5 Essentials of Neapolitan Style

In general, the Neapolitan style is “simple” – the Neapolitan gentleman will be not be perfect in every way, but he will be elegant and nonchalant. With that in mind, here are the five essentials of my wardrobe.


  1. Neapolitan Jacket, either in brown or blue. The Neapolitan jacket is unique in having a light, casual structure, which makes it perfect for both casual wear and tailored outfits.  Many people love the soft, easy feeling of wearing one, as a good Neapolitan jacket is like a second skin.image4


  2. Striped Shirt, of which there are several possibilities. White and blue, white and light blue, and white and green are all very useful standbys, and are simple but never boring. Called bacchettato napoletano, these shirts are wearable on all occasions, with or without a tie.image8


  3. Madder silk tie, in beige, burgundy, dark green, or blue. These offer a versatile, colorful background that is easy to wear with an odd jacket and trouser, or with a suit. There are of course many other tie options, but madder silk is always a good choice. 
  4. image3


  5. Pleated trouser, in any fabric. It should be 4 seasons-appropriate, however, because in Naples it’s warm through the winter. The accepted look is to have only a single pleat, and to accompany it with a 4.5cm cuff. This keeps the silhouette trim, while maintaining the relaxed shape and feel that Neapolitan style is known for.

    image6



  6. Loafer/tassel loafer in suede or leather. For go-anywhere, comfortable style, the tassel loafer is a great choice all year round. It’s also an excellent travel shoe, as it slips on and off and can easily be fit into your luggage.image1

You can find more of Nicola’s thoughts and writing at www.nicolaradano.com, where he discusses his youthful take on Neapolitan style. Nicola’s ties are available at Spacca Neapolis

How to Jump Into Bespoke

Today I’m in a salon in San Francisco with my wife.  The stylist asks how she wants her hair, and as she responds, she’s also using her hands almost like paintbrushes, drawing invisible lines here and there to indicate bob and bang length.  Then she points to a picture of a model on a wall.

“Like that.” 

Getting a bespoke suit follows a similar path.  We have an image in our mind and say to ourselves, “I want to look like that.”  Getting to look like that can be tricky.  Where to begin?  The following steps should help you on your way.

Decide what style you want. This cannot be overemphasized.  When you look at a picture of a suit you like, what exactly about it attracts you?  Is it the roping on the sleevehead, clean chest, and precise lines?  Or maybe you’re drawn to the roundness of the shoulders, gentle drape and curves, and soft tailoring.  Perhaps you like them all, but what do you see yourself in?  Nail that down, and proceed to step two.

Find a tailor that makes what you like as the house style.  This can be tough.  Generally speaking, there are three types of tailoring: British, American, and Italian.  The tailoring houses in the respective countries roughly adhere to the local style, but even within there are differences.  There are several threads on Styleforum that focus on various tailoring houses and geographical particularities; peruse them to pinpoint the one that most appeals to you.  These will get you started:

THE ANDERSON & SHEPPARD EXPATRIATES THREAD900x900px-ll-1f6ab035_i-79sdpzv-x2

FRENCH TAILORING THREAD

ANTONIO LIVERANO, FLORENTINE TAILOR

EAST SICILY TAILORS

 


Decide if you are willing to travel.  If so, you can go to any tailor you want, with only time and your budget to hold you back.  If not, you need to limit your choices to traveling tailors.  Here are a couple threads on StyleForum with tailors that travel to the US:

STEED TAILORS

WW CHAN

Plan the logistics of your travel.  Earlier this year I went to Sicily and wanted to try the tailors there.  When planning for the trip, I started to look for hotels and rental car agencies.  Many of these are available online in English, and email communication is also in English.  ProTip for car rental: InterRent is reliable and crazy cheap, often $20 a day or less for a car.  Their offices are sometimes located away from the airport but they do provide shuttle service.  Hotels usually speak English, and depending on your pocketbook, Sicily can provide unforgettable accommodations.

