Making Smart Menswear Purchases

In my last post, I talked about developing a capsule wardrobe. The concept behind a capsule wardrobe is that you have a small collection of stylish basics that all — or mostly all — work together. However, some of us aren’t driven by a need for simplicity. We don’t really need or want to wear a uniform, nor do we need the comfort that comes knowing that any combination of what’s in our closet will look good. Some of us just like clothes and want to look cool when we are seen by other people. This week, I’ll discuss building a versatile wardrobe by making smart menswear purchases – and more specifically, how to know whether to make those purchases.  

Popping tags is fun, and of course the fashion industry grinds on, which makes us want something a little fresh and new every once in a while. Usually, there’s a catch: most of us don’t understand the intricacies of clothing’s historical context, nor do we have the time to read it all for ourselves — nor do we have, most of us, the closet space to house all the things we would buy if time and money were no object. 

And so we make purchases based on what we like – often either what’s new or what’s on sale. “Ooh, an extra 40% off those sweet Wallace & Barnes selvedge chinos!” UPS delivers them a few days later, and you find that they don’t quite look as good with your only pair of nice shoes – museum calf double monk straps – as you thought they would.

The best way to avoid this is to use a framework for your decision-making, one that will ideally keep you from buying garments you don’t need or won’t wear. I’m going to use the metaphor of a picture frame to describe how I make these decisions: there are four sides to a frame, and each side represents a question you can ask yourself as you look through the frame at the item you’re sweating over with credit card in hand.


Question 1: how does the garment fit, formality-wise, within the context of what I wear?

I love me some military field jackets, but generally speaking, my favorite clothing is tailored. Those two don’t fit together very well, except under specific circumstances (i.e. your tailoring is very casual, or your M65 is more of a refined homage to the field jacket instead of a literal reproduction garment). Nine times out of 10, when I go to get dressed on an evening out, I’m reaching for tailoring, not “workwear” or “streetwear.” That’s okay. Other guys rock the M65 all the time, and I admire their style – but that’s just not me.

Similarly, if you only wear tees and broken-in selvedge denim, the midnight navy shawl lapel tuxedo jacket you have your eye on probably isn’t going to give you a lot of use.

For help in understanding how to answer this question from the perspective of someone who regularly wears a jacket and tie, browse the Internet archive version of Vox’s Coherent Combinations for Beginners thread. It was eye opening for me, and it may be for you too. It can help you place your different garments where they belong contextually.

Making smart menswear purchases styleforum

This M65 looked awesome, but I never wore it because none of the rest of my wardrobe at the time looked good with it. So I sold it at a loss.

Question 2: is my wardrobe seasonally balanced?

In building my wardrobe, I have tried to make sure I have good clothes to wear when it’s warm or when it’s cold. It’s hard to keep parity between the seasons because, in the world of tailoring, cold weather gear is immensely more interesting (tweeds, flannel, ancient madder, suede – you know the drill) than summer clothing. I’ve had to consciously ask myself whether what I’m looking to buy fills a more immediate need in one season or the other. You don’t want to be stylish only half the year, even if there’s never been a better deal on a cashmere crewneck than during a summer sale. Try your best to build a complete wardrobe, not one that’s full of nothing but beautiful winter coats.

Question 3: if I buy this now, will I regret it if something else on my wish list is available in a month and I can’t afford it because of this purchase?

One of the major driving forces of my life is opportunity cost. I’ve found time and again that when I get emotionally invested and buy something that isn’t a “need” so much as it is a “want,” shortly thereafter I regret the purchase because something I really do need comes available. 

Take stock of the holes in your wardrobe, and know what you need. That way, when something that makes your heart beat fast comes along, you’ll be able to honestly assess whether it’s something you need and would actually get wear out of, or if it’s just the thrill of popping tags you’re after.

Making smart menswear purchases styleforum

I spent an inordinate sum of money in alterations to try to make this vintage tweed eBay find fit. And those expenses meant a few weeks later when I stumbled on my literal dream Eidos jacket at deep discount, I had to pass for lack of funds. It was soul-crushing. Stupid tweed jacket.

Question 4: Do I already own a similar garment?

This is the one side of the frame that stands out from the rest, because it’s how you help yourself break out of your rut: how many navy polos do you have? Do you really need another one? If you got this one, would you really wear it? On the flip side, would you neglect another perfectly good navy polo that you already own?

