Outfit Inspiration: SprezzaTrash

SprezzaTrash (or Ethan), as you may know, is a big fan of thrifting and of vintage styles. Most of the time, he’s wearing vintage tailoring, but I liked this outfit in particular because it could have come from just about any decade, and offers a nice blend of vintage styles that still looks contemporary. Ethan suggests that it’s his take on Bryceland’s style, but it might be more recognizable as a take on the late Bill Cunningham’s signature look:

Bill Cunningham – Image c. Fashables.com

That certainly doesn’t take anything away from how nice it looks, of course, and Ethan’s interpretation is a bit more tailored. If you’re familiar with the Teba jacket, the chore jacket operates similarly here, albeit as a slightly more casual choice of outerwear. In any case, this combination also a great base for a casual outfit – the tie can be removed, the derbies swapped out for sneakers, etc.

If you’re looking for a bleu de travail, there are a number of companies that offer them. Vetra offers a very classic, shape, while Carrier Company also produces a work-ready version, though They don’t come pre-worn, however, so if want you want is sweet fades or patching, I’d suggest searching Etsy for bleu de travail, where you’ll be able to find a selection of vintage pieces in varying shades of blue. The rich indigo color is, obviously the draw.

Weekend Reading from Around the Web: August 27, 2017

If you didn’t get a chance to read these pieces, you’re missing out. This weekend, broaden your mind with some diverse writing on men’s fashion.


jun takahashi new york times styleforum weekend reading

Photo: The New York Times

Jun Takahashi: The Sorcerer of Fashion // The New York Times

Gaby Wood explores the world of Japanese artist Jun Takahashi, and places the designer’s personal history alongside that of his brand, Undercover.

Excerpt:

“Undercover’s early shows were run guerrilla-style, in warehouses and parking lots, with friends turning up to model, many of them drunk and argumentative. The press was relegated to the back row, while Takahashi’s cohort of fans sat in front, on the floor.”


riki brockman styleforum weekend reading

Photo: GQ

Meet Riki Brockman, the Future of Savile Row // GQ

In June, Riki Brockman, a relative newcomer to Savile Row, won the 25th Golden Shears. His is a name you’ll no doubt see more in the coming years, so take this chance to familiarize yourself with his background if you haven’t already. 

Excerpt:

“Outside of work I wear ripped jeans, a cap and a bomber jacket, and I suppose I don’t look like a traditional cutter from Savile Row. I love making suits and the tradition, but it doesn’t dictate who I am or how I dress. There are rules to tailoring, but as long it’s made from tailored cloth, it’s tailored.”


Stefano Ricci styleforum weekend reading

Photo: Stefano Ricci

Heritage And Fine Craftsmanship With Stefano Ricci And The $100,000 Bag // Forbes

In the world of menswear, heritage and tradition have become as sought after as brand names, if not more so, and luxury brands have begun to struggle with how best to preserve their history. In this piece, read about Stefano Ricci’s take on balancing the modern and innovative with the traditional.

Excerpt:

“In 2009, Stefano Ricci purchased the silk factory which fittingly dates back to the 14th century. Just as the process of the cocoon of the worm fed with mulberry leads to the silk fabric itself, innovation continues with the considerable work of experienced hands and the unique formation of the very often made-to-measure cloths to fulfill the desires  of the most refined clientele. Indeed, how a company manages it’s skilled artisans can tell you a lot about the state of its stability and progression.”


Photo: Jack Nichol

‘Extreme ironing’ adds challenging wrinkle to a simple hike // KOMO news

Have you ever considered dragging an ironing board out into the middle of the wilderness? No? Well, consider it.

Excerpt:

“We were immediately faced with the problem of getting the ironing board out of the hotel through the lobby, which Paul solved by wrapping a coat around the board, and his arm around the coat, as if he were walking his ‘date’ to dinner.”

