Our Best End of Season Sales Picks

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It’s your last chance to snag some great deals on winter collections before spring clothes make their way into your favorite shops. Here are some of our best end of season sales picks, great for any wardrobe.

Outerwear

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum stutterheim

 Stutterheim Car Coat – 95GBP at END.

 

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

CM: Camoshita Houndstooth Balmacaan – 711$ at No Man Walks Alone

Knitwear

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

North Sea Clothing Service Shawl Collar – 85GBP

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

John Laing Cashmere Rollneck – 275$ at Hanger Project

Shirts

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Haversack long popover – 115$ at Gentry with code HALFOFF

 

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Luciano Barbera Seafoam stripe – 197$ at Lawrence Covell

Denim and Trousers

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Snow Peak Okayama OX Pants – 155$ at Standard and Strange

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Hiltl for H.Stockton thin-wale corduroy pants in chocolate – 183$ at H.Stockton

Shoes

SW&D:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Nike Flyknit SE – 86$ at Oki-Ni

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Carmina Tanker Boot in brown scotchgrain – 475$ at Gentlemen’s Footwear

Accessories

SW&D

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Dries van Noten leather portfolio – 376$ at LOIT

CM:

Best End of Season Sales styleforum

Begg Kishorn cashmere scarf – 340$ at Unionmade

See something you like? If you’re on the hunt for more great end-of-season sales and deals, make sure you’re subscribed to the Styleforum Offical Sales Alert Thread, where we share all the sales, coupon codes, and deals from the best vendors in the world of menswear. You won’t find a better place to stay up-to-date on staying stylish. 

The 3 Wildest Brands at Pitti Uomo 91

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In addition to some of the best classic menswear brands, the best accessories, and the all-around best brands, period, Pitti plays host to some crazy and crazily impressive work. Here are three of the wildest brands at Pitti Uomo 91, brought to you by the discerning eye of Arianna Reggio.

OLD RANDA

One of the makers that impressed me the most at Pitti was Old Randa. Andrea, the creative mind behind the brand, caught my eye with his eclectic style. With his thin figure, the arms covered in tattoos, and the slim, straight moustache, he made me think that, if Baudelaire had been alive in 2017, that’s exactly what he would look like.

Since I am an incredibly frivolous person and I tend to dedicate attention to people with charm, I immediately approached Andrea to find out if his creations were as compelling as his style.

This is how I got swallowed up in a spiral of art, history, and tradition that almost left me overwhelmed as if I were drunk.

Andrea is a patina master, which means that he specializes in the art of dyeing leather. Because of his strong personality and his personal background (he worked in theater before dedicating his time to the Old Randa project) his creations are rather unique. Think Bontoni shoes tripping on acid.

Bright colors, such as absinthe green, bright purple, and mustard yellow, are combined using no apparent logic, and they make the shoes look like the skin of exotic, venomous animals.

I pointed at a pair of brogues that looked as if they were coated in the red marble adorning the Medici chapel in Florence.

“Ah, those!” said Andrea with a smile. “I dye them using wine must.”

As it always happens when I hear the word “wine,” I pricked up my ears.

“I retrieved an ancient recipe for making wine in the Ancient Rome. I dip the shoes in the must using an amphorae until they’re almost completely black, and then I polish away the excess until beauty is revealed.”

Then he flipped the shoes to expose the sole, and I was, if possible, even more blown away. On the leather sole of the shoe was impressed the strange figure of an animal; Andrea explained that he has always been fascinated by the drawings of ancient European explorers, who, coming back from their adventures, would try to illustrate the exotic, unknown animals such as lions, peacocks, elephants, and crocodiles. Because these representations were solely based on the memory of the explorers, they were incredibly inaccurate, and looking at them today they seem the drawings of mythological creatures.

I collected Jasper, who didn’t get a single word of the conversation – which was in Italian – and I walked away asking myself if this encounter really happened or I was still getting over last night’s prosecco.  Or if this whole Pitti thing was a dream, and I had just woken up to find out I was at some batshit crazy contemporary art vernissage in Copenhagen.

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FRANCESCO MAGLIA

Francesco Maglia is a big, ruddy man that, if it wasn’t for his perfectly tailored clothes, could easily be mistaken for Santa Claus. I timidly peeked inside their booth attracted by the varicolored umbrellas sprouting from rudimental metal tins, and Francesco Maglia literally dragged me inside and introduced me to his little crew – which were all family members.

“Hello, my dear,” he solemnly said, “I am Francesco V, and this is Francesco VI, my son.”

“Oh.” That’s pretty much everything I managed to say, partly because I was trying to figure out if the guy was shitting me, and partly because my hand had started to go numb in his vise.

“So…what’s going on here? You guys make some pretty awesome umbrellas,” I said, deciding that adulation is always a safe option. Besides, their umbrellas really are quite amazing: they look sturdy and practical, but with a range of colors and shapes that denote careful research in aesthetics. I would say that they’re the type of umbrellas I wouldn’t mind using to beat up a mugger on the bus, only to clamorously open it in a dramatic gesture a minute later and walk away in style, chin to the sky.

“We, young lady,” said Francesco V in his deep, low voice, “We are some of the best umbrella makers in the world.”

I stared at him for a long moment, finding myself speechless again. He said that in such a calm, confident way that I believed him immediately. He proceeded without giving me the time to process the information.

“Everything we sell is exclusively made in our workshop. We are a five-generation umbrella makers and we still use the same methods and processes that Francesco I used when he opened the workshop. Each umbrella requires more than 70 steps to make.

“You like that?” he asked, noticing I was eyeing a beautiful umbrella in cobalt blue.

“It’s really nice,” I replied sincerely, “The wood seems quite solid!”

“It is. It’s a single piece of wood. A whole branch of walnut, actually.”

Francesco went on explaining how they only use the best wood branches to make their handles, and how laborious the process is.

