The Complete Guide to OCDB (Oxford Cloth Button Down) Shirts: Makers, Interfacings, MTM, Prices.

ocbd shirt syleforum collar
OCBD shirt worn by SF member zbroner.

The Oxford Cloth Button Down -also knows as OCBD- needs no more words written on its behalf. It’s the quintessential American menswear invention, beloved the world over. Styleforum has an extensive thread dedicated to its charming collar shape.

Since the #menswear movement focused a new generation of people on this cherished classic, the market has responded with even more options for those seeking the perfect roll, the right collar point length, and the most authentic styling.

Some are content with a Polo Ralph Lauren pony shirt from Macy’s; others stock up on button-downs from Costco because they’re required to dress a certain way for work; others buy the basics from Uniqlo or J.Crew. But those of us whose imaginations have been caught by the insouciance of an unlined collar, the litany of cool people who have worn them, and the timeless appeal of the classic OCBD have more great makers to choose from than ever.

In an effort to help those trying to choose whose OCBD to buy, I made a couple of diagrams categorizing the bigger names. American-made? Unlined collar? Slim fit? Custom fit? Under $100? Just check the diagram and find the maker that suits you.

Click on the image to open a larger file.

Below is a list of the makers I’ve chosen, including their price point and some other details worth nothing (such as whether the collar shape takes a more pointed expression or a more spread expression).

If there are any major makers of OCBDs that deserve to be on this list, let me know in a comment below or in the OCBD thread on Styleforum. I obviously can’t include every company that makes an OCBD, but those that are making a product with a great collar roll should be represented.

OCBD Makers

Drakes – Point expression, $195

Brooks Brothers – Point expression, unlined, made in America, regularly on sale for $100 or less

Ratio – Point, expression unlined, custom, made in America, $100

Mercer – Point expression, unlined, fits like a sail, made in America, $125+

O’Connell’s – Point expression, unlined, $140

J.Press – Point expression, fused lining, $125, made in USA

Michael Spencer – Point expression, unlined, custom, made in USA, $140

Gitman Brothers Gold – Point expression, fused interlining, made in USA, $140

Gitman Vintage – Point expression, unlined, alpha sized, $165

Proper cloth – Spread expression, custom fit, $100

Kamakura – Spread expression, unfused light interlining, made in Japan, $89

Spier & Mackay – Spread expression, fused interlining, $55 RTW, $85 MTM

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Mitchell Moss

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18 thoughts on “The Complete Guide to OCDB (Oxford Cloth Button Down) Shirts: Makers, Interfacings, MTM, Prices.

  1. LL Bean has very nice OCBDs available in either traditional, slightly fitted or slim fit from $45-60. Plus, for an extra $8 (or free if you have the LL Bean credit card) you can get your shirt monogrammed on the cuff or pocket.

    • Landsend Sail Rigor OCBD is a nice heavy shirt that is must iron (untreated), unlined collar, with a locker loop and back collar button as well. The Hyde Park OCBD don’t have the last 2 details but are must iron (not treated) and have a unlined collar. The collars on both don’t have much of a roll but good compromise between too little and too long. Good quality and fit, but made overseas, which is why they cost less.

        • I have Sail Riggers that is 100% cotton. It is excellent quality in terms of fit (Tailored)
          Problem with the Landsend is that they keep on changing their fabric. I bought it in Feb 2019.

  2. The illustration is quite “Preppy”. To quote Miss Jean Brodie (Maggie Smith), “The Prime Of Miss Jean Brodie”…”For those who like that sort of thing, that is the sort of thing they like”. LOL.

    Clothing styles are very personal and each of us possess the right, in a free society, to our own expression in clothing, whether or not it is viewed by others as cool, slick, reserve or outlandish.

    Perhaps it is due to my narrowness, as I have never been able to successfully visualize the matching of a powder-blue button collar oxford shirt and tan Khaki trousers. For some reason that color combination appears, at least to me, off balance, like eating chocolate chip cookies and washing it down with prune juice rather than milk.
    However, I would imagine that there is someone out there that loves cookies and prune juice (together).

    • If you have trouble visualising a powder blue shirt with tan khakis go to any US airport or office-based business and you will see as many as you need to assist with your visualisation. It is the ubiquitous unimaginative uniform of the business casual office drone. When illusions of democracy have been realised and I become President For Life I will outlaw this atrocious combination on pain of death!

      • I hope you will outlaw polo shirts in offices and casual Fridays before you outlaw the uniform of the preps.

  3. Kamakura makes a new ‘Sport’ model with unlined collar and cuffs, the collar features longer points. They’re a great option for a soft, casual look.

  4. I have examined all of these shirts except Michael Spencer. The website is vague, so I assume they are made in one of the same factories as some of the other shirts.

    I will not comment on fit. That is a personal prefrence.
    Kamakura is the best of this list. Construction and price.
    Underpriced in my opinion.. these shirts are not made in an automated factory.

    Drakes is the best quality. I have not seen anything out of their factory since they bought it. I will assume quality is the same.

    Find a 30 year old Gittman shirt and compare it to one out of the factory today. The shirts made in the Ashland, PA factory today are embarrisingly bad. Shelly and Al Gittman would cry to see their name on this garment.

    Brooks brothers like Gittman is not what it was since the Garland, NC factory was upgraded by the same people who make shirts for Proper cloth. Ratio makes their shirts there.

    Not sure where O’connells and J Press are producing these days.
    Mercer still makes his shirts in a tiny shop in Ohio. No computerized equipment.

    The sad part about OCBD shirts today, is that almost all are made from the same crappy Chinese fabric kamakura seems to use a better quality then most. I will assume Drakes is buying from someone in Europe.
    If you can afford to, splurge on an OCBD made from Alumo oxford cloth. You will not want to go back……
    The Dan River Supima cotton oxford was excellent . They shut that down a long time ago. There is someone who started weaving oxford cloth in the south. I have not seen a sample of it so I can not comment.

    Mitchell, sorry if I have stepped on your well researched article. This is the type of information I am good for on Styleforum.

  5. I know he hates to “blow his own horn”, but Mr. Goldberg makes the perfect roll button down collar.
    Terry O’Connor

  6. For Spier & Mackay, you can request lined/unlined and or no fusing for the OCBD MTM collars.

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