Now, some people wear a white shirt to work every day and need multiples of things like that (and please, for all our sakes, I hope you have multiple pairs of socks and underwear). That said, when we’re talking clothes we like and are buying for pleasure, it’s important to make sure you aren’t stuck in your ways. It’s fun to grow. Our tastes and preferences in menswear, like everything else in this life, need growth to sustain our interest. Staying rooted in your style preferences doesn’t mean wearing only the basics day in and day out. Try out those combinations you see the cool blogger-types share. Sometimes you’ll look ridiculous and other times you won’t – you have to try to know for sure.

Use this frame of decision making to help you assess your purchases. If you’re anything like me, it won’t ensure you hit home runs on every purchase, but if you can keep your wits about you in the rush of sale season, you’ll be happier – and generally better dressed – in the long run.

A Guide to How Trousers Should Fit

Embdeddded photos: Peter Zottolo
All slideshow photos: Dylan & Son
After last week’s article, I received a couple PMs, DMs, and emails from various people asking how trousers should fit.  The short answer is that they should lay straight down and fit comfortably. The long answer is, well, longer. Getting trousers to fit correctly is not simply a question of making them comfortable.  Sweats are comfortable.  So is spandex.  When cut correctly, trousers can feel just as cozy, but swathe you in elegance that sweatpants will never have. Meaning you can actually leave the house in trousers.

Let’s start with the bottom and work our way up:
1) The width of the leg opening should cover about 1/2 – 3/4 of your shoe, more or less
Varying too much either way can make your foot either stick out like a ski, or be completely engulfed and unseen. The length of your trousers should be just enough to kiss the top of your shoe in the front and hit the middle of your shoe’s heel in the back.  Of course, this will vary from shoe to shoe.  Chukkas, oxfords, or heavy boots, being more substantial with a heavy sole, are vertically higher and cause the front of the pants to fold, or break.  Streamlined oxfords or loafers sit a bit lower.  Personally I like to have my trouser legs hit the top of my loafers with no break, meaning the front of the trousers stop right where they hit the vamp.  This way, heavier shoes have just a just a shiver of a break.  The crease should fall straight down and bisect the shoe in the front.  
2) The trouser should not bunch at your calves
This is extremely difficult with slim trousers, but can be addressed with bespoke.  The trouser maker will either cut or iron the trouser following the natural curve and stance of the wearer.  This allows the line to fall, curved yet unbroken, down the back of your leg.  Having your pants constantly grabbing your calves – or worse, cupping under your seat – is almost sure to happen if they’re too tight.  This in and of itself is reason enough to either widen your trousers or go bespoke.
3) Your trousers’ thighs shouldn’t be so tight as to flatten the crease
If you’re trying on a pair of trousers and notice this is the case, I’d suggest sizing up and taking in the waist.  If sending in measurements for made-to-measure, write down the width of your thigh and add at least 2 inches.  Some companies are still trying to squeeze men into sausage casings, so I’d recommend erring on the side of caution and going roomy – you can always have them slimmed down.
4) Pay attention to the seat and rise
A) If your seat and hips are too tight, you won’t have the ability to move freely and your pockets will gape.  Too loose, and you’ll end up looking like you’re hiding a diaper.  A good rule of thumb is that you should be able to put your hands in your pockets easily.  If you can’t – loosen up, bro.  Additionally, the front and back rise will ensure the pants hang properly.  If the front rise is too short, you run the risk of moose knuckle; too long and the pants will start to have horizontal folds.  If the back rise is too long, the fabric might start to bunch under your seat; too short and it’ll start to separate your cheeks.  
B) The length of your rise should be high enough so that the top of the trousers sit at your natural waist, which is right around your navel.  The low rise trend is thankfully in its death throes; more and more are wearing trousers at their proper waist and doing so stylishly.  Doing so lengthens the leg, makes movement easier, and when worn with a buttoned jacket, covers your shirt and provides a seamless transition of fabric from top to bottom.  Just don’t go too much farther north than your belly button or you risk Urkel cosplay.
5) Be realistic about waist size
As far as the waist goes, I’m realistic.  I love it when bespoke trousers fit perfectly with no belt loops or braces, but overindulgence does happen, and you’ll be thankful for an extra inch or two.  When doing so, some opt for belt loops, but I much prefer having brace buttons and side pull tabs put in.  When wearing trousers with a suit, having the trousers hang from your shoulders allows them to fall and drape beautifully, in a straight line (braces generally attach and sit directly above your feet).  Plus, cinching your waist with a belt can be uncomfortable, and adjusting it after you eat can be more trouble than its worth.  However, if you’re wearing trousers without a jacket, braces can seem a little flashy.  One option is button tabs, but they can be a bit fussy.  Pull tabs are the perfect way to fine-tune the waist of your trousers.  Mine are halfway between the waist and leg on the seam; it binds a little less than having them solely on the waist.
This is admittedly quite a bit to digest, but can easily be seen and appreciated in pictures.  A well-fitting trouser is a sight to behold.  Some of the best examples I’ve seen online are from Dylan & Son, a tailoring house in Singapore, examples of whose work can be seen in the slideshow below.  Their Instagram feed showcases some amazing trousers, not just ones they made for themselves but for various customers with less-than-ideal proportions, bowl legged stances, and everything in between.  Explanations and descriptions can be found on some posts, giving a glimpse into the art and science of clothing the anatomy.