“First, you have to select the branches. Then, you have to straighten them, and that requires a lot of time – up to 6 months – during which the maker steams the wood and softens it in order to bend it to the correct shape.”

I suddenly felt reverential respect for this man, who was clearly passionate about his profession and was taking the time to illustrate his art to me. It broke me a little when his face changed to a sadder expression as he told me that people don’t seem to care about quality anymore.

“People don’t understand that an umbrella like this is an heirloom piece that will last through more than one generation, because my umbrellas simply don’t break. My sister has had hers for over 30 years, and we just recently replaced the canopy: it looks like new again.

“The demand is so low that we had to come to terms with some of our offerings; for example, we are no longer able to offer silk as a choice.  Our fabric is now a blend of cotton, silk, and wool.”

His big smile came back as soon as I told him that I work for a menswear forum (it took a while before he understood what that was) where quality is not only appreciated, but also worshipped like a goddess, and I promised to introduce his brand to the community.

I walked away after one last, vigorous handshake that thankfully didn’t make my $3 Hello Kitty umbrella fall off my tote bag. That would have been embarrassing.

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ESSENZIALMENTE LAURA

Since both Jasper and I have the sense of direction of a blind mole in a maze, we found ourselves lost in the main pavilion more than once trying to find the shopping area, which was supposed to be a pretty big deal this year. During one of our aimless wanderings, we ended up in the area dedicated to maîtres parfumeurs, as in: the beauty section.

Honestly, I feel pretty at ease around beauty aisles, so I suggested going through them in hope to find the shops and maybe even a perfume to bring home as a souvenir.

“But…what does beauty have to do with Pitti Uomo?” objected Jasper.

Oh, God. Men. Always asking irrelevant questions.

“Aren’t you a big connoisseur of fragrances yourself?”

“Yes, but…is this a good use of our time?”

I stared at my colleague in dismay: he succeeded in the attempt of making me feel more guilty than my husband ever has.

“Fine. Let’s go this way, perhaps we will find the…”

“Ohh, look! Roses!” breathed Jasper, waltzing towards the stand of Essenzialmente Laura, which had rows upon rows of elegant perfume bottles protected by crystal cloches.

I followed him to the stand, where a woman was elegantly waving her hand, spraying perfume all around.

“This is Mystic Rose,” she said smiling at us. “It’s part of our collection dedicated to the Bible.

“Roses are a biblical symbol of wisdom and purity. The thorns represent the sins, and the Church itself is oftentimes represented with a rose. Do you like it?”

Jasper seemed pleased with the smell of Mystic Rose, so the woman showed us the rest of the Bible collection.

“This is Incense of the Churches of Rome,” she announced, spraying off the fragrance on a piece of paper and handing it to us.

“It smells…like a church,” I commented stupidly, but I did mean what I said. If you ever entered a big cathedral in Europe – whether it’s Notre Dame or St. Peter’s, you know what I’m referring to: that smell of melted wax, incense, and wood has probably been the same for centuries. It is actually not unpleasant: it instantly brought me back to my trip to Bruges, when I had one of the most intense sensorial experiences of my life. I was walking down the aisle of the enormous cathedral in the central square of the city, and someone started playing the harp in a little hidden chapel. If you have never heard the sound of a harp resonating through the marble walls of a church, let me tell you: it was the most poetical sound my ears have ever perceived, and even if I chased it desperately in hundreds of harp concerts after that day, I was never able to grasp that celestial melody again. It was one, ephemeral moment of pure beauty, and it’s lost forever.

That’s what I was thinking when I smelled Incense of the Churches of Rome: I felt grateful for the privilege of having shared the stage with Beauty one day many years ago, in a semi-desert church in Belgium inundated with the morning light.

Perhaps it’s not a perfume I would wear on a daily basis, but the melancholy those notes of incense instilled in me is more precious than the average “I’d have sex with myself” fragrance.

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So here we are! Hopefully you enjoyed reading about the more unconventional people and brands that populate Pitti Uomo. Watching the photos online and reading about it on fashion magazines and blogs doesn’t even begin to explain the variety of incredible personalities that you can encounter. If you take the time to talk to them, they’ll tell you stories – their stories – that will transcend the menswear field, and you’ll find yourself wondering if you really should be listening to these mad individuals rather than concentrating on the clothes and the products.

“Oh, but you can’t help that,” whispers a voice in my head: “We’re all mad here.”

The 2 Coolest Brands at Pitti Uomo 91

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This year, we went to Pitti with an open mind. New brands awaited. New collections! We saw much, and much that we saw was good. And as hard as it is to see thousands of vendors, let alone pick favorites from among them, we’ve narrowed our top picks down to just two brands – one streetwear, one classic menswear. Part of that is because in addition to looking great, being made to a high standard, and offering a compelling viewpoint in a saturated market, both of these brands have that something special – and by something special, we mean style.

Streetwear: De Bonne Facture

Although still a young brand, De Bonne Facture is no longer a newcomer. We visited their showroom last year, which you can read about here, and they’re now stocked in multiple countries, as well as across the US. Despite the modest growth (and despite LeBron apparently appearing at least once in the knitwear), De Bonne Facture remains married to two things: the first is Déborah’s (the designer) almost manic insistence on quality. I have to say, it’s almost distressing to examine a garment at Pitti and not see a single errant stitch or thread – but it speaks to the exacting standards to which the clothes are manufactured.

The second defining characteristic of De Bonne Facture is harder to quantify, and it’s also a big part of the reason we’ve selected it. Personally, I’m convinced it has something to do with Déborah herself. Arianna did mention her briefly, but she does have a strange magic about her. Part of me thinks that De Bonne Facture is so good primarily because Déborah wills it, in a Jedi kind of way – althou perhaps it’s as simple (and as socially complex) as having excellent taste. She’s unapologetic, and firmly herself, and the garments reflect both those traits. She also wears her own clothing most of the time, and tells me she’s frustrated when people ask if and when she’ll make a women’s collection. In her words, she already does – De Bonne Facture is not so much unisex in the way of early 00’s names like Rad Hourani, but rather almost sexless. The clothes are so successful simply as objects that they don’t require a clothes-hanger-thin model to show them off.

