5 Stand-Out Takes on the White Court Shoe

The white court shoe has taken its place atop the throne of the sneaker world following the rise of the Stan Smith. The latter is now (still!) found on the feet of half the people at any trade show, with only mild competition from Adidas’ shell-toe and three stripe options. But if you’re looking for a simple, good-looking sneaker, there are many brands that offer pleasing design – and, let’s face it, a price that makes Common Projects Achilles look like a joke. Here are 5 white court shoes that you can wear all through the winter – and for a long time to come.


  1. Greats “Royale”

    Photo: Greats


    Luxury court shoes are nothing new, but we all know that Common Projects are no longer the must-have they once were. Greats’ take on the classic design is a little bulkier, a little cushier, and little less ubiquitous (and who doesn’t enjoy a bit of rarity with their sneakers?). The suede models are stand-outs, and will look great with worn-in raw denim or even casually-worn trousers.  And at 1/4 the price of CP’s, what’s not to like?119$, Greats.com


  2. Adidas Stan Smith Primeknit OG pk

    Photo: SSENSE

    What would a list of tennies be without at least one variation on the original? Adidas has updated its classic Stan Smith silhouette with a primeknit upper that offers breathable comfort and keeps you from looking like the rest of the fashion-obsessed sneakerheads out there. And since we’ve reached – and passed – peak Stan Smith saturation, a slight re-config means that you can wear these without feeling self-conscious. Although you can find Primeknit Stans at several retailers, this OG-pack version has a different knit and a slightly lower profile than the all-leather model, but pairs equally well with denim or slim black trousers (yeah, yeah – we see you, fashion week attendees).

    Best part? The added airflow means your feet will stink less.

    130$, ssense.com


  3. Common Projects Court Low
    Photo: Need Supply

    Photo: Need Supply


    Instead of going for the by now ubiquitous Achilles, spend those hard-earned dollars on the CP Court Low instead. We’re big on suede sneakers for a bit of added character, and this even-more-minimal take on the tennis shoe is perfect for fall. Stack your jeans on top of the low cuff, roll ’em up, or even wear a pair of (gasp!) shorts. Common Projects is really the original luxe sneaker brand, and they’ve stayed relevant for a reason.

    435$, NeedSupply.com


  4. Ann Demeulemeester Suede Low-Top

    Photo: FWRD



    While not exactly a court shoe (they’re more of a take on the venerable Converse), these suede low-tops nonetheless offer a great alternative to your standard tennis shoe. They’re much more versatile than the brand’s die-hard fans would have you believe, and are equally at home with head-to-toe Ann D. or a rolled-up pair of Engineered Garments BDU pants. The suede upper takes on added character with wear, and well-read forumites will know to ask their cobbler about adding a Vibram (or other rubber) outsole for increased longevity and grip. At this point, they’re a modern classic.

    830$, fwrd.com


  5. Filling Pieces “Low Top Tabs White”

    Photo: Filling Pieces

    Looking for a little more flash from your court shoe? Streetwear brand Filling Pieces could be right up your alley. This take on their classic Tabs low top adds a gum sole and toe-cap perforation for a does of athletic style. Prices, while firmly upmarket, aren’t Givenchy-high, which means you’ll have some cash left over for a fancy pair of sweatpants. Long live athleisure!

    EUR240, Fillingpieces.com

Understanding Fabric Weight

We all get to know cloth in different ways, and fabric weight is but one characteristic to consider. Some men caress lovingly, as if the fibers might start purring. Other men are grabbers. There’s the more visual types that care not so much for the tactile qualities, but instead the richness of color or derring-do of pattern. But this is all in the sensual beginning of a relationship with a fabric. Before settling down permanently with a new addition to their closet, the connoisseur will consider the cloth’s weight.

A cloth’s weight affects in turn three of its most important properties: how hot it is to wear, how it “drapes,” and how it holds up throughout the day and over the course of many years. Weight is not the only thing that affects any of these three, but it does affect all three. Let us consider each in turn.

Hot and Heavy

You probably don’t need me to tell you that heavier fabrics wear warmer. This is the main thing that people think of when choosing a weight. Most worsted navy suits you see at department stores are three-season weight, meaning they’re probably 8 to 10 ounce fabric. In generations past, that would be considered an extremely lightweight suit. But weaving technology has improved the performance of lighter weight fabrics, and, perhaps more importantly, indoor climate control has rendered the need for a warm-wearing suit nearly moot. If you got a closet full of navy business suits in nine ounce wool and just piled on outerwear in the winter, you’d probably get along just fine. 

