Welcome to Styleforum’s City Maps! Remember that these lists are not definitive. They have been chosen by our editorial staff to reflect what we believe our community will appreciate. We are open to suggestions, and are aware that shops close and re-open regularly. If you have a store suggestion or a comment to share, let us know in the comment section.
Nick with some very nice shoes (although I spy a stray Ugg)
Nick V., owner of esteemed shoe repair outfit B. Nelson Shoes, NYC, knows his stitch. And his welts, and his vamps from his throats. He knows shoes. He takes abused, worn-out kicks and recrafts and resoles them–rehabilitates them. In an ongoing series, Nick will be answering some of my questions to help you treat your footwear better.
Pete asks: What’s the number one most important step a guy can take to keep his shoes looking better, longer?
Nick answers:
Actually, there’s two equally important steps, waterproof/polish and use shoes trees:
WATERPROOF AND POLISH: Apply two light coats of waterproofing to your shoes. Meltonian Water and Stain Protector is an easy product to find and very effective. It’s essential to use a non-silicone waterproof treatment on dress-wear, because silicone is oil-based. The oil can darken leathers. It tends to pick up dust and dirt. It also might not mix well with conditioners and polishes you may want to use in the future.
Polish and condition your shoes regularly.
USE SHOE TREES: Make sure that you have a pair of cedar shoe trees, AND USE THEM REGULARLY! Regardless of whether or not you think your feet perspire… they do. Cedar is a dry wood that absorbs even the slightest moisture. Insert them when the shoes are new and immediately after each wear. This will prevent any moisture from settling into the lining of your shoes. Moisture will cause decay of the leather.
In addition to keeping the liners dry, shoe trees help to maintain the original shape of the shoe. They also reduce the prospect of deep creases forming on the uppers caused by normal wear. The split-toe, claw-back style offers even tension vertically and horizontally. They are easy to install and remove. Leave the trees in the shoes until you are ready to wear them again.
Guest post by Grant Harris of Image Granted.
Image courtesy Rue 14.Rue 14
1803A 14th St. NW
Washington, DC 20009
Owned and operated by a husband and wife tag team, Rue14 has been a fixture of D.C. shopping since it opened in late 2008. Husband Andrew brings his experience as a buyer at Brooks Brothers, while Jiwon relies on her expertise gained from her time working in production for Ralph Lauren. The idea for Rue 14 was to bring the look and feel of a SoHo boutique to D.C. without the NYC price tags. The store carries a progressive lineup of modern offerings including Gant, Happy Socks, Nudie Jeans, Penfield, and Will Leather Goods, among others.
Image courtesy Georgetown Patch.
Sky Valet
1800 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20007
You could be forgiven for passing by Sky Valet’s modest Wisconsin Ave. storefront, which barely hints at the selection of men’s shoes within. Sky carries some of the highest quality, most world-renowned (and most expensive) footwear brands around. Including bluchers, oxfords, monks, loafers, and boots, the lineup includes cordovan models from Alden, Edward Green whole cuts and cap toes; Loake suede oxfords and desert boots; Crockett & Jones double monks and slip ons; and Bowhill & Elliot evening slippers. From American-made to bench-made in Britain, Sky Valet can suit footwear needs from casual to formal. Sky also does a brisk business in shoe repair.
Tari
1525 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC
One of the newest thrift and consignment shops in the District is Tari. Another gem located in the Georgetown neighborhood, Tari offers consignors and consumers a place to find luxury brand names at lower prices. Zegna blazers, Borrelli and Canali shirts, Burberry and Brioni trench coats and vintage Charvet ties are prevalent throughout the store. You’ll have to become a regular to catch the best stuff, but that’s the idea.
Everard’s
1802 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20007
Louis Everard has dressed everyone in D.C. from presidents to business owners, to bloggers. Everard’s has two locations in the District but the most recognized is the Georgetown location, just a couple doors up from Sky Valet. Louis sells American heritage suiting brands such as Hickey Freeman, but also carries the best of non-U.S. brands, like Marcoliani socks, Tino Cosma ties, and Martegani shoes. Everard’s prides itself on its made to measure service and will gladly create something to your personal taste.
Monita
1961 Chain Bridge Rd.
Mclean, VA 22102
Monita Italian Leather is a shoe shop and walk-in made-to-order footwear boutique. The Tysons Corner shop is the only boutique located in a residential shopping mall on our list. Monita offers its customers ready-to-wear as well as custom footwear from several of a dozen little known, but well-established Italian brands the average American consumer may not be familiar with (like Doucal’s and Maurizi). Customers have manyoptions from suede oxfords to calfskin Beatle boots to penny loafers. For MTO, the customer’s measurements are taken on site and then are allowed to select from upwards of 50 different shoe styles including leathers, brogueing, laces, etc. Weeks later you’ll enjoy a hand-lasted, hand-finished pair of custom shoes.
Other worthwhile stops:
J. Press
1801 L St. NW
Washington, DC 20036
The venerable trad-ing post only has four locations, so it’s always worth a stop for university stripe OCBDs (with flap pocket), ribbon belts, and sack jackets that remain much same as they were 30 years ago or more (some of the salesmen are the same, too, and can share some good stories).