Great Styleforum Classifieds Listings

If you haven’t checked our B&S section recently, you’re missing out. Here are some great Styleforum classifieds listings that offer great style and great value.


Suits

Pal Zilieri Sartoriale summer suit, sz. 36 – 575 GBP

Brunello Cucinelli 100% Fine Wool Tweed 2-Piece Suit Size 50/40 US – $650

Orazio Luciano wool mohair suits, sz. 48 – $850

Eidos Navy Solaro suit, sz 36 – $630

 

SEE MORE SUITS


Shoes

Carlos Santos field boots, sz. UK 7.5 – $335

Alden unlined tan LHS, size 7.5D – 200

J. Fitzpatrick Madison penny loafer, size 8.5 – $180

Zespa ZSP4, size 42 – $100

Epaulet MTO museum calf trainers, size 10.5 – $225

Gaziano & Girling ‘Sinatra’ wholecut, sz. 11UK – $829

Eidos x Christian Kimber suede chukka boots, sz. 11.5 – $175

 

SEE MORE SHOES


Sport Coats

Corneliani wool/silk/linen SC, size 42L – $359

Isaia jackets x2, s. 46 and 48 – $95

Sartoria Partenopea white sport coat, peak lapesl. Sz. 36r – $350

Ring Jacket grey sport coat, sz 44-46 – $250

Eidos windowpane sport coat w/suede elbow patches, sz. 38 – $290

 

SEE MORE SPORT COATS


Outerwear

Brunello Cucinelli wool/cashmere/silk DB quilted jacket, sz. XL – $540

Engineered Garments long mac/rain coat, sz. M – $190 

Luigi Bianchi Mantova basketweave overcoat, sz. 56 – $445

Incarnation black leather jacket, sz. M – $1,350

 

SEE MORE OUTERWEAR


Accessories and Cloth

Ties: EG Capelli, Drake’s, Panta, Tie Your Tie, Yellow Hook, Marinella – $85

 

CARLO BARBERA, LOVAT MILLS, ZEGNA, PORTER AND HARDING, WILLIAM HALSTEAD CLOTH – $70

Ermenegildo shepherd’s check cloth, 2.5m – $250

 

SEE MORE ACCESSORIES

Great Styleforum Member Outfits, Aug. 7-21

It’s hard to look good in the heat of summer. When August rolls around, most of us are more concerned with avoiding the heat or dreaming of autumn collections than we are with staying put together. That’s not the case for all of our members, though. As you’ll see from this gallery of great Styleforum member outfits, the best among us manage to look great no matter the month. Whether you’re interested in Classic Menswear, Streetwear & Denim, or a combination of the two, we hope you’ll find some inspiration in the photos below – enough, at least, to take you through to the changing leaves.

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How to Dress like Cleav

cleav outfit inspiration styleforum dress like cleav styleforum

Our man @Cleav dresses the way that many users of Styleforum aspire to dress: impeccably, gentlemanly, and fuss-free from head to toe. This week, I want to focus on an outfit he recently shared that shows off how strong a relatively simple combination can be when it’s put together perfectly.

First of all, @Cleav’s suit exemplifies why navy is still a men’s wardrobe essential. Paired here with a striped shirt, earthy-red tie, and split-toe derby shoes, it shines purely on the merits of the perfect fit, and is complemented – rather than overshadowed – by the accessories @Cleav has chosen. While this is certainly a more conservative combination than most of what is now shown on Instagram feeds or in Pitti write-ups, many beginners nonetheless struggle to understand that you don’t necessarily need a more complex outfit to stand out. In fact, part of what distinguishes @Cleav is that his outfit choices are consistently executed to perfection, without the distractions of gaudy fabrics, experimental cuts, or overbearing accessories.

Of course, in order to look as good as @Cleav does, you need to make sure your suit fits perfectly, you need to know how to choose a shirt that’s not too busy, and you need to know when a loud accessory is unnecessary. When you’ve managed all that, you’re left with a foundation that’s not just versatile, but sharp enough to pay respect to both the wearer and whatever event he happens to be attending.