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Member Focus: Penanceroyaltea

Penanceroyaltea largely patronizes the Streetwear and Denim side of the forum, where he’s become known for his love of floral prints and whimsical brands. Here, he talks about his journey from boring, pre-Styleforum life to his current, glorious incarnation.


Up ’til college, clothes were just a social necessity for me. Being in college meant finally being freed from a uniform, and having the chance to wear whatever I wanted. My initial foray into clothes would be considered nothing short of disastrous by Styfo standards – think garish printed shirts, baggy distressed jeans, and sneakers.

This was before the time I knew clothes on the internet existed, that people actually discussed (passionately) what they wore, took pictures of themselves (!) and submitted themselves to possible ridicule from the peanut gallery. I didn’t read about fashion, in print or on the web. No one really cared about style in my social circle, and where I’m from, it is a desert of t-shirts, cargo shorts, jeans and flip flops.

It was my during second year of college that I travelled to Tokyo for the first time, and man was my mind blown when I was there. Never had I felt so underdressed, poorly coiffed and shabby. All these Japanese men with perfectly manicured, gravity defying hair, ineffably styled outfits, those narrow pointy shoes, and manbags! I could never get over the manbags.

Suitably inspired, I revamped my little wardrobe of garish printed shirts and baggy distressed jeans with… more garish printed shirts and baggy distressed jeans. Paul Smith, Ted Baker and Buffalo denim were my grails and I stunted on multi colored, paneled leather Japanese Alfredo Bannister sneakers.

After graduation, with a disposable income during the advent of the #menswear movement, I decided that I had to have a suit. Mr. Porter had just come online and I was a proud founding member (and bargain-basement-end-season-sales-only-shopper). Style to me was a navy blazer, white shirt, blue jeans, brown brogues and aviators. The most clichéd of Mr. Porter tropes, if you will.

And this brings us at last, to Styleforum. On the hunt for a better fitting suit (yes, another one of those stories!), Google had led me to an Iris Tailor thread on SF. I lurked on CM and SWD for a year before finally setting up an account and posting. SW&D back then was quite a different place, much more hostile, heckling and intimidating. My first fit pic was a white Rick Owens aviator, black jeans and Balenciaga high-tops – what I gleaned was “in-line” with SWD sensibilities of the time. I also spent nearly half a year wearing a white t-shirt, ball-crushing APC petit-standards, bomber jackets and white sneakers.

The most clichéd of SW&D tropes, if you will.

I never truly “found” my style until I stumbled across Engineered Garments though; that was for me, when everything clicked. The whimsical florals, irresistible patchwork prints, and laid-back, rough-around-the-edges feel encapsulated everything I liked and wanted in clothes. Okinawan taxi-driver, I remember, was how I wanted to describe my look.

EG led to quirkier brands like Needles and Kapital, and from there I have branched out to more louche labels such as Dries van Noten and Junya. My current tastes and sensibilities have largely been informed from reading SF threads (with @Parker and @Conceptual 4est being my greatest inspirations), Japanese mags, look-books and selected runway shows. I still gravitate towards lurid prints and florals and distressed denim, as you can tell from my photos, but I do think they are in slightly better taste now.

Clothing to me is a fun, easy form of personal expression and an outlet for some creativity. Most days the weather here only permits a blazer, t-shirt or shirt and pants of some sort, so I try my best to have some fun with it. And there you go! Thanks for reading.

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You can follow Penanceroyaltea on Instagram.

Outfit Inspiration from Mossrockss

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One of the aspects of @mossrockss’ outfit photos that I most appreciate is how comfortable he looks in everything he’s wearing. Of course, he could be fooling me by just being very good at standing in front of a camera, but I’ll choose instead to trust in the truth of the images. I’m not entirely sure how he’d describe his own style, but in my eyes it’s a mix of Ivy and some relaxed Italian basics, a combination favored by well-dressed men and instagram stars worldwide.

