5 Stand-Out Takes on the White Court Shoe

The white court shoe has taken its place atop the throne of the sneaker world following the rise of the Stan Smith. The latter is now (still!) found on the feet of half the people at any trade show, with only mild competition from Adidas’ shell-toe and three stripe options. But if you’re looking for a simple, good-looking sneaker, there are many brands that offer pleasing design – and, let’s face it, a price that makes Common Projects Achilles look like a joke. Here are 5 white court shoes that you can wear all through the winter – and for a long time to come.


  1. Greats “Royale”

    Photo: Greats


    Luxury court shoes are nothing new, but we all know that Common Projects are no longer the must-have they once were. Greats’ take on the classic design is a little bulkier, a little cushier, and little less ubiquitous (and who doesn’t enjoy a bit of rarity with their sneakers?). The suede models are stand-outs, and will look great with worn-in raw denim or even casually-worn trousers.  And at 1/4 the price of CP’s, what’s not to like?119$, Greats.com


  2. Adidas Stan Smith Primeknit OG pk

    Photo: SSENSE

    What would a list of tennies be without at least one variation on the original? Adidas has updated its classic Stan Smith silhouette with a primeknit upper that offers breathable comfort and keeps you from looking like the rest of the fashion-obsessed sneakerheads out there. And since we’ve reached – and passed – peak Stan Smith saturation, a slight re-config means that you can wear these without feeling self-conscious. Although you can find Primeknit Stans at several retailers, this OG-pack version has a different knit and a slightly lower profile than the all-leather model, but pairs equally well with denim or slim black trousers (yeah, yeah – we see you, fashion week attendees).

    Best part? The added airflow means your feet will stink less.

    130$, ssense.com


  3. Common Projects Court Low
    Photo: Need Supply

    Photo: Need Supply


    Instead of going for the by now ubiquitous Achilles, spend those hard-earned dollars on the CP Court Low instead. We’re big on suede sneakers for a bit of added character, and this even-more-minimal take on the tennis shoe is perfect for fall. Stack your jeans on top of the low cuff, roll ’em up, or even wear a pair of (gasp!) shorts. Common Projects is really the original luxe sneaker brand, and they’ve stayed relevant for a reason.

    435$, NeedSupply.com


  4. Ann Demeulemeester Suede Low-Top

    Photo: FWRD



    While not exactly a court shoe (they’re more of a take on the venerable Converse), these suede low-tops nonetheless offer a great alternative to your standard tennis shoe. They’re much more versatile than the brand’s die-hard fans would have you believe, and are equally at home with head-to-toe Ann D. or a rolled-up pair of Engineered Garments BDU pants. The suede upper takes on added character with wear, and well-read forumites will know to ask their cobbler about adding a Vibram (or other rubber) outsole for increased longevity and grip. At this point, they’re a modern classic.

    830$, fwrd.com


  5. Filling Pieces “Low Top Tabs White”

    Photo: Filling Pieces

    Looking for a little more flash from your court shoe? Streetwear brand Filling Pieces could be right up your alley. This take on their classic Tabs low top adds a gum sole and toe-cap perforation for a does of athletic style. Prices, while firmly upmarket, aren’t Givenchy-high, which means you’ll have some cash left over for a fancy pair of sweatpants. Long live athleisure!

    EUR240, Fillingpieces.com

Styleforum endorses the Ami double-breasted overcoat

One of the perks of going to a winter wedding is that you’ll get to wear an overcoat, which makes your outfit feel so much more substantial than anything you can wear in the summer.  I’m 42 now, which means that most of my friends were married over a decade ago (the average age at which people get married, according to a quick google search, is about 29, in the USA).  However, I have a large extended family, which means that I have a lot of younger cousins who are just now tying the knot, hitching the horse, or whatever euphemism you wish to use.  This means that my 15 year old overcoat will probably not fit any more.  And while I wouldn’t mind spring $3K on that casentino overcoat from Liverano&Liverano I saw in Florence a few years ago, I won’t need it that often (my family is not that big, nor do I need to wear suits that often). And with kids of my own, and a house, and all of that stuff that cost money, $3K seems a bit extravagant right now.  So, I’ve decided to go with this Ami double-breasted overcoat, which hits all the right style notes, and is the right price too.