But suppose you wanted something that wears cooler to wear in the summer. First of all, be aware that no fabric will magically turn your suit into an air conditioner. If it’s hot outside, you’ll be hot in your suit. But you could try a fabric even lighter than the eight-to-ten multi-season range, but this choice brings difficulties that I will get to in a bit. Better is to get a fabric with an open weave. Fabrics are made by weaving together two yarns – a warp going one way, and a weft going the other. An “open” weave is one with more space in between the yarns, which allows body heat to escape. Fresco (which means “cool” in Italian) is such a fabric, and its ability to keep the wearer cool without being too lightweight is why it is valued so highly. 

Your other option is linen. Linen wears cool because it wicks away moisture, and because the flowiness of the fabric keeps air moving through. But linen is controversial. It wrinkles on sight, which drives some people mad. It’s also less formal than wool, so might not be acceptable in some offices. And the good stuff is not even very lightweight; I have a jacket in linen that I think is 17 ounces – as heavy as many overcoats. It’s not for everyone.

Actually, it’s worth saying that none of this advice applies equally to everyone. Some guys are totally happy wearing a 15 ounce wool suit in the summertime. Other guys start sweating wearing a ten ounce suit in winter. You have to figure out where you’re comfortable.

Matching Drapes

Every tailor prefers to work with heavier cloth, because it’s easier to tailor and drapes better. Especially for trousers. A heavier fabric will be able to maintain a better line, whereas a lighter fabric will flounce all over the place. Adding cuffs to a lighter fabric will help a little, but not much. For this reason, and because you’re generally cooler in your legs anyway, I prefer odd trousers in heavier fabrics than odd jackets. Of course for suits the weights must be the same. 

Heavier fabrics make better jackets as well. The canvas inside can pick up some of the slack for a lighter fabric, but the heavier the fabric, the easier it is to make it sit nice. It’s rare that a fabric that’s lighter than eight ounces makes up into a nice jacket. 

Durability

Another problem with lighter fabrics is that they won’t last very long. Whereas a heavier fabric has a lot of fiber, and therefore can survive some pilling or wear, a lightweight fabric has no backup line of defense. Again, there are exceptions. Fresco’s high twist weave makes it more durable. Woollen flannel is made of yarns that are more frayed, and therefore has a shorter lifespan despite usually being made in heavier weights.

If you’re getting a suit that you’ll only wear a few times a year or less, then you probably don’t need to worry about this much. You’ll probably manage to ruin it by spilling some spaghetti sauce or gaining a few pounds too many before you wear down the fabric. 

But even if you’re not wearing through the fabric, less hardy fabric also requires more pressing. A good tweed suit, or a robust worsted like Lesser 13, can be worn for years without even losing the crease in the trousers. A flimsy suit might look and feel great in the morning but have you looking for an iron by lunchtime.

In the end, of course, you’ll go home with the cloth you want. But think of this as a cheat sheet to carry around in your head, like those cards people use at blackjack tables. It doesn’t stop people from hitting on 17 with the dealer showing a five, but at least you’ll know you’re not supposed to:


Less than eight ounces                   Proceed with extreme caution; suit is likely not to last long and have a hard time keeping its shape

Eight to ten ounces                          Typical multi-season weights, with warm weather suits on the bottom end and cold weather suits on the top end.

Eleven to sixteen ounces                 Unless it’s linen, suits in this range are meant for cold weather

Above sixteen ounces                     Really heavy-duty stuff, intended for really heavy tweed jackets or overcoats

Styleforum’s Favorite Brands, Pt. 2

Styleforum has a lot of “favorite” brands. Last week, we covered a small selection of standouts, and this week we’re taking a look at a few more of the most popular houses and designers on the forum. They wax and wane in popularity over the course of months or years, and because of the diversity of our members these brands range from the rigidly conservative to the breathtakingly avant garde. Although this isn’t a complete list, it does capture a snapshot of some up-and-comers alongside a number of old standbys. Let’s take a look at a second set of Styleforum’s favorite brands, and what they say about us – the people who love to wear them.


 

Blue Blue Japan

Styleforum's favorite brands: blue blue japan

The Dream: You live a simple but fulfilled life of meditative tranquility. You’re content with everything you own, and enjoy the simple pleasures of morning coffee and quiet walks in the woods. You don’t pay attention to what you wear, because to do so would be an unnecessary source of anxiety, and it all looks great anyway.