There are two things he does particularly well. The first, as he himself noted, is pairing blazers with jeans, an example of which you can see here. The second is getting a lot of use out of the pieces he owns. That means that most of the items in his wardrobe are versatile, and easy to mix and match. For example, polos and popovers have been showing up under jackets more and more regularly in Styleforum’s WAYWT threads these days, and for good reason. They look nice on their own, and they add a welcome panache when worn with a sport coat. Especially when they have buttoned cuffs, they can be worn much like any other shirt, or rolled up when your jacket comes off, whether you’re wearing jeans or trousers.

Denim doesn’t need any introduction in terms of its versatility, but lately I’ve been particularly drawn to this pair of Orslow ‘Ivy Fit’ jeans, which have a relaxed fit that’s still flattering, as well as an entirely acceptable factory wash. Of course, you don’t have to wear them with a brown blazer – navy and green will work just as well.

Finally, it’s @mossrockss’ opinion that canoe mocs go with everything, and while that’s probably not true for me, or necessarily for you, dear reader, I felt I had to include them here. The whole look is a little bit more American than Italian,but I think it’s important to note that Mr. Moss never looks, well, boring – rather, he looks put together in a way that ensures he’ll be well-dressed whether he’s sitting on the porch of a colonial-style house in Massachusetts or in the garden of a Tuscan villa.


5 Tips to Make Your Clothes Last Longer

We all know that you can build a long-lasting wardrobe by buying clothes that are good quality and are meant to last more than a few seasons in style. To truly ensure that your clothes last as long as you’d like to wear them, you need to take proper care of them. Here are 5 tips to make your clothes last longer.

  1. Spot clean your clothes

I know that many people tend to throw their clothes into the laundry bin quite easily and often –whether because they think everything should be washed after 1-2 uses, or because they don’t want to put the garment back in the closet with other clean clothes. Obviously some items need to be washed immediately after the first use, like underwear and activewear, but most clothes can be worn multiple times with just a little effort.

It’s easier to just throw a shirt in the washing machine rather than take the time to spot clean even a tiny little food stain. However, washing your clothes is stressful for the garment for a number of reasons: the fabric wears down, the stitches suffer, the shape can be compromised, etc.

Make an effort to spot clean whenever you can, in order to spare your clothes from unnecessary washes. This is valid also for stains in the back of the neck, which are oftentimes the reason why we feel the need to wash a shirt: buy a natural sponge (those fluffy, yellow sponges that dry up when they’re dry), soak it in tepid water, add a drop of detergent, and brush it gently over the stained area. Rinse off with cold water and repeat if necessary. Armpit stains – another curse for our precious garments – can be easily avoided by buying a deodorant without aluminum (this is the best on the market according to my experience).


  1. Aerate your clothes

Another way to save your clothes from a trip to the washing machine is to let them aerate immediately after you remove them in order to get rid of any trace of smell. Leaving your clothes hanging will encourage the air to circulate through the fibers, and it will most likely get rid of most smells, including sweat. If you enjoy the smell of fresh laundry every time you wear something, you can put some water in a spray bottle along with 4-5 drops of essential lavender oil or 8-10 drops of orange blossom water, and spray down the clothes while they hang. If your shirts are not completely soaked in sweat, you will probably be able to do this trick at least a couple of times before inevitably sending them to their washing destination.

For jeans and sneakers, as odd as it may sound, putting them in the freezer is an excellent option to avoid throwing them in the washer, as the cold kills the bacteria responsible for the smell. Just make sure to seal everything in a plastic bag if you don’t want your next steak to smell like the gym’s locker room.


  1. Avoid machine washing

Again, it is way easier to throw everything in the washing machine and come back an hour later to freshly laundered clothes. However, machine wash can be quite stressful for garments, even if you use cold or lukewarm water. Natural fibers don’t like being tumbled around, especially if other items in the machine have stiff, pointy, and hard parts like buttons, zippers, and chains that can potentially damage them. Additionally, elastane fibers suffer from heat, and after repeated exposure they eventually lose their elasticity and alter the shape of the clothes. Avoid machine-washing at least for your favorite items and for those with natural fibers, and prefer a simple soak in lukewarm water. Trust me, most items do not need energetic washing and tumbling to get back to a neat state, and water and a tiny bit of detergent will do the trick.


  1. Store seasonal items in fabric garment bags

Many people use plastic bags when it comes to storing clothes and making space for seasonal items. While this protects them against insects and moths, you have to consider that humidity is just as harmful for textiles, and plastic bags generate of lot of it – even in the driest environment.