What’s certain is that Déborah has an eye for matching materials with garments. Everything feels right – all the pieces have an appropriate heft; you’re not thinking “If only” about any of the details. When you try on the coats, the pockets are wear they should be. The shoulders sit well. Similarly, the trousers are cut to go with shoes or sneakers. The accessories aren’t an afterthought so much as a well-considered finishing touch. Even the jeans, which in the past Déborah has told me they only made because “Everyone has to make a jean,” are dyed in natural indigo and cut with a slight carrot shape that fits perfectly with the silhouette echoed across the collection.

Speaking of the collection, there are a few new pieces that are absolute standouts. One is a robe coat done in a highly textured wool-blend, and as much as I’d love to take credit for inspiring said garment during our last visit, I admit that I’m not that influential. Either way, it’s beautiful, with a nice heft that makes it drape very nicely. The other piece is a suede varsity-style jacket lined in cream shearling which really has to be seen to be appreciated. Otherwise, you can expect high-quality knits (inspired by traditional shapes but well updated), comfortable trousers, and really (truly) nice shirts and even henleys.

Ultimately, De Bonne Facture is special in part because of the restraint the garments show. As usual, the clothes retain their classic, muted colors. Navy and camel have been joined by a light clay color that lends itself particularly well to outerwear. Everything is nicely textured without being overwrought, and the details that are included (such as a special loop, taken from an old military coat, that keeps the belt on the new robe coat in place) don’t feel extraneous or intrusive. They are, like Déborah herself, uncompromising, and I can’t wait to see how the brand grows.

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Classic Menswear: Camoshita

Camoshita is, by this point, a household name on Styleforum. As is Yasuto Kamoshita, who – I swear – is, every single day, the best-dressed man at Pitti Uomo. The guy is a legend – there are plenty of men at Pitti Uomo who I would describe as “well-dressed,” but very few who are “elegant.” Yasuto Kamoshita is the latter.

So are his clothes. Camoshita, despite being something of a love letter to – simultaneously – Ivy style and the golden age of Hollywood, possesses an innate sense of playfulness that’s very modern. It’s tailored clothing that’s relaxed, not just in silhouette – Camoshita regularly plays with loose, comfortable shapes – but in style. For example, a knit wool hoody worn under a plaid field jacket and over a band-collar shirt looks perfectly at home next to a double-breasted suit.

I always look forward to seeing the Camoshita booth. And it’s not just because the clothes are nice, but that the experience of seeing them is so well thought out. Many brands at Pitti only have the space or inclination to present a rack of clothing for you to sift through. Camoshita, by contrast, is overrun with lovingly-styled displays of the clothing. I’m not even really a #menswear guy, and it’s menswear heaven. It was one of two brands – the other being Snow Peak – where Arianna was compelled to mention that we didn’t need a picture of every detail on every garment, and could we please go somewhere else now.

Unfortunately, the light inside the booth is still not the greatest for pictures, but we’ve tried to snap a few for you (by we, I mean Arianna), and perhaps you can at the very least get a sense of the silhouette – a loose, almost egg shape on top – primarily through the slightly oversized outerwear, and a slim but relaxed trouser on the bottom made up the bulk of the offerings. In particular, I appreciate that there’s no single decade that Camoshita presents, in the way that other brands have collections devoted to 90’s style, or 50’s-style suiting, or that sort of thing. Although you can look at the collection and see some reference points – is that Dick Tracy over there? – nothing is even remotely costumey, and everything has been elevated with pleasantly modern fits and finishes.

Again, it’s the ineffable that pushed Camoshita into our top pick. The way it all works seamlessly together, the way the fabrics and cuts are considered, even down to the way it’s styled – all in all, Camoshita is a collection in the truest (fashion) sense of the word. It stands alone, reliant only on itself and some good ol’ romance, and it sure as hell impresses.

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Despite being, in many respects, drastically different, both Camoshita and De Bonne Facture share the same sense of being much more than the sum of their parts. That said, they’re also similar in that each part is beautiful in and of itself. They ooze style – not just in the way they look, but the way they feel and what they stand for. For now, feel free to tell us which of the two brands you’d rather wear every day – and if you visited Pitti, what you thought the standouts were.

The Best Accessories at Pitti Uomo 91

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The Best Accessories Brands at Pitti Uomo

1. Ana Lemata

Ana Lemata is less a milliner than a textile artist who happens to make hats – and “passionate” doesn’t begin to describe her approach to her craft. Her hats are by turns whimsical, elegant, and romantic, ranging from traditional designs to hats that are barely recognizable as hats until they’re worn.

Ana was trained by the former milliner to Queen Mother Elizabeth of England, though she also carries a Ph.D in art history. Both skill and knowledge are on display in all her wares, and one gets the feeling that her hats wouldn’t be out of place in the Guggenheim Bilbao. But don’t let the incredible artistry fool you – these hats, made of materials such as beaver felt, vicuna, and straw – are made to last as long as the wearer, with proper care. And, while there are a host of ready-made options available upon inquiry, Ana relishes the opportunity to make bespoke hats for discerning clients.

If you’re in the market for something hand-made, unique, and sure to bring you years of happiness, you should act soon – currently, Ana’s prices are almost criminally low considering the materials used and the amount of work that goes into each piece.

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2. PB 0110

One of the most interesting pieces we saw at Pitti was this undyed leather backpack by PB 0110. This is a German brand that manufactures primarily sleek, modern leather accessories; very much in the vein of Scandinavian design but with a slightly more streetwear bent to them. What that means is that instead of rigid perfection you get a product with a bit more personality than the stereotypically featureless accessories people still tend to associate with ubiquitous minimalism.

