About Jasper Lipton

Jasper likes indigo, flight jackets, and boots - but he likes his dogs even more. He dreams of buried cities and the spaces between the stars.

5 Stand-Out Takes on the White Court Shoe

Posted on October 21, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

The white court shoe has taken its place atop the throne of the sneaker world following the rise of the Stan Smith. The latter is now (still!) found on the feet of half the people at any trade show, with only mild competition from Adidas’ shell-toe and three stripe options. But if you’re looking for a simple, good-looking sneaker, there are many brands that offer pleasing design – and, let’s face it, a price that makes Common Projects Achilles look like a joke. Here are 5 white court shoes that you can wear all through the winter – and for a long time to come.

Greats “Royale”
Photo: Greats

Luxury court shoes are nothing new, but we all know that Common Projects are no longer the must-have they once were. Greats’ take on the classic design is a little bulkier, a little cushier, and little less ubiquitous (and who doesn’t enjoy a bit of rarity with their sneakers?). The suede models are stand-outs, and will look great with worn-in raw denim or even casually-worn trousers. And at 1/4 the price of CP’s, what’s not to like?119$, Greats.com
Adidas Stan Smith Primeknit OG pk
Photo: SSENSE

What would a list of tennies be without at least one variation on the original? Adidas has updated its classic Stan Smith silhouette with a primeknit upper that offers breathable comfort and keeps you from looking like the rest of the fashion-obsessed sneakerheads out there. And since we’ve reached – and passed – peak Stan Smith saturation, a slight re-config means that you can wear these without feeling self-conscious. Although you can find Primeknit Stans at several retailers, this OG-pack version has a different knit and a slightly lower profile than the all-leather model, but pairs equally well with denim or slim black trousers (yeah, yeah – we see you, fashion week attendees).

Best part? The added airflow means your feet will stink less.

130$, ssense.com
Common Projects Court Low
Photo: Need Supply

Instead of going for the by now ubiquitous Achilles, spend those hard-earned dollars on the CP Court Low instead. We’re big on suede sneakers for a bit of added character, and this even-more-minimal take on the tennis shoe is perfect for fall. Stack your jeans on top of the low cuff, roll ’em up, or even wear a pair of (gasp!) shorts. Common Projects is really the original luxe sneaker brand, and they’ve stayed relevant for a reason.

435$, NeedSupply.com
Ann Demeulemeester Suede Low-Top
Photo: FWRD

While not exactly a court shoe (they’re more of a take on the venerable Converse), these suede low-tops nonetheless offer a great alternative to your standard tennis shoe. They’re much more versatile than the brand’s die-hard fans would have you believe, and are equally at home with head-to-toe Ann D. or a rolled-up pair of Engineered Garments BDU pants. The suede upper takes on added character with wear, and well-read forumites will know to ask their cobbler about adding a Vibram (or other rubber) outsole for increased longevity and grip. At this point, they’re a modern classic.

830$, fwrd.com
Filling Pieces “Low Top Tabs White”
Photo: Filling Pieces

Looking for a little more flash from your court shoe? Streetwear brand Filling Pieces could be right up your alley. This take on their classic Tabs low top adds a gum sole and toe-cap perforation for a does of athletic style. Prices, while firmly upmarket, aren’t Givenchy-high, which means you’ll have some cash left over for a fancy pair of sweatpants. Long live athleisure!

EUR240, Fillingpieces.com

Good Buy: 1ST PAT–RN Chore Jacket

Posted on October 15, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

I’ve been meaning to pick up a second chore jacket for a while now, but still haven’t found the perfect vintage example to call my own. I really like this 1ST PAT-RN chore jacket, called the “Officina.” I’ve been following the brand for a while now, and although I haven’t taken the plunge and purchased anything yet, I’m almost always tempted but everything they make. The styling of the Officina is a little more trim and militaristic, which makes the silhouette a bit sharper than a vintage version, or even some of the heavy, workwear-styled jackets you can find these days. This one sports a very handy interior pocket (many chore jackets don’t), and the stitched-in back belt is a nice touch. It’s also trimmed with visible selvage on the seams, which makes the construction look pleasantly clean.