Bravo to Cleav, for showing the rest of us how it’s done.

 


Note: this article has been corrected as of 8/21 to reflect that @Cleav is wearing a navy suit, not charcoal as originally written.

 

Nesting and Cutting Leather with Grant Stone

Grant Stone is a footwear company that focuses on making high-quality Goodyear-welted shoes and boots. With decades of experience in shoemaking, their offerings focus on comfort, well-made lasts, and a product that will last a lifetime. They offered to take us behind the scenes to take a look at one of the most important aspects of shoemaking: nesting and cutting the leather that will make a pair of shoes.

Grant Stone is an Affiliate Vendor on Styleforum. You can discuss the brand further on their affiliate thread here


Goodyear-welt construction consists of many steps which can vary depending on the footwear being made as well as on the materials. In this article we want to touch on one of the first processes and why we feel it’s so important.

First and foremost, every factory or brand has their internal standards and direction. This, combined with the material and construction, creates a guideline for manufacturing. In welted footwear, one side of the spectrum would be bespoke and the other would be volume production. Given the type of shoes we are aspiring to make, we try to ask ourselves, what would a bespoke maker do? The answer is usually a basic, proven method. However, bespoke methods will require more time and sometimes revolves around materials that aren’t used in volume production. If we want to make a great product and set a precedent for each department, this helps us look in the right direction.

Grant stone styleforum cutting leather nesting leather

Nesting patterns onto the leather is the first step to making the shoe or boot upper and is one of the most important. “Nesting” is when a person methodically maps out the upper patterns onto the leather hide. This allows the person to closely inspect the article and avoid any blemishes while utilizing the majority of the hide. It’s one of the most critical steps for a few reasons. For a factory, this is where money can be made or lost. It is a difficult job because there isn’t a straight-forward Standard Operating Procedure, and you may not know the result of a decision made until the shoe is nearly finished. For example, a questionable piece of leather may look okay once the shoe is lasted as the upper is supported. Once you remove the last, the upper may show wrinkling or other issues which were not apparent.

Grant stone styleforum cutting leather nesting leather

Every leather acts differently when it comes to aesthetics and performance. The pattern being used also plays a large factor, as some are broken in to multiple pieces while others can be a large, single pattern, which can make it difficult to find a suitable area on the hide. Even when sourcing leather from world-renowned tanneries, properly cutting the pattern (including direction) is critical. The majority of high-end footwear leathers are tanned with aniline dyes which purposely reveal the natural characteristics of the leather. While the transparency gives the leather a certain depth and character, it also exposes the blemishes such as veins or scars. It’s quite common to find subtle lines throughout the best areas of the article which tend to be near the rear-end of the animal, just beside the backbone. This part of the animal’s skin has endured less movement and encounters less everyday abuse such as cuts and scrapes.

Pictured below is a cow hide used on casual footwear which has a high wax and oil content. This article has an exaggerated “pull-up” effect which means the oils and waxes inside the article are able to move around freely. Not only does this give the article a lot of character, this will keep the article hydrated over the years when enduring water and other elements. When this article is pulled over the last, the oils and waxes are drawn out of the article highlighting the base color of the leather. This type of leather (especially in lighter colors) can be quite difficult because some blemishes that were not visible due to the oils will appear after lasting.

Grant stone styleforum cutting leather nesting leather

When mapping out the leather, cutting an extra half pair from a hide will improve yields but if the shoe is pulled aside later on in the stitching or lasting department due to quality issues such as excessive wrinkling or blemishes, the loss is much greater than just avoiding that part of the hide to begin with.

The standard comes down to the type of footwear being made, the cost and what the consumer expects. A bespoke maker might only cut one pair of shoes from an entire hide, while a volume manufacturer with very competitive pricing will try to use every last bit of the article. We have to find a middle ground, but tend be more cautious with our cutting, as we understand that there will be fewer issues later in the process and end product will be sound, as our customer expects.

