Pitti Uomo 94 – Get the Pitti Look

Another summer, another edition of Pitti Uomo. With the excellent coverage by Charlie (@sebastianmcfox) at this summer’s Pitti Uomo 94, we’ve got a Styleforum guy’s eye for style to show us the looks that other street photographers might overlook. Out of the “best of” pics from his time there, I’ve chosen three of dudes outfits I liked in particular, with the intent to find similar products if I wanted to assemble a similar fit for myself.

Aloha shirts—also commonly called Hawaiian shirts—are huge right now, and the Pitti crowd proved no exception to that trend. A lot of the times I’m seeing them with the collar—often a camp collar—worn over the jacket collar and lapel. It’s a look that harkens back to casual ensembles in old Apparel Arts illustrations. Whether you want to wear the collar over the jacket lapel or not, bringing the formality of your jacket or suit down with a Hawaiian print shirt might be a fun way to expand your horizons this summer. Just make sure your tailoring is made from an already somewhat “casual” fabric—think linens, cottons, blends, or textured wool.

Some options for Hawaiian print shirts

Levi’s • Brooks Brothers navy shirt • Brooks Brothers navy shirt 2

[edit: the actual shirt worn in the picture is by the brand Two Palms, available here.]

 

Tan and brown suit options

Drake’s brown linen suit jacket and trousers • Drake’s tan ramie suit jacket and trousers • Berg & Berg tobacco fresco (also comes in tan, which would work well, too)

Camoshita chocolate brown suit separates Jacket and Trousers • Ring Jacket brown balloon jacket


 

This guy’s clearly there to work, but while his clothes are obviously comfortable, I still like the accessible, layered style he’s done here. First of all, he’s wearing canoe mocs and off-white pants (he must read my blogs) in a loose fit that I’m sure helped beat the heat. Since he’s got a camera in hand (the excellent Canon 6D, which I use and highly recommend at the price point), the untucked chambray shirt makes perfect sense because moving around to get the shot, it would probably just come untucked anyhow. The loose olive linen safari jacket makes the fit feel a bit more put together and has the benefit of giving him extra storage for camera gear (and probably hides sweat—a major benefit of wearing an outer layer when it’s warm out that people just don’t think of). And he’s rounded out the fit with a Coke-bezel Rolex GMT-Master and a straw panama hat.

Off-white/stone chinos

Polo • Fujito • Brooks Brothers

 

Canoe mocs / boat shoes

Oak Street bootmakers • Sperry

 

Chambray shirt

RRL • J.Crew • Polo

 

Safari / field jacket options

Anderson and Sheppard • RRL shirt jacket • Sartoria Formosa “Sahariana”

 

Drakes linen field jacket • Ring Jacket 1 • Ring Jacket 2

 

Panama hat • Rolex GMT-Master “coke” bezel

 


This is my favorite photo of Charlie’s from Pitti, which shouldn’t be a surprise to anybody. I like what all four guys are wearing (though white bucks on the second from the right guy wouldn’t have been my choice). Of the four, I love the casual simplicity of Andreas Weinas (far right) the most (though Maxim Lundh, far left, is wearing an Eidos Ciro suit, which I love). Andreas appears to be wearing a grayish-greenish sport coat (looks to be Orazio Luciano to my eyes), pale blue washed chambray shirt, off-white possibly single-pleat summer trousers and a pair of chocolate brown Belgian loafers. It’s exactly the kind of thing I’d wear.

 

Similar jackets

Drakes 1 • Drakes 2 • Suitsupply • Polo • Anglo-Italian green linen

 

Chambray shirts

Suitsupply • Rubinacci • Purple Label • Polo • Anglo-Italian

 

Off-white trousers

Boglioli • Eidos • Rota • Berg & Berg • Suitsupply 1 • Suitsupply 2

 

Belgian loafers

Velasca • Baudoin & Lange

@Baron’s Take on ‘Tailored Contemporary Casual’

baron elevated basics tailored contemporary casual styleforum

It’s rare that long-time member @Baron posts a photo in our WAYWT threads, but in this case the quality makes up for the infrequency. I love outfits like these that blend contemporary brands with a sharper, tailored look; all the more impressive considering the cut of the oversized shirt worn as outerwear. I suppose I could go on, and refer to a style like this as ‘tailored contemporary casual’ in true internet speak, but instead I’ll leave @Baron to tell us more about what he’s wearing:

I bought the shirt and trousers from NMWA. I’m a big fan of the store and their whole aesthetic, especially the Japanese and Korean brands. I mentioned in my WAYWT post that I took inspiration from the recent editorial they published, styled by Antonio from Eidos. That shoot was in my sweet spot. I realized I could do a few of those looks with things already in my closet. Some new, some old or vintage.