The Reality: You’ve completely lost all self-control, and you can’t keep yourself from buying yet another indigo-dyed bathrobe even though your closet is already full of identical items of blue clothing. Your friends are not pleased that you leave blue stains all over their walls, furniture, and pets.

 


 

Camoshita

styleforum's favorite brands: camoshita

Photo: No Man Walks Alone

The Dream: You’re a modern style icon; a living throwback to the halcyon days of movie-stardom and low-key Hollywood glamour. Your tastes are unique, your interests eclectic, and every time you post on Instagram a fashion subculture is born.

The Reality: You’ll never be Yasuto Kamoshita.


Drake’s

Photo: Drake's

Photo: Drake’s

The Dream: Everything you own is of the highest quality, including the meticulously-reconstructed Jaguar you drive as though it’s brand new. Everyone knows your name and smiles at you, and you often hold court at hotel bars. Your routine is such that your job gives you as much pleasure as your days off, which you spend shooting skeet, exploring dingy side-street markets, or restoring antique furniture.

The Reality: You collect interesting pocket squares because they are the only source of color, whimsy, and fantasy in the crushing grind that is your grim, quotidian existence.


Dries van Noten

Styleforum's Favorite Brands: Dries van Noten

Photo: Roden Gray

The Dream: You live on a fantastical, rambling estate that would make Tim Burton jealous, where you throw whimsical garden masquerades for your group of very close international friends, none of whom care about fashion but all of whom have innately good taste. Your house is decorated with art you personally purchased on every continent.

The Reality: Dries van Noten doesn’t fit you. It never fits you. Why doesn’t it fit you? If it fit you, you’d wear Dries van Noten exclusively. You think about wearing Dries van Noten so much that it’s as if you only wear Dries van Noten. Except you don’t, because Dries van Noten doesn’t fit you.


Edward Green

styleforum's favorite brands: edward green

Photo: @RogerP

The Dream: All of the exquisite leather goods found in your manor home are of matching shades; this was unintentional but the results are pleasant. Once yearly, you bring your collection of shoes and a bottle of fine scotch to an aged man in a dark, wooded basement room. He wears an apron and grunts approvingly, then cleans your shoes for you while you sip whiskey and talk about the old days when everything was made to impeccable standards. Not once has he remarked on the several newspaper articles that are written about you every year, which you appreciate.

The Reality: No one, not even once, has ever given your shoes so much as a second glance.


Isaia

styleforum's favorite brands: Isaia

Photo: Isaia

The Dream: You travel between your various vacation homes and yacht in a limousine full of half-naked men and women. You rarely wear a tie. Wherever you go, there is a glass of champagne waiting for you.

The Reality: Everyone you know is desperately sick of seeing your chest hair, but are still hoping it’s just a phase. Your doctor says you should drink less.


Maison Margiela

styleforum's favorite brands: maison margiela

Photo: Maison Martin Margiela S/S2010

The Dream: Your wardrobe is a fashion collector’s wet dream, and you own every archival piece worth owning. No one ever comments on your wardrobe, which you prefer – it lets you feel silently superior to everyone around you. Sometimes you’re stopped on the street by fashion photographers who are in the know, but you refuse to have your picture taken.

The Reality: You bought your first pair of sneakers after hearing “Margiela” in a rap lyric; now you talk about how Margiela was only good “When Margiela was there,” even though you have no idea when that was or how to pronounce Margiela.


Ring Jacket

Styleforum's favorite brands: ring jacket

Photo: Alex Scharf

The Dream: You spend your time jetting back and forth between New York and Tokyo, writing articles for men’s interest magazines in multiple languages the world over. Every coffee shop you go to knows your “usual,” even the ones you’ve never been to before. You still read newspapers that are made out of paper.

The Reality: You know, in your heart of hearts, that you are a size 40 – but the tailor at the dry-cleaner in the strip mall is getting really sick of sewing buttons back on your jackets.


Rick Owens

Styleforum's favorite brands: rick owens

Photo: Matthew Stone for Business of Fashion

The Dream: You live very simply in a very expensive flat in a cosmopolitan city, where you listen to experimental noise rock and melodic growling on speakers made of sculpted concrete. You wear one of a simple assortment of silk t-shirts every day, all of which are just sheer enough that unsuspecting bystanders are treated to a tasty view of your rock-hard abs. You collect rare architecture magazines and ultra-modern sex toys.