Set900x900px-ll-2505fe4a_tumblr_mltkm24ltx1rf1jvro1_1280 up an appointment. Many Italian tailoring shops don’t speak English, so along with other useful questions such as “Qual’è il miglior vino della casa?” you need to learn simple phrases to set up your appointment.  In this regard, utilize the many online translation sites, or language apps to use on your smartphone.  Or try this:  “Buongiorno, mi chiamo Peter. Voglio venire alla sua sartoria il diciannove ottobre alle 3 di pomeriggio. Va bene per lei?”

Since I speak conversational Italian, I called to let both tailors know the dates and general time of day I would be coming, which I did again about a week before my departure date. Most tailors will not discuss prices over the phone, so while it’s good to have a ballpark figure, be prepared for a somewhat fluid policy.  Allow at least a week for the first visit, first fitting, a possible second fitting, and the finished product.  If staying for less time, most tailors are willing to ship to you at cost. 

But what do you do once you get there?  What can you expect?  What do you ask?  I asked venerable StyleForum members to share their experiences, and next week’s Journal will reveal their responses.

Styleforum endorses the Ami double-breasted overcoat

One of the perks of going to a winter wedding is that you’ll get to wear an overcoat, which makes your outfit feel so much more substantial than anything you can wear in the summer.  I’m 42 now, which means that most of my friends were married over a decade ago (the average age at which people get married, according to a quick google search, is about 29, in the USA).  However, I have a large extended family, which means that I have a lot of younger cousins who are just now tying the knot, hitching the horse, or whatever euphemism you wish to use.  This means that my 15 year old overcoat will probably not fit any more.  And while I wouldn’t mind spring $3K on that casentino overcoat from Liverano&Liverano I saw in Florence a few years ago, I won’t need it that often (my family is not that big, nor do I need to wear suits that often). And with kids of my own, and a house, and all of that stuff that cost money, $3K seems a bit extravagant right now.  So, I’ve decided to go with this Ami double-breasted overcoat, which hits all the right style notes, and is the right price too.

Double-breasted camel hair overcoats are one of the few overcoats that have sporting, rather than military, roots, and originally appeared as a cover-up on the sidelines, apparently at polo matches.  Even though features in the original coat changed as it became a staple in both the UK and at American Universities, with two columns of buttons replacing the original belt, the original inspiration for the beige colored, double-breasted overcoat with flapped patch pockets is still quite recognizable.  It soon became an overcoat that was used for occasions of differing formality levels.  I saw this on East Coast campuses a lot in the noughties, and more and more throughout the general populace as long coats have become more and more popular for casual use, in this decade.

Of course, clothing evolves, and today’s versions of polo coats so often have details added or taken away that it’s probably best to just descriptively call the thing a double-breasted camel overcoat, to avoid arguments about whether it’s more like a polo coat, or more like a military greatcoat, or whatever.  It’s fun to discuss and argue the distinctions in an online discussion on Styleforum, of course.

Parisian brand Ami, founded by Marc Jacobs and Dior alum Alexandre Mattiussi, concentrates on contemporary sartorial basics and good approachable prices.  I’ve heard it called the heir apparent to A.P.C., and each collection includes robust similar sportwear and military inspired pieces in narrow and straight cuts that characterize early A.P.C., the brand is a little more urbane, a little more like that other French stalwart brand -Agnes B.

The original versions of this coat were apparently made of camelhair.  This coat uses the 80% wool/20% polyamide blend melton that is common in many modern overcoats, with the polyamide lending strength to a thinner material than would have been previously used.  Purists sometimes scoff and make sour faces at the use of synthetics, but I see it as an acceptable concession to modern tastes, which tend towards lighter weight fabrics.  I personally love the 32 ounce traditional melton, but I know that a lot of guys balk at that weight.  Also, textiles sciences has made great strides since the 1970s, when synthetics developed their bad reputation, and the old, still lingering, negative ideas about them are simply inaccurate.