Like most of the companies that show at Pitti, PB 0110 is eager to tout the lasting quality of its products. Normally, I’m wary of these claims, but pictures of well-used leather bags suggest that perhaps there’s more than marketing spin to the statements.

Though the articles are available in a range of colors and styles, the undyed leathers are probably the stand-out. Perfect for lugging around your rolls of dead-stock denim and small-batch-roasted coffee beans.

3. The Bespoke Dudes Eyewear

If you spend any time involved in the #menswear community online, you’ve probably heard of The Bespoke Dudes – or at least of the founder, Fabio Attanasio, who’s a veritable Instagram celebrity. The eyewear is based on classic – mostly 50’s and 60’s – styles, but updated for a more modern look. Every pair, whether wire or acetate, is manufactured and hand-finished in Italy, and if nothing else it’s a great alternative to the Luxottica behemoth. Of course, you’ll have to make sure the shapes and widths work for your face, but the details, lenses, and finishes may just pull you away from that free pair of sunnies you keep in your car’s cupholder.

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4. La Portegna

We’ve been singing the praises of La Portegna since at least 2014, and nothing has changed our appreciation for these lightweight travel goods and accessories. While in years past the offerings were very voyage-focused, La Portegna has expanded somewhat to include a wider range of women’s goods, along with shoes and sneakers for both sexes. The latter being, as José told me, a natural extension of the brand, despite (his words) the ubiquity of minimal sneakers.

To me, the appeal of La Portegna is how good the products feel in the hand, and how comforting it is to bring them with you on a daily – or irregular – basis. The designs and leathers continue to be attractive to both the eye and the hand, and offer a relieving middle ground when one is faced on all sides by heavy leather weekenders and Nylon carryalls. And, to José’s credit, his (leather-soled) espadrilles are the only espadrilles I’ve ever considered wearing.

Oh, and if you’re looking for a backpack in La Portegna’s beautiful and long-wearing ‘Sol’ leather, the wait is over.

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(Disclosure: La Portegna provided Styleforum with sponsored goods for a different project in 2015)

5. Merola

Merola is an old standby of Italian glovemaking, and for good reason. Since 1885, they’ve managed not only to hang on to their manufacturing pedigree, but they’ve adapted their line to fit the needs (and hands) of everyone from Kate Winslet in Titanic to your average guy with a smartphone. Of particular note were the gloves lined with tie silk, which is a touch that I can see many Styleforum members finding attractive – and comfortable. The materials and linings remain sumptuous, the finishing top-notch, and the number of styles available mean it’s pretty likely that you’ll be able to find something to keep your hands both warm and stylish, whether you’re riding a vintage bicycle or just nonchalantly stuffing your gloves in the pocket of your overcoat.

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2016 Classic Menswear in Review

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Wow.  You all posted so many pictures in 2016.  Like, thousands.  Most of you, waaaay more than me.  As @Roycru stated: “Thanks awfully to all those who post pictures of themselves and who don’t get discouraged by the occasional bizarre comments.” Indeed, it takes persistence, a desire to improve, and perhaps a touch of narcissism self-awareness to continue to post, so kudos to all those who did.

So what exactly happened last year?  In short, the return to the Golden Age of Menswear, along with the looks and proportions that it espoused.  The three-piece is enjoying increased popularity, more turtlenecks are being worn with sportcoats, but I was particularly pleased to see something I haven’t seen for a long time: the double breasted suit.

In November and December alone, forum members wore so many double breasted suits that I lost count.  Probably close to a third of the pictures.  Granted, cooler temperatures do lend themselves to wrapping oneself in more fabric.  Still, it’s pretty noteworthy, in no small part due to the perception of the double breasted suit during the past quarter century.

It’s not that the style itself was ever un-stylish.  Like it’s single breasted brother, the whims of fashion have either swept it into the background or catapulted it into the zeitgeist.  I remember them as a boy, on Simon LeBon on MTV videos, and thinking, Man, that looks so unlike anything I’ve seen, and he is so cool, I want to look like that.  Because none of the grownups around me in 1982 had anything like that.  Which makes sense:  American Gigolo (1980) is often credited with reintroducing the style, but TV shows such as Miami Vice (1984-90) really gave the double breasted suit its first big US renaissance.  It all started off well; designers such as Ralph Lauren and Alan Flusser modeled their interpretations from the style’s last heyday of the 30’s and 40’s and gave its wearer a powerful, commanding silhouette with a unapologetic Anglo/American pedigree.  No wonder, then, the money-movers of Wall Street both gravitated towards and projected out that image, giving time-honored credibility to a slick ‘do and sly smile.  At the same time, Italian designers Giorgio Armani and Versace interpreted the double breasted suit with softer and lighter fabrics, little or no lining, and a looser fit.  This gave an otherwise business-y look softer contours and a relaxed air.  By the time Wall Street was released in 1988, department stores were selling completely through their stock of double breasted suits, until finally the New York Times proclaimed them cool again.  Which, of course, heralded its slide out of popularity.

Less than one year later the same newspaper ran an article on the three-button single breasted sack suit, quoting Harold Koda warning, “if (the style) takes, it will make existing styles look unstylish. Once fashion goes baggy, it’s hard to stay sleek without looking uptight.’’  Indeed, once that trend caught on in the early 90s, double breasted suits fell to the wayside (with the notable exception of David Letterman), and they were a forgotten anecdote of fashion history.  And while menswear magazine giant GQ has occasionally showcased double breasted suits with exemplary proportions, the anaemic lapels that have stubbornly clung to those breasts just made the suits look, well, infantile.  I like how old-school GQ Style Guy Glenn O’Brian put it, way back in 2000: 

“The thing with double-breasted, I believe, is that it’s for men, not boys. And fashion today is a bit on the boyish tip.”