The Reality: “Working out is modern couture,” you say over and over under your breath as you ride your bicycle through your suburban neighborhood, hoping the over-long DRKSHDW tag in your shorts doesn’t get caught in the chain. Your dunks don’t fit on the pedals.

 


 

Saint Laurent Paris

Styleforum's favorite brands: saint Laurent Paris

Photo: Saint Laurent Paris

The Dream: Your industrial-chic studio apartment is full of collectable vinyl and artsy black-and-white photography, all of which has been signed by the artist. No one knows what you do for a living, and you’d be hard-pressed to explain it. Your famous musician friends regularly ask for your opinion on their beats, and every weekend you go to house parties played by bigger names than most festivals.

The Reality: You desperately wish Hedi had designed looser jeans, because you’re starting to lose feeling in your feet.

5 Essentials of Neapolitan Style

In general, the Neapolitan style is “simple” – the Neapolitan gentleman will be not be perfect in every way, but he will be elegant and nonchalant. With that in mind, here are the five essentials of my wardrobe.


  1. Neapolitan Jacket, either in brown or blue. The Neapolitan jacket is unique in having a light, casual structure, which makes it perfect for both casual wear and tailored outfits.  Many people love the soft, easy feeling of wearing one, as a good Neapolitan jacket is like a second skin.image4


  2. Striped Shirt, of which there are several possibilities. White and blue, white and light blue, and white and green are all very useful standbys, and are simple but never boring. Called bacchettato napoletano, these shirts are wearable on all occasions, with or without a tie.image8


  3. Madder silk tie, in beige, burgundy, dark green, or blue. These offer a versatile, colorful background that is easy to wear with an odd jacket and trouser, or with a suit. There are of course many other tie options, but madder silk is always a good choice. 
  4. image3


  5. Pleated trouser, in any fabric. It should be 4 seasons-appropriate, however, because in Naples it’s warm through the winter. The accepted look is to have only a single pleat, and to accompany it with a 4.5cm cuff. This keeps the silhouette trim, while maintaining the relaxed shape and feel that Neapolitan style is known for.

    image6



  6. Loafer/tassel loafer in suede or leather. For go-anywhere, comfortable style, the tassel loafer is a great choice all year round. It’s also an excellent travel shoe, as it slips on and off and can easily be fit into your luggage.image1

You can find more of Nicola’s thoughts and writing at www.nicolaradano.com, where he discusses his youthful take on Neapolitan style. Nicola’s ties are available at Spacca Neapolis

How to Jump Into Bespoke

Today I’m in a salon in San Francisco with my wife.  The stylist asks how she wants her hair, and as she responds, she’s also using her hands almost like paintbrushes, drawing invisible lines here and there to indicate bob and bang length.  Then she points to a picture of a model on a wall.

“Like that.” 

Getting a bespoke suit follows a similar path.  We have an image in our mind and say to ourselves, “I want to look like that.”  Getting to look like that can be tricky.  Where to begin?  The following steps should help you on your way.

Decide what style you want. This cannot be overemphasized.  When you look at a picture of a suit you like, what exactly about it attracts you?  Is it the roping on the sleevehead, clean chest, and precise lines?  Or maybe you’re drawn to the roundness of the shoulders, gentle drape and curves, and soft tailoring.  Perhaps you like them all, but what do you see yourself in?  Nail that down, and proceed to step two.

Find a tailor that makes what you like as the house style.  This can be tough.  Generally speaking, there are three types of tailoring: British, American, and Italian.  The tailoring houses in the respective countries roughly adhere to the local style, but even within there are differences.  There are several threads on Styleforum that focus on various tailoring houses and geographical particularities; peruse them to pinpoint the one that most appeals to you.  These will get you started:

THE ANDERSON & SHEPPARD EXPATRIATES THREAD900x900px-ll-1f6ab035_i-79sdpzv-x2

FRENCH TAILORING THREAD

ANTONIO LIVERANO, FLORENTINE TAILOR

EAST SICILY TAILORS

 


Decide if you are willing to travel.  If so, you can go to any tailor you want, with only time and your budget to hold you back.  If not, you need to limit your choices to traveling tailors.  Here are a couple threads on StyleForum with tailors that travel to the US:

STEED TAILORS

WW CHAN

Plan the logistics of your travel.  Earlier this year I went to Sicily and wanted to try the tailors there.  When planning for the trip, I started to look for hotels and rental car agencies.  Many of these are available online in English, and email communication is also in English.  ProTip for car rental: InterRent is reliable and crazy cheap, often $20 a day or less for a car.  Their offices are sometimes located away from the airport but they do provide shuttle service.  Hotels usually speak English, and depending on your pocketbook, Sicily can provide unforgettable accommodations.

