An unusual, impractical daub of color is one way to grab the attention of casual passersby at Pitti, where orders, after all, are still dominated by tones of navy, black, khaki, and gray. But it seemed maker after maker had at least a pair of shoes (mostly brogues) that were emphatically not in compliance with conservative business dress regs. While it’s not surprising to see out-of-the-shoebox thinking from lines like Yuketen (who, in addition to new colors, used exotic skins and hair on hide calf) and ts(s) (mixed panel, poly felt brogue boots), it was matched also with the casual tailoring of Italian lines like Lubiam and Piombo.  If seeing red shoes has you seeing red, read no further.

 Aubergine and blue at Edward Green.

Green suede at Simone Righi’s Frasi shop.

Red with natural leather midsole at Lubiam.

A nonproduction sample in burgundy at Alden. I.e., they won’t be making this. Sad face.

Deep green suede with a natural welt from Yuketen.