How to Style a Leather Shirt

how to style a leather shirt jacket styleforum

 

First of all, even though it says leather shirt, we recommend wearing another shirt under it. Second of all, the leather shirt or leather shirt jacket is less tricky to style than you might think – no, you don’t see that many of them in the wild, but that shouldn’t deter you. It’s just that more movie-star friendly styles – like moto jackets and double riders – are incredibly popular, and we don’t see that changing. Opting instead for a leather shirt jacket keeps you from looking like a Harry Styles wannabe, and since the leather shirt jacket is generally a lighter-weight garment, it’s perfect for springtime.

We’re mildly obsessed with this version, made by heavy denim and leather experts Iron Heart. It’s made from a supple Japanese deerskin that’s more flexible than calf and tougher than lamb, and combined with the snap-button front and the western yoke, it’s the kind of piece that will be at home with faded blue or deep black jeans, whether you’re into Ralph Lauren or ultra-heavyweight denim. The more you wear it, the more it’ll form to your body, and with enough love (or abuse) a piece like this will look absolutely incredible.

There’s no reason you couldn’t wear said jacket over a t-shirt on the weekends, but we suggest playing up the western theme with a Jean Shop denim shirt – because why not? Faded denim looks great with black leather, and it’s also a nod to the occasional chilly spring day. And since denim and leather is such a badass combination, you might as well maximize the effect with as much denim as possible.

Speaking of, this pair of jeans from kick-ass Tokyo newcomers Nine Lives should fulfill your black denim kick. A moderate 13.5 oz denim is far more comfortable year-round than 21 oz monsters or 10 oz lightweights, and the details – such as hidden pockets on the yoke and a slanted coin pocket (to make the thing, y’know, usable) – aren’t so much gimmicks (enough with the selvage-trimmed everything) as well thought-out details. Plus, we know from experience that a well-made slim-straight cut goes with just about everything in most wardrobes.

To keep the theme of heavyweight style in a more comfortable form, we’ve chosen moto boots from arte povera darling M.A.+ to tickle your feetsies. No, they’re not ten-pound engineer boots, but that’s the idea. You get supple leather, as well as a not-quite-traditional take on a traditional style. And don’t listen to the internet noise: you can absolutely wear Maurizio Amadei’s organic shapes with more structured and traditional garments.

Finally, let’s talk about the little details: how about a pair of ridiculous sunglasses? You’re already wearing a leather shirt over a denim shirt, and you might as well keep on having fun. Rose-colored aviators from respected eyewear brand Dita add a not-too-serious 70’s slant to things, and we suggest growing a mustache to go along with them. And Montale’s Aoud Cuir d’Arabie is the perfect accompaniment to an outfit built around a leather shirt – it’s an animalic, almost medicinal oud-and-leather scent that’s been compared at various outlets to “old band-aids,” “camel urine,” “sex and leather,” and “the best B.O. anyone’s ever had.” The dry-down, however, is mellow and approachable, just like you are.

We give it a gold star.

 


1. Iron Heart Deer Leather Shirt – $1,650 at Self Edge

2. Denim Workshirt – $255 at Jean Shop

3. Slim Straight Work Jeans – $290 at Nine Lives Brand

4. M.A.+ Moto Boots – $2,250 at Idol Brooklyn

5. Dita Mach-Two Sunglasses – $700 at SSENSE

6. Montale Aoud Cuir d’Arabie – $120 at Luckyscent

The 5 Best Deals on Styleforum’s Classifieds

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best of Styleforum’s classifieds. Out of that glittering company, we’ve picked our five favorites to share. Click the links below to see the listings!


  1. RALPH LAUREN PURPLE LABEL TWEED WINTER COAT SZ L – from @Suited

    This beauty from Ralph Lauren sports all the trimmings: a wool, cashmere and alpaca blend shell; suede detailing everywhere, and a lovely trim fit for a sleek take on a traditional silhouette. Fan-tastic!