Set900x900px-ll-2505fe4a_tumblr_mltkm24ltx1rf1jvro1_1280 up an appointment. Many Italian tailoring shops don’t speak English, so along with other useful questions such as “Qual’è il miglior vino della casa?” you need to learn simple phrases to set up your appointment.  In this regard, utilize the many online translation sites, or language apps to use on your smartphone.  Or try this:  “Buongiorno, mi chiamo Peter. Voglio venire alla sua sartoria il diciannove ottobre alle 3 di pomeriggio. Va bene per lei?”

Since I speak conversational Italian, I called to let both tailors know the dates and general time of day I would be coming, which I did again about a week before my departure date. Most tailors will not discuss prices over the phone, so while it’s good to have a ballpark figure, be prepared for a somewhat fluid policy.  Allow at least a week for the first visit, first fitting, a possible second fitting, and the finished product.  If staying for less time, most tailors are willing to ship to you at cost. 

But what do you do once you get there?  What can you expect?  What do you ask?  I asked venerable StyleForum members to share their experiences, and next week’s Journal will reveal their responses.

Styleforum endorses the Ami double-breasted overcoat

One of the perks of going to a winter wedding is that you’ll get to wear an overcoat, which makes your outfit feel so much more substantial than anything you can wear in the summer.  I’m 42 now, which means that most of my friends were married over a decade ago (the average age at which people get married, according to a quick google search, is about 29, in the USA).  However, I have a large extended family, which means that I have a lot of younger cousins who are just now tying the knot, hitching the horse, or whatever euphemism you wish to use.  This means that my 15 year old overcoat will probably not fit any more.  And while I wouldn’t mind spring $3K on that casentino overcoat from Liverano&Liverano I saw in Florence a few years ago, I won’t need it that often (my family is not that big, nor do I need to wear suits that often). And with kids of my own, and a house, and all of that stuff that cost money, $3K seems a bit extravagant right now.  So, I’ve decided to go with this Ami double-breasted overcoat, which hits all the right style notes, and is the right price too.

Double-breasted camel hair overcoats are one of the few overcoats that have sporting, rather than military, roots, and originally appeared as a cover-up on the sidelines, apparently at polo matches.  Even though features in the original coat changed as it became a staple in both the UK and at American Universities, with two columns of buttons replacing the original belt, the original inspiration for the beige colored, double-breasted overcoat with flapped patch pockets is still quite recognizable.  It soon became an overcoat that was used for occasions of differing formality levels.  I saw this on East Coast campuses a lot in the noughties, and more and more throughout the general populace as long coats have become more and more popular for casual use, in this decade.

Of course, clothing evolves, and today’s versions of polo coats so often have details added or taken away that it’s probably best to just descriptively call the thing a double-breasted camel overcoat, to avoid arguments about whether it’s more like a polo coat, or more like a military greatcoat, or whatever.  It’s fun to discuss and argue the distinctions in an online discussion on Styleforum, of course.

Parisian brand Ami, founded by Marc Jacobs and Dior alum Alexandre Mattiussi, concentrates on contemporary sartorial basics and good approachable prices.  I’ve heard it called the heir apparent to A.P.C., and each collection includes robust similar sportwear and military inspired pieces in narrow and straight cuts that characterize early A.P.C., the brand is a little more urbane, a little more like that other French stalwart brand -Agnes B.

The original versions of this coat were apparently made of camelhair.  This coat uses the 80% wool/20% polyamide blend melton that is common in many modern overcoats, with the polyamide lending strength to a thinner material than would have been previously used.  Purists sometimes scoff and make sour faces at the use of synthetics, but I see it as an acceptable concession to modern tastes, which tend towards lighter weight fabrics.  I personally love the 32 ounce traditional melton, but I know that a lot of guys balk at that weight.  Also, textiles sciences has made great strides since the 1970s, when synthetics developed their bad reputation, and the old, still lingering, negative ideas about them are simply inaccurate.