Field English Custom Tailors
2134 Wisconsin Ave NW
Washington, DC 20007
As close as D.C. comes to Savile Row, Field Tailors has been creating bespoke men’s clothing for decades. William Field II took over the business from his father a few years ago and still offers English cut suits in fabrics from Dormeuil and others. Appointments preferred.
Guest post by Grant Harris of Image Granted.
Streets of Georgetown is the local outpost of Hart Schaffner Marx's dandy chain.
Streets of Georgetown
1254 Wisconsin Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20007
When Joseph Abboud sold his namesake label to become chief designer for HMX Group, the largest manufacturer of tailored menswear in the country, he worked with HMX CEO Doug Williams to open Streets concept stores in select cities. The Streets concept capitalizes on major cities’ top-drawer shopping neighborhoods or streets—in DC’s case, Georgetown. The boutique is stocked with some of the elder statesmen of American suiting, including Hickey Freeman and Hart Schaffner Marx, which is celebrating its 125th anniversary this year. Streets offers off-the-rack suiting as well as a truly tailored experience with made-to-measure services offering several hundred fabric choices. Bobby Jones, Coppley, Palm Beach, Austin Reed, and Filson round out suiting, casual, and sportswear offerings.
Federal
2216 14th St. NW
Washington, DC 20009
A recent addition to the DC shopping scene, Federal may sound like it caters to the politicians and lobbyists of Washington, but it’s far from what you might think. Located on 14th St. corridor, it’s part of a restructured and converted skate shop. Its street-oriented history is reflected in on-trend offerings from a range of heritage-based Americana and workwear lines like Tellason, Pendleton, Red Wing, Danner, Dickies, Filson, Converse, Clarks, Herschel Supply, and others. D.C. has a rep for being short on this sort of gear and Federal is changing that.
The good doctor.
Dr. K’s Vintage
1534 U St. NW
Washington, DC 20009
Dr. K’s is a vintage shop on the U street corridor that stocks the best edited stock of vintage men’s apparel in the city—leather jackets, militaria, cowboy boots, varsity jackets, and original cinchback denim from Levi’s. A native of Thailand, Dr. K has brought some of his personal collection to the shop, and can be seen showing off his latest finds from Brimfield or the Rose Bowl or more clandestine sources. Dr. K is often open late, but keeps strange hours so it’s best to call ahead.
Sette Neckwear
Suite 300
1701 Pennsylvania Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20006
Sette means “seven” in Italian. Given how much attention is given to Neapolitan menswear, it’s a breath of fresh air to have the presence of Sette in D.C. A collaboration between a former Robert Talbott designer and a White House staffer, Sette offers a lineup of made-in-Italy woven or printed silk ties for power players inside the beltway and beyond. Sette seven folds come in a versatile 3-inch width and are constructed with the exacting standards of old world Italian tie makers. Silks are sourced from the hills of Como, then folded, slip stitched and packaged. Each tie is a unique creation and is part of a limited run of no more than 21. Each is individually numbered, and owners can register them online with Sette. Sette ties don’t come cheap, but the customer service, presentation, and product are arguably worth it.
Other worthwhile stops:
Commonwealth
1781 Florida Ave. NW
Washington, DC 20009
Sharing an address with Stüssy, Commonwealth is D.C.’s outpost of the Virginia Beach streetwear king. Source for limited edition footwear, high-end hype like Maiden Noir, and wildcards like Gitman Vintage and Creep by Hiroshi Awai.
Hugh and Crye
3212 O St. NW #5 (between Potomac and Wisconsin)
Washington, DC 20007
DC-based brands fits shirts differently–by body type rather than measurements. Trim, darted cuts and strong colors and patterns dominate. Their bright Georgetown space is shop, laboratory, stockroom, and office all in one.
More recommendations to come in part II.
Our first look at men’s shopping in Chicago covered the venerable Oxxford Clothes, hatmaker Optimo and others. Part two has the goods on a #menswear specialist and some more old-school purveyors.
Haberdash
607 N. State St.
312-624-8551
[email protected]
One of a bunch of new haberdashers that have emerged onto the scene in the last few years. I’ve listed their newer store, since it’s a little closer to the rest of the things on this list, but their Old Town location was ahead of the curve, opening its doors in 2005. If you’re a hardcore #menswear guy, this is going to be Mecca for you. Alden, 3Sixteen, Filson, Gant, LBM 1911, Steven Alan, and Woolrich are just a few of the oft-lusted-after brands they stock. There is also EDC shop, next door to the location listed above, which features exclusively footwear, accessories, and grooming products. All in all, a can’t-miss if you’re in town for a short stay.
Haberdash's State Street digs.
Jack Spade
47 E. Oak St.
312-915-0315
Literally just downstairs from Shrine, it would be foolish not to pop in if you’re already on Oak Street. Jack Spade has only a handfulof stores, most on the East Coast, and offers a great selection of functional basics that are classic without being humdrum. The briefcases and messenger bags are a personal favorite of mine. Plus the people who work here are great and really love the brand. You don’t feel like they’re there to get a paycheck but to share something they love with anyone who will listen. And that’s what I’m looking for in retail.