The new version of the double-breasted overcoat also has a slim fit, which is quite different from the boxy fit of the original coat, and has set in, flapped pockets, rather than the original patch pockets.  Both I see as merciful changes made for the non-perfect physique.

Ami doublebreasted overcoat, $840 at www.mrporter.com

ami double-breasted overcoat

Ami doublebreasted overcoat, $840 at www.mrporter.com

Five Aging Menswear Trends That Need to Die

Although all of us at Styleforum are as pleased as punch with the explosion of interest in men’s clothing and fashion that has accompanied the new millennium, there have been a few aging menswear trends that made our teeth hurt when they were new and aren’t treating us any better now. Some of them are still clinging to life, and that needs to stop. The usual Styleforum disclaimers apply: it is, of course, possible to embrace the entire list below and look great. Theoretically. In a parallel universe, maybe. If you’re still hanging on to all of these, I’m sorry. For you.


  1. Wooden Bead BraceletsYou know what we’re talking about. For a good five years, iGents the world over had these bracelets stacked halfway up one or both arms (and, we assume, sock-less legs as well). As an idea, we fully support men’s jewelry – and even the odd bead. But they have become the grown man’s elastic band bracelet; the ideal way to show how cultured and worldly you are, collected without thought or intention. Thankfully, this trend has almost killed itself off, but to everyone still in denial: please. Let it die.

  2. “Fun” SocksThey don’t make you more interesting. They don’t show your personality. If you honest-to-god love your bright pink argyle, fish scale, or curled-mustache socks, we can’t stop you. But no one’s going to find you more daring, more exciting, or any bolder than you would be if you were sporting a sock that didn’t suggest you also sleep in a race car bed (Disclaimer: if you sleep in a race car bed, that’s awesome and please send us photos).

  3. Contrast ButtonholesWe’re not sure who thought this up or why. Perhaps men were having trouble finding their buttonholes, hence reduced to running around in a state of unbuttoned panic. Perhaps internet MTM companies needed a thousandth feature to grant a $1 upcharge. Or perhaps, in an era of endless customization, men in search of ways to make themselves stand out thought that red thread around a white buttonhole was the best way to show off their sartorial chops. The absolute worst offenders are contrasting buttonholes combined with busily-patterned shirts, most of which have extra-tall power collars and contrasting cuffs. Most egregiously, these made their way onto the cuffs and lapels of sport coats, which…sorry, I was too busy retching to finish that sentence. Just Say No.

  4. Contrasting Cuff Dress Shirts

    I’m not sure how to feel about these. On the face of it, a shirt (or jacket) that hides a special fabric reserved only for the wearer is perhaps the most Styleforumish of affectations, and one that I cannot ideologically oppose. However, when contrast cuffs are combined with the in-your-face stripes and collars (also contrasting on the underside) of Jermyn-inspired clubwear, men the world over are done a disservice. This is the ultimate boss form of the “going-out shirt,” and should be avoided at all costs. There’s no better way to say “Hi! I’m probably an asshole.”

    Addendum: Contrast Anything, Come to Think of It

    Yellow shoelaces? No. Purple collar tips? Please.  If it seems like a gimmick, it probably is – and a gimmick does not a well-dressed man make.


  5. Teensy-tiny ties with tie clipsI blame Mad Men, and by extension, JCrew. For a couple of years there, every other man on the street had declared himself dapper, a man’s man, by virtue of jacket lapels skinny as a pinky finger, a tie as narrow as a pencil, and to top it off – a tie clip (need we mention the ubiquitous gingham shirt?). Okay, I may be conflating a few different trends there, but they definitely went hand-in-hand, and were usually found beneath thick-framed retro spectacles.  It’s one thing to bring the 60’s back, it’s another to use your lemming powers for the sake of looking like an anonymous office drone. It’s not minimalism, people. It’s just bad.