The new version of the double-breasted overcoat also has a slim fit, which is quite different from the boxy fit of the original coat, and has set in, flapped pockets, rather than the original patch pockets.  Both I see as merciful changes made for the non-perfect physique.

Ami doublebreasted overcoat, $840 at www.mrporter.com

ami double-breasted overcoat

Ami doublebreasted overcoat, $840 at www.mrporter.com

Sunday Styles: Sashiko Jacket

sashiko jacket

It’s only fitting that we showcase a sashiko jacket after this week’s feature. The deep blue of this heavy Luxire jacket looks great with earth tones – say, a chambray work shirt from Taylor Stitch and slim trousers from our long-time Canadian favorites, Wings + Horns. A lightweight hiking boot that’s equally at home on the street offers enough bulk to stand up to the jacket, and wayfarer-style sunnies, like this pair from Henry Blake, are always appropriate.

1. Heavy Sashiko Jacket from Luxire

2. Chambray Utility Shirt from Taylor Stitch

3. Wings + Horns Tokyo pant from Need Supply Co.

4. Danner x New Balance Hiking Boots from Portland Dry Goods

5. Wanderer Sunglasses from Henry Blake

Good Buy: 1ST PAT–RN Chore Jacket

I’ve been meaning to pick up a second chore jacket for a while now, but still haven’t found the perfect vintage example to call my own. I really like this 1ST PAT-RN chore jacket, called the “Officina.” I’ve been following the brand for a while now, and although I haven’t taken the plunge and purchased anything yet, I’m almost always tempted but everything they make. The styling of the Officina is a little more trim and militaristic, which makes the silhouette a bit sharper than a vintage version, or even some of the heavy, workwear-styled jackets you can find these days. This one sports a very handy interior pocket (many chore jackets don’t), and the stitched-in back belt is a nice touch. It’s also trimmed with visible selvage on the seams, which makes the construction look pleasantly clean.

I quite like these unlined, light jackets. They’re really versatile – you can wear them as a light outer layer, put them over a sweater, or even use them as a mid-layer under a coat or a vest. And they lend themselves to styling of all kinds: denim is easy, but olive trousers look great, as do sharp black trousers. Footwear is equally simple – as long as you’re not wearing sharp, leather-soled shoes, you’re probably good. I’d wear this one with either lightweight chukkas (or your favorite boots), or maybe some Birkenstocks for lounging around. I admit I’m a little sick of the ultra-clean CP achilles-with-chore-jacket look, but it’s certainly an option.

The 1ST PAT-RN version is more expensive than a lot of its competitors, but I think it’s worth it – especially if you’re into high-quality construction. The extra details definitely set it apart, the sharper silhouette lends itself to more styling options, and for whatever it’s worth you don’t run as much of a risk of looking like a slave to current trends.

Our friends over at Standard and Strange carry the full line, which I encourage you to check out.

1ST PAT-RN “Officina” chore jacket, $425 at Standard & Strange

1st pat-rn chore jacket

Styleforum’s Favorite Brands

Styleforum has a lot of “favorite” brands. They wax and wane in popularity over the course of months or years, and because of the diversity of our members these brands range from the rigidly conservative to the breathtakingly avant garde. Although this isn’t a complete list, it does capture a snapshot of some up-and-comers alongside a number of old standbys. Let’s take a look at Styleforum’s favorite brands, and what they say about us – the people who love to wear them.


Alden

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Epaulet

The Dream: You’re a globe-trotting gentleman-explorer, and your footwear reflects that. No matter the occasion, you’re always well put-together – but you never stick out. Several people have referred to you as “dashing.”

The Reality: You spend more time applying leather-care product to your massive collection of Alden shoes than you do wearing them.


Brooks Brothers

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Brooks Brothers

The Dream: Your life is a perfect blend of work and play. You roll up your chinos and play tag football on the lawn. You are happy and content, your collar roll is always immaculate, and you spend your summers vacationing on the Vineyard.  You know it’s gotten crowded but you just can’t imagine going anywhere else – you’ve made such meaningful connections.

The Reality: You have recently discovered that penny loafers don’t go with everything. You constantly talk about how “real men wear pink,” but you’re uncomfortable and fidgety every time you do. Recently, you have begun to fear that people find you boring.

 


Carol Christian Poell

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

The Dream: You curate a minimalist gallery in a European city. Or if not a gallery, you curate a hugely popular photo-slash-contemporary philosophy website with descriptions of each photo posted in all caps. You curate something. People admire your taste.