    Available for $1,488


  2. GAZIANO & GIRLING ST JAMES II CEDAR/KUDU – from @Keal19

    If you’ve ever wanted a pair of show-stoppers…well, look no further. These were part of a GMTO done through Skoaktiebolaget, which means this might be your only chance to find a pair. Beautiful contrast leather, a beautiful last, and an all-around beautiful shoe.

    Available for $1,200


  3. EIDOS NAPOLI NAVY OVERCOAT 48R – from @robotmitli

    This simple but elegant overcoat from Styleforum darling Eidos Napoli comes in a herringbone fabric made of blended cashmere and wool. A navy overcoat such as this one is just about the ideal outer layer for any tailored wardrobe, and will bring you many, many years of enjoyment.

    Available for $699


  4. LUIGI BORRELLI NAPOLI SPREAD COLLAR SHIRT – from @aph99

    The perfect spread-collar shirt, made in white cotton poplin with barrel cuffs. It’s always good to have a white shirt on hand for when situations demand it, and with one such as this you probably won’t need another.

    Available for $149


  5. CALABRESE 1924 NAPOLI TRAVEL BAG – from @violethour1951

    There’s no feeling quite like that of packing your things into a weekender and taking off for a few days. And there’s maybe nothing better than carrying a bag as nice as this one. Whether it’s going in the trunk of a car, in an overhead bin, or on the train seat next to you, it will wear hard and only get better with age. A true heirloom piece.

    Available for $650


To see all of @razl‘s selections, click here.

How to Wear a Light Colored Suit This Spring

classic hollywood colors for spring style hollywood style styleforum how to wear a light colored suit

 


When the weather’s spitting, most men turn to dark colors – navy, black, and charcoal – out of a fear of raindrops, mud, and cars driving through puddles. While there’s nothing wrong with that, it does mean that it’s sometimes just as easy to get locked into a spring wardrobe the same way as can happen during winter. With that in mind, we propose a light colored suit for springtime.

First, it’s a nice way to break up the monotony of winter. Second, khaki, beige, or ivory has a touch of old Hollywood about it, which – and this is important – makes it fun in a way other things aren’t.  In this case, we’ve chosen a beige, easy-wearing patch-pocket model from Camoshita, which certainly skews toward the casual. That gives you the option to lose the tie, which we all know is important in springtime, because who wants to wear a tie when the tulips are coming up?

Of course, to fully embrace the monochromatic look, we suggest giving a nod to unpredictable weather by wearing a classic Mackintosh. With a belt and a collar that can be turned up against the elements, you won’t be making any stylistic concessions the next time it rains – by which we mean: please stop wearing your gore-tex jacket over a suit. Thank you.

Finally, after you’ve picked your pocket square, a light scent such as Frédéric Malle’s Geranium Pour Monsieur is a nice finishing touch to match your light color palette. This one smells about as fresh as a spring shower, and opens with a pleasant blend of geranium, mint, and star anise, that later gives way to a suggestion of musk and sandalwood. Like the clothing we’ve picked, it’s a welcome burst of brightness after a long winter.

The next time you find yourself pining for some uplifting clothing, try a light colored suit and a tonal ensemble. It’s a great way to embrace springtime, and if you’re anything like us, you’ll find yourself clicking your heels as you hop over puddles.


1. Camoshita beige blazer – $880 at Mr. Porter 

2. Camoshita beige trousers (matching) – $340 at Mr Porter

3. Kamakura “Tokyo Slim” striped shirt – $89 at Kamakura

4. Mackintosh belted cotton coat – 725 GBP at Trunk Clothiers

5. Alden chukka in snuff suede – $528 at Lawrence Covell

6. Drake’s pocket square – $90 at Supply and Advise

7. Frédéric Malle, “Geranium Pour Monsieur” – $270 at Barneys

Outfit Inspiration from Gerry Nelson

how to dress like gerry nelson styleforum

It’s no secret that Gerry Nelson posts some of the better-liked outfits on Styleforum. He dresses in a very approachable mix of tailored and casual clothing, and has a great eye for colors. In particular, he often pairs an indigo, work-style jacket with either jeans or trousers, which, though simple, is a fantastically good look if you get the fit and shade of your clothing right. With that in mind, here’s an example of an outfit that at touches on some of Gerry’s sensibilities.

