By day 3 everything was already starting to slow down at the fair. Andreas, Jussi, Anu and I looked through a couple of booths, but didn’t really find anything that piqued our interest. We met some friends outside at the Pitti square, but decided that we were pretty much through with the fair for this time.
Later on, Charley joined me and we headed towards restaurant Dino, where we met up with a well selected group of people for the Styleforum dinner. Jasper (Synthese) and Arianna (PR for SF) had really done a great job putting this together, and it all paid off in a fantastic way when Butler once more managed to entertain an entire restaurant by telling questionable jokes and performing magic tricks.
The last night went on for way too long. We met Benedikt, who showed us the way to a bar that is a sort of alternative for Pitti visitors. It’s the exact opposite of Gilli, called The Fiddler’s Elbow, and is best described as a dive bar. We had a good time though, and didn’t get back to our apartment until 4 in the morning.
The next morning, it finally started to dawn at us that getting no sleep for an entire week really takes its toll. It was not eased by heavy delays in flight traffic. When I finally arrived in Stockholm late on Friday evening I had never been happier seeing a bed.
Now for the actual fair, i.e. the reason we go there:
The clothes, the shoes, the accessories were more interesting this time around in my opinion. We’ve seen the colour schemes and cuts go towards a more “classic” style the last couple of years (classic in this context meaning a sort of median of men’s classic fashions the past century, somewhere right in-between the extremes). One of the things about classic menswear that I really appreciate is that the changes are slow, therefore you actually have to look hard for any changes from season to season. But, as I’ve noted earlier years, slow doesn’t equate stagnant. When I write about trends here, you should probably note that I’m not covering what the major fashion houses are showing, since my main focus at Pitti is to see what the more classic makers are doing, whether we’re talking about suits or classic workwear.
One thing I noted was that brown is quite popular in jackets and suits. In fact I don’t think I’ve ever seen so much brown on brown combinations any earlier years at Pitti. The workwear and casual influence is still big on the classic menswear scene. There are a lot of jackets with shooting pockets, suits in casual materials and newsboy caps being showcased, both inside the booths and out in the Pitti square. The 70’sinfluence is still a thing, but not egregiously so, there aren’t any bell bottom trousers at least.
There is also a trend towards more structure in jackets. The completely unlined jackets are still popular, but I saw more suits with heavier canvassing and slightly more marked shoulders this year. The lapels are wide and maybe moving towards the extreme in that sense, but the gorges seem to be moving down towards a more classic height. Trousers are high waisted, and pleats are even more common than earlier years, so are wider legs. Black shoes were also more prevalent.
All in all, one of the most enjoyable Pitti expediencies so far, both sartorially and socially.
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