I quite like these unlined, light jackets. They’re really versatile – you can wear them as a light outer layer, put them over a sweater, or even use them as a mid-layer under a coat or a vest. And they lend themselves to styling of all kinds: denim is easy, but olive trousers look great, as do sharp black trousers. Footwear is equally simple – as long as you’re not wearing sharp, leather-soled shoes, you’re probably good. I’d wear this one with either lightweight chukkas (or your favorite boots), or maybe some Birkenstocks for lounging around. I admit I’m a little sick of the ultra-clean CP achilles-with-chore-jacket look, but it’s certainly an option.

The 1ST PAT-RN version is more expensive than a lot of its competitors, but I think it’s worth it – especially if you’re into high-quality construction. The extra details definitely set it apart, the sharper silhouette lends itself to more styling options, and for whatever it’s worth you don’t run as much of a risk of looking like a slave to current trends.

Our friends over at Standard and Strange carry the full line, which I encourage you to check out.

1ST PAT-RN “Officina” chore jacket, $425 at Standard & Strange

Denver’s Best Menswear Stores

Posted on October 13, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

Denver is an interesting city in a number of ways. While plenty of local writers are happy to talk up the city’s cultural scene, I’ll be the first to say that Colorado’s capital isn’t a menswear (or cultural) mecca in the way America’s coastal cities are. It’s been an “Up-and-coming” spot for as long as I can remember, and it’s my opinion that it still hasn’t quite arrived yet.

However, with tens of thousands of people moving to Colorado every year, there’s certainly a new interest in menswear that didn’t exist ten years ago. While most of the Denver metro area skews towards offering solid, utility-oriented outdoor clothing (The North Face, Mont Bell, and Salomon are what you’ll see most people wearing – along with a lot of yoga clothing), there are a handful of local stores that do offer garments for the discerning enthusiast. Denver’s options range from skater-focused streetwear to contemporary Italian design to high-end tailored clothing. Here are my picks for Denver’s best menswear stores, with an eye on finding something for everyone.

Andrisen Morton
High-end tailored clothing

The first stop on our list, Andrisen Morton, is the store to visit if you’re interested in tailored clothing. They stock an impressive number of well-regarded tailored brands, such as Kiton, Caruso, Brioni, Canali, and Cucinelli, and they even range into accessories from Tom Ford and Shinola. If there’s one department in which they’re lacking it’s footwear, as Alden is, the last time I checked, the only quality shoe brand on the shelves.

The buys, while extensive, aren’t necessarily adventurous, instead focusing on a particular look that’s there to attract Denver’s growing middle class, fueled by the tech and finance industries. Denver remains a more conservative environment than California, but hidden in among the office-ready suits and separates are enough characterful brands and pieces to make a trip well worth your time.

If you’re looking for a dinner jacket in burgundy velvet, or an unlined casual blazer to wear out the door, Andrisen morton is your best stop. The store is impressively large, and in addition to what’s on the shelves they offer an array of fabric swatch books for you to peruse. There isn’t much in the way of casual or streetwear, but then again, that’s not why you came, is it?

Steadbrook
Minimal urban workwear

Clean workwear is the bread-and-butter of Steadbrook’s offerings. This store, which is half coffee-space and half showroom, is a poster child of Denver’s post-hipster culture. Located near Washington Park in the Baker neighborhood, Steadbrook rubs shoulders with tattoo parlors and bars. The space itself is brightly lit and minimal, with a heavy does of content curation, but Steadbrook nonetheless stocks a respectable selection of Styleforum-approved streetwear brands.

Less loud and youthful than the Denver shops offering Billionaire Boys Club and walls of high-top sneakers, Steadbrook is the purveyor of the Denver uniform: clean, raw denim, sleek workwear, and un-fussy footwear. Japan Blue, Momotaro, and 3Sixteen denim sits alongside clothing from forum standbys such as Apolis, Reigning Champ, Norse Projects, and Our Legacy. Simple offerings from Vans and Adidas remind the visitor that this is a streetwear destination, while accessories from Miansai and a small selection of grooming supplies reinforce the coffee-shop/lifestyle aspect of the store. There are even a handful of skateboards for you to check out, assuming you didn’t ride your fixie.

