Introducing: 1st PAT-RN

There is quite a bit of “workwear” shown at Pitti Uomo, and I use the scare quotes for a reason. I’m not usually one to complain about a lack of functionality in clothing, but it’s difficult not to think that most of what is presented as workwear is a joke: flimsy, trend-driven, and beyond that, boring and unflattering. Not so with 1ST PAT-RN, the project of  Cristiano Berto and Sylvia Piccin. This is a brand that combines elements of workwear, trad-wear, and ivy-style to offer what I’d describe as nostalgic explorer-wear.

1st pat-rn styleforum

Cristiano and Sylvia

Before you balk at that description, the clothing isn’t costumey in the vein of Haversack or even hardcore in the way of Nigel Cabourn. Nonetheless, it does evoke some of the same feelings of the gentleman (or gentlewoman, as there are women’s pieces as well) traveler, with a regular selection of blazers and chore jackets set atop tapered chinos and denim.

There are two aspects that set 1ST PAT-RN apart: meticulous fabric choice, and smart, largely modern (if vintage-inspired) cuts. The combination results in clothing that is both pleasant to wear and very wearable, with a narrow but fulfilling range of styles. The pieces that most grabbed my interest during our visit were a pair of lovely straight-legged 4-pocket trousers in an indigo twill, and the very handsome chore jackets – in particular, a model in deutschleder that was made specially for Manufactum Magazin (which I hope makes its way into the main collection).

Fans of layering will rejoice, as there are enough interesting mid-layers (vests, knits and the like) to provide a good backbone to the very strong basics; as will those of us who are always looking for an escape from slim jeans and trousers – you’ll find both straight legs and pleats here, which look very nice when presented with chunky footwear. 1ST PAT-RN has also worked with Timex to release a handful of special dials and straps, which makes a great deal of sense when you’ve seen the clothes. They’re similar in style – 1ST PAT-RN is deceptively complex, well thought-out, and utilitarian – but with an enduring attractiveness that’s both compelling and hard to ignore, no matter your personal style.


See photos from Pitti, as well as images from the S/S2017 lookbook, in the slideshow below

@child_of_scorn

Good Buy: 1ST PAT–RN Chore Jacket

I’ve been meaning to pick up a second chore jacket for a while now, but still haven’t found the perfect vintage example to call my own. I really like this 1ST PAT-RN chore jacket, called the “Officina.” I’ve been following the brand for a while now, and although I haven’t taken the plunge and purchased anything yet, I’m almost always tempted but everything they make. The styling of the Officina is a little more trim and militaristic, which makes the silhouette a bit sharper than a vintage version, or even some of the heavy, workwear-styled jackets you can find these days. This one sports a very handy interior pocket (many chore jackets don’t), and the stitched-in back belt is a nice touch. It’s also trimmed with visible selvage on the seams, which makes the construction look pleasantly clean.

I quite like these unlined, light jackets. They’re really versatile – you can wear them as a light outer layer, put them over a sweater, or even use them as a mid-layer under a coat or a vest. And they lend themselves to styling of all kinds: denim is easy, but olive trousers look great, as do sharp black trousers. Footwear is equally simple – as long as you’re not wearing sharp, leather-soled shoes, you’re probably good. I’d wear this one with either lightweight chukkas (or your favorite boots), or maybe some Birkenstocks for lounging around. I admit I’m a little sick of the ultra-clean CP achilles-with-chore-jacket look, but it’s certainly an option.

The 1ST PAT-RN version is more expensive than a lot of its competitors, but I think it’s worth it – especially if you’re into high-quality construction. The extra details definitely set it apart, the sharper silhouette lends itself to more styling options, and for whatever it’s worth you don’t run as much of a risk of looking like a slave to current trends.

Our friends over at Standard and Strange carry the full line, which I encourage you to check out.

1ST PAT-RN “Officina” chore jacket, $425 at Standard & Strange

1st pat-rn chore jacket