    There’s a lot to be said for a tie that doesn’t make you look like you’re performing at a high school rock show, but to be fair, this has deep, deep roots. It reappeared in the mainstream alongside the the geek-chic look of the early 2000’s (we’ve talked about this before), but it’s not Joe Craft-Sixpack who’s to blame for the resurgence of the skinny-tie-and-bar. After all, who doesn’t want to look like Mick Jagger in his younger days? Sadly, at this point, the romance has become mundane. We must insist that your ties – and your lapels – increase to a respectable width. And please – leave the tie clip at home.

    There you have it: five of the most egregious aging menswear trends that really, desperately need to be buried. Does this list mean you’re not allowed to embrace color or personality? Of course not. It means that even when you’re dressing with the times, good taste should govern your stylistic decisions. Because “more, more, more” has never been a particularly effective guiding philosophy, and that extends to clothing.

Knit Ties and How to Wear Them

The knit tie is a strange but wonderful beast. It is by no means a wardrobe staple, but neither is it associated with frivolity. In the global circles of menswear lovers, it has become something of a hallmark of the well-dressed hobbyist. And if you’re a Styleforum member, there’s a good chance you already have a collection of these. But if you don’t (and let’s face it – Styleforum represents a small percentage of men worldwide), and if you’re interested in neckwear, this is a chance for you to discover what could become a new favorite accessory.

The knit tie, in its current state, has been around since the 1920’s more or less unchanged. Once adopted by the Ivy set, the knit tie is now a staple of American and Italian tailored wardrobes, often found worn with oxford cloth shirts. They show up everywhere from JCrew to Charvet. These days, you’ll most often see ties knit from silk due to the sheen from the fabric’s texture, but wools and cottons are an equally good choice and are by no means a “step down,” depending on the look you have in mind.

To Knit, or Not to Knit

A knit tie isn’t an evening tie. Let’s get that out of the way. And although a knit tie may be office-appropriate depending on where you work, it is by and large informal neckwear. A grenadine is a more elegant option for most occasions, including a conservative business wardrobe. That means you have to consider when, really, you should wear one. Although they’re more commonly worn with an odd jacket and trousers, you can indeed wear a knit tie with a suit, as long as the cut and material are appropriate – for example, a three-piece peak lapel suit will probably look out of place with a knit tie, but a tweed jacket with chinos and chukkas may be just right. As another possibility, a black knit tie with a navy notch-lapel suit can look impeccable if the outfit is put together well. Note that there are no hard and fast rules, but that certain combinations may be more successful.

Remember that a knit tie is still a tie, even if it can be an eye-grabbing touch to bring together an outfit. Rules for tie-wearing still apply, and the fun of knit ties doesn’t mean that taste can be tossed out the window. A knit tie can be contrasting or complementary, but do try to avoid mashing together too many styles or patterns at once. The line between quirky, stylish dressing and gaudy dressing is often thin, and forcing too many elements into one outfit is a good way to wind up with the latter.

As in all things, trust in your own good taste – and be aware that life doesn’t exist solely through an Instagram lens. Or, barring that, post a picture on Styleforum and ask for feedback.

How knot to wear one (heh heh)

On that note, we at Styleforum have noticed, over the last few years, an attempt to make the skinny knit tie a rugged accessory to be worn with denim and boots. Often, they’re paired with a plaid or denim work-shirt (this latter is a different beast from a chambray or denim shirt to be worn under a jacket). You’ve probably seen this look before, since it has been peddled in men’s style magazines and at malls across the country for the last 5-7 years.

While on some levels this is understandable – attempting to make every piece of clothing “dressy casual” seems to be the forte of Americans – the results tend to be poor. There are exceptions to every rule (and in this case an Ivy-inspired casual outfit might not be a total disaster) but we suggest not doing this. No one benefits, and the look is confused. If you are aiming for a casual, denim-based look, forego the tie, even if it’s knit.

Instead, remember again that a knit tie is still a tie. In most cases, it will look best with trousers and a jacket. You just have a bit more leeway.

Widths and Shapes

Again, the look pushed to the public in the recent past has been pencil-thin knit ties. I’d suggest not going narrower than 2.5” or so, but that 3” knit ties are quite elegant. And although you’ll most commonly find square-tipped ties, a pointed blade is by no means out of place on a knit tie.

