for something that fits. A short jacket does no favors for a tall guy, but a long jacket can make a fit look a little less contemporary. So I always try to find the middle ground when it comes to jacket length. I also favor a slightly lower button stance. I think with a somewhat longer jacket it can do wonders for a tall frame.

It really comes down to how you want to build your wardrobe. Your mental image of the tall person you’re trying to bring to life should encompass your personality, your emotions, and how you see yourself. You have to keep in mind, however, that it’s a journey, and you are going to make some costly mistakes along the way. If you are committed you will eventually get where you want to be with your wardrobe. That’s been true for me, and I am still learning something new all the time.

7 Member Tips for Developing Your Style

Styleforum’s members have built a reputation for offering fantastic, if highly opinionated, tips for great men’s style. They range from simple suggestions to take to your tailor, to complete philosophies encompassing life, the universe, and everything.

Are you looking for rules? Guidelines? Confirmation that your own way is the best way? Here, some of Styleforum’s best-regarded members give their take on developing your style


“Instead of spending so much time and energy learning about clothing and style, I spend more and more time taking good care of my health (physically and biopsychosocially) as Mr. Armani alluded to with exercising, eating, drinking, and sleeping well. I am also more choosy about who’s ideas I take to be of value (his “friends”).

As much as “what’s stylish?” is on my brain and pursuits, so is “whats physically, mentally, and socially healthy?”

In short, less collecting and more selecting, while maintaining a healthy overall balance.”

– @mmkn

 

“Why do we really needs such extensive rules??????????

Surely good sense and style are entirely unwritten things – rules are for those of little discernment.”

– GBR

 

“Style often has to do with strategically breaking the rules. Certain stylistic tendencies can be a product of upbringing or social class and almost impossible to articulate. Mostly, it’s a matter of what one — and others — finds aesthetically pleasing, and this depends more than anything on innate sensibilities. It’s not amenable to lists of rules, and going by the pronouncements of various fashion magazine idiota pushing some hidden agenda is bound to confuse the issue.”

– Nantucket Red

 

“I hesitate, in the context of “modern” dressing, to ever use the words “should”, “never” and “always”. I think that it is much more accurate to use the phrases “For most men, and especially for those who are becoming interested in clothing and style for the first time, the following guidelines will usually prevent them from looking ridiculous”, “On most men, XYZ usually does not look good for the following reasons ABC”, and “In general, I have found that”.

If you adhere to a prescribed, archaic style, then determining a set of rules is relatively easy, because that style has come and gone, and thus, static in history. However, “modern” conventions are extremely fluid, and what may be acceptable in 2007 may be ridiculous, or at least quite dated, by in 2010 (if the style is directional) or in 2015 (if the style is quite conservative.)”

– LA Guy

 

“Keep in shape – the single most important thing you can do. Then deal with the clothes…”

– Gutman

 

 

“When working from home a jacket and tie is simply self serving. It would be like wearing a football helmet to watch the Sunday game. However nothing says you can’t look good no matter where you are. What is a person to do when an unexpected guest comes over? Magically insert oneself into stylish clothes? No, always be able to answer looking respectable enough to confidently greet a colleague.

In Canada, where the weather is colder, it is perfectly acceptable to wear a dress shirt with a sweater around the house. Comfortable trousers and house shoes might be a good bet also. If you want to be even more casual you can still wear a t shirt but make it a v neck in some interesting colors with chinos and house shoes. During warmer weather I will sometimes wear something similar so that if I need to go out I can slip on some shoes and a flat cap and be on my way.”

– Caustic Man

 

“The best advice I think any of us can give you is peruse the WAYWRN threads…see what our poster boys wear and then take what you like to make your own style.”

– KPO89

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Member Tips: Dress Well While Losing Weight

Many men struggle to dress well while losing weight – especially if it’s a large amount of weight. It can be difficult to know what, if anything, to buy while your body is changing. However, many Styleforum members have gone through the same transformation, and if you find yourself in a similar position it may reassure you to know that you’re not alone.