Double-breasted camel hair overcoats are one of the few overcoats that have sporting, rather than military, roots, and originally appeared as a cover-up on the sidelines, apparently at polo matches.  Even though features in the original coat changed as it became a staple in both the UK and at American Universities, with two columns of buttons replacing the original belt, the original inspiration for the beige colored, double-breasted overcoat with flapped patch pockets is still quite recognizable.  It soon became an overcoat that was used for occasions of differing formality levels.  I saw this on East Coast campuses a lot in the noughties, and more and more throughout the general populace as long coats have become more and more popular for casual use, in this decade.

Of course, clothing evolves, and today’s versions of polo coats so often have details added or taken away that it’s probably best to just descriptively call the thing a double-breasted camel overcoat, to avoid arguments about whether it’s more like a polo coat, or more like a military greatcoat, or whatever.  It’s fun to discuss and argue the distinctions in an online discussion on Styleforum, of course.

Parisian brand Ami, founded by Marc Jacobs and Dior alum Alexandre Mattiussi, concentrates on contemporary sartorial basics and good approachable prices.  I’ve heard it called the heir apparent to A.P.C., and each collection includes robust similar sportwear and military inspired pieces in narrow and straight cuts that characterize early A.P.C., the brand is a little more urbane, a little more like that other French stalwart brand -Agnes B.

The original versions of this coat were apparently made of camelhair.  This coat uses the 80% wool/20% polyamide blend melton that is common in many modern overcoats, with the polyamide lending strength to a thinner material than would have been previously used.  Purists sometimes scoff and make sour faces at the use of synthetics, but I see it as an acceptable concession to modern tastes, which tend towards lighter weight fabrics.  I personally love the 32 ounce traditional melton, but I know that a lot of guys balk at that weight.  Also, textiles sciences has made great strides since the 1970s, when synthetics developed their bad reputation, and the old, still lingering, negative ideas about them are simply inaccurate.

The new version of the double-breasted overcoat also has a slim fit, which is quite different from the boxy fit of the original coat, and has set in, flapped pockets, rather than the original patch pockets.  Both I see as merciful changes made for the non-perfect physique.

Ami doublebreasted overcoat, $840 at www.mrporter.com

ami double-breasted overcoat

Ami doublebreasted overcoat, $840 at www.mrporter.com

Sunday Styles: Sashiko Jacket

sashiko jacket

It’s only fitting that we showcase a sashiko jacket after this week’s feature. The deep blue of this heavy Luxire jacket looks great with earth tones – say, a chambray work shirt from Taylor Stitch and slim trousers from our long-time Canadian favorites, Wings + Horns. A lightweight hiking boot that’s equally at home on the street offers enough bulk to stand up to the jacket, and wayfarer-style sunnies, like this pair from Henry Blake, are always appropriate.

1. Heavy Sashiko Jacket from Luxire

2. Chambray Utility Shirt from Taylor Stitch

3. Wings + Horns Tokyo pant from Need Supply Co.

4. Danner x New Balance Hiking Boots from Portland Dry Goods

5. Wanderer Sunglasses from Henry Blake

Good Buy: 1ST PAT–RN Chore Jacket

I’ve been meaning to pick up a second chore jacket for a while now, but still haven’t found the perfect vintage example to call my own. I really like this 1ST PAT-RN chore jacket, called the “Officina.” I’ve been following the brand for a while now, and although I haven’t taken the plunge and purchased anything yet, I’m almost always tempted but everything they make. The styling of the Officina is a little more trim and militaristic, which makes the silhouette a bit sharper than a vintage version, or even some of the heavy, workwear-styled jackets you can find these days. This one sports a very handy interior pocket (many chore jackets don’t), and the stitched-in back belt is a nice touch. It’s also trimmed with visible selvage on the seams, which makes the construction look pleasantly clean.

I quite like these unlined, light jackets. They’re really versatile – you can wear them as a light outer layer, put them over a sweater, or even use them as a mid-layer under a coat or a vest. And they lend themselves to styling of all kinds: denim is easy, but olive trousers look great, as do sharp black trousers. Footwear is equally simple – as long as you’re not wearing sharp, leather-soled shoes, you’re probably good. I’d wear this one with either lightweight chukkas (or your favorite boots), or maybe some Birkenstocks for lounging around. I admit I’m a little sick of the ultra-clean CP achilles-with-chore-jacket look, but it’s certainly an option.