SuitSupply
Affordable, trendy tailored clothing

By now, SuitSupply is probably a familiar name to any forum member, but the Dutch brand’s decision to open an outpost in Cherry Creek suggests that the Denver market is there to support it. It certainly speaks to the area’s tastes at the moment: easy, affordable suiting that’s well-made enough to stand up to curiosity and criticism, and stylish enough to keep wearers from feeling like office drones. SuitSupply offers a rotating, seasonal selection of basic and less-basic suits and separates, and the fact that the products never go on sale (except for a twice-yearly seasonal inventory purge) hasn’t stopped #menswear aficionados from stocking up on blazers for every day of the week.

The Denver location is one of the fastest-growing Suit Supply stores in the country, which is surprising in a state whose “house style” tends to be “I found it at the REI garage sale.” The staff is friendly, the building is nice, and if you’re in search of something particular on a budget – or something fun – there’s a good chance SuitSupply will have you covered. It’s become a go-to shop for the city, and caters to young men starting out on their careers, hobbyists with an interest in clothing, and even Denver’s professional athletes, many of whom are devoted customers. Besides, it’s right next to the first and third stops on our list.

Lawrence Covell
Contemporary men’s and women’s design

Lawrence Covell is my pick for the most interesting menswear store in the Denver area. First and foremost, the women’s selection is at least as nice as the men’s, so if you’re bringing a female friend along she’ll have something to do. It’s located essentially across the street from Andrisen Morton and around the corner for Suit Supply, but does cater to a slightly different customer – one that’s less conservative and perhaps more willing to browse and experiment.

Although Lawrence Covell has some real personality, the racks and shelves are still stocked with a mix of contemporary and classic brands that leans towards conservative. If you can look past the required offerings (there’s many a chino to be found alongside the Citizens of Humanity denim), the buys offer a surprising amount of character. It helps that the store itself is comfortable, well-lit and airy. The women’s section in particular has some gems, showcasing both classic (and very luxurious) pieces from Brunello Cucinelli and Carven alongside Dries Van Noten and even more street-driven buys from Rag and Bone and Public School.

For the men, Caruso, Bontoni, and Luciano Barbera are stocked alongside Eidos Napoli and Eleventy, while offerings from Oliver Spencer, Barena Venezia, and Gitman Vintage round out the more casual pieces. A respectable selection of Alden and Common Projects shoes isn’t exactly groundbreaking, but it does mesh well with what’s shown on the shop floor. The look is clean and trim, but largely unfussy and not as rigid as what you might find at Andrisen Morton – an appealing blend.

Sashiko Fabric: The Elegant Heavyweight

Posted on October 12, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

“Sashiko” is translated from the Japanese as “little stabs,” and refers to a traditional form of needlework often used for decorative mending. The technique gained emerged within Japanese peasant classes in the mid-1800’s as a way to increase the longevity of the heavily-used hemp and cotton garments they relied on. Running stitches were used to decorate as well as reinforce layers of fabric, most of which were cut from older garments or scraps and reused in a quilting technique called boro, or “tattered rags;” at least one example of which is now a necessary staple in every Styleforum member’s closet

Sashiko fabric, however, is a much more recent development (and is the product, almost universally, of mechanical looms). It refers to a tightly-woven cotton fabric reinforced with a equally tight running stitch of embroidery-weight thread that imitates traditional sashiko needlework.

The weaving technique ensures that objects made from sashiko fabric will be able to take a beating – both literal and figurative. Sashiko gi are the traditional garb for aikido, judo and kendo practitioners, and act as an added layer of (light) protection for the wearer. Although many garments used for gi are bleached and left white, sashiko fabrics are also commonly dyed in indigo. Folk wisdom holds that naturally-derived indigo is an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial agent (and that it keeps snakes away). I’ve yet to see clinical proof, but being covered in blue dye can’t hurt. Right?