Paul Stuart
107 E. Oak St.
312-640-2650
One of the most elegant mens stores you’ll find anywhere. The store is cozy (small, but in a good way), the guys who work there are extremely stylish for the most part, and I unabashedly think Paul Stuart always has some great stuff. Their giant selection of silk knit ties in a reasonable width, many colors with the option of woven spots, are a standby for me, as are the other colorful accessories. Tip—their travel umbrellas are a great buy if you need something that looks good but fits in a carry-on bag. There is also a smaller Paul Stuart on LaSalle, but unless you just want to pop in after a visit to the Art Institute, I recommend going to Oak Street.
Ralph Lauren
750 Michigan Ave.
312-280-1655
Sure, you can buy Ralph Lauren stuff pretty much anywhere in the world, including your couch, but his grand stores are undeniably awesome. This store is actually larger than any of the New York stores, features more than one palatial staircase, all the usual wood paneling and oil paintings, as well as a top-notch selection of vintage goods. If you’ve been hunting for a 50-year-old Patek in near-perfect condition, look no further. Also next door is the the RL Restaurant, my favorite re-fueling spot in this part of Chicago. It lacks the commercial-extortion feel of most restaurants in the Michigan Ave. area, instead feeling like a club in the 1920s. Service is out of this world, rivaled only by the food.
Chicago is a pretty classic city. Not classic like London, with its tailoring trade and aristocratic propriety. And not like Florence, where every cobblestone and sport coat is imbued with history and tradition. It’s classic in a way that’s equal parts rugged Americana and serious business.
At the turn of the twentieth century, Chicago was at the heart of the American garment trade, and more specifically, the American ready-to-wear menswear explosion. It was not long ago that men switched over to ready made clothes, and Chicago was a catalyst for that switch—urban legends claim one in three garments in the U.S. passed through Chicago.
But Chicago’s history doesn’t weigh it down. Horween Leather (founded 1905) and Oxxford Clothes (1906) sit alongside newcomers like Haberdash and Optimo Hats. Chicago’s merchants seem to share a passion for authenticity and giving customers an experience along with a product. Whether it’s a custom-fitted hat from Optimo or a chat about tie patterns with the gents at Shrine Haberdashers, you’re getting service and substance for your money.
Below is a brief guide to what Chicago has to offer the guy looking for the best. And often the best he can’t get anywhere else.
Oxxford Clothes
1220 W Van Buren St. #7
312-829-3600
So this isn’t a store per se, though you can give them a call and set up made-to-measure appointments here. Oxxford produces arguably the finest factory-made suits around—on par with anything from the better-known Kiton, Attolini, etc. Honestly, there is more hand-work in an Oxxford suit than in some bespoke suits, although it’s not without its cost. If you’re a tailoring nut, it’s worth giving them a call and asking if you can drop by to check things out.
Chris Despos
34 E. Oak St. #3
312-944-8396
[email protected]
Chicago used to have a plethora of great bespoke options. It was just as good, if not better than, New York when it came to fine tailoring. But things have changed a little in the last two decades. As far as I know, Chris is the only guy producing a real bespoke suit to Savile Row level standards in Chicago. This includes cutting a paper pattern for each client, followed by as many fittings as it takes to get things perfect (generally three-ish for a first suit). He is making me a suit right now, and you can follow the process on Simply Refined to take a look and see if you think it might be for you.
Rack city at Despos.
Optimo Hats
320 S. Dearborn
312-922-2999
[email protected]
Optimo is one of the few great hat stores left, not in this country, but in the world. If you want, they can bust out the torture-device-esque hat measuring tools and build you something from the ground up, custom fitted to you alone. Or you can always go for an off-the-shelf staple. The cost is not low, but like a suit or great pair of shoes a proper hat is made to last a lifetime. I’ve provided their downtown location, but there is also a Southside location for those who would prefer to stay out of the main shopping district.
Shrine Haberdashers
47 E Oak St
312-675-2105
[email protected]
This is the other must-see haberdashery in Chicago. Nestled on the second floor of an Oak Street townhouse, Shrine is a cool mix of off-beat brands you might not have heard of and tried-and-true favorites like Drake’s and WANT. Ok, so the over-sized rings might not be my thing, but the store really represents the personalities of the guys who run the show. Stop in, have a chat about clothes, and maybe pick up something that no one else back home will have seen before. These guys celebrated their first anniversary in November, and here’s wishing them a good sophomore year.
Oak Street Bootmakers
630-664-6209
[email protected]
No storefront here. But the shoes are all designed in Chicago by a second-generation cobbler, made out of Horween’s Chromexcel leather, and feature full welts that allow your shoes to be resoled. Heads and shoulders above the other camp mocs and work boots you find in most stores. Prices are competitive. Order online or give them a call if you need to chat about styles, stock, or anything else.
Part II deals with more classics and more newcomers.
Stephen Pulvirent also writes at his blog, Simply Refined.