First, our outerwear is casual but neither sloppy nor boring. A deep indigo, such as you’ll find on this Blue Blue Japan gown coat, goes with just about anything, including the Eidos pullover we’ve chosen. A Drake’s shirt with a button-down collar is a good casual accompaniment, and will look just as good on its own with the medium-wash Orslow jeans. Finally, a pair of tassel loafers in a rich brown suede means you can easily wear this outfit into springtime, and the addition of a giant robot on your pocket square is the kind of detail that keeps your wardrobe from boring you to tears.

Now, I’ve never had the opportunity to smell Gerry Nelson in person, but I am a fan of Tom Ford’s Plum Japonais, which is a pleasantly soft and alluring blend of plum, oud, and incense. It seems a perfect fit for the deep colors shown above, and is sensual without being overbearing.

Altogether, this outfit is the very definition of comfortable, just likemost of Gerry’s looks. It’s the kind of combination of sharp and relaxed that’s perfect for most of today’s offices, as well as for most of the weekend. Gerry may have perfected his own particular style, but that doesn’t mean you can’t experiment with similar ideas, and embrace a palette of deep, rich colors this spring.


The Week’s Best Styleforum Classifieds Listings

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best of Styleforum’s classifieds. Out of that glittering company, we’ve picked our five favorites to share.


1. Brand New Gaziano & Girling St. James in UK 9 – 900 EUR (800 EUR without shoe trees)

Let’s start off with two pairs of stunners – two brand new pairs of G&G St. James in size UK 9. These beauties come in the wider “F” last, so if you’ve got wider feet and you’re looking to save some money on a pair (or two) of fantastic shoes, look no further.

Sold by @Jamestct 


2. ZILLI Brown Suede Belted Coat with Nutria Collar & Muskrat Lining (size s/m) – $2,850

Whoa. Talk about a stunner – this full suede coat with a hefty fur lining is a once-in-a-lifetime find, and with proper care it’ll last you just as long. Wear it open with a pair of well-worn jeans and casual boots, or over a jacket and trousers. Either way – holy damn.

Sold by @Brianpore


3. Isaia Jackets (various sizes and colors) – $699-$999 (trousers for $105)

Isaia’s known for bold patterns and colors – as well as great fit and construction. This is your chance to snag a deal on some beautiful, eye-catching pieces, at prices far lower than retail. Jump on it!

Sold by @gyasih


4. BNIB Alden Straight Tip Medallion Boots, #8 Shell Cordovan, Grant last, US 9.5D – $750

Best Styleforum Classifieds Listings

Another fantastic pair of shoes popped up this week – these Aldens in gorgeous shell cordovan are the perfect boot for jeans or trousers, and the legendary New England craftsmanship will take you all over the world in perfect style.

Sold by @hoodog


5. NWT Dents “Keswick” silk-lined gloves, sizes 9 & 10 – $55

Best Styleforum Classifieds Listings

Finally, Dents’ gloves are legendary by any standard, and finding a pair for half off retail is a dream. Wear them with anything, anywhere, anytime – not only will your hands be warm, but you’ll get that great, self-satisfied feeling that only comes from wearing luxurious accessories.

Sold by @jreigen


To see @razl’s full list, click here

Our Best End of Season Sales Picks

It’s your last chance to snag some great deals on winter collections before spring clothes make their way into your favorite shops. Here are some of our best end of season sales picks, great for any wardrobe.


Outerwear

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum stutterheim

 Stutterheim Car Coat – 95GBP at END.