The Hanger Project offers a variety of garment bags made of cotton twill; they’re affordable, breathable, and reusable, and they’ll protect your suits and coats until the time to use them again comes.


  1. Do not dry your clothes in the dryer

I first encountered a dryer 5 years ago, during my first visit to the States. As an Italian who used to hangs her clothes on the balcony to let them dry, I had no idea such thing as a dryer even existed, until my then-boyfriend-now-husband threw my favorite pair of jeans inside his, and returned them to me two sizes smaller. Since then, I refuse to use the dryer for anything that I care about. I am fine with underwear, t-shirts, pajamas, and everything that is not meant to last a lifetime, but I hang all my precious textile belongings in the bathroom (sadly, in the US I don’t have a balcony to hang my clothes en plein air).

I’ve noticed that the few times I washed and dried my pants, they shrunk to a size smaller, only to loosen to a bigger size the first time I wore them, leaving me with no other choice but to throw them back in the dryer to shrink them again. This happens especially to clothes that have a percentage of elastane in the fibers, as elastane doesn’t react well to heat, and eventually it loses its properties.


This is everything! I hope these tips will be useful to some of you, and that they’ll extend the lifespan of your clothes so that you can enjoy them for years to come.

By the way, let me tell you that you guys in America are really missing out not drying your clothes outside, as there is almost no feeling more beautiful than wearing something that has been soaked up in the sunshine.

Arianna Reggio

Pictures from the Styleforum Toronto Meetup

Ken Jim (@suitforcourt) and I (@casadisartoria) were honored to host a special event on Thursday, April 27th at Spier and Mackay in Toronto. The event was the culmination of our efforts to bring together the community we interact with on a daily basis in the ultimate Toronto thread on Styleforum, and I’m happy to have the chance to share some pictures from the Styleforum Toronto meetup. 

Ken was looking for someone to help plan a local meet-up and I heeded the call. Toronto’s menswear scene is vibrant and growing rapidly, but there just aren’t enough communal events in a given year to bring people together. This was our chance to get folks to come out and share their passion for menswear and lifestyle, classic or otherwise – and to showcase their penchant for style!

Spier and Mackay, a Styleforum regular and an Affiliate Vendor, graciously accepted our request to host the event. The turnout was great, albeit during an evening downpour, and everyone got a chance to put some SF handles to faces.

Although a small speck among the sartorial destinations of the world, many talented artisans and craftsmen call Toronto home. The intention of this event was to also introduce local SF members to these talented artists, and perhaps consider commissioning future pieces from them. Many travel long distances or wait for local trunk shows, which may not always be practical. If you’d like to learn more, Pedro Mendes of The Hogtown Rake has really dug deep to uncover local talents and feature them on his blog.

I’m thankful to everyone who attended and made it such a memorable evening. I will be taking the lead (along with Ken I hope) in planning similar events down the road to really bring the community together, and to introduce live demos by local artisans and craftsmen showcasing their skills.

Lastly, thanks to Spier and Mackay for hosting us. Here are some intimate moments captured from the evening.


Words and photos: Hamza Khan

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Your Guide to Neapolitan Jacket Characteristics

The Internet has played a crucial role in introducing menswear aficionados to the visual nuances that permeate tailoring traditions – whether they come from the good old UK or the sunny shores of Naples, and the Neapolitan jacket has undeniably grown in popularity for men who shop and appreciate classic menswear. The following is a guide to Neapolitan jacket characteristics – what differentiates them, and what makes them worth owning.

Neapolitan jackets offer comfort and lightness, and they are, de facto, the leisurewear of tailoring. If properly constructed and tailored, you should be able to perform any daily task while wearing a Neapolitan jacket – from riding a bicycle to harvesting tomatoes (tasks that you will witness with your own eyes if you take a walk in the southern Italian countryside).

As dress codes at workplaces become less and less rigid, following the 21st century tendency of upgrading leisure and casual clothing to “everyday” clothes, Neapolitan tailoring has found a niche in the market of people that appreciate fine tailoring but won’t give up comfort and a bit of edge in their style.

This is my humble contribution to explain to the many, English-speaking fans of Neapolitan tailoring the beauty behind her majesty the Neapolitan Jacket, so grab your glass of Aglianico now, and keep reading.