I’ve bought several pieces from the store over the years – I try to find things that are versatile and easy to wear in a variety of contexts. Elevated basics, I guess, to use a #menswear cliche. The shirt is a band collar flannel from Document. The fabric is unusually dense and textural for flannel, and the band collar is in a heavy oxford cloth. The pants are from Scye, pleated and slightly cropped, in a slubby olive cotton. I really love the pants – they’re “overbuilt” with a few unusual details. Scye seems to be influenced by traditional English tailoring, from what I can gather online, and you can see that influence in the waistband and fly construction.

The over-shirt is from this season’s Uniqlo U/Lemaire collection. I’ve picked up things from this collection for a few seasons running now. This shirt didn’t catch my eye online, but I saw it in store and I really liked the boxy cut, the heavy flannel and deep indigo color, the interior pockets. The shoes are Loake Camdens. They’re desert boots, more or less, which I’ve been wearing since I was a kid, but they have the structure and welt of a regular English dress shoe.


See the original post here

How to Style an Overshirt, with Erik Mannby

how to style an overshirt styleforum erik mannby overshirt

Overshirts, or ‘shackets’ – as our friend Kyle refers to them –  are often the province of casual-wear. Leave it to Erik Mannby, friend of Styleforum and editor of Plaza Uomo, to make the garment shine in a semi-tailored context. In this case, the added length of the overshirt helps balance out the proportions of the outfit. You might call it cheating, and if we’re being honest it’s about the same length as a short jacket, but as far as I’m aware there’s no universally agreed-upon length for an overshirt, so in my mind it’s fair game. Beneath that, the outfit is a well-considered blend of autumn textures, noticeable largely because of the light colors. Many of us – myself included – gravitate towards darker tones once the days begin to grow shorter, but I like the use of the cream cardigan in particular. Also worth noting is the brown tie which, as the sole point of saturation outside the overshirt, stands out in a good way and looks very nice against the striped shirt. I find it difficult to wear shawl-collar cardigans as a mid-layer, but again, I like the way it’s done here. Erik has really mastered the slim-but-comfortable silhouette, and it’s nice to see layering that doesn’t get bulky.

We haven’t addressed the best accessory, which is of course the puppy. Experts have long known that dogs make an excellent counterpart to a good outfit, and Mr. Mannby has perhaps found the ideal complement to his autumn tones in a dark-haired companion. The sheen of the fur goes well with the overshirt, and the tiny, adorable nose adds some welcome gloss to an otherwise matte ensemble.

 

See the original post here

Embracing The Styleforum Uniform, with @jcmeyer

The Styleforum uniform security guard look styleforum jcmeyer

Ah, the Styleforum Uniform, affectionately (and sometimes mockingly) referred to as “The Security Guard Look.” At its core, it comprises a navy jacket and grey (or neutral) trousers, with the option of rotating a wide range of colors and styles of footwear, neckwear, jacket silhouettes, and other accoutrements. In this case, @jcmeyer has opted for a trouser that tends towards ‘oatmeal’ in coloration, which helps to take away some of the flatness that pure grey can bring to an outfit. It’s a nice touch, and offers a pleasant depth of color. The tie is a good choice as well, as it’s fall-friendly without being costume-y, and finally, take a look at that collar roll! Finished off with a pair of brown suede chukkas, this is one of the most versatile combinations you can have in your wardrobe. All that remains for you to do is nail the fit and finish of each item – easier said then done, but you can see how much of a difference it makes.

Here’s what @jcmeyer has to say about his take on the Styleforum Uniform:

“I probably do some version of the security guard every week or two. It’s especially good for a few reasons: 

  • one, it takes very little brain power to put a successful combo together with this as the base, which is especially nice now that I don’t get to sleep through the night with an infant in the next room
  • two, it’s akin to a grey or navy suit in that it’s basically invisible to people at the office – in other words you could wear it just about every day and no one would really notice
  • and three, it allows for easy, nearly infinite, variations by accommodating a wide range of ties, shoes, and shirts (collar styles too) and it also gives you the option to change the color of the trousers to oatmeal (like in the pic), tan, and even subdued patterns

As for how to make it distinct, I kinda have to dodge the question by the nature of what I said in my second point above. To me the best part about this look is that it isn’t distinct. Fit and the quality of the items/fabric is going to make you feel good about it, and maybe a few people will notice that, consciously or otherwise, but in the end the best thing is that you blend in. For those of us who wear #menswear to work, that’s actually pretty important!”

Now, the relevance of that last point will of course depend on your job and lifestyle, but I’m not sure I completely agree with @jcmeyer’s impression of the results – buddy, if you didn’t want to stand out, you shouldn’t have done such a good job.