Here, we’ve compiled some of the best member-submitted tips about how to handle a wardrobe while dropping pounds, and how to look forward to building a new closet. We’ve also included a handful of inspiration photos to help you hone in on your style throughout the process.

The following responses were originally posted in this thread, while the following inspiration photos have been taken from Styleforum’s various WAYWT threads.


“If you don’t have a job that requires suits, no need to invest there. Go to a local store and try on some dress shirts that fit you well…Try and get a spread collar in a white, blue, striped, and pattern to carry you through any interviews/weddings/events, etc. Invest in flat front pants, standard rise, no more than 8.5″ at cuffs. Get blue, grey, and one black.

For casual fits, get a few pairs of well fitting Levis and som

e crisp new polo shirts in new colors. Shoes – plenty of other shoe posters more knowledgeable than me to offer help there, but find the basics and get them.”

– Spoopoker

 

“Don’t spend a lot of money now. Buy interim clothes until your weight stabilizes. I wouldn’t drop big bucks until I hit my goal weight and managed to stay there. If you’re like most people, you’ll go up and down, especially at first.

In the meantime, look around and decide what you like. Check out WAYW and flip through Esquire and the like. Then think about how you could incorporate the styles you like into your own wardrobe.”

– DocHolliday

 

“Finding a good tailor should be your first goal, then go for a progressive move towards better quality and fitting clothes. Do not underestimate the effect of a good tailor. Looks for sales of quality stuff and good shoes.”

– Eight

 

” Look at your situation right now as research, research, research while you move towards your end goals. Sure, you want cool better looking stuff now – and it’s hard to argue when you’ve already lost 30lbs, I’d want to reward myself too. But if you’re not done yet, don’t bother. You’ll end up junking everything again or tailoring the heck out of it…Go crush it in the gym and think about the Partenopea you’re going to score in a couple more months.

Seriously, keep your powder dry for now – stockpile cash for once you get rid of your self described gut and use that as a motivator (“I’m not getting that 42 blazer until I can fit in it,proper!”). Once you get there, or near there, you’ll be ready to go big.

That said, maybe a couple of better items in the meantime, but think of them as a bridge from where you’re at to where you’re going – ie. disposable. Otherwise you’re going to waste a lot of money, time and effort – trust me (us!).”

– razl

 

“Been there, doing that. I still have 30 pounds to go, so I can speak from first hand experience of how frustrating it has been. I’ve dropped 145 pounds in the last 2 years, but have gained and lost the same 15 pounds repetitively over the last year.

But more to the point, I have also held off having any major suits or coats added to my wardrobe at this point, till I reach and maintain my goal for at least 6 months. But in the meantime, you can do what I do, and pay more attention to the smaller details, i.e., shoes, socks, ties, belts ( which can be shortened very easily by a cobbler) and if they suit you, even the smaller things like cufflinks and wallets, etc.

While most of these things aren’t wardrobe staples, it is fun to pick up things like these as a reward for the progress you make. Even things like dress shirts can be bought now, since your neckline wont likely shrink much more, but at least not enough to affect casual fitting shirts like a classic oxford cloth button down.
And these can be tapered in at the sides and sleeves if necessary by any competent tailor.

But save the suits, sports coats and dress pants, even the casual chinos and such till after you settle out. A pair or two of jeans would be fine, but just keep in mind you’ll likely replace them in about 3 more months.”

– Chips

 

“Just finished the same journey – lost 70 pounds over the past 15 months. Advice:

  1. Spend as little as you can until you hit goal weight. All you really need is one pair of jeans (levi’s are fine for now), one pair of khakis, grey wool trousers, a pair of khaki shorts (since you live in Florida), and maybe some other light-weight semi-nice pair of slacks (I went for seersucker). For shirts, a nice white tee shirt (I liked Alternative Apparel) a couple of polos (two of your favorite / most complimentary colors), a short sleeve linen or cotton shirt, a long sleeve cotton or linen shirt (white and blue), and maybe a rugby shirt. Be disciplined and try not to buy anything else. But as you loose weight, keep buying new items to replace the old. This is your way of rewarding yourself and staying good looking during your slide down the weight scale.
  2. If you want to spend, spend on ties. But since you don’t wear suits every day, you don’t really need to do that unless you just love ties.
  3. As you lose weight, your feet will narrow. Buying shoes now will mean that, when you’ve lost all the weight you plan on losing, your shoes will be too wide. Wait on this … trust me.
  4. Use your weight-loss time to keep reading about clothes and keep your eyes open. You think you like X now, but a couple of months from now, you might start migrating to look Z. A lot of people get the bug and discover how to dress well with a bunch of patterns and colors only to discover down the road that a more pared-down, monochromatic look is their preferred style. No need to rush anything during your weight loss though.
  5. Plan your purchases in advance. Make a budget for what you’re going to do when you hit goal weight and research what you will want. Try to resist the temptation to buy a lot – better to keep a smaller wardrobe that is high on quality than a larger wardrobe that is somewhat lower on quality. Replacing a wardrobe is very expensive, so you need to be disciplined about what you really need versus what you might want. A secondary benefit of this is that your “dream” wardrobe (that is, your planned purchases) will be a wonderful incentive to keep going – a big psychological reward at the end of the tunnel. That helped me a lot. A tertiary benefit of a high-quality wardrobe when it’s all done is that it increases the marginal cost of subsequent weight gain. You just invested a ton on some really great clothes – if you start going up the scales again, they will all have to go. That should provide some degree of deterrence.”

– J. Cogburn


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Member Focus: Protagonist Style with WBaker

WBaker is a denizen of the Streetwear and Denim subforum, and mostly favors brands that make him look like a movie protagonist. Here, he tells the story of a moment that made him think about the way he dresses, and even the way he thinks about clothing.


“Your jackets’ on inside out”

‘Chayyim’ is the code word. Take a left out my front door and you’ll trip into the block’s corner bar, a busy basement where the going rate for a stool is half an hour on the curb. You say ‘Chayyim’ to the door guy. Chayyim is the owner, so he’s not to be confused with the toast ‘l’chaim’. Once you’ve ‘Chayyim’d’ yourself past the door guy someone will sherpa you down a flight of stairs that make you realize how bad stairs can be. The door at the bottom opens to a low-ceilinged, bowling-lane-sized bar. The stools are for people who waited on that sidewalk; you’ll stand on a perfectly empty two square foot plot of land at the edge of the bar. I see this as a plus, drinking to the point of oblivion on a bar stool comes without the buckling and bending alarm system thoughtfully provided by the legs.

One late night, drink in hand, I stood alone following protocol. Saying ‘Chayyim’ doesn’t guarantee a plus one. On this night, however, a friend of a friend’s roommate’s landlord – a random lady – decided she was my plus one.

I like my two by two at the bar because it looks like I got in trouble and people aren’t supposed to talk to me. Mind you this isn’t that ‘saucy bad boy’ type of don’t talk to me, rather its that ‘I might talk at you about Japanese Blade Runner Blaster model kits for three hours’ type of don’t talk to me. When I go to a bar alone I talk to my drink, and find most beverages to be well spoken.

“Your shoes are all ‘GQ’, how much did you spend on them?” she said, taking perhaps her first stab ever at talking to another person.

“Tomenosuke used way too light an amber tint in the resin for their blaster grips, considering how well they got the knurling…” I gurgled into my drink.

She called my cardigan ugly. Asked if it was on inside out. Suddenly I felt like I was on the receiving end of some negging pickup routine ala The Game: See How You Like It.

“I mean if they’re gonna get the underside of the Steyr .222 bolt action dead-on with a working receiver, why cop out on a spray gun paint job over vacuum metalizing…” I said, abiding by the cone of silence that is Chayyim’s 2×2.

She was setting up this point about, to quote her, how “A portrait is any painting in which there is something wrong with the mouth”, thereby meaning she liked my outfit because the cardigan was wrong. She spoke with this bullshit-meter-ticking ‘just thought of that’ tone. I’ll admit to listening to Radiolab and stealing its better talking points for casual conversation with friends, so maybe the devil met the devil that night.