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The Shoulders

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Spalla con rollino VS spalla a camicia – Lanieri

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Manica a mappina – Sartoria Formosa

Traditionally, the Neapolitan jacket has no shoulder padding. While it certainly helps make the figure appear broader in the upper part, shoulder padding restricts movement, and if you are a Neapolitan gentleman who is used to gesticulating a lot, that is definitely a deal breaker.

On account of these considerations, Neapolitan tailors removed the shoulder padding from their jackets altogether. In order to facilitate freedom of movement, the Neapolitan shoulder on informal jackets is sewn like a shirt sleeve (“spalla a camicia”) and it follows the natural curve of the human body rather than give it shape. This type of sleeve is cut about 10 cm larger than the armhole, and it can be finished with the “repecchia” – that visually interesting shirring the tailor creates with the extra fabric. This little flair, which supposedly allows for even more freedom of movement, is known as “manica a mappina”, and it gives the jacket a beautiful “rugged” appearance (“mappina” is a Neapolitan word for rag).

For formal occasions, the Neapolitan shoulder features a “rollino” – a little roll of padding that raises the sleevehead to drape more cleanly.


The Sleeves

The Neapolitan sleeve is usually shorter than that found on other jackets, as Neapolitans love their shirt cuffs to peek right above their wrists, especially when adorned with elegant cufflinks. The sleeves are cut closer to the arms, in order to avoid extra fabric hanging when these are raised (again, you’ve got to admire that talent for speaking with their hands).


The Pockets

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Rounded patch pocket with handmade double stitching [Photo: Nicola Radano for Orazio Luciano]

In line with the sinuous shape and lines of the Neapolitan tailoring, the pockets of a Neapolitan jackets are usually curved and applied as patches; the breast pocket is called “a barchetta”, which literally means “little boat”, due to the higher top corner of the pocket, which, along with the rounded bottom, gives it the shape of a stylized boat. The side pockets are equally curved, and their shape recalls that of a pot – hence the name “a pignata”.

Neither of these features have any practical functionality, but they are particular to Neapolitan tailoring and they contribute to the sophisticated yet relaxed look of a jacket made in Naples. As an ultimate touch of elegance, double hand finished stitching runs throughout the sides of the patch pockets – a recurring feature in informal Neapolitan tailoring.


The Lining

Just like shoulder padding, lining is considered an unnecessary burden and the Neapolitan tailors keep it as minimal as possible. Usually, the jacket is unlined or only half lined, in order to provide lightness; even the sleeves are completely unlined, as they’re meant to fit like a second skin. Additionally, the lining is often left open (“volante,” literally “flying”) so that we can admire the fine details and construction of the jacket.


The Lapels

Neapolitan jackets are famous for their wide lapels, which oftentimes are peaked (“a punta”) for double-breasted jackets, formal jackets, and coats.

The “risvolto dentellato” (the “classic” style of lapels – not peaked) are notoriously wider in Neapolitan jackets: they can be as wide as 4 inches, compared to the 3 inches of a regular lapel width).

Just as is the case for the pockets, the Neapolitan lapel features double stitching running along the sides – a stunning detail that’s peculiar of a Neapolitan creation – although reserved for the less formal pieces.

The “scollo a martiello” (literally “hammer neck”) is the opening of the jacket over the shirt, which in Neapolitan tailoring is perfectly parallel to the lapels.

The cran (but you can call it sgarzillo if you want to give your tailor a good laugh) is the space that separates the lapel and the neck, and it is usually higher in Neapolitan tailoring to create the illusion of a more slender figure.


The Body

You might have noticed that Neapolitan jackets tend to be shorter in the back; in Neapolitan dialect, they say the jacket “zompa arrèto,” which roughly translate as “it jumps in the back”. This characteristic allows for the jacket to “slide” gracefully along the body.

The vents on the sides are notoriously quite deep in Neapolitan jackets – up to 12 inches.

The darts (“pences” or “riprese”) in the front go all the way down, to help the fabric follow the shape of the body and create elegant quarters.


Buttons and Buttonholes

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Overlapping working buttons – Sartoria Formosa

Perhaps the most infamous characteristic of the Neapolitan jacket is the three-roll-two construction (“tre bottoni stirato a due”); the Italian translation makes it clear that the lapel that hides the third button is actually ironed by the tailor, who gives it a roll that elegantly folds over the button. The reason of this choice is – you might have guessed it – the extra freedom of movement provided by a longer opening in the front.