How to Style a Corduroy Sportcoat with @thefoxtooth

How to Style a Corduroy Sportcoat styleforum

 

Ok, so maybe you don’t have the hair. Or the mustache. Or the musical skill. Or the cat. However, don’t let that stop you from dressing like you do. This week, @thefoxtooth offers up some fantastic autumn inspiration while showing us how to style a corduroy sportcoat, and also gives us a good reason to consider joining the Streetwear and Denim Wes Anderson Challenge.

Corduroy, like flannel, is a fantastic autumn fabric, and earth tones and neutrals make it easy to work into your wardrobe in both tailored and casual contexts. Here, thefoxtooth is wearing his corduroy sport coat with a pair of washed jeans, although the same jacket could certainly be worn with trousers – perhaps a sage green. Similarly, I can imagine the shoes being traded out for a pair of boots – western in style to go with the guitar, or even a country brogue for a slightly different take on the same outfit.

Anyway, the whole thing is awesome, and I really like that thefoxtooth is using corduroy in a way that doesn’t connote ivy-covered brick buildings. I’m sure we’ll start seeing more corduroy as the weather continues to change, so keep this in the back of your mind when you’re working your pieces into regular rotation.

View the original post here

Autumn Style: Odd Flannel Trousers with @Heldentenor

odd flannel trousers

A pair of odd flannel trousers is one of Styleforum’s universal recommendations, and in addition to featuring heavily in WAYWT, flannel is a staff favorite. It’s not hard to see why: it’s soft, warm, and adds lovely visual texture to any outfit, especially if you choose a fabric – as @Heldentor has – that has enough character to stand up to patterns.

Even so, my favorite part of this outfit is the fit of the sport coat. It’s not often (or ever) I see a combination that I think could be simultaneously referred to as “sharp” and “soft,” but I believe this qualifies. “Rumpled elegance” is a phrase that gets thrown around a lot in discussions of menswear, and when referring to tailored clothing it often seems to be used as an excuse for poor fit. In this case, however, I think it’s an apt descriptor largely due to the weight of the fabric (of both jacket and trousers) and the moderately built-up chest and shoulders of the jacket.

Note how comfortable @Heldentenor appears when seated, and how well the fabric hangs. Not only are the proportions impeccable, but the outfit is wonderfully evocative. Of course, that’s partly due to the quality of the photograph and the setting, but everything – from the crisp blue shirt to the patch pockets to the knit tie and lack of pocket square  – suggests comfort, confidence, and an absence of pretension.

This is a great example of how classics and standbys can be styled in a way that’s far from boring, and a wonderful appetizer for the fun of seasonal dress. Hats of to @Heldentenor, and to the rest us – now we now what to aim for.

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How to Style Country Tweed with Mr. Knightley

style country tweed styleforum

Okay, I’ll admit it: I’m American, and half the reason I like this outfit from Mr. Knightley so much is that all the brands in the original post sound so charmingly British. I’ve been streaming a show over Netflix called “Escape to the Country,” which is kind of like a super chillaxed British version of House Hunters where everyone just wants to buy a cottage in little countryside villages that all end with ‘-shire’, and let me tell you, I could really go for a nice walk through the Dales these days. Imagine it! No cars, no coffee shops, no Macbooks, no jokers on the internet telling you to adjust your sleeve pitch or change the cuffs on your jeans; just you, your binoculars, country boots, maybe a walking stick, and some tweed. Ideally, I’d drop my iPhone in the mud, look down at it, shrug, and move on. The only problem is that every house on the show has a 6-foot ceiling since they were all built in 1308 or whatever.

The other reason that I really like this look is that the colors are fantastic. Regardless of whether or not you’re actually in the countryside, earth tones have always been a go-to for fall, and we all want to look as though we haven’t got a care in the world beyond viewing seasonal foliage and maybe some sheep, especially when the exact opposite is true.

In this case, the overall effect is kept very handsome in part because Mr. Knightley hasn’t country-fied everything in his outfit – a smart shirt, shoes, and trousers tie things together very nicely while serving to keep those earth tones from getting too muddy. All in all, this is a great example of an outfit that features seasonal fabrics, pleated trousers, and even a bit of romance.

You can see Mr. Knightley’s original post here

How to Style White Jeans with @eddiemczee

style white jeans

I think that a pair of cream trousers is one of the most enjoyable and versatile garments to be had in a man’s wardrobe, and I’m likewise a fan of white or cream jeans. That said, some men may struggle with how to style them. It’s understandable, given that denim is a relatively rugged fabric generally associated with workwear, and as white is usually a warm-weather color, not many people are interested in wearing denim when it’s hot out – especially as it’s not known for being breathable.