 

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

CM: Camoshita Houndstooth Balmacaan – 711$ at No Man Walks Alone


Knitwear

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

North Sea Clothing Service Shawl Collar – 85GBP

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

John Laing Cashmere Rollneck – 275$ at Hanger Project


Shirts

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Haversack long popover – 115$ at Gentry with code HALFOFF

 

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Luciano Barbera Seafoam stripe – 197$ at Lawrence Covell


Denim and Trousers

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Snow Peak Okayama OX Pants – 155$ at Standard and Strange

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Hiltl for H.Stockton thin-wale corduroy pants in chocolate – 183$ at H.Stockton


Shoes

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Nike Flyknit SE – 86$ at Oki-Ni

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Carmina Tanker Boot in brown scotchgrain – 475$ at Gentlemen’s Footwear


Accessories

SW&D

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Dries van Noten leather portfolio – 376$ at LOIT

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Begg Kishorn cashmere scarf – 340$ at Unionmade


See something you like? If you’re on the hunt for more great end-of-season sales and deals, make sure you’re subscribed to the Styleforum Offical Sales Alert Thread, where we share all the sales, coupon codes, and deals from the best vendors in the world of menswear. You won’t find a better place to stay up-to-date on staying stylish. 

The 3 Wildest Brands at Pitti Uomo 91

In addition to some of the best classic menswear brands, the best accessories, and the all-around best brands, period, Pitti plays host to some crazy and crazily impressive work. Here are three of the wildest brands at Pitti Uomo 91, brought to you by the discerning eye of Arianna Reggio.


OLD RANDA

One of the makers that impressed me the most at Pitti was Old Randa. Andrea, the creative mind behind the brand, caught my eye with his eclectic style. With his thin figure, the arms covered in tattoos, and the slim, straight moustache, he made me think that, if Baudelaire had been alive in 2017, that’s exactly what he would look like.

Since I am an incredibly frivolous person and I tend to dedicate attention to people with charm, I immediately approached Andrea to find out if his creations were as compelling as his style.

This is how I got swallowed up in a spiral of art, history, and tradition that almost left me overwhelmed as if I were drunk.

Andrea is a patina master, which means that he specializes in the art of dyeing leather. Because of his strong personality and his personal background (he worked in theater before dedicating his time to the Old Randa project) his creations are rather unique. Think Bontoni shoes tripping on acid.

Bright colors, such as absinthe green, bright purple, and mustard yellow, are combined using no apparent logic, and they make the shoes look like the skin of exotic, venomous animals.

I pointed at a pair of brogues that looked as if they were coated in the red marble adorning the Medici chapel in Florence.

“Ah, those!” said Andrea with a smile. “I dye them using wine must.”

As it always happens when I hear the word “wine,” I pricked up my ears.

“I retrieved an ancient recipe for making wine in the Ancient Rome. I dip the shoes in the must using an amphorae until they’re almost completely black, and then I polish away the excess until beauty is revealed.”

Then he flipped the shoes to expose the sole, and I was, if possible, even more blown away. On the leather sole of the shoe was impressed the strange figure of an animal; Andrea explained that he has always been fascinated by the drawings of ancient European explorers, who, coming back from their adventures, would try to illustrate the exotic, unknown animals such as lions, peacocks, elephants, and crocodiles. Because these representations were solely based on the memory of the explorers, they were incredibly inaccurate, and looking at them today they seem the drawings of mythological creatures.

I collected Jasper, who didn’t get a single word of the conversation – which was in Italian – and I walked away asking myself if this encounter really happened or I was still getting over last night’s prosecco.  Or if this whole Pitti thing was a dream, and I had just woken up to find out I was at some batshit crazy contemporary art vernissage in Copenhagen.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


FRANCESCO MAGLIA

Francesco Maglia is a big, ruddy man that, if it wasn’t for his perfectly tailored clothes, could easily be mistaken for Santa Claus. I timidly peeked inside their booth attracted by the varicolored umbrellas sprouting from rudimental metal tins, and Francesco Maglia literally dragged me inside and introduced me to his little crew – which were all family members.

“Hello, my dear,” he solemnly said, “I am Francesco V, and this is Francesco VI, my son.”

“Oh.” That’s pretty much everything I managed to say, partly because I was trying to figure out if the guy was shitting me, and partly because my hand had started to go numb in his vise.