The 1ST PAT-RN version is more expensive than a lot of its competitors, but I think it’s worth it – especially if you’re into high-quality construction. The extra details definitely set it apart, the sharper silhouette lends itself to more styling options, and for whatever it’s worth you don’t run as much of a risk of looking like a slave to current trends.

Our friends over at Standard and Strange carry the full line, which I encourage you to check out.

1ST PAT-RN “Officina” chore jacket, $425 at Standard & Strange

1st pat-rn chore jacket

Denver’s Best Menswear Stores

Denver is an interesting city in a number of ways. While plenty of local writers are happy to talk up the city’s cultural scene, I’ll be the first to say that Colorado’s capital isn’t a menswear (or cultural) mecca in the way America’s coastal cities are. It’s been an “Up-and-coming” spot for as long as I can remember, and it’s my opinion that it still hasn’t quite arrived yet.

However, with tens of thousands of people moving to Colorado every year, there’s certainly a new interest in menswear that didn’t exist ten years ago. While most of the Denver metro area skews towards offering solid, utility-oriented outdoor clothing (The North Face, Mont Bell, and Salomon are what you’ll see most people wearing – along with a lot of yoga clothing), there are a handful of local stores that do offer garments for the discerning enthusiast. Denver’s options range from skater-focused streetwear to contemporary Italian design to high-end tailored clothing. Here are my picks for Denver’s best menswear stores, with an eye on finding something for everyone.


Andrisen Morton
High-end tailored clothing

The first stop on our list, Andrisen Morton, is the store to visit if you’re interested in tailored clothing. They stock an impressive number of well-regarded tailored brands, such as Kiton, Caruso, Brioni, Canali, and Cucinelli, and they even range into accessories from Tom Ford and Shinola. If there’s one department in which they’re lacking it’s footwear, as Alden is, the last time I checked, the only quality shoe brand on the shelves.

The buys, while extensive, aren’t necessarily adventurous, instead focusing on a particular look that’s there to attract Denver’s growing middle class, fueled by the tech and finance industries. Denver remains a more conservative environment than California, but hidden in among the office-ready suits and separates are enough characterful brands and pieces to make a trip well worth your time.

If you’re looking for a dinner jacket in burgundy velvet, or an unlined casual blazer to wear out the door, Andrisen morton is your best stop. The store is impressively large, and in addition to what’s on the shelves they offer an array of fabric swatch books for you to peruse. There isn’t much in the way of casual or streetwear, but then again, that’s not why you came, is it?


Steadbrook
Minimal urban workwear

Clean workwear is the bread-and-butter of Steadbrook’s offerings. This store, which is half coffee-space and half showroom, is a poster child of Denver’s post-hipster culture. Located near Washington Park in the Baker neighborhood, Steadbrook rubs shoulders with tattoo parlors and bars. The space itself is brightly lit and minimal, with a heavy does of content curation, but Steadbrook nonetheless stocks a respectable selection of Styleforum-approved streetwear brands.

Less loud and youthful than the Denver shops offering Billionaire Boys Club and walls of high-top sneakers, Steadbrook is the purveyor of the Denver uniform: clean, raw denim, sleek workwear, and un-fussy footwear. Japan Blue, Momotaro, and 3Sixteen denim sits alongside clothing from forum standbys such as Apolis, Reigning Champ, Norse Projects, and Our Legacy. Simple offerings from Vans and Adidas remind the visitor that this is a streetwear destination, while accessories from Miansai and a small selection of grooming supplies reinforce the coffee-shop/lifestyle aspect of the store. There are even a handful of skateboards for you to check out, assuming you didn’t ride your fixie.


SuitSupply
Affordable, trendy tailored clothing

By now, SuitSupply is probably a familiar name to any forum member, but the Dutch brand’s decision to open an outpost in Cherry Creek suggests that the Denver market is there to support it. It certainly speaks to the area’s tastes at the moment: easy, affordable suiting that’s well-made enough to stand up to curiosity and criticism, and stylish enough to keep wearers from feeling like office drones. SuitSupply offers a rotating, seasonal selection of basic and less-basic suits and separates, and the fact that the products never go on sale (except for a twice-yearly seasonal inventory purge) hasn’t stopped #menswear aficionados from stocking up on blazers for every day of the week.