Modern menswear is about to grow up, and that means the return of the double breasted suit.  I’m sure you’ll be seeing it more on the forums.  The Old Guard may pride itself on shirking trends, but let’s not lie: even if only slightly, most of us tow the line of fashion, even if we boast of its irrelevance on our personal wardrobe.  Even those who doggedly adhere to established rules of coat and tie still incorporate modern changes to avoid looking dated.  Of course, fashion cycles in and out, but I feel like the last 20 years of menswear articles throwing around the words “classic” and “timeless” were misguided at best, if not outright disingenuously aimed at fooling gullible men who didn’t know any better.  Seriously, you can get no more classic than old Hollywood, and it looks like it’s ready for a comeback. 

Godspeed, that.

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What to Wear With a Shearling Jacket

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what to wear with a shearling jacket styleforum

1. Aero Coastal Command shearling jacket

2. Rocky Mountain Featherbed liner jacket from Mr. Porter

3. Folk waffle-knit crew sweater from End

4. 4 Pocket pant from Evan Kinori

5. Goodyear-welted Julius boots in vintage leather from Peter Nappi

In my mind, there are very few things warmer than shearling. Yes, you could probably argue that one of those insulated suits made for climbing Everest is warmer than a shearling jacket, but you’re about as likely to own one of those as you are to wear it on any given day, even if you do own one. And, like most of your wardrobe, the continued popularity of the shearling bomber jacket is due to its presence in military uniform. Various military forces have adopted shearling at different points in history, but shearling is now perhaps most recognizable in bomber jacket form.

The most common models you’ll see are based on the US B3 and B6 jacket. These jackets were a very effective – but expensive – way for high-flying bomber pilots to stay warm, and were often accompanied by shearling overpants, gloves, and caps (the B6 being the lighter-weight, less bulky derivative for fighter pilots in smaller cockpits). Not only did they offer great insulation at freezing temperatures, but they would, in theory, keep the pilots alive were they shot down over open water. As rare as it is now to find someone wearing a full shearling suit, the jackets are still available in both vintage, repro, and updated form.

The one pictured here is not a USAAF jacket, but an R.A.F “Coastal Command” jacket, manufactured to original specifications by Aero Leathers. As you can see, the hood has been painted yellow – again, this was meant to serve as an indicator when searching for (hopefully) floating pilots. In addition, I think that the details visible on this later model – zipped cuffs, a belted waist – make it a touch more modern and, when worn outside the context of a war, rakish – than some of the American models.

Despite plenty of hi-tech advances in staying warm, sheepskin is still plenty effective (and popular), and you’re not limited to recognizably military-inspired models. They are, however, maybe the best for layering. Because when the temperature dips past freezing and it’s really, really cold out, you’re not going to wear just a shirt under your shearling jacket.

I’ve actually taken to wearing an Arcteryx Atom LT hoodie under a shearling (or coat) when it’s freezing which, admittedly, is not hugely fashionable. A better option is a quilted liner jacket like this one from Rocky Mountain Featherbed, especially since since it’s made of super-light and super-warm goose down. The combination of sheepskin and goose down is very, very warm, and if you add a sweater underneath you’ll be set even for nighttime. Uniqlo has a cheaper option, but you miss out on the feeling of wearing a cloud.

what to wear with a shearling jacket styleforum

My usual take on a two-piece Coastal Command outfit: shearling jacket from Cloak, insulated hoodie from Arcteryx, Evan Kinori 4 pocket twill pants, and Nonnative boots.

One thing to keep in mind when wearing a shearling jacket is that ultra-slim jeans don’t often look great due to the volume of the jacket (and the bulk of the layers beneath it), and trousers don’t really fit with such a utilitarian garment either. Most of the time I like looser denim of the ‘slim straight’ variety, which tend to be more in style now anyway, but when it’s freezing it’s nice to have a little extra room for insulation or even for a base layer (REI or even Costco have plenty – I like a wool blend). For example, this pair of four-pocket pants from Evan Kinori are even based on a USN overpant, which work particularly well if you’re after a fuller, more repro-inspired silhouette. I bought a pair last summer in indigo twill

Finally, my footwear barely changes no matter what the weather’s doing, so a good pair of leather boots is always nice to have on hand. These, from Peter Nappi fit the bill. We had the chance to see some of their wares in person at Pitti, and I think they’re very nice. I also like the way slightly more relaxed pants look with slim boots like this, especially since you can let the fabric break against the boot or roll them up with a thick cuff. It makes for an interesting look, I think. Of course, something like SF favorite Viberg would do great, as would a heavier engineer or moto boot.

Regardless, if you’ve spent any time on the forum you may have noted that I love to wear shearling jackets over a simple tee shirt. That said, it’s worth remembering that shearling (and, of course, wool) is one natural fiber that really can stand up to the worst that mother nature has to offer. This trinity  – shearling, wool, and down – works best when these individual powers are combined, like the Captain Planet of staying really, really warm. If you live anywhere with seasons, I’d wager you’ll get a lot of use out of all of the above.

Oh, and if you’re after a US Military jacket, Aero makes those too. I happen to think that a painted shearling hood would be a great thing to have on hand, though.

Three Great Classic Menswear Brands at Pitti 91

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While there are hundreds and hundreds of brands that show at Pitti Uomo, many of them deserving of your time and attention, it takes something special to stand out from the crowd. Here are three great classic menswear brands at Pitti 91, all of which we thought had that little extra.

1. Peter Nappi

I’ve been following Peter Nappi, off and on, for several years now – though this is the first time I’ve had a chance to see their wares in person. My interest has largely been devoted to their line of handsome work boots, which are about as streetwear-friendly as you can get. But this season, Peter Nappi has introdced a new line of beautifully-patinated shoes that, at least in the warm browns that were shown at Pitti, are perfect for less-formal tailored clothing, or even dressed-up casual wear. I was most impressed by the wholecuts, which I thought had not only a shape that would be conducive to a range of outfits, but a honey-gold warmth that I can see pairing very nicely with, say, sage-green trousers, as well as worn denim. If you’d rather wear something a little slicker with your jeans and jacket, perhaps a pair of suede zip-up harness boots is what you’re after. Those, I have to say, were gorgeous.