Patterns and Colors

The whole point of a knit tie is to showcase texture. If a knit tie is knitted to look flat and lifeless, don’t buy it. It should be visibly knit, you know? Beyond that, the flavor is largely up to you. Whether you want a soft, soothing touch or a crunchy feel, you have a lot of options.

Solids are by far the easiest place to start. Navy, brown, rust, green, and even purple are great options. If you’re looking for patterns, try something subtle – simple dots, or even just a clever knit design, is usually all the pattern you’ll need with all that texture going on.

Seasonal dressing offers more for the adventurous at heart, of course. For example, Styleforum member @GusW suggests charcoal cashmere for autumn, or an eye-catching pink for springtime.

Tying Up Loose Ends

Finally, the only knot you should ever use for a knit tie is the four-in-hand. Never mind that the four-in-hand is the only tie knot you should ever use; in this case, anything else will not only make you look like a jerk, but a ridiculous jerk.

How you tie it is more or less up to you, though. Currently, the style favored by Instagram personalities and some well-dressed forum members seems to be to let the skinny end of the tie hang a bit lower and looser than the blade. I can’t argue with that – I am aware that it may be “technically” improper, if you want to loop a rakishly-tied piece of casual silk around your neck, I feel that you ought to be free to adjust lengths as you choose. As long as the blade of the tie is hitting the proper length (neither too long nor too short), the skinny end can do as it wishes.

As you may have picked up from this article, knit ties remain a popular accessory on Styleforum. Luckily for all of us, this means that there’s no shortage of excellent examples. The slideshow below shows a range of knit tie styles, and many suggestions on how to wear them. You’ll appreciate the wide range of looks demonstrated here.

Where to Buy

A number of Styleforum affiliates offer knit ties. Here are a few options:

Chipp Neckwear

No Man Walks Alone

Proper Cloth

Kent Wang

The Armoury

Khaki’s of Carmel

H. Stockton


Looking for further discussion? Try this Styleforum thread:

Knit Tie Discussion and Appreciation

 

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Seasonal Endorsement: The Roll-Neck Sweater

Fall knitwear has been arriving in stores for months now, but if you’re like some of us you’re still dying of heat. Even so, for the sake those of us with an eye on our winter wardrobes, I’d like to take a minute to discuss the venerable roll-neck sweater, which – trust me on this one – is one of the most useful, versatile, and comfortable items of clothing any man (or woman) can have in his or her closet.

First of all, let’s get the semantics out of the way. For the purposes of this article, a roll-neck sweater and a turtleneck sweater are the same thing – and both are the same as a polo-neck sweater. A true roll-neck features a tube of fabric sewn to the neckline of the shirt, which can then be pulled all the way up to the chin, or folded – or rolled – down to the neckline.

That’s in contrast to a mock-neck or mock-turtleneck sweater, on which both ends of the tube have been sewn to the neckline. I would suggest avoiding the mock-necks, as not only do they have a tendency to make the wearer look like a high school sports coach (there are, of course, exceptions), but on cold days it’s incredibly handy to be able to pull that extra fabric up to your chin if you choose.

You have a couple of good fabric options when choosing a rollneck. For simplicity’s sake, let’s discuss the general categories of cotton, wool, and cashmere variants. Cotton rollnecks – just thick shirts, really – are by far the easiest to wear and wash. Wear it as you would a t-shirt, either tucked into your trousers or worn free. I enjoy these pieces, as they’re usually less warm than actual knit rollnecks. That’s handy if you’re layering for unpredictable (or temperate) weather, but they tend not to look as sharp as the knit varieties. On the plus side, they’re cheap and available, and they’re the kind of basic that can easily be turned into part of a daily uniform. My choice is Uniqlo’s offerings, which come in thick, black cotton (although a variety of other colors are available) that’s plenty comfortable and stands up to repeated washing. These don’t come with ribbed hems, so there’s no mistaking them for a sweater. Keep in mind that cotton is still cotton – it doesn’t insulate like wool does, and if you sweat through it, it won’t be pleasant.