The Reality: Upwards of five people owned your “collection” before you. You rarely wear any of it, and when you do, you remember why you don’t. You think about selling all of it constantly, but worry that you won’t be able to make back what you paid. You wonder why you don’t just start curating sweatpants instead. You have begun to suspect that no one cares about your moody photography.


 

Christian Kimber

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Christian Kimber

The Dream: You’re a free spirit, the kind of guy who spends weekends at destination flea markets looking for antiques to furnish the quirky studio apartment you keep in a neat, artsy neighborhood. You ride your skateboard to the coffee shop every morning; not to work, but to read several Very Interesting Books every week. Your signature touch is a giant scarf. You eat a lot of noodles.

The Reality: You’re an internet hobbyist who spends his days browsing web-stores.

 


Eidos Napoli

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Eidos

The Dream: You are an Italian bon vivant who has excellent hair and rides a scooter through the hills of Tuscany.

The Reality: You got the suit 40% off  at Bloomingdales. Sometimes, guys at work ask if you have an interview.  Now you mostly wear it for your Instagram. You have 200 followers.


 

Engineered Garments

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Stitched and Stitched

The Dream: You make a living as a travel correspondent, and spend your days fishing, surfing, and hiking with your group of friends and photogenic dogs. All of you carry vintage film cameras – even the dogs. You routinely get your fancy clothing very dirty, but you don’t care. Sometimes candid photos of you appear in Japanese style magazines, with captions like “How to live a care-free life.”

The Reality: Your apartment doesn’t allow dogs, and people wonder why you’re always wearing the same jacket and carrying a camera around.

 


 

Kapital

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Kapital

The Dream: You are a carefree artistic type, a creative director at an independent magazine. You are well-read and your friends are regularly featured in iD magazine.

The Reality: On the street, people wonder if you are homeless.  You tell your friends you got it all on sale so that they won’t ridicule you for the prices you paid. You secretly wish you lived in Japan and owned an Indigo dye-house.


 

Robert Geller

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Barney’s

The Dream: You spend your time drinking ironic beer on urban rooftops around the world with your friends, all of whom are models, photographers, and graphic designers. You just launched a fashion magazine that has disrupted the industry and brought you several publisher’s accolades.

The Reality: You have three bomber jackets in your closet. You never know what to wear with any of them.

 


 

Suit Supply

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Suit Supply

The Dream: You are a successful young entrepreneur. You are stylish and always up-to-date on the latest New Yorker. You have respected opinions on everything from art to the economy to the state of the Great Barrier Reef.

The Reality: People wonder why your pants are so tight, and most women you meet find you just creepy enough to avoid. Your boss thinks you spend too much time looking in the mirror.

 


 

 

Visvim

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Antik Boutik

The Dream: You drive a vintage Defender, and all of your most precious belongings can fit into a single well-worn duffle bag. You live authentically. You eat interesting street food all over the world. You laugh constantly. Visvim is the only brand in your closet.

The Reality: You talk about hating John Mayer because he’s not authentic but deep down you burn with unbearable jealousy.

Denver’s Best Menswear Stores

Denver is an interesting city in a number of ways. While plenty of local writers are happy to talk up the city’s cultural scene, I’ll be the first to say that Colorado’s capital isn’t a menswear (or cultural) mecca in the way America’s coastal cities are. It’s been an “Up-and-coming” spot for as long as I can remember, and it’s my opinion that it still hasn’t quite arrived yet.

However, with tens of thousands of people moving to Colorado every year, there’s certainly a new interest in menswear that didn’t exist ten years ago. While most of the Denver metro area skews towards offering solid, utility-oriented outdoor clothing (The North Face, Mont Bell, and Salomon are what you’ll see most people wearing – along with a lot of yoga clothing), there are a handful of local stores that do offer garments for the discerning enthusiast. Denver’s options range from skater-focused streetwear to contemporary Italian design to high-end tailored clothing. Here are my picks for Denver’s best menswear stores, with an eye on finding something for everyone.


Andrisen Morton
High-end tailored clothing

The first stop on our list, Andrisen Morton, is the store to visit if you’re interested in tailored clothing. They stock an impressive number of well-regarded tailored brands, such as Kiton, Caruso, Brioni, Canali, and Cucinelli, and they even range into accessories from Tom Ford and Shinola. If there’s one department in which they’re lacking it’s footwear, as Alden is, the last time I checked, the only quality shoe brand on the shelves.