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She said she was an artist, and to prove it she gave me a business card that did in fact say “Artist” on it. I want to get business cards that only say “You just gave me a business card and I didn’t want you to feel left out”.

I’ll have to talk with Chayyim about upgrading to a three by three one day. Maybe Geller will make a “do not pet” vest I can don like a service dog.


Like a top 5 song, the portrait shtick bounced around my head for a week or two after. I’m hasty to mistrust others so I did some googling and it’s a quote from John Sargent, a new-to-me turn of the century American painter. Oh sweet nirvana! Not only did I learn something new, but my reflexive mistrust had been vindicated. There are only so many days in one’s life where you can both learn something new and be proven right. I’ve learned to hold dearly to those fleeting moments.

As I first got into dressing myself with gusto I made the error of becoming obsessed with the individual garment. I’d hunt for these epic-overdone-protagonist pieces because when they’re draped alone on a white plaster mannequin they seem like the solution to life’s problems. I got into garments that excited me from the hanger without even thinking about the outfits they’d be Frankenstein’d into.

I started posting outfits onto Styleforum around 2011 to mostly negative response, and rightly so. Once combined, my “über-cool” pieces were a muddled mess. Without strangers on the internet and even stranger ladies in bars I’d still dress like The Dude got hired by UPS:

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Mr. Sargent’s words capture how visually satisfying it can be to defy a base reality. Hearing a trite line about portraits broke my habit of dressing in a way that was putting sprinkles on my sprinkles. I found my outfits more exciting when the effort I put into the crazy stuff was matched with the effort I put into my basics. Basic button downs, trousers, and T’s can make a better canvas for when I wanna wear that single button belted officer jacket and cream side-zips.

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How to Style White Jeans with @eddiemczee

style white jeans

I think that a pair of cream trousers is one of the most enjoyable and versatile garments to be had in a man’s wardrobe, and I’m likewise a fan of white or cream jeans. That said, some men may struggle with how to style them. It’s understandable, given that denim is a relatively rugged fabric generally associated with workwear, and as white is usually a warm-weather color, not many people are interested in wearing denim when it’s hot out – especially as it’s not known for being breathable.

Fall, then, is really the perfect time to ignore the rule about white after Labor Day (we all know it’s bunk anyway) and pull out your white jeans. That means, however, knowing how to style them. Ignore the advice about heavy boots and denim – nothing looks more awkward than a heavy workboot and white pants. Instead, opt for either a slim, lighter boot, a pair of sneakers, or as @eddiemczee shows here, loafers. His are cuffed, but white jeans usually end up being easier to hem than washed denim, as the stitching is less noticeable and you’re less likely to alter the wash in a funky way. Don’t be afraid to buy white jeans with no or minimal break, as they arguably work better for these purposes than dark jeans do. Just don’t buy white jeans too slim, as not only does it mean you’ll run hotter, but white denim has a very real sausage casing effect when the thighs are too tight.

If you find a comfortable fit, however, you’ll realize just how versatile they can be. As Eddie says:

“The great thing about white jeans is that they can be worn casually and with tailored clothing. In the summer, I like to wear them with a linen button-down and navy blazer or denim jacket. In the winter, I’ll sometimes wear them with a navy sweater and olive field jacket and boots…I wear jeans over trousers when I want my outfit to look more casual. For white jeans, I feel like they’re the perfect middle ground between standard indigo denim and trousers. Plus, if you wear them to a picnic and get some stains on them, you can just throw them in the wash instead of having to dry clean them.”

This is another look that doesn’t need to break the bank, and exemplifies the standard Styleforum philosophy of spending your money on shoes and outerwear. White denim and chambray shirts can be found anywhere, including the Levi’s sale rack. The Land’s End model that Eddie’s wearing has a comfortable rise and leg, however, and is a good choice if you’re planning to wear loafers regularly. While a nicer leather jacket is almost always worth the expense, there are of course models that won’t set you back quite as much. Eddie let me know that his A-1 came from Schott’s ‘Perfecto’ line, from which you can often find steals. Unfortunately, that has since sold out, but if it is ever restocked you can expect to pay a bit less than you would for the Valstar jacket featured below.