Although they come in various weights, most sashiko fabrics are heavy and utilitarian, and its use in contemporary garments generally reflects that fact. Outerwear and the occasional heavy pant are where you’ll most often find it, and a handful of companies offer street clothing made from the hard-wearing fabric.

It’s a characterful fabric to be sure. Not only is the texture very distinctive, but the fade patterns (oh, yes – we must talk about those) result in beautiful contrast after some heavy wear. But more than that, one of the things that I like the most about the sashiko chesterfield I own (it’s from Blue Blue Japan) is that it’s a good stand-in for a leather jacket. Like a hide, it’s tough at first, but with use will soften up and mold to your body. It’s not as restrictive, either, which depending on who you are I suppose could be either a good or a bad thing. Plus, you can wash sashiko garments in cold water the way you would a pair of denim. Here’s how mine looks after a couple of years of wear:

Speaking of Blue Blue Japan, they’re a favorite of the Styleforum editorial team (and carried at affiliate No Man Walks Alone), and they offer several sashiko garments, including chesterfields and a great hunting jacket for this season (you can read about our visit to their showroom here). So does Gaijin Made, another Seilin brand. Kapital makes a range of sashiko-reinforced denim that they refer to as the “Century” line. Luxire, another Styleforum affiliate, now offers a sashiko jacket as well. Newer brands, such as Nine Lives, attempt to marry American heritage with Japanese workwear traditions, which results in clothing such as a sashiko-gusseted yak leather rider’s jacket.

The point is that, if you’re interested in giving sashiko a shot, there’s probably a piece of clothing out there that will appeal to you, whether it’s one of Blue Blue Japan’s more elegant pieces, or a rock ‘n roll indigo leather from Nine Lives.

: BBJ’s hunting jacket at No Man Walks Alone

: Nine Lives’ Yak Rider

: Kapital “Century” Denim

One final note is that most sashiko garments, by virtue of the fabric weight and thickness, are relatively heavy and structured. They’re also often backed with another layer of cotton canvas, so don’t expect a great deal of “drape.” Instead, you get some nice creasing effects that really come to life as you wear the garment in. Do note that the weight of these fabrics varies depending on what the maker has in mind, so I recommend inquiring with a retailer before you buy. For example, Blue Blue Japan is offering a lighter-weight sashiko fabric this year that appears as a beautiful women’s robe-style overcoat, and some of Gaijin Made’s outerwear is designed to be lightweight.

Regardless of the garment, sashiko fabric is made to last. It’s abrasion-resistant, and despite being a cotton weave it’s tight and thick enough to use as a winter layer in many climates, especially when worn on top of a heavy knit. If you’d like to make a sashiko garment part of your wardrobe – and I recommend it – expect it to last a long time. And wear it hard, because that’s the point.

Five Aging Menswear Trends That Need to Die

Posted on October 10, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

Although all of us at Styleforum are as pleased as punch with the explosion of interest in men’s clothing and fashion that has accompanied the new millennium, there have been a few aging menswear trends that made our teeth hurt when they were new and aren’t treating us any better now. Some of them are still clinging to life, and that needs to stop. The usual Styleforum disclaimers apply: it is, of course, possible to embrace the entire list below and look great. Theoretically. In a parallel universe, maybe. If you’re still hanging on to all of these, I’m sorry. For you.