The Denver location is one of the fastest-growing Suit Supply stores in the country, which is surprising in a state whose “house style” tends to be “I found it at the REI garage sale.” The staff is friendly, the building is nice, and if you’re in search of something particular on a budget – or something fun – there’s a good chance SuitSupply will have you covered. It’s become a go-to shop for the city, and caters to young men starting out on their careers, hobbyists with an interest in clothing, and even Denver’s professional athletes, many of whom are devoted customers. Besides, it’s right next to the first and third stops on our list.


Lawrence Covell
Contemporary men’s and women’s design

Lawrence Covell is my pick for the most interesting menswear store in the Denver area. First and foremost, the women’s selection is at least as nice as the men’s, so if you’re bringing a female friend along she’ll have something to do. It’s located essentially across the street from Andrisen Morton and around the corner for Suit Supply, but does cater to a slightly different customer – one that’s less conservative and perhaps more willing to browse and experiment.

Although Lawrence Covell has some real personality, the racks and shelves are still stocked with a mix of contemporary and classic brands that leans towards conservative.  If you can look past the required offerings (there’s many a chino to be found alongside the Citizens of Humanity denim), the buys offer a surprising amount of character. It helps that the store itself is comfortable, well-lit and airy. The women’s section in particular has some gems, showcasing both classic (and very luxurious) pieces from Brunello Cucinelli and Carven alongside Dries Van Noten and even more street-driven buys from Rag and Bone and Public School.

For the men, Caruso, Bontoni, and Luciano Barbera are stocked alongside Eidos Napoli and Eleventy, while offerings from Oliver Spencer, Barena Venezia, and Gitman Vintage round out the more casual pieces. A respectable selection of Alden and Common Projects shoes isn’t exactly groundbreaking, but it does mesh well with what’s shown on the shop floor. The look is clean and trim, but largely unfussy and not as rigid as what you might find at Andrisen Morton – an appealing blend.

Sashiko Fabric: The Elegant Heavyweight

“Sashiko” is translated from the Japanese as “little stabs,” and refers to a traditional form of needlework often used for decorative mending. The technique gained emerged within Japanese peasant classes in the mid-1800’s as a way to increase the longevity of the heavily-used hemp and cotton garments they relied on. Running stitches were used to decorate as well as reinforce layers of fabric, most of which were cut from older garments or scraps and reused in a quilting technique called boro, or “tattered rags;” at least one example of which is now a necessary staple in every Styleforum member’s closet

Sashiko fabric, however, is a much more recent development (and is the product, almost universally, of mechanical looms). It refers to a tightly-woven cotton fabric reinforced with a equally tight running stitch of embroidery-weight thread that imitates traditional sashiko needlework.

The weaving technique ensures that objects made from sashiko fabric will be able to take a beating – both literal and figurative. Sashiko gi are the traditional garb for aikido, judo and kendo practitioners, and act as an added layer of (light) protection for the wearer. Although many garments used for gi are bleached and left white, sashiko fabrics are also commonly dyed in indigo. Folk wisdom holds that naturally-derived indigo is an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial agent (and that it keeps snakes away). I’ve yet to see clinical proof, but being covered in blue dye can’t hurt. Right?

Although they come in various weights, most sashiko fabrics are heavy and utilitarian, and its use in contemporary garments generally reflects that fact. Outerwear and the occasional heavy pant are where you’ll most often find it, and a handful of companies offer street clothing made from the hard-wearing fabric.