“So…what’s going on here? You guys make some pretty awesome umbrellas,” I said, deciding that adulation is always a safe option. Besides, their umbrellas really are quite amazing: they look sturdy and practical, but with a range of colors and shapes that denote careful research in aesthetics. I would say that they’re the type of umbrellas I wouldn’t mind using to beat up a mugger on the bus, only to clamorously open it in a dramatic gesture a minute later and walk away in style, chin to the sky.

“We, young lady,” said Francesco V in his deep, low voice, “We are some of the best umbrella makers in the world.”

I stared at him for a long moment, finding myself speechless again. He said that in such a calm, confident way that I believed him immediately. He proceeded without giving me the time to process the information.

“Everything we sell is exclusively made in our workshop. We are a five-generation umbrella makers and we still use the same methods and processes that Francesco I used when he opened the workshop. Each umbrella requires more than 70 steps to make.

“You like that?” he asked, noticing I was eyeing a beautiful umbrella in cobalt blue.

“It’s really nice,” I replied sincerely, “The wood seems quite solid!”

“It is. It’s a single piece of wood. A whole branch of walnut, actually.”

Francesco went on explaining how they only use the best wood branches to make their handles, and how laborious the process is.

“First, you have to select the branches. Then, you have to straighten them, and that requires a lot of time – up to 6 months – during which the maker steams the wood and softens it in order to bend it to the correct shape.”

I suddenly felt reverential respect for this man, who was clearly passionate about his profession and was taking the time to illustrate his art to me. It broke me a little when his face changed to a sadder expression as he told me that people don’t seem to care about quality anymore.

“People don’t understand that an umbrella like this is an heirloom piece that will last through more than one generation, because my umbrellas simply don’t break. My sister has had hers for over 30 years, and we just recently replaced the canopy: it looks like new again.

“The demand is so low that we had to come to terms with some of our offerings; for example, we are no longer able to offer silk as a choice.  Our fabric is now a blend of cotton, silk, and wool.”

His big smile came back as soon as I told him that I work for a menswear forum (it took a while before he understood what that was) where quality is not only appreciated, but also worshipped like a goddess, and I promised to introduce his brand to the community.

I walked away after one last, vigorous handshake that thankfully didn’t make my $3 Hello Kitty umbrella fall off my tote bag. That would have been embarrassing.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.


ESSENZIALMENTE LAURA

Since both Jasper and I have the sense of direction of a blind mole in a maze, we found ourselves lost in the main pavilion more than once trying to find the shopping area, which was supposed to be a pretty big deal this year. During one of our aimless wanderings, we ended up in the area dedicated to maîtres parfumeurs, as in: the beauty section.

Honestly, I feel pretty at ease around beauty aisles, so I suggested going through them in hope to find the shops and maybe even a perfume to bring home as a souvenir.

“But…what does beauty have to do with Pitti Uomo?” objected Jasper.

Oh, God. Men. Always asking irrelevant questions.

“Aren’t you a big connoisseur of fragrances yourself?”

“Yes, but…is this a good use of our time?”

I stared at my colleague in dismay: he succeeded in the attempt of making me feel more guilty than my husband ever has.

“Fine. Let’s go this way, perhaps we will find the…”

“Ohh, look! Roses!” breathed Jasper, waltzing towards the stand of Essenzialmente Laura, which had rows upon rows of elegant perfume bottles protected by crystal cloches.

I followed him to the stand, where a woman was elegantly waving her hand, spraying perfume all around.

“This is Mystic Rose,” she said smiling at us. “It’s part of our collection dedicated to the Bible.

“Roses are a biblical symbol of wisdom and purity. The thorns represent the sins, and the Church itself is oftentimes represented with a rose. Do you like it?”

Jasper seemed pleased with the smell of Mystic Rose, so the woman showed us the rest of the Bible collection.

“This is Incense of the Churches of Rome,” she announced, spraying off the fragrance on a piece of paper and handing it to us.