The buys, while extensive, aren’t necessarily adventurous, instead focusing on a particular look that’s there to attract Denver’s growing middle class, fueled by the tech and finance industries. Denver remains a more conservative environment than California, but hidden in among the office-ready suits and separates are enough characterful brands and pieces to make a trip well worth your time.

If you’re looking for a dinner jacket in burgundy velvet, or an unlined casual blazer to wear out the door, Andrisen morton is your best stop. The store is impressively large, and in addition to what’s on the shelves they offer an array of fabric swatch books for you to peruse. There isn’t much in the way of casual or streetwear, but then again, that’s not why you came, is it?


Steadbrook
Minimal urban workwear

Clean workwear is the bread-and-butter of Steadbrook’s offerings. This store, which is half coffee-space and half showroom, is a poster child of Denver’s post-hipster culture. Located near Washington Park in the Baker neighborhood, Steadbrook rubs shoulders with tattoo parlors and bars. The space itself is brightly lit and minimal, with a heavy does of content curation, but Steadbrook nonetheless stocks a respectable selection of Styleforum-approved streetwear brands.

Less loud and youthful than the Denver shops offering Billionaire Boys Club and walls of high-top sneakers, Steadbrook is the purveyor of the Denver uniform: clean, raw denim, sleek workwear, and un-fussy footwear. Japan Blue, Momotaro, and 3Sixteen denim sits alongside clothing from forum standbys such as Apolis, Reigning Champ, Norse Projects, and Our Legacy. Simple offerings from Vans and Adidas remind the visitor that this is a streetwear destination, while accessories from Miansai and a small selection of grooming supplies reinforce the coffee-shop/lifestyle aspect of the store. There are even a handful of skateboards for you to check out, assuming you didn’t ride your fixie.


SuitSupply
Affordable, trendy tailored clothing

By now, SuitSupply is probably a familiar name to any forum member, but the Dutch brand’s decision to open an outpost in Cherry Creek suggests that the Denver market is there to support it. It certainly speaks to the area’s tastes at the moment: easy, affordable suiting that’s well-made enough to stand up to curiosity and criticism, and stylish enough to keep wearers from feeling like office drones. SuitSupply offers a rotating, seasonal selection of basic and less-basic suits and separates, and the fact that the products never go on sale (except for a twice-yearly seasonal inventory purge) hasn’t stopped #menswear aficionados from stocking up on blazers for every day of the week.

The Denver location is one of the fastest-growing Suit Supply stores in the country, which is surprising in a state whose “house style” tends to be “I found it at the REI garage sale.” The staff is friendly, the building is nice, and if you’re in search of something particular on a budget – or something fun – there’s a good chance SuitSupply will have you covered. It’s become a go-to shop for the city, and caters to young men starting out on their careers, hobbyists with an interest in clothing, and even Denver’s professional athletes, many of whom are devoted customers. Besides, it’s right next to the first and third stops on our list.


Lawrence Covell
Contemporary men’s and women’s design

Lawrence Covell is my pick for the most interesting menswear store in the Denver area. First and foremost, the women’s selection is at least as nice as the men’s, so if you’re bringing a female friend along she’ll have something to do. It’s located essentially across the street from Andrisen Morton and around the corner for Suit Supply, but does cater to a slightly different customer – one that’s less conservative and perhaps more willing to browse and experiment.

Although Lawrence Covell has some real personality, the racks and shelves are still stocked with a mix of contemporary and classic brands that leans towards conservative.  If you can look past the required offerings (there’s many a chino to be found alongside the Citizens of Humanity denim), the buys offer a surprising amount of character. It helps that the store itself is comfortable, well-lit and airy. The women’s section in particular has some gems, showcasing both classic (and very luxurious) pieces from Brunello Cucinelli and Carven alongside Dries Van Noten and even more street-driven buys from Rag and Bone and Public School.

For the men, Caruso, Bontoni, and Luciano Barbera are stocked alongside Eidos Napoli and Eleventy, while offerings from Oliver Spencer, Barena Venezia, and Gitman Vintage round out the more casual pieces. A respectable selection of Alden and Common Projects shoes isn’t exactly groundbreaking, but it does mesh well with what’s shown on the shop floor. The look is clean and trim, but largely unfussy and not as rigid as what you might find at Andrisen Morton – an appealing blend.