Your second choice is the fisherman-style heavy roll-neck, which encompasses the whole range of rural, outdoorsy, salt-n-pepper manly offerings. You can find these at a variety of outlets at a variety of prices, from LL Bean to Inis Meain. The two most important considerations for these pieces are weight and material. Consider whether you plan to layer your sweater under your outerwear (you probably are). If so, how thick do you want the fabric to be? Thick cable knits tend to work best under equally heavy coats and jackets, as the sweater won’t visually overpower the outerwear, which itself should be roomy enough for added bulk. If your sweater doesn’t fit under your coat, you’ll be neither warm nor comfortable.

Second, consider the fabric. If you have sensitive skin, or dislike scratchy things touching your neck, consider avoiding heavy wool offerings. Purists will howl, but the addition of nylon or – gasp – acrylic to a wool blend (sometimes a hallmark of a cheaper or more fashion-forward knit) can make the fabric much softer to the touch.

Finally, consider the color and style. If you’re interested in any of the available fisherman-style, aran, or cable-knit sweaters, greys and oatmeals are traditional colors. If instead you’re searching for a “commando” sweater, most of which feature cotton or nylon shoulder and elbow patches, you’ll probably find a lot of blacks and dark greens. Don’t limit yourself, however – any of these options are very versatile.

Lastly, if you’re interested in luxury, you can consider a cashmere roll-neck sweater. These tend to be simple, and if they’re good they don’t need to be complicated: buttery-soft cashmere wool is enough of a focal point. They also tend to be thinner, which makes it very simple to wear one under a sport coat, vest, or other lightweight outerwear. Although there are cheaper options available at major chain stores, cashmere still tends to be expensive – from about 200$ on the low end to well over $1,000 for fancy, branded options. A cashmere sweater is by no means a wardrobe necessity – but that’s the definition of luxury, isn’t it?

 

Blacks and charcoals are the easiest colors to pair with a variety of outfits, but tans, creams, and oatmeals are fantastic if you tend towards casual wear. However, a camel roll-neck is one of the easiest colors to pair, and looks as good underneath black wool as it does with tweeds.

And that’s really what makes the roll-neck sweater so handy: it can be worn with anything. Wool or cotton options are equally at home splitting wood with the sleeves worn up (yes, people still split wood), worn under a down vest while out for cocoa, or worn under a jacket when out on a date. A thinner, shirt-weight roll-neck in any fabric looks fantastic under a sport coat, and exists in the strange but wonderful intersection between sharp and casual. You can wear the same roll-neck sweater with faded blue jeans or sharp trousers without ever looking out of place. Plus, the elongating neckline looks truly fantastic under a dramatic lapel, whether you’re wearing a suit or high-collared outerwear. It’s one of the clothing world’s few go-anywhere pieces, and whether you’re wearing Ralph Lauren or Yohji Yamamoto, there’s a place in your wardrobe for a roll-neck sweater.

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There’s No Such Thing as Dress Jeans

Let’s get this out of the way right now.  Dress jeans don’t exist. Stop using this term.  They don’t exist in real life, except here, but that’s not the life you want.  Trust me on this one.

About 10 years ago, when the NBA elevated its dress code to eliminate jeans, shouts of resistance erupted everywhere, from the players as well as the public.  Eventually, the NBA capitulated and allowed the term “business casual” (quotations theirs) which included dress jeans.

“I’ve never heard the term (dress jeans) and it’s a little scary to me,” wrote Jim Moore of GQ.  “A jean is a jean.  I think that’s a crazy, nebulous term.”

Back in the late 90s, after the grunge look of my high school years faded away like so many Miller’s Outpost stores, I remember buying my first pair of non-stonewashed jeans from JCrew.

As a San Diego transplant living in New York, I abandoned my shorts, Docs, and thrift store flannels and adopted the New England “khakis with everything” look, along with the iconic roll-neck sweater with un-hemmed edges and raglan sleeves.  It was fresh, clean, presentable.  Things were starting to get dressier.