“It smells…like a church,” I commented stupidly, but I did mean what I said. If you ever entered a big cathedral in Europe – whether it’s Notre Dame or St. Peter’s, you know what I’m referring to: that smell of melted wax, incense, and wood has probably been the same for centuries. It is actually not unpleasant: it instantly brought me back to my trip to Bruges, when I had one of the most intense sensorial experiences of my life. I was walking down the aisle of the enormous cathedral in the central square of the city, and someone started playing the harp in a little hidden chapel. If you have never heard the sound of a harp resonating through the marble walls of a church, let me tell you: it was the most poetical sound my ears have ever perceived, and even if I chased it desperately in hundreds of harp concerts after that day, I was never able to grasp that celestial melody again. It was one, ephemeral moment of pure beauty, and it’s lost forever.

That’s what I was thinking when I smelled Incense of the Churches of Rome: I felt grateful for the privilege of having shared the stage with Beauty one day many years ago, in a semi-desert church in Belgium inundated with the morning light.

Perhaps it’s not a perfume I would wear on a daily basis, but the melancholy those notes of incense instilled in me is more precious than the average “I’d have sex with myself” fragrance.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

So here we are! Hopefully you enjoyed reading about the more unconventional people and brands that populate Pitti Uomo. Watching the photos online and reading about it on fashion magazines and blogs doesn’t even begin to explain the variety of incredible personalities that you can encounter. If you take the time to talk to them, they’ll tell you stories – their stories – that will transcend the menswear field, and you’ll find yourself wondering if you really should be listening to these mad individuals rather than concentrating on the clothes and the products.

Oh, but you can’t help that,” whispers a voice in my head: “We’re all mad here.

The Best Accessories at Pitti Uomo 91

The Best Accessories Brands at Pitti Uomo

1. Ana Lemata

Ana Lemata is less a milliner than a textile artist who happens to make hats – and “passionate” doesn’t begin to describe her approach to her craft. Her hats are by turns whimsical, elegant, and romantic, ranging from traditional designs to hats that are barely recognizable as hats until they’re worn.

Ana was trained by the former milliner to Queen Mother Elizabeth of England, though she also carries a Ph.D in art history. Both skill and knowledge are on display in all her wares, and one gets the feeling that her hats wouldn’t be out of place in the Guggenheim Bilbao. But don’t let the incredible artistry fool you – these hats, made of materials such as beaver felt, vicuna, and straw – are made to last as long as the wearer, with proper care. And, while there are a host of ready-made options available upon inquiry, Ana relishes the opportunity to make bespoke hats for discerning clients.

If you’re in the market for something hand-made, unique, and sure to bring you years of happiness, you should act soon – currently, Ana’s prices are almost criminally low considering the materials used and the amount of work that goes into each piece.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

2. PB 0110

One of the most interesting pieces we saw at Pitti was this undyed leather backpack by PB 0110. This is a German brand that manufactures primarily sleek, modern leather accessories; very much in the vein of Scandinavian design but with a slightly more streetwear bent to them. What that means is that instead of rigid perfection you get a product with a bit more personality than the stereotypically featureless accessories people still tend to associate with ubiquitous minimalism.

Like most of the companies that show at Pitti, PB 0110 is eager to tout the lasting quality of its products. Normally, I’m wary of these claims, but pictures of well-used leather bags suggest that perhaps there’s more than marketing spin to the statements.

Though the articles are available in a range of colors and styles, the undyed leathers are probably the stand-out. Perfect for lugging around your rolls of dead-stock denim and small-batch-roasted coffee beans.

3. The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear

If you spend any time involved in the #menswear community online, you’ve probably heard of The Bespoke Dudes – or at least of the founder, Fabio Attanasio, who’s a veritable Instagram celebrity. The eyewear is based on classic – mostly 50’s and 60’s – styles, but updated for a more modern look. Every pair, whether wire or acetate, is manufactured and hand-finished in Italy, and if nothing else it’s a great alternative to the Luxottica behemoth. Of course, you’ll have to make sure the shapes and widths work for your face, but the details, lenses, and finishes may just pull you away from that free pair of sunnies you keep in your car’s cupholder.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

4. La Portegna

We’ve been singing the praises of La Portegna since at least 2014, and nothing has changed our appreciation for these lightweight travel goods and accessories. While in years past the offerings were very voyage-focused, La Portegna has expanded somewhat to include a wider range of women’s goods, along with shoes and sneakers for both sexes. The latter being, as José told me, a natural extension of the brand, despite (his words) the ubiquity of minimal sneakers.