It’s a characterful fabric to be sure. Not only is the texture very distinctive, but the fade patterns (oh, yes – we must talk about those) result in beautiful contrast after some heavy wear. But more than that, one of the things that I like the most about the sashiko chesterfield I own (it’s from Blue Blue Japan) is that it’s a good stand-in for a leather jacket. Like a hide, it’s tough at first, but with use will soften up and mold to your body. It’s not as restrictive, either, which depending on who you are I suppose could be either a good or a bad thing. Plus, you can wash sashiko garments in cold water the way you would a pair of denim. Here’s how mine looks after a couple of years of wear:

img_0508

Speaking of Blue Blue Japan, they’re a favorite of the Styleforum editorial team (and carried at affiliate No Man Walks Alone), and they offer several sashiko garments, including chesterfields and a great hunting jacket for this season (you can read about our visit to their showroom here). So does Gaijin Made, another Seilin brand. Kapital makes a range of sashiko-reinforced denim that they refer to as the “Century” line.  Luxire, another Styleforum affiliate, now offers a sashiko jacket as well. Newer brands, such as Nine Lives, attempt to marry American heritage with Japanese workwear traditions, which results in clothing such as a sashiko-gusseted yak leather rider’s jacket.

The point is that, if you’re interested in giving sashiko a shot, there’s probably a piece of clothing out there that will appeal to you, whether it’s one of Blue Blue Japan’s more elegant pieces, or a rock ‘n roll indigo leather from Nine Lives.

One final note is that most sashiko garments, by virtue of the fabric weight and thickness, are relatively heavy and structured. They’re also often backed with another layer of cotton canvas, so don’t expect a great deal of “drape.” Instead, you get some nice creasing effects that really come to life as you wear the garment in. Do note that the weight of these fabrics varies depending on what the maker has in mind, so I recommend inquiring with a retailer before you buy. For example, Blue Blue Japan is offering a lighter-weight sashiko fabric this year that appears as a beautiful women’s robe-style overcoat, and some of Gaijin Made’s outerwear is designed to be lightweight.

Regardless of the garment, sashiko fabric is made to last. It’s abrasion-resistant, and despite being a cotton weave it’s tight and thick enough to use as a winter layer in many climates, especially when worn on top of a heavy knit. If you’d like to make a sashiko garment part of your wardrobe – and I recommend it – expect it to last a long time. And wear it hard, because that’s the point.

Cheers, Brexit: Save on Fine British Accessories

With the British pound at a historic low against the dollar, American shoppers can finally indulge in guilt-free purchases of fine British accessories by treating themselves to some exquisite items from the land of Her Majesty.  It’s even sweeter if you think that a recent change in tariff regulations now allows buyers to spend up to $800 each day without paying duty on products shipped from abroad.

In case you’re short of inspiration, here’s a shortlist of some of the best and finest British goods that will instantly make you look like a distant, distinguished, cousin of the Prince of Wales.

ettinger-billfold-wallet-red-lining

Available at https://www.ettinger.co.uk/

#1 An Ettinger Billfold Wallet

Instantly up your style with one of Ettinger’s classic billfolds. Lined in contrasting leather, you can choose to have 3, 6, or 12 credit card slots, a coin purse, and even opt for silver or gold corners to protect your precious pocketbook from wear and tear. Pretend to not notice all the glances of admiration as you pull it out to pay for your next coffee with the money you saved from the weakened pound.


Available at http://www.purdey.com/

Available at http://www.purdey.com/

#2 A Classic Outerwear Piece from Purdey

If a Burberry trenchcoat seems way too clichè nowadays, you can class up your wardrobe with one of Purdey’s stunning outerwear pieces. The highlight of the collection is a luxurious leather quilted paddock coat (a type of traditional hunting or sporting coat used in the UK) that is both lightweight and warm.


Available at http://www.swaineadeneybrigg.com/

Available at http://www.swaineadeneybrigg.com/

#3 Briefcase & Umbrella by Swaine Adeney Brigg

It would be a shame to buy one without the other. Brigg’s handmade umbrellas are famous worldwide, and it’s not uncommon to see their signature polished chestnut handles hanging on royal arms.

Swaine Adeney briefcases are a monument to British craftsmansip. If you feel like being a touch more adventurous, choose their Attache case: originally commissioned as a Diplomat’s case in the 1800s, this model has been made since then using the same, ancient process that involves hand stitching with natural linen thread.


Available at http://turnbullandasser.com/

Available at http://turnbullandasser.com/

#4 A classic shirt from Turnbull and Asser

There will never be a better time to stock up on elegant white shirts, perhaps the one item that everyone can agree is a classic and timeless staple of a man’s wardrobe. Like a blank canvas, a white shirt is the starting point of any outfit. Each T&A shirt is made in Gloucester using hand-operated sewing machines from 33 individual pieces of high-quality cotton, making it a covetable piece for any classic menswear obsessives and fashion aficionados alike. Make sure to splurge on some Sea Island Cotton if you only want the best of the best.


