A visit to Cilento, Naples.


The scene at Cilento.

Cilento is the oldest men’s store in Naples, possibly even all of Italy. Like many good things in Naples, it’s not something you’d easily come across unless you knew what you were looking for. It’s outside of the main shopping districts and close to some government buildings. Nonetheless, it’s quite well known to the locals and a real treat to visit.

The shop was founded in 1780, but it wasn’t until 1820 when it was moved to its present location on via Medina, where it’s currently spread across two buildings. The main shop holds a range of clothing, footwear, and accessories that would satisfy the taste of any businessman or outdoorsman. Here you see mannequins with waxed field jackets and floppy cotton hats. Fine leather bags decorate the tops of old wooden shelves, which in turn hold stacks of neatly stacked, soft, woolen knits. Casual trousers and surcingle belts hang from the same display rack, and next to them is a large, heavy wooden tray that holds a selection of handmade ties. Further back in the store, bolts of English wools are set alongside Italian cottons, both ready to be made into custom suits and shirts for incoming clients.

Well stocked.

There’s also a large selection of shoes. In keeping with the store’s classic taste, these include models by John Lobb, Edward Green, and Alden. There is an emphasis on brogues, chukkas, and derbies, and a surprising number of them are black, given Neapolitan men’s reputation for mainly wearing brown.

Exotic skin in loafers and laceups.

The secondary shop is just outside and a few steps away. This one is a renovated boutique dedicated primarily to ties. The room’s central display table holds a beautiful array of seven-folds, each handmade out of English silk. The designs are conservative and elegant, often using small flower or figured patterns not unlike those I found at Marinella. More ties are displayed in heavy wooden trays at the sides of the room, and under them are innumerable drawers holding sample fabrics for bespoke commissions. Prices start around 100 euros, which seemed typical of the high-end neckwear in this city.

Tie fabric from the 1930s.

To some degree, much of this description sounds like any high-quality classic men’s store in the world, but what really sets Cilento apart is the small studio above the tie shop. Go through the back, up the stairs, disappear through another set of doors and you suddenly feel like time has stopped. Spread through these five or six rooms is a complete private collection of objects from the company’s 232-year history. There are counters and shelves with old shoes and wool fabrics; beautiful early 20th century furniture, paintings, and prints; and original receipts from the family’s previous business in the shipping industry. There are also forgotten artifacts, such as an old trouser press and sample silk swatches for custom ties in the 1930s. In the other rooms, there are vintage women’s scarves, made for Fiat using some of their 1920s advertisement designs. The whole place is a veritable museum of Neapolitan sartorial history, narrated through the original tools, garments, and even cloths of their time. Ugo, the eighth generation Cilento behind the company, tells me they host many parties and social events here. You can watch video of last October’s and November’s events on YouTube.

Tailoring history everywhere you look.

A vintage scarf made for Fiat.

Before I left, Ugo was kind enough to give me a bottle of the company’s wine. Only 450 bottles are made per year, and they’re usually given to the company’s best clients. I went home that night, had a few glasses, and listened to the street noise as I thought about how satisfying the day was. It’s not every day you get to check out a men’s store as old as America itself.

M. Cilento e F.llo dal 1780
Via Medina 61 A-B
80132 Napoli

Tel. +39 081 5513363
Email: [email protected]

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9 thoughts on “A visit to Cilento, Naples.

  1. Sounds like an amazing place. Proud again to be Napolitan, and a place to add to my “must see” list when I go next summer. I especially like the way you guys focus on the history of Naples, and glad this place remains from a time when the Bourbon’s had the Two Sicilies among Europe’s elite.

    • Italy is full of old school haberdasheries that carry a mix of American (Ralph Lauren is prominent) and Italian, brands. Luckily, even the stores in the smaller cities are pretty well stocked, and no one has heard of Tommy Bahama yet

  2. eh? A store as old as America itself? You said the shop was founded in 1780, not in 1492. Did I missread?

  3. Great write up. Thanks for sharing. I am curious about who makes the loafers in the picture entitled exotic skins in loafers and lace ups. They do not appear to be similar to any EG, John Lobb or Alden lasts that I know of. Thanks.

    • Thanks! I’m glad you liked it.

      The third photograph on downwards are all of the Cilento’s private collection. I don’t believe those shoes are for sale; they’re just part of the company’s history (like everything else in those rooms). The shoes that were for sale are in the main store, which is pictured in the first photograph. The second photograph is of the tie shop.


  4. Thanks for the reply, That’s too bad that they don’t sell any of those loafers. I would have loved to purchase several of the pairs in the photo. Regardless, thanks again.

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