To me, the appeal of La Portegna is how good the products feel in the hand, and how comforting it is to bring them with you on a daily – or irregular – basis. The designs and leathers continue to be attractive to both the eye and the hand, and offer a relieving middle ground when one is faced on all sides by heavy leather weekenders and Nylon carryalls. And, to José’s credit, his (leather-soled) espadrilles are the only espadrilles I’ve ever considered wearing.

Oh, and if you’re looking for a backpack in La Portegna’s beautiful and long-wearing ‘Sol’ leather, the wait is over.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

(Disclosure: La Portegna provided Styleforum with sponsored goods for a different project in 2015)

5. Merola

Merola is an old standby of Italian glovemaking, and for good reason. Since 1885, they’ve managed not only to hang on to their manufacturing pedigree, but they’ve adapted their line to fit the needs (and hands) of everyone from Kate Winslet in Titanic to your average guy with a smartphone. Of particular note were the gloves lined with tie silk, which is a touch that I can see many Styleforum members finding attractive – and comfortable. The materials and linings remain sumptuous, the finishing top-notch, and the number of styles available mean it’s pretty likely that you’ll be able to find something to keep your hands both warm and stylish, whether you’re riding a vintage bicycle or just nonchalantly stuffing your gloves in the pocket of your overcoat.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

What to Wear With a Shearling Jacket

what to wear with a shearling jacket styleforum

1. Aero Coastal Command shearling jacket

2. Rocky Mountain Featherbed liner jacket from Mr. Porter

3. Folk waffle-knit crew sweater from End

4. 4 Pocket pant from Evan Kinori

5. Goodyear-welted Julius boots in vintage leather from Peter Nappi


In my mind, there are very few things warmer than shearling. Yes, you could probably argue that one of those insulated suits made for climbing Everest is warmer than a shearling jacket, but you’re about as likely to own one of those as you are to wear it on any given day, even if you do own one. And, like most of your wardrobe, the continued popularity of the shearling bomber jacket is due to its presence in military uniform. Various military forces have adopted shearling at different points in history, but shearling is now perhaps most recognizable in bomber jacket form.

The most common models you’ll see are based on the US B3 and B6 jacket. These jackets were a very effective – but expensive – way for high-flying bomber pilots to stay warm, and were often accompanied by shearling overpants, gloves, and caps (the B6 being the lighter-weight, less bulky derivative for fighter pilots in smaller cockpits). Not only did they offer great insulation at freezing temperatures, but they would, in theory, keep the pilots alive were they shot down over open water. As rare as it is now to find someone wearing a full shearling suit, the jackets are still available in both vintage, repro, and updated form.

The one pictured here is not a USAAF jacket, but an R.A.F “Coastal Command” jacket, manufactured to original specifications by Aero Leathers. As you can see, the hood has been painted yellow – again, this was meant to serve as an indicator when searching for (hopefully) floating pilots. In addition, I think that the details visible on this later model – zipped cuffs, a belted waist – make it a touch more modern and, when worn outside the context of a war, rakish – than some of the American models.

Despite plenty of hi-tech advances in staying warm, sheepskin is still plenty effective (and popular), and you’re not limited to recognizably military-inspired models. They are, however, maybe the best for layering. Because when the temperature dips past freezing and it’s really, really cold out, you’re not going to wear just a shirt under your shearling jacket.

I’ve actually taken to wearing an Arcteryx Atom LT hoodie under a shearling (or coat) when it’s freezing which, admittedly, is not hugely fashionable. A better option is a quilted liner jacket like this one from Rocky Mountain Featherbed, especially since since it’s made of super-light and super-warm goose down. The combination of sheepskin and goose down is very, very warm, and if you add a sweater underneath you’ll be set even for nighttime. Uniqlo has a cheaper option, but you miss out on the feeling of wearing a cloud.

what to wear with a shearling jacket styleforum

My usual take on a two-piece Coastal Command outfit: shearling jacket from Cloak, insulated hoodie from Arcteryx, Evan Kinori 4 pocket twill pants, and Nonnative boots.