Available at http://www.equusleather.co.uk/

Available at http://www.equusleather.co.uk/

#5 A bridle leather belt from Equus

Equus has been a longtime forum favorite, and since you no longer have to tighten the belt on your finances when shopping – thanks to the current state of sterling – you can proudly tighten a new, handmade leather belt on your waist instead. Equus specializes in bridle leather belts using leather from venerable English tanneries Sedgewick and Bakers of Coylton, but recently have been producing belts using leather from European tanneries like France’s Tannerie Haas. They also use buckles specially commissioned from French silver and goldsmiths and Japanese master blacksmiths.


Available at https://www.drakes.com/

Available at https://www.drakes.com/

#6 Anything from Drake’s

Drake’s website is a cornucopia of goods that would tempt anyone who’s into classic clothing. Styleforum members have a soft spot for Drake’s accessories, and swear by their handmade ties and archival-printed pocket squares. We have it on good authority that our editor Jasper has a thing for the unicorns.  Load up on Christmas presents and upgrade to high class stocking-stuffers.

Sunday Styles: Knit ‘n Easy

outfit-grid-9b

Speaking of knit ties, let’s take a look at an easy way to embrace some color and texture for fall. Tweed sport coats pair wonderfully with knit neckwear, and a simple oxford stripe shirt with easy-wearing trousers and shoes is a simple way to look great. In this case, the green of the knit tie is subdued without being boring, and picks up the texture of the jacket.

1. Grey Tweed Sport Coat, Kent Wang

2. Drake’s Knit Tie, Gentlemen’s Footwear

3. Oxford Stripe Shirt, Epaulet

4. Rota Trousers, No Man Walks Alone

5. Warwick Single Monk, Allen Edmonds

6. Robert Jensen Pocket Square, Khaki’s of Carmel

Good Buy: Tricker’s Stow

I had a pair of Tricker’s Stow boots once upon a time. Great boots. Comfy, stylish, and nicely-made. Casual, certainly, but the fact that you can wear them 5-6 months out of the year where I live means they see a lot of use. Sadly, my pair are no longer with me, but ever since they left I’ve been contemplating picking up a replacement. The number of suede models available at the moment has made this compulsion more noticeable.

According to my girlfriend, I have a mild obsession with suede boots. This, despite the fact that I’ve managed to cut my collection down to two pairs – but she’s right that I’m always looking for more. The perceived fragility – and I say perceived, because most suedes really aren’t fragile at all – of suede boots has never bothered me, and I tend to wear them anywhere and anytime I’d wear any other shoe.

I don’t know if there’s a rule about suede boots being perfect for autumn written in the Style Rulebook somewhere, but the combination of texture and depth of color that suede offers lends itself to autumn foliage and chilly mornings and all of that 90’s rom-com stuff.

As loathe as I am to revel in the sorrow of others, the current state of the British pound means that ordering directly from Tricker’s is a pretty attractive proposition. Currently, they’re sitting at about 480USD, which, while not exactly pocket change, is a fair bit cheaper than you’ll find them at most North American sellers. If, like me, you’re constantly contemplating another boot purchase, take a quick look at what Tricker’s has up on their website – maybe I’ll see you out on the moors some day, and we can have a “SAME BOOTS” moment.

Here’s the full line of Tricker’s country boots – suede and otherwise

Sunday Styles: Urban Explorer

outfit-grid-8

Functional clothing never felt so good. The combination of a sharp utility jacket, heavy chinos, and fine cashmere means that everywhere you go this fall you’ll be prepared – and comfortable. Comfortable suede derbies round out the walkability of this look, and rugged luggage from Master-Piece will keep your prized positions safe from autumn weather.

1. Engineered Garments “Bedford” from Portland Dry Goods

2. John Laing Cashmere Rollneck from Hang Project

3. Canvas “Rivet” Chino from Epaulet NY

4. Chatham Windsor Derby from A Fine Pair of Shoes

5. Master-Piece Backpack from No Man Walks Alone