The buttonhole on the lapel is called “occhiello” in Italian, and it means “little eye” for its elongated almond shape. There isn’t really a tradition for a specific type of buttonhole in Naples, but we should note a tendency of Neapolitan tailors to prefer slightly shorter and thicker buttonholes that resemble those of a shirt, while “regular” buttonholes of English tradition are more elongated and slender. Some tailors add a little teardrop shape at the end of the buttonhole, but that’s an aesthetic choice that does not refer to a particular tradition.

For what concerns the buttons on the sleeves, they are always working buttons, and they are always overlapping, as if they were kissing each other.


If you ever find yourself strolling by the street of Naples, please do consider investing in a bespoke piece from a Neapolitan tailor. They represent a milestone of cultural heritage and tradition, and we owe them a great deal in terms of style and lifestyle. Additionally, having a suit made by a Neapolitan tailor is an experience that goes beyond the mere object that’s handed to you at the end of the process; it is a ritual. And, like every ritual, it involves libations, which in Naples can’t be anything other than caffè. When you’ll walk in the tailor’s atelier, you’ll be welcomed by a tiny cup of black, scorching coffee, and delicious Neapolitan pastries.

Don’t be surprised when you’ll see the workers take just one sip of coffee as you drink all of yours: they greet every customer with a cup of espresso, and while they won’t let any of them enjoy it solitarily, they simply can’t handle that much caffeine in a single day.

Arianna Reggio

neapolitan jacket characteristics styleforum neapolitan jacket styleforum neapolitan jacket details styleforum

Photo: Sartoria Dalcuore


Bibliography: 

L’eleganza dello Stile – Duecent’anni di vestir maschile – Vittoria de Buzzacarini, ed. Lupetti.

Note di Stile – Sergio Cairati, 2016, sold by Amazon digital services.

Photo credits:

The jacket used as a model is by Sartoria Formosa for No Man Walks Alone and can be purchased here.

Sartoria Dalcuore

NicolaRadano.com

Lanieri

Member Focus: Leanderthal

This week, we feature another relative newcomer to Styleforum: Leanderthal, who can be found most often in the Classic Menswear WAYWT thread. In this installment, Leanderthal talks about inspiration, hobbies, and growing up – but more importantly, about why menswear is such an impactful part of his life.


I grew up in a small rural community in the central United States. I was raised in a log cabin, deep in the middle of the woods, and led a mostly simple and sheltered life. I first became enamored with men’s clothing after watching Fight Club for the first time. I became obsessed with Brad Pitt’s character, Tyler Durden, and I wanted whatever the look was that he possessed: his bad-ass attitude and his vintage red leather jacket. Mostly that jacket though. But other than hoarding GQ magazines, I mostly chalked my ambitions up to a pipe dream. It didn’t seem realistic to pursue them, largely due to my roots and my up-bringing. It didn’t fit into my life, and I had no idea how I would even get involved in something like that anyway.

So instead, when I was of age, I enlisted in the United States military and eventually forgot about whatever it was that I thought I wanted to do in menswear…until about two years ago. Fast forward a decade. I found myself still serving, and while I was proud of what I had achieved, I hated the work that I did. I had become addicted to alcohol, and it seemed like my life was falling apart all around me. I was swinging at air, trying to keep my head afloat. It finally dawned on me that I had to stop drinking, and that I had to get my life in order, so in 2015 I admitted myself to treatment. I got sober, and I’ve stayed sober thankfully. But I found myself yearning for something; something that I didn’t have, but I didn’t know what it was. I had devoted most of my previous time to drinking and work, and I realized that I had no hobbies, and very few friends. I needed to find something for myself. I needed something that made me feel like I had a purpose, to fill the void I had dug myself into.

Then, one day, I was rummaging through my closet trying to find something appropriate to wear to church. In all of my drunken stupor, my wardrobe had fallen by the wayside, and I really didn’t have much to choose from. I was complaining to myself because apart from a few boots and tennis shoes, I really didn’t have any footwear other than a pair of black, square-toed derbies, which I hated. I decided that I needed to go shoe shopping. So, like any wise person, I turned to the internet to begin my search! Almost immediately I was overwhelmed with endless amounts of brands, opinions, and options. I had no idea what to look for or where to start. So I just started to read everything. I read all day that day at work about everything shoe-related that I could find. And I enjoyed it. I loved it! All those little dreams and fantasies that I had when I was a young adolescent started to resurface, and for the first time since I could remember, I became excited.