Marks such as scars can’t be used on this type of footwear, so they are avoided altogether. If we had to summarize our cutting standard, we might say that we focus more on the overall grain structure. While most of the loose grain is near the edges of the article or the belly area, loose grain can also be found in the center of the article. To avoid using these areas, the person nesting has to inspect the area, lightly moving or flexing the leather to see how it reacts. This will give an indication of how the leather will look if it’s flexed during the make process or on the finished shoe. Another way to check is not only on the surface of the leather, but the flesh side. The below photo shows the grain side and flesh side of a prime area (A), versus the belly area (B). It is clear how the belly area has wrinkles on the surface and how it translates to loose fibers on the flesh side. While loose grain is usually considered a cosmetic concern, it can affect the integrity of the shoe as loose fibers are not as strong.

Grant stone styleforum cutting leather nesting leather

If there is an area we might be more lenient when cutting, it might be color variation within a pair. While it isn’t desirable for the right and left shoe to be two different hues, minimal color variation does not cause performance concerns and usually can be alleviated with hand stains and creams in the finishing room. Using these methods to finish the leather allows for deeper color while not concealing the natural grain or base colors. Since these leathers are not pigmented, there are multiple shades of color within an article and they will continue to change overtime due to the outside elements and wear.

Below is a photo of a new longwing being broken in, flexing the vamp. After flexing this shoe one time, it is clear there will be a clean vamp break and the leather has a tight grain. While the colors and other attributes may change overtime with wear, the vamp break will stay for the life of the shoe.

  Grant stone styleforum cutting leather nesting leather

 


This is sponsored content. To learn more about Grant Stone, visit their affiliate thread here. To shop the collection, click here

Styleforum’s Most Popular Brands: Summer, 2017

While Styleforum’s diverse cast of members can be counted on to both discover and argue over the merits of countless brands, both casual and tailored, there are a few names which, year after year, occupy the top slot in the interest of our internet tribe. This summer, we’re featuring another selection of Styleforum’s most popular brands.


Acronym

acronym styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum

The Dream: Tokyo at night. You crouch in a shadowed alleyway, hiding from The Corporation, while your corneal implant tracks the agents sent to follow you. They want you – not because of the state-toppling secret you carry on the drive hidden on your person, but because you’re special, destined to overthrow the shadow-government, score a sweet babe, and ride a motorcycle in the movie adaptation.

The Reality: You spent way too much money on pants you found third-hand on the internet. People call you “Naruto,” and it’s not a compliment.


Buttero

buttero styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum buttero shoes buttero sneakers

The Dream: You’re a cowboy. An Italian cowboy. You look, always, as though you may have just gotten off a motorcycle after a trip to a vineyard. And when you wear sneakers, you make sure they’re more than just sneakers. Like your motorcycle boots, they’re made in a family-owned factory in Italy, out of fantastic materials and in fantastic make-ups. They’re sneakers for real men, sneakers you can wear without feeling self-conscious, sneakers worthy of a rad Italian cowboy who rides a motorycle.

The Reality: You wear your sneakers on casual Friday, and you are neither Italian nor a cowboy.


Buzz Rickson’s

buzz rickson's buzz ricksons buzz rickson styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum

The Dream: You call your wardrobe your “Collection.” Everyone you know thinks you’re fantastically well-dressed, but  can’t figure out why, and when they ask how you got interested in fashion you say: “I don’t care about fashion. I appreciate fine objects.” Your home, like your closet, is stocked only with the finest examples of the last 150 years of design.

The Reality: You can’t bring yourself to wear your reproduction military gear outside the house because you’re afraid of looking like a poser.


Epaulet

Epaulet styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum epaulet NY epaulet new york

The Dream: You support the best of the new menswear movement: your clothing is small-batch, artisanal, and 100% free range. You’re a new breed of consumer, one who cares as much about provenance as style, and if there’s one thing that excites you, it’s quality.