Shortly thereafter, dark denim debuted on the scene, and ads promoting “dressing up your denim” were plastered all over New York.  Mostly with v-neck sweaters and t-shirts.  Were men ready to start dressing up again? Oh yes, and with enthusiasm that would rival Gettysburg reenactments, with tweed vests to match.

Fast-forward twenty years, and the term “dress jeans” is universal.  But its meaning remains unclear.  What are dress jeans?  Are they simply new, unwashed, and untreated denim?  Do you iron them?  Dry-clean them for colorfast-ness?

“DRESS JEANS” DO NOT EXIST. DENIM IS A RUGGED CLOTH.

Specifically, it’s an abrasion-resistant twill that was designed to be workwear – and that’s still it’s most comfortable use. That said, jeans will never go away, at least not in the near future, and it’s fine to embrace that. Will jeans ever be “dressy?”  No, they won’t.

But you can “dress them up.” There’s a difference. Here’s how.

Key to avoiding the dreaded “trying too hard” look is accepting that jeans are casual; you can only dress them up so much. Therefore, ties with jeans are out. Don’t argue. Would you wear a tiara with jeans? Of course not.  Ditch the tie; it’s reserved for formal occasions. In its place, consider the roll-neck, turtleneck, or open collar button-down shirt. Just no orphaned suit jacket, please – remember that these are jeans, not trousers.

Try a cardigan, or if you prefer a jacket, try the Harrington, trucker, bomber, moto, corduroy, or tweed sportcoat.  Jeans are great, and they’re a wonderful, versatile part of a man’s wardrobe. But know when enough is enough. Say it with me: dress jeans do not exist.

If you’re feeling stumped on how to dress up your denim without looking ridiculous, here are a few classic examples (along with a few of my own):

Sunday Styles: Museum Visit

outfit-grid-7

If you’re looking for casual style that’s perfect for a weekend museum visit, still sharp and forward-looking enough for a business meeting, look no further than Styleforum favorite Stephan Schneider. This basketweave jacket pairs beautifully with relaxed trousers and loafers to keep your feet as comfortable as the rest of you.

 

1. Stephan Schneider “Thinner” jacket from Suspension Point

2. Native Youth “Meteor” Trouser from Need Supply Co.

3. Solovier Pantome Slipper from Other-Shop

4. Wings + Horns Henley from Uncle Otis

5. Linjer Portfolio

 

Styleforum endorses: Grenadine ties

If there is anything that Styleforum community – an opinionated and sometimes grumpy group – agrees on, it is that grenadine ties are excellent.  If you look in the Styleforum WAYWT or WAYWN (“What are you wearing today/now”), you’ll see ties made of grenadine, a open, nearly gauzy woven fabric that used to be worn as (black) lace in France,   in many of our members’ outfits, often in muted colors.

Grenadine ties certainly work with traditional business suits, they also work really well with more “fashion” oriented suits.  In any grenadine tie, whether it’s a “large” or “small” weave,  there are lustrous yarns and a three dimensional, textured, surface.  This combination ensures that all but the cheapest grenadines will look rich.

In the Classic menswear section of the forum, subdued ties with small, repeating patterns, are considered integral to the wardrobe.  This is in part because many of the discussions are geared not just towards classic menswear, but more specifically, towards business attire.  In the Streetwear&Denim section, suits are seen as a starting point for a fashionable outfit.  In the relatively few outfits posted that include ties, feature minimalist, solid colored ones.

Vanda Styleforum burgundy bourette grenadine ties

Vanda x Styleforum burgundy bourette grenadine tie to benefit The Ronald McDonald House of Spokane

Grenadine ties, because of their highly textured weave, do not require a pattern for them to be suitable for business ready outfits which makes the grenadine time one of those rare moments when the classic agrees with the modern.   Sean Connery’s James Bond regularly wore grenadine ties as well.  In our “Menswear Advice” forum for all of those pesky questions you are not sure where to ask, the answer “wear a burgundy or navy grenadine tie” is nearly always going to be an adequate answer.