Peter Nappi is based in Nashville, but the entire line is made in Italy, and most of the products are Blake-stitched. However, there is a line of completely handmade Goodyear-welted workboots, should you want to branch out.

-Jasper

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2. Fioroni Cashmere 

Fioroni cashmere caught our eye at Pitti Uomo for the delicate nuances of their incredibly soft cashmere sweaters, but our interest deepened when we learned about Fioroni’s innovative techniques and philosophy. The brand stands against animal cruelty and uses only the finest Mongolian cashmere that is spun in Italy, while the leather is sourced exclusively from the food industry. Every sweater is finished by hand using pure cashmere thread.

The most interesting products we spotted were the Duvet line and the bio cashmere. After weaving, the Duvet garments are washed for an hour in water coming from the Lake Trasimeno, which is rich in iron and gives the cashmere an extra soft, compact, and virtually pill-less texture.

The Bio Cashmere is dyed using exclusively natural pigments; we spotted oak-dyed cashmere in the most beautiful taupe hue, and olive-dyed knits in a delicate pastel green. The colors of the Bio Cashmere line are pleasantly muted and, just like indigo-dyed garments, they take on character as they age and get washed.

-Arianna

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3. Massimo La Porta 

Massimo La Porta is a Neapolitan shirtmaker who learned the art of shirt making from his uncle Pino Borriello, one of the first shirtmaker in Naples in the 1940s. His goal is to provide a product that follows the steps of the traditional Neapolitan tailoring as well as contemporary style.

Each shirt goes through twelve hand-stitching steps: collar,  button holes, shoulders, and hips are hand-finished, and the Australian mother-of-pearl buttons are sewn by hand using a lily-stitch. The armholes are not sewn along with the hip seams; instead, they are hand-finished using a technique named “curl.”

Although there are many well-known Neapolitan shirtmakers, La Porta’s wares caught our eye due primarily to the range of fabrics on display. Particularly appealing to Jasper was (unsurprisingly) a medium-blue chambray shirt with exposed selvage detailing, though there were plenty of interesting patterns perfect for casual use alongside the more classic stripes and solids.

–Arianna

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How to Wear a Cape

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The first time I went to Pitti, which was only a few years ago now, one of the brands that most stuck out in my mind was Tabarrificio Veneto, a company that makes – among other things – gorgeous capes. I thought it was fantastic. And when Arianna and I returned to their booth again this season, I still thought it.

It’s interesting to see such garments alongside the trend-driven wares that many of the brands at Pitti are selling; even the most established companies change somewhat over the course of a year. Capes, however, have been basically they same thing since the first time shepherds pulled fabric ’round their shoulders. But, like any garment, they’ve come in and out of fashion, most recently experiencing a surge of popularity in the nineteenth century, before fading again into obscurity. Now, they’re largely seen as accessories for Vampire: The Masquerade cosplayers and halloween revelers.

As unfortunate as that is, it’s my hope that it will shortly change. Back in 2015, actor Antonio Banderas said he wanted to bring back capes when he enrolled at Central Saint Martins. Sadly, he’s made none so far, but even if Zorro’s failed us that doesn’t mean others aren’t up to the challenge. At Pitti 91, Spanish tailoring house Sastreria 91 showed off, in addition to some fascinating coats and jackets, some very fine capas. Theirs are less the cloaks of masked superheroes, and more the raiments of modern-day toreadors; Sastreria 91 favors bold colors rather than Poe-ish blacks.

There’s always been a contingent of cape-wearing men present as Pitti Uomo, and I’m not just counting the guys who drape their overcoats off their shoulders (which isn’t so much “affected” as it is “really handy,” because of how hot the damn pavilions are). Of course, most of these efforts – many of them nothing more than photo-bait – fall into the category of “No thanks,” but that doesn’t mean that there aren’t men who wear capes quite well.

One of those men is Styleforum’s @Butler, who told me that he never wears a coat anymore. “No need to get a fitted overcoat, no need for gloves – you just put it on,” he said. And then demonstrated. I felt immediately jealous, and beyond that, I couldn’t believe how natural it looked – and that was even before we’d gone to see Sastreria 91 and Tabarrificio Veneto.

That, we did the next day. First, we stopped at Sastreria 91, where in addition to capes Paul showed us some of his very well-cut coats and jackets. One of these pieces is a “modern cape,” a long jacket featuring two front panels that hang separately from the back of the garment, and which you can see both me and Paul wearing in the slideshow below.

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While I understand that these pieces probably won’t attract our more conservatively-minded members, I must say that the patterns were cut so comfortably, with such an impressive amount of movement granted by the non-traditional curved seams, that I was tempted to walk out of the booth wearing one. Of course, in addition to the above pieces, there are the capes. Here, you can see them in all their glory:

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Later in the day, it was Arianna who pointed out Tabarrificio Veneto. I’ve written about them before, and I think that this paragraph is still perhaps the most accurate way to describe what it’s like to put on a cape:

The look isn’t everything. No picture can fully communicate the magic of donning (yes, donning) a cape: one must grab it firmly but gently by the lapels, gracefully curl the spine, and then extend, swirling the cape about one’s shoulders in a motion that requires approximately twenty square feet of empty space if one doesn’t wish to endanger passersby. Once it’s on, you swing one side of the garment up over your opposite shoulder in a gesture so powerful it must be experienced to be understood. I did it one time and almost passed out. Muttering “Nemo me impune lacessitt” under your breath as you walk into the night gives +10 to vengeance.

You can click here to see what it looks like in slow motion.

Now, I would like to adjust that description slightly by saying that after seen more people wearing capes, I think they don’t need to be quite so dramatic. I’ll also say that it’s the cape-like garments with toggles and straps and what-have-you, the garments you see posing on the Pitti Wall, that are a bit more perilous than the un-altered originals. I’m not sure I’ve ever seen anyone wearing one of said capes and thought it looked good; although Tabarrificio Veneto has now split into two, and its sister brand focuses on producing solely those cape-inspired pieces of outerwear.