The Reality: You own over 50 nearly-identical button-down shirts.


Gaziano and Girling

gaziano and girling gaziano girling styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum

The Dream: Your liquor cabinet is full of aged scotch and fine cigars, and when you arrive at home you change into a dressing gown worth more as much as a small car. People tell you that you look half your age, and that they wish more men remembered how to dress well.

The Reality: Your friends really wish you’d stop putting your feet on their furniture.


Luxire

luxire styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum

The Dream: “It’s custom,” you say to the numerous people who ask you where you got your clothes. Your entire wardrobe is built to your exact specifications; you know, to the tenth of an inch, how much space is between the cuff buttons on every one of your painstakingly-designed jackets. When you see an interesting garment on one of your global travels, you take note of it, and plan to have it turned into yet another hit piece.

The Reality: You’ve never ordered from Luxire, because you can’t figure out how and you’re too embarrassed to ask.

 


RRL

RRL double RL styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum

The Dream: You’re a historian of life’s finest pleasures, and that extends to your wardrobe. Every item is a beautiful re-imagining of a fine vintage garment, executed to the finest standard. Sometimes, you look inside your closet, and you let out a deep sigh of self-satisfaction, because the stories behind the clothes you own are as varied and moving as the story of your life.

The Reality: 50% of people assume you really like steam engines, 100% assume you really like the sound of your own voice.


Sartoria Formosa

sartoria formosa styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum

The Dream: Your evenings are a combination of cocktail hours and black tie affairs, your weekends spent at Instagram-worthy vacation locales. People ask you for wine recommendations, and laugh delightedly at your stories. You are a cultural icon and global influencer; a single one of your posts on social media is worth tens of thousands of dollars.

The Reality: Greg Lellouche, proprietor of No Man Walks Alone and champion of Sartoria Formosa, is swimming in a pool of your money like a French Scrooge McDuck while his minions toss confetti made of fabric swatches into the air.

 


Stephan Schneider

stephan schneider styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum

The Dream: Your life is modern but accessible. You don’t care about fashion – not at all! – you just like to live well. Your house is never messy, your car is always clean, and you’re always happy to go see your friend’s new art show downtown. Your closet is a zen garden, perfectly organized and immaculately laid out by color and tone.

The Reality: You only wear your Stephan Schneider trousers with a company polo, because you’re terrified of standing out.


Vanda Fine Clothing

vanda styleforum styleforum's most popular brands styleforum vanda fine clothing

The Dream: Every month, you’re featured on the cover of a new men’s interest magazine. You know all the best people, and they all know you. This year you’ve planned several trips to sample bespoke tailoring offerings from around the globe, and your trusty photographer is even more excited than you are.

The Reality: You can’t stop. You’ve tried, but your collection of pocket squares now requires its own room. Every time you think you’ve got it under control, a new fabric or a new pattern is released, and before twenty-four hours are up you’ve crawled, shaking, back to the computer. Just one more, you think, as the world narrows to the image on your screen; you don’t own this exact shade of cream, and once you do, your wardrobe will be complete, and you will finally be free.


 

 

Airport Style for Vacation Comfort

It’s vacation time, which means it’s time to consider what you’ll be wearing to survive airports, airplanes, layovers, and transportation – all while not looking like a slob. Modern air travel is largely a miserable experience, and it’s hard to resist the urge to do what you can to make yourself as comfortable as possible. Most of the people you see on airplanes and in airports will probably be wearing sweat pants or workout pants of some variety, and frankly, considering the tiny seats, flight delays, violent flight attendants, and lost baggage, I can’t fault them for that.


Jacket

Pockets, pockets, pockets. Gum, chapstick, wallet, passport, boarding pass – all of these will have to go somewhere, and I absolutely hate carrying things in my hands through airports, because I’m certain I’ll drop something without noticing, or set something down and forget to pick it back up. Internal pockets are key, as is a cut comfortable enough to allow you to wear it all flight long or place luggage in the overhead bins.