One thing to keep in mind when wearing a shearling jacket is that ultra-slim jeans don’t often look great due to the volume of the jacket (and the bulk of the layers beneath it), and trousers don’t really fit with such a utilitarian garment either. Most of the time I like looser denim of the ‘slim straight’ variety, which tend to be more in style now anyway, but when it’s freezing it’s nice to have a little extra room for insulation or even for a base layer (REI or even Costco have plenty – I like a wool blend). For example, this pair of four-pocket pants from Evan Kinori are even based on a USN overpant, which work particularly well if you’re after a fuller, more repro-inspired silhouette. I bought a pair last summer in indigo twill

Finally, my footwear barely changes no matter what the weather’s doing, so a good pair of leather boots is always nice to have on hand. These, from Peter Nappi fit the bill. We had the chance to see some of their wares in person at Pitti, and I think they’re very nice. I also like the way slightly more relaxed pants look with slim boots like this, especially since you can let the fabric break against the boot or roll them up with a thick cuff. It makes for an interesting look, I think. Of course, something like SF favorite Viberg would do great, as would a heavier engineer or moto boot.

Regardless, if you’ve spent any time on the forum you may have noted that I love to wear shearling jackets over a simple tee shirt. That said, it’s worth remembering that shearling (and, of course, wool) is one natural fiber that really can stand up to the worst that mother nature has to offer. This trinity  – shearling, wool, and down – works best when these individual powers are combined, like the Captain Planet of staying really, really warm. If you live anywhere with seasons, I’d wager you’ll get a lot of use out of all of the above.

Oh, and if you’re after a US Military jacket, Aero makes those too. I happen to think that a painted shearling hood would be a great thing to have on hand, though.

An Outfit For Pitti Uomo 91

An Outfit For Pitti Uomo

We guarantee that you’ll see at least one person wearing this exact outfit when you’re browsing the media feeds from next week’s Pitti Uomo 91, so even if you’re not going, we figured we’d give you the information you need to look as though you are. Let’s start at the top:

1. Eidos hunting jacket from No Man Walks Alone

If you want to get blogged, you need stand out outerwear. Well, that’s not true. If you want to get blogged, you need to be wearing something ridiculous – which this jacket isn’t. It is, however, ridiculously nice; the kind of jacket that you’ll reach for 9 times out of 10. And it’s perfect for wearing over a sweater and a tee or a tailored shirt.

2. Chimala denim shirt from Mr. Porter

Chambray has been a hit for a few seasons now, and a full-on western shirt is a more casual version of the same. We like this version from Chimala, which is neither too precious nor too rugged.

3. Eleventy cargo pant from Stanley Korshak

Tailored cargo pants are another item that’s not new to the #menswear circuit, but soft cotton and a hint of stretch make this pair from Eleventy the perfect match for a tailored jacket or casual outerwear. And if you really are headed to Pitti Uomo, you’ll enjoy the added comfort and utility of an extra pocket for your chapstick.

4. Braided leather belt from Brooks Bros.

Simple accessories can go a long way, and the added texture that comes from a braided leather belt is a nice bridge between the denim shirt and the sharp-but-casual trousers. Besides, it’s the kind of item that will see a lot of use in your wardrobe, no matter what you’re wearing.

5. J. Fitzpatrick Westlake button boot

We’re big fans of J. Fitzpatrick’s classic-with-a-modern-twist line of footwear, and this par of button boots is an absolute stand-out. Wear them with a suit, wear them with your favorite jeans – hell, wear them with a pair of slim-cut cargo pants. You’re certain to cut a fine figure in a sea of double-monks.

There you have it. You’re ready to watch Pitti from the Fortezza, or from your computer screen. On that note, make sure you’re following Styleforum on Instagram, because next week we’ll be keeping you up-to-date on all the goings-on from Florence.

An Outfit For Pitti Uomo