The Oxford Cloth Button Down -also knows as OCBD- needs no more words written on its behalf. It’s the quintessential American menswear invention, beloved the world over. Styleforum has an extensive thread dedicated to its charming collar shape.
Since the #menswear movement focused a new generation of people on this cherished classic, the market has responded with even more options for those seeking the perfect roll, the right collar point length, and the most authentic styling.
Some are content with a Polo Ralph Lauren pony shirt from Macy’s; others stock up on button-downs from Costco because they’re required to dress a certain way for work; others buy the basics from Uniqlo or J.Crew. But those of us whose imaginations have been caught by the insouciance of an unlined collar, the litany of cool people who have worn them, and the timeless appeal of the classic OCBD have more great makers to choose from than ever.
In an effort to help those trying to choose whose OCBD to buy, I made a couple of diagrams categorizing the bigger names. American-made? Unlined collar? Slim fit? Custom fit? Under $100? Just check the diagram and find the maker that suits you.
Click on the image to open a larger file.
Below is a list of the makers I’ve chosen, including their price point and some other details worth nothing (such as whether the collar shape takes a more pointed expression or a more spread expression).
If there are any major makers of OCBDs that deserve to be on this list, let me know in a comment below or in the OCBD thread on Styleforum. I obviously can’t include every company that makes an OCBD, but those that are making a product with a great collar roll should be represented.
Drakes – Point expression, $195
Brooks Brothers – Point expression, unlined, made in America, regularly on sale for $100 or less
Ratio – Point, expression unlined, custom, made in America, $100
Mercer – Point expression, unlined, fits like a sail, made in America, $125+
O’Connell’s – Point expression, unlined, $140
J.Press – Point expression, fused lining, $125, made in USA
Michael Spencer – Point expression, unlined, custom, made in USA, $140
Gitman Brothers Gold – Point expression, fused interlining, made in USA, $140
Gitman Vintage – Point expression, unlined, alpha sized, $165
Proper cloth – Spread expression, custom fit, $100
Kamakura – Spread expression, unfused light interlining, made in Japan, $89
Spier & Mackay – Spread expression, fused interlining, $55 RTW, $85 MTM
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