 


Shirt

There’s something about airports that makes everyone look like a slob. Things spill. Things wrinkle. If you’re the kind of guy who usually wears a crisp white tee and feels good, you’ll probably end up looking like you just rolled out of bed after a cheeto binge. A collar, or at least a button placket, keeps this effect at bay. Oh, and white is not a great shirt color choice – nothing stays clean on an airplane.


Pants

Yes, pants. If you opt for shorts, you run the risk of finding yourself freezing when the aircraft air-con kicks into hyperdrive. Additionally, I haven’t worn denim on a plane in years, and can safely say that even slim jeans are terrible airline pants. Instead, opt for a breathable, woven trouser of some kind (or at least a loose-cut twill) that will keep you comfortable when you’re sitting on the tarmac and the AC’s not on, as well as when you’re in the air and it’s blasting. As long as the cut is comfortable, the fabric shouldn’t matter that much – as long as it allows at least some airflow.


Shoes

Slip-on, slip-off. You know this, don’t you? Loafers, slip-on sneakers, or slippers are all good choices – shoes that you can remove and put on while the seatbelt sign is on are worth their weight in gold. Anyone who’s ever experienced the horrible feeling of trying to stuff swollen feet back into laced shoes or boots after a long flight knows how truly hellish an experience that is, so keep in mind that after hours in the air, even the walk to baggage claim is going to make your feet feel as tired and uncomfortable as if you’d been walking all day.

 

My Signature (Winter) Look: Gerry Nelson

We can always count on Gerry Nelson for consistently great outfits and great insight to go along with them. This week, we figured that you, just like us, would be sick of the heat, so we turned to our friend from down under for a glimpse of cool-weather style, and what (hopefully) awaits those of us in the Northern Hemisphere 2-3 months from now.

We’re particularly impressed with his ability to choose garments that are both versatile and interesting – he does a great job of mixing and matching seemingly-complex textures or patterns that others might find daunting, and can always be counted on to put his own twist on otherwise simple outfits. Below, he details his signature look, and in the process gives us all some great inspiration to keep in mind when autumn collections begin to hit our favorite stores.


When it came to writing a piece about my signature winter look, one template stood out to me. A chunky, shawl-collared cardigan, a thick shirt (or thin turtleneck sweater), some warm trousers and textured shoes are all I need. What draws me to this outfit time and time again is how comfortable and adaptable it is. I have a few of these cardigans now and wear them when the weather gets cooler, but it’s important that they fit well. The baggier they are, the greater the chance you can end up looking fuddy-duddy.

For example, if I’m relaxing at home or it’s cool outside, the cardigan over a shirt is more than enough. If it’s a little colder, I add a scarf, and if it’s colder still, I can throw on a roomy coat. Sometimes, I even wear a vest underneath. What I like is that this feels completely comfortable to wear at home, at work or even when I’m out for the weekend.

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Do yourself a favor and follow Gerry on Instagram

Outfit Inspiration from AlexRamius

alexramius styleforum

Navy trousers get a bad rap on Styleforum. I read a lot of complaints about versatility, utility, and color matching, but this photo of member Alexramius should change your mind. The patterned sport coat on top helps to balance out the ‘weight’ of the solid color on the bottom, and the heavily-textured tie equally draws the eye upwards. This, my friends, is a great look. I love a good cream jacket, and the subtle PoW check on this model makes it more enticing – and perhaps more versatile – than a solid cream option would be.

I’ve taken the liberty of suggesting a brown shantung tie and navy pocket square below, purely for argument’s sake – those are two colors that I really enjoy when paired with cream, although I think that any subdued – particularly earthy – colors of your choice would be a great match for spring through fall, and offer a pleasing and subtle counterpoint to the bright summer outfits that are still flooding Instagram.