I decided that I wouldn’t buy a new pair of shoes, but that I would instead begin to build a wardrobe. A wardrobe that I wanted. I discovered websites like Dappered.com and Styleforum. I started watching how guys were dressing, and noted what I liked. At first I thought that I should build a formidable wardrobe of modest staple items. Things like a charcoal suit and cap toed shoes. But before I could even make a purchase, I started to become bored with the idea. I really didn’t need a charcoal suit. I worked a uniformed job, and apart from an occasional wedding or funeral, I had nowhere to wear a suit to.

I wanted to dress like the guys I was seeing on threads and in magazines. I wanted to wear what I wanted to wear, how I imagined it. I wanted to dress how I was feeling. I wanted to wear colors, and textures, and unique pieces. So, that’s what I started to do. It took me awhile to come out of my shell. I was scared of what people on the internet would think if I posted a picture of something I was wearing and they didn’t like it. It meant putting myself out there. I really didn’t know what I was doing. I was just trying new things every time, things that I liked. And I still am. What has changed is my confidence.

I still consider myself just a novice menswear enthusiast. Every day I am trying something new and experimenting. If I see something I like or that inspires me, I try it. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t. I get critiqued, and I get complimented. But it really doesn’t matter to me either way. I am doing something that I take great pleasure in and that makes me happy. And every day and every ensemble is new and fun. Even if I don’t get it right! It’s always an experience that I love. My confidence has sky-rocketed since I started dressing how I like and how I see myself dressing.

Working a uniformed job gives me the freedom to dress as I please when I am not at my place of work, something I find very unique and that I am grateful for. Menswear has also filled that void that I once had in my life – that void that I used to fill with alcohol and depression. It has kept me alive, in a sense. Because of everything that has happened in my life in two short years, I have decided that it is fitting for me to change my choice of career. At the end of this year I will be discharging from the service, at which point I will go on to finish my bachelors in Fashion Design and Merchandising and begin my MBA. This is a whole new world for me, and I am ecstatic to be stepping into it.


You can follow @Leanderthal on Instagram @ollisleander

What to Wear to a Beach Wedding

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The chances of you being asked to wear a suit to a beach wedding are, I admit, slim. However, beach weddings do happen, and beyond that, you may find yourself in a setting – a vacation, a dinner at a seaside restaurant – that demands, or at least encourages, a suit on the beach. Of course, this advice will probably work for most informal, warm-weather weddings. Remember, though – always follow the dress code on the wedding invitation to the best of your abilities out of respect for the occasion.

Let’s say you do get invited to a beach wedding. First, the smart play is to not wear leather-soled shoes.  The problem is that leather shoes are not only hot, but that the salt in the sand (and the sand itself) is not exactly friendly to the longevity of your footwear. However, unless the wedding is actually in the surf zone, you’ll probably want shoes, because sweet mercy does the sand get hot. Unless you want to go barefoot and risk reenacting the end of Terminator 2, or you plan to wear flip flops or Tevas (or my favorite foam Birkenstocks), your best bet is probably a pair of espadrilles. They’re a bit more sand-and-salt capable, and they’re also more summer-friendly in general. The pair above is a rather stunning set of handmade Basque espadrilles from De Bonne Facture, which in this case acquire their gorgeous blue from Dyer’s Woad.

Similarly, I would advise against wearing your finest suit to a beach wedding. Not only is there a good chance that you’ll want to roll your trousers up and stand in the waves (which will inevitably splash you much further up the leg/body), but the sea breeze is equally full of salt and sand, which, you know, abrades things. Of course, I’m always a proponent of wearing the clothing you have, but a beach wedding is an opportunity to branch out into something new, by which I mean it’s a good excuse to buy a linen suit. Whether or not SuitSupply is to your taste, they do offer very good value, and this patch pocket number is perfect for post-nuptial daquiris. The relatively low buy-in means you don’t have to worry about spilling slushy umbrella drinks on it, and you can romp in the sand with impunity.

Finally, keep things light in color. Not only will you probably appreciate the relief from the heat, but light colors just look nice when they’re sun-washed. I can’t imagine wearing anything but a linen or cotton-linen shirt on the beach, and while a white linen square is appropriate for any wedding, this beautiful abstract floral print from Vanda Fine Clothing deserves to be seen.

And that’s it. Or rather, almost. Because you’re definitely going to want two more things: the first is proper eyewear, which means (ideally polarized) sunglasses, because if someone asks you to not wear sunglasses at their beach wedding they’re probably not your friend, and staring a the glare off the waves for an hour is liable to blind you. Second, don’t forget your sunscreen.

Oh, and if the happy couple suggests, as I once witnessed from a distance, that they make their way down the sand-aisle to the dulcet tones of Lil Jon’s Turn Down For What, consider steering them in a different direction.