However, what you really want are the traditional Venetian capes -named tabarri– which look just as they did when they were used in the Middle Ages by knights and aristocrats. The Venetian cape has one single clasp that buttons on the neck – Tabarrificio Veneto uses a metal lion head, which is the symbol of the city of Venice – and the tabarro remains closed by throwing one side over the shoulder. It comes in two lengths: a longer model that goes down to the calves and takes 6 meters of fabric to create, and a shorter version that is ideal for riding horses (or bikes). The fabric is a thick, heavy wool that repair against the wind and is also entirely waterproof. The main characteristic of a tabarro is the live-cut of the wool, which is never hemmed. Otherwise, it is a simple cape.

The more rugged capes could easily be worn with brands such as Engineered Garments, The Soloist, or even Cabourn and the like, while working well with country-inspired tailoring. The dress capes require a sharper outfit, however, as @Butler demonstrated in a 3-piece suit from Savile Row. I can easily imagine wearing one to the ballet. If you live in Venice, so much the better.

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There are a handful of other companies making more modern capes, and one that may be of interest to you is Norwegian Rain, which produces this S-Cape in weatherproof fabric with a fur collar:

Norwegian Rain pitti uomo 91 how to wear a capeAs you can see, it’s not quite traditional. And, I have to say, I don’t love it the same way I love the pieces from the two brands mentioned above. While it may be very functional, it loses the charm of wearing something that is nothing but a cape.

Regardless of what type you choose to wear, I’ve observed enough cape-wearing over the course of the past few years that I think I can safely put together the following shortlist of tips for how to wear a cape:

  1. Own it.

That…really seems to be the only rule. A big part of nailing the look is not to feel affected. Don’t fidget with the collar, don’t constantly look at yourself in the mirror, don’t call attention to the fact that you’re most definitely not wearing a coat. If you’re wearing jeans and sneakers, maybe don’t wear a cape made of cashmere Loro Piana fabric. If you’re wearing a suit and tie, maybe don’t wear a shepherd’s cape. Otherwise, just put it on and go outside.

Now, I’ll be honest. It’s possibly you have to be a handsome older gentleman living in a European city for this not to look silly. Or at the very least, attending an evening affair. But I did think, while looking at the tabarri, that the short 15-18 version could be perfect for anyone who wants to ride a bike when the weather’s cooler.  Like me, say. Yes, you’d need to wear gloves, but you’d get to bike around with your cape streaming in the wind behind you. And that, frankly, sounds awesome.

Arianna Reggio contributed to this article.

Styleforum’s Pitti 91 Recap

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Pitti passes by so quickly. There is so much build up beforehand, and then… poof, it’s over. I’ve spent the last two months planning what to see, who to meet, etc., etc. Then the week comes and it all turns into a hazy whirlpool of cheek kisses, dinners, and nighttime events in lavish locations. Then, a few days later, I leave and feel like I didn’t really have time to actually speak to all the people I wanted to speak to, I didn’t see all the exhibitors I would have liked to see, and I didn’t have time to just stroll about and see the city-sized museum that is Florence. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not complaining – I just spent almost a week in one of the world’s most beautiful cities, discussing and looking at beautiful clothes, shoes and accessories. I guess it’s just impossible to squeeze everything you’d want to do into four days.

I was lucky enough to be traveling with Jussi Häkkinen, a new partner at E-F-V, and his lovely fiancée, Anu Ratulinen. This season my fiancée, Erica, couldn’t come because of work. She usually helps out with the photography when we’re there. Fortunately, Andreas (@Anden) was able to come this year and take pictures. And even though I missed having Erica with me, I really enjoyed hanging out with Andreas this week.

Anu had taken care of booking an apartment for us. I was expecting your average Air BNB experience, meaning a decent flat with a shower. What I had completely missed was that she had managed to book us a room in one of Florence’ oldest and most well known palazzos. Not only did the 7-meter ceiling have beautiful frescos, but the apartment was also overlooking Arno and Ponte Vecchio. We found out later that this palazzo was Hannibal Lecter’s Florence residence in the movie Hannibal.

After arriving pretty late the first night, I had to dump my luggage in the room quickly to join a dinner for “influencers” (I really can’t identify with that term), hosted by tie makers Loïc et Gil. The restaurant was very nice, and even though I arrived a few hours later than everyone else, they had only gotten halfway through the 10-or-so-course meal. The company was good and naturally we ended up at cafe Gilli in central Florence. Gilli’s is a beautiful old cafe, with some nice pastries and decent drinks. All of this is impossible to appreciate during Pitti though, since the place is brim full of Pitti visitors, and the staff is particularly rude. Tired after traveling and the big meal at the restaurant, I headed off to our apartment to get at least a few hours of rest before Day 1 of the fair.

Day 1

I woke up eerily early the day after. Couldn’t shower, since all the hot water was used up. A quick cold wash in the sink had to do the trick for day one. We got dressed, had a quick cup of coffee and headed off to meet some friends outside the fair.

Andreas and I had decided to meet up inside the fair before lunch. There were so many people to meet and greet outside of the main pavilion that we actually didn’t get inside before lunch. After some haggling, Andreas, myself, and a Swedish photographer friend named Milad managed to get our lunch passes, even though I had emailed ahead to make sure there would be no problems this time. “Oh well, it’s Italy” (a phrase I repeated to myself a couple of times this week). We arrived at the lunch buffet, met some Swedish friends, had some wine, and headed out again.

Once inside the fair halls, we walked around just looking into booths for a while. Of course we had a few must-sees (the usual suspects), but nothing scheduled. This was pretty much my philosophy for the week – trying to have as little as possible scheduled, to be able to actually experience the atmosphere and the visual impressions without repeatedly checking the clock. This made the entire week much more enjoyable, and actually fruitful.