Fall, then, is really the perfect time to ignore the rule about white after Labor Day (we all know it’s bunk anyway) and pull out your white jeans. That means, however, knowing how to style them. Ignore the advice about heavy boots and denim – nothing looks more awkward than a heavy workboot and white pants. Instead, opt for either a slim, lighter boot, a pair of sneakers, or as @eddiemczee shows here, loafers. His are cuffed, but white jeans usually end up being easier to hem than washed denim, as the stitching is less noticeable and you’re less likely to alter the wash in a funky way. Don’t be afraid to buy white jeans with no or minimal break, as they arguably work better for these purposes than dark jeans do. Just don’t buy white jeans too slim, as not only does it mean you’ll run hotter, but white denim has a very real sausage casing effect when the thighs are too tight.

If you find a comfortable fit, however, you’ll realize just how versatile they can be. As Eddie says:

“The great thing about white jeans is that they can be worn casually and with tailored clothing. In the summer, I like to wear them with a linen button-down and navy blazer or denim jacket. In the winter, I’ll sometimes wear them with a navy sweater and olive field jacket and boots…I wear jeans over trousers when I want my outfit to look more casual. For white jeans, I feel like they’re the perfect middle ground between standard indigo denim and trousers. Plus, if you wear them to a picnic and get some stains on them, you can just throw them in the wash instead of having to dry clean them.”

This is another look that doesn’t need to break the bank, and exemplifies the standard Styleforum philosophy of spending your money on shoes and outerwear. White denim and chambray shirts can be found anywhere, including the Levi’s sale rack. The Land’s End model that Eddie’s wearing has a comfortable rise and leg, however, and is a good choice if you’re planning to wear loafers regularly. While a nicer leather jacket is almost always worth the expense, there are of course models that won’t set you back quite as much. Eddie let me know that his A-1 came from Schott’s ‘Perfecto’ line, from which you can often find steals. Unfortunately, that has since sold out, but if it is ever restocked you can expect to pay a bit less than you would for the Valstar jacket featured below.

Nailing Trad Style with Roycru

nailing trad style styleforum

You may remember Roycru from his member focus, and this week we’re looking to him for some American inspiration. It’s nice to see one of our members nailing trad style, since it’s a look that has grown rarer on Styleforum over the years. And if you, like me, aren’t often found singing the praises of ‘timeless’ style, this tidbit from Roycru should make you take notice: “People often say things like ‘nice vintage clothes’ to me. I always thank them and then mention the clothes I am wearing were new when I got them.”

It’s easy, when battered by advertising on all fronts, to forget that we really don’t need to buy new clothes every season, and that smart purchases can make for a wardrobe that lasts a lifetime. Take, for example, the gunclub sport coat featured above. No, it’s certainly not the universal constant that is the navy blazer, but look at how easily it’s worked into a great outfit that doesn’t look like it came from a cookie cutter. There’s no reason to limit yourself to the most basic of basics; what matters is finding clothing that you know you’ll wear regularly.

I’ll also note that in Roycru’s original WAYWT submission, he’s wearing very accessible brands. In a sea of bespoke Italian suits, high-end denim, and hand-made shirts, sometimes it’s refreshing to be reminded that the key to looking great isn’t necessarily to bankrupt yourself.

 

 

Mixing Menswear Textures with Poszetka

mixing menswear textures

I don’t often feature cell phone pictures, but this week I found myself really enjoying @Poszetka’s mixed textures. Tweed, denim, and denim is a great look, especially for something a bit more casual. Like Peter, I’m not a fan of ties with denim, but in this case I’ll allow it both because hey, do what you like, and because the color and texture of the tie in question works with the rest of the outfit. Indigo and tweed is a combination that always works (two heavy, interesting textures), and a Harris Tweed sport coat is one step more dressed up than a wool hunting jacket while connoting some of the same country-ready style. Grey sport coats can prove surprisingly difficult to work into your wardrobe, and tweed – or other, heavier fabrics – makes the piece a bit more versatile. Tweed works with lots of trouser fabrics, from tightly-woven cotton twills to wool or – as seen here – even denim, and if you remove the tie and put on a pair of boots, this is an outfit that’s perfect for autumn anywhere.

Although we can’t see the shoes in question, I tend to avoid leather-soled shoes (that aren’t boots) with denim. However, since there’s a tie in the mix, I think something like this Vass Budapester on a commando sole from affiliate No Man Walks Alone might work well. Other easy options would be chukkas or heavier (think Tricker’s) brogued shoes or boots. One final note is that, if you’re going to opt for thicker cuffs on your denim, I’d definitely suggest removing the tie, as I find that cuffed denim and a tie tends to either look sloppy or too much like the hipster bartender outfit du jour.