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There is quite a bit of “workwear” shown at Pitti Uomo, and I use the scare quotes for a reason. I’m not usually one to complain about a lack of functionality in clothing, but it’s difficult not to think that most of what is presented as workwear is a joke: flimsy, trend-driven, and beyond that, boring and unflattering. Not so with 1ST PAT-RN, the project of Cristiano Berto and Sylvia Piccin. This is a brand that combines elements of workwear, trad-wear, and ivy-style to offer what I’d describe as nostalgic explorer-wear.

Cristiano and Sylvia

Before you balk at that description, the clothing isn’t costumey in the vein of Haversack or even hardcore in the way of Nigel Cabourn. Nonetheless, it does evoke some of the same feelings of the gentleman (or gentlewoman, as there are women’s pieces as well) traveler, with a regular selection of blazers and chore jackets set atop tapered chinos and denim.

There are two aspects that set 1ST PAT-RN apart: meticulous fabric choice, and smart, largely modern (if vintage-inspired) cuts. The combination results in clothing that is both pleasant to wear and very wearable, with a narrow but fulfilling range of styles. The pieces that most grabbed my interest during our visit were a pair of lovely straight-legged 4-pocket trousers in an indigo twill, and the very handsome chore jackets – in particular, a model in deutschleder that was made specially for Manufactum Magazin (which I hope makes its way into the main collection).

: 4-pocket trousers in indigo twill

: A very nice deutschleder jacket

Fans of layering will rejoice, as there are enough interesting mid-layers (vests, knits and the like) to provide a good backbone to the very strong basics; as will those of us who are always looking for an escape from slim jeans and trousers – you’ll find both straight legs and pleats here, which look very nice when presented with chunky footwear. 1ST PAT-RN has also worked with Timex to release a handful of special dials and straps, which makes a great deal of sense when you’ve seen the clothes. They’re similar in style – 1ST PAT-RN is deceptively complex, well thought-out, and utilitarian – but with an enduring attractiveness that’s both compelling and hard to ignore, no matter your personal style.

See photos from Pitti, as well as images from the S/S2017 lookbook, in the slideshow below

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@child_of_scorn

In this new series, we ask Styleforum members to tell us what sparked their interest in fashion, and how they found their way to Styleforum. An Acute Style is a regular fixture in Classic Menswear’s “What Are You Wearing” and “Casual Style” threads. He’s known for his unique, sometimes experimental take on Ivy and Prep style, and excels at injecting color, pattern, and texture into everyday outfits.

Four major events have moved me along the sartorial journey. First, I started teaching high school right out of undergraduate. I was 22 and my students were 18. I wanted to do something to differentiate myself from them so I grew a mustache and started wearing a tie to work. On the occasions I didn’t wear a tie, the security guards would summarily mistake me for a student, requesting that I present ID to gain entrance to my job. I made the shirt and tie a standard to cut down on the embarrassment.

Next, my girlfriend (later wife) at the time recommended I look into British shirting, a tip from one of her coworkers. TM Lewin changed the game for me. Well priced, slim fit shirts with great collars and patterns at affordable prices. Sign me up.

Then, my wife start a personal style blog. As I helped her with her site, my style began to develop as well. I started my own blog on Tumblr soon after. Through Tumblr, I was first introduced to the #menswear community. I slowly took my place in it, adding new brands, sport coats, and pocket squares to my mix. I was also introduced to the world of thrifting. I still wasn’t earning bespoke money, so looking fly on a dime was important to me.

Lastly, my blog was growing in popularity, but I wasn’t getting much feedback on how to improve my style. I heard a few people mention this thing called Style Forum so I figured I should check it out. I’m so glad I did. The WAYWRN thread is one of the few places I’ve found on the internet to get honest and constructive feedback about classic men’s clothing. I’ve seen so many people come through the thread and make huge progress after just a few months. People pay good money for the service that the WAYRWRN thread provides for free.

It’s been a pleasure being a part of the SF community. I try to help out and give advice in the same way that I was helped when I first joined. I hope one day, a former student of mine will stumble on to SF and I can help him prepare for his new job. That would bring things full circle.

Standard work attire circa 2010. Bright colors, pattern mixing and no sport coat.