We met Jake and Alex, formerly of the Armoury, in Orazio Luciano’s booth. They told us they are now launching their own store in London. Exciting news indeed for all Londoners.

Day 1 went by way too quick. Since we had planned to go to Plaza Uomo & Simon Crompton’s Independent Shops Symposium at Palazzo Budini Gattei, we didn’t really have time for dinner. Unfortunately, the location of the party, beautiful as it is, didn’t work perfectly with the symposium that was being held at a stage at the far end of a big hall. Standing close to the stage, you could hear what Patrik of Skoaktiebolaget, Mark of the Armoury and the other guest speakers were saying, but at the back of the room everything dissolved into mumbling. Partly because a lot of the guests didn’t really care about the shushings from the people who wanted to hear what was discussed onstage. Since we hadn’t had time for dinner, the drinks hit harder than they usually would have. Once it was time to get something to eat, Benedikt (@braddock) lead the way, and a nice little company of people (12 or so) headed off to a really nice place, centrally located, where I was seated next to my good friends, Norman Vilalta and Charley Marcuse (@mr.claymore). The meal was great, the company was even greater, and all of a sudden we found ourselves at Gilli’s again.

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Erik is co-founder of EFV Clothing. You can find him on Instagram at @ErikMannby. If you’re attending Pitti Uomo 91 this January, let us know in the comments below!

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Member Focus: Gerry Nelson

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Meet Gerry Nelson, a Styleforum member who routinely posts in both the Classic Menswear and Streetwear and Denim subfora. Gerry has a great eye for color, texture and fit, and in this week’s member focus he tells us about how he honed in on a style that’s versatile, eye-catching, and always well put-together.

My journey began half a lifetime ago in England. Up until then, I didn’t have much of an interest in menswear. Hanging out with a group of people who were into designer clothing got me interested in clothing by Giorgio Armani. This, in turn, gave me a love of interesting textures and soft tailoring…I then proceeded to gain a bunch of weight and consequently lost interest in menswear over the next two decades until I decided to get things back on track.

After getting back in shape around 2011- 2012, the first thing I did was to start looking out for resources on how to dress better which led me to StyleForum and Put This On. The latter has a wonderful list of items for an essential wardrobe. It was fantastic – there it was, all laid out for me in a list and all I had to do was to acquire the pieces, one by one. Of course, things are never that straightforward, but more on that later…

From Styleforum I got a love for English men’s shoes, combined with an itch to polish them to a high shine. The members were helpful but what really got me going was when a good friend of mine, Christian Kimber, sat me down and showed me how it was done. Of my most memorable moments was when I finally got it! I figured out that:

  1. Most men pay more attention to the clothes than the shoes
  2. If the clothes fit well, you didn’t necessarily need to spend a lot of money
  3. A nice, well-polished pair of shoes stands out for all the right reasons

So that’s where I started.

I, of course, took it further and decided I needed a mixture of styles to cover any occasion from tramping in the woods to a black tie dinner! So, I ended up with black, brown and burgundy oxfords, derbies, monkstraps, boots and loafers in shell, calf and suede. Most of these were bought second-hand, and naturally, mistakes were made along the way. Fortunately, I was able to resell the pairs that did not fit properly and ended up with a collection that I am extremely happy with (but there will always be another pair out there to tempt me!).

Similarly, with suits, I got the standards – a navy and a mid-grey single-breasted suit and then branched out into a lighter blue, a charcoal, a grey flannel, brown linen, a green Donegal tweed and finally, a dinner suit.

Regrets? I had a few – I bought a Chester Barrie suit off eBay because of the name and because it was made in Savile Row. I thought it was awesome but didn’t realise how out of date it looked – always ask yourself if you would buy something if there was no label. I’ve bought trousers based on the waist measurement and found that they fit more like skinny jeans or were way too baggy – pay attention to ALL the measurements. Think about where any potential purchases would fit in your wardrobe before you buy something. In some cases, I didn’t and things either had to be sold or donated (yes, I’m looking at YOU, seven-fold teal satin tie!).

I prefer textures to patterns and that’s how my Classic Menswear style developed.

There came a point, however, where I felt that I had a handle on the more formal side of things but had no idea how to dress outside of that. I wanted a style that incorporated classical elements but was something I would wear while going out on weekends, i.e. not a jacket and tie. This search eventually took me to Japanese workwear and the love of the looser, flowing fit. I still love textures and indigo-dyed sashiko and boro fabric have got my attention these days. I’m as likely to be at work in an untucked button-down collar shirt, fatigue pants and work jacket as I am in a suit, tie and pocket square. One of the great things about where I work is that there is no specific dress code.

I’ve built up a great wardrobe over time and it’s time once more to sift through and get rid of the pieces that no longer fit in with what I wear these days. It’s a good exercise when you feel you’ve accumulated too many clothes. There is no such thing as the perfect wardrobe but the best wardrobe for now is one that is constantly edited – with additions and removals – which keeps it exciting.

A great thing about Melbourne is that we get all four seasons and the weather doesn’t necessarily stick to a schedule – I’ve worn lightweight tweed on cold spring days and linen on warm autumn days. The colder weather also affords me the opportunity to layer my clothing and that opens up a lot of options in terms of colours, textures and accessories like scarves (cotton, wool-silk, lambswool and cashmere) and gloves (cashmere, calf leather and peccary). I often wake up excited about the sartorial possibilities the day promises.

It’s been a long process of experimentation that is still going on. Along the way, I’ve been influenced by many different people and made some great friends. The one thing they all have in common is that they primarily wear clothes that I would be very comfortable wearing, so it’s very easy to draw inspiration. Some of the people and brands I get my inspiration from:

For casualwear, I draw a lot of inspiration from Engineered Garments, Blue Blue Japan and Kapital for their workwear-inspired pieces, indigo dye and sashiko – what is there not to love?

Find your inspiration and I wish you all the very best on your journey. If you want to talk more about menswear and the journey, I would love to hear from you!