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The Tailors’ Thread

What it Means to Be “Made in Italy”

My Italian has gotten good enough that I can understand pretty much everything the locals say to me. The only words I consistently miss are the English words that they insert into conversation like french fries stuck in a spaghetti carbonara. WTF is “Nike” when it rhymes with “hike”? “Levi’s” when it rhymes with “heavies”? “Ee

Going Bespoke in Palermo, Sicily

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There are a million and one places in the world to visit, each with its own unique beauty. But I keep finding myself going back to Sicily. Perhaps it’s because it reminds me so much of my home state of California: a semi-arid terrain with an incredibly varied landscape full of jaw-dropping natural beauty across

An Overview of Suit Silhouettes by Era

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One of the most important things that I’ve learned in my menswear journey, is that every era has a specific silhouette.  Vintage, for most people, is all encompassing, but there really is a distinct style and shape for suits that sets the 1930’s apart from the 1940’s, and the 1920’s from the 1960’s. One of

Fall’s Best Transitional Fabrics

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The Autumn Equinox for 2017 in the northern hemisphere fell on Friday, September 22, and menswear aficionados couldn’t be happier – shorter days and cooler temperatures allow for heavier fabrics, which generally drape and tailor better. My first real experience with autumn was in ’95, after suffering an intolerably muggy summer in the Hudson Valley

Grenadine Fabric: History, Tradition, and Ties

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There is no question that grenadine ties have become a staple in many wardrobes: they brighten up a dull outfit with their particular texture, they rarely collide with other patterns, and they are oftentimes an excellent option when you’re unsure about the accessory to choose. But what exactly is grenadine? First of all, grenadine is

How Much Does a Quality Suit Cost?

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How Much Does Quality Cost? In one form or another, this question turns up every couple of days on the forum: “I’m looking for a quality suit/shirt/shoe/pair of underwear.  How much should I spend?” Before answering this question, it’s best to specify what “quality” is. Quality is not fit; nor is it style.  Assuming you have a

Summer Fabrics for Staying Cool

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Summer finally arrived last week in San Francisco, but while the rest of the Bay is baking, the city peaked in the mid-70s, which means you can still wear a jacket without breaking a sweat.  Still, you’ll want to be comfortable, and thankfully there are certain fabrics that perform well when the mercury rises.  Here’s

The Anatomy of a Formal Shirt

Alexander Kabbaz is a Alexander Kabbaz is a custom shirt maker, clothier, and haberdasher. his article originally appeared on and has been adapted and edited for the Styleforum Journal. Over the past 40 years of dressing ladies and gentlemen, we’ve found the majority of formal events take place in the Spring, with April/May/June being the

A Guide to How Trousers Should Fit

Embdeddded photos: Peter Zottolo All slideshow photos: Dylan & Son After last week’s article, I received a couple PMs, DMs, and emails from various people asking how trousers should fit.  The short answer is that they should lay straight down and fit comfortably. The long answer is, well, longer. Getting trousers to fit correctly is not