This is one of the reasons that when we decided to the first Styleforum tie in the good part of a decade, earlier this year, we went with a burgundy with navy grenadine tie with Vanda (the majority of the profits of this tie went to support the Ronald McDonald House of Spokane.)

Here are a few of the forum’s other favorites:

Vanda Silk and Cashmere Grenadine tie: because you don’t get much more luxurious for fall.

Vanda navy silk and cashmere grenadine ties

Vanda navy silk and cashmere grenadine tie

 

Drake’s “Petrol” grenadine tie: Drake’s has been a perennial favorite with menswear enthusiasts both on Styleforum and beyond, for years, now.  $155 via MrPorter

 Drakes Kingsman Petrol Silk Grenadine tie

Drakes Kingsman Petrol Silk Grenadine tie

Chipp neckwear Wine grenadine tie – because a grenadine tie can also be had on a budget.  $55

Chipp wine grenadine tie

Chipp wine grenadine tie

How to Pair White Pants and a Jacket

Since we all know it’s just fine to wear white after Labor Day, let’s take a moment to discuss how to pair white pants and a jacket. White is an excellent choice for late summer and early fall, and is a solid staple for both daytime and casual evening looks, particularly when white trousers are paired with a jacket.

It’s a forgiving base for any combination, and if you can keep them clean they’ll be as versatile as your favorite grey trousers without any business connotations. I myself favor a no-break or even slightly cropped (not highwater) trouser hem, particularly for a lightweight pant. White or off-white trousers in heavier fabrics such as flannels (yes, you can wear white into winter) take well to a range of autumnal colors, so you can keep wearing them through the winter – just avoid slushy days.

For casual summer looks, it’s easiest to pair a lightweight or unstructured jacket, as a relaxed shape adds to the breeziness. However, that doesn’t mean that strong tailoring looks out of place with white – on the contrary, a sharp jacket – particularly a double-breasted jacket – can work equally well.

Keep in mind that a white shirt likely won’t be the best choice when wearing white pants and a jacket. I favor blues and greens, as these colors don’t immediately connote golf courses the way brighter colors – such as a pink – might.  In particular, I find that a washed chambray – or even a midnight navy for an evening outfit – looks good with a wide range of jacket connotations and offers enough versatility that you don’t look as though you’re permanently stuck at a barbecue.

There are a few pitfalls to watch out for. First is to make sure you’re not wearing skin-tight pants, which is less of an issue with trousers than it is with jeans or chinos. White leggings aren’t flattering on anyone. Second, if you’re wearing linen or other lightweight trousers, do an underwear check – some fabrics tend towards translucency. And third, keep them clean. While colored trousers – and white jeans – can take some abuse and look no worse (or even better!) for it, white trousers tend to take on all the charm of a used napkin when they get dirty.

Otherwise, think of white as a blank canvas and trust your own tastes – and be sure to share your results on Styleforum’s What Are You Wearing Today thread.

If you’re in search of a starting place for your white-trousered looks, here are two suggestions to give you a push:


how to pair white pants and a jacket

1. Jacket: Ring Jacket from The Armoury

2. Shirt: G. Inglese from No Man Walks Alone

3. Pants: Luigi Borrelli from Shop the Finest

4. Shoes: Dundee boots from Allen Edmonds

5. Square: Monsieur Fox from Exquisite Trimmings

6. Belt: Walnut leather from Proper Cloth


 

how to pair white pants and a jacket

 

1. Jacket: DB Jacket by Epaulet

2. Shirt: White linen by Proper Cloth

3. Tie: Sky blue grenadine by Kent Wang

4. Pants: Off-white “Jort” by SuitSupply

5. Belt: Black leather by Miler Menswear

6. Shoes: Carls Santos swan-neck oxford from A Fine Pair of Shoes

7. Square: Rubinacci from Skoaktiebolaget