Wooden Bead BraceletsYou know what we’re talking about. For a good five years, iGents the world over had these bracelets stacked halfway up one or both arms (and, we assume, sock-less legs as well). As an idea, we fully support men’s jewelry – and even the odd bead. But they have become the grown man’s elastic band bracelet; the ideal way to show how cultured and worldly you are, collected without thought or intention. Thankfully, this trend has almost killed itself off, but to everyone still in denial: please. Let it die.
“Fun” SocksThey don’t make you more interesting. They don’t show your personality. If you honest-to-god love your bright pink argyle, fish scale, or curled-mustache socks, we can’t stop you. But no one’s going to find you more daring, more exciting, or any bolder than you would be if you were sporting a sock that didn’t suggest you also sleep in a race car bed (Disclaimer: if you sleep in a race car bed, that’s awesome and please send us photos).
Contrast ButtonholesWe’re not sure who thought this up or why. Perhaps men were having trouble finding their buttonholes, hence reduced to running around in a state of unbuttoned panic. Perhaps internet MTM companies needed a thousandth feature to grant a $1 upcharge. Or perhaps, in an era of endless customization, men in search of ways to make themselves stand out thought that red thread around a white buttonhole was the best way to show off their sartorial chops. The absolute worst offenders are contrasting buttonholes combined with busily-patterned shirts, most of which have extra-tall power collars and contrasting cuffs. Most egregiously, these made their way onto the cuffs and lapels of sport coats, which…sorry, I was too busy retching to finish that sentence. Just Say No.
Contrasting Cuff Dress Shirts

I’m not sure how to feel about these. On the face of it, a shirt (or jacket) that hides a special fabric reserved only for the wearer is perhaps the most Styleforumish of affectations, and one that I cannot ideologically oppose. However, when contrast cuffs are combined with the in-your-face stripes and collars (also contrasting on the underside) of Jermyn-inspired clubwear, men the world over are done a disservice. This is the ultimate boss form of the “going-out shirt,” and should be avoided at all costs. There’s no better way to say “Hi! I’m probably an asshole.”

Addendum: Contrast Anything, Come to Think of It

Yellow shoelaces? No. Purple collar tips? Please. If it seems like a gimmick, it probably is – and a gimmick does not a well-dressed man make.
Teensy-tiny ties with tie clipsI blame Mad Men, and by extension, JCrew. For a couple of years there, every other man on the street had declared himself dapper, a man’s man, by virtue of jacket lapels skinny as a pinky finger, a tie as narrow as a pencil, and to top it off – a tie clip (need we mention the ubiquitous gingham shirt?). Okay, I may be conflating a few different trends there, but they definitely went hand-in-hand, and were usually found beneath thick-framed retro spectacles. It’s one thing to bring the 60’s back, it’s another to use your lemming powers for the sake of looking like an anonymous office drone. It’s not minimalism, people. It’s just bad.
There’s a lot to be said for a tie that doesn’t make you look like you’re performing at a high school rock show, but to be fair, this has deep, deep roots. It reappeared in the mainstream alongside the the geek-chic look of the early 2000’s (we’ve talked about this before), but it’s not Joe Craft-Sixpack who’s to blame for the resurgence of the skinny-tie-and-bar. After all, who doesn’t want to look like Mick Jagger in his younger days? Sadly, at this point, the romance has become mundane. We must insist that your ties – and your lapels – increase to a respectable width. And please – leave the tie clip at home.

There you have it: five of the most egregious aging menswear trends that really, desperately need to be buried. Does this list mean you’re not allowed to embrace color or personality? Of course not. It means that even when you’re dressing with the times, good taste should govern your stylistic decisions. Because “more, more, more” has never been a particularly effective guiding philosophy, and that extends to clothing.

Knit Ties and How to Wear Them

Posted on October 9, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

The knit tie is a strange but wonderful beast. It is by no means a wardrobe staple, but neither is it associated with frivolity. In the global circles of menswear lovers, it has become something of a hallmark of the well-dressed hobbyist. And if you’re a Styleforum member, there’s a good chance you already have a collection of these. But if you don’t (and let’s face it – Styleforum represents a small percentage of men worldwide), and if you’re interested in neckwear, this is a chance for you to discover what could become a new favorite accessory.

The knit tie, in its current state, has been around since the 1920’s more or less unchanged. Once adopted by the Ivy set, the knit tie is now a staple of American and Italian tailored wardrobes, often found worn with oxford cloth shirts. They show up everywhere from JCrew to Charvet. These days, you’ll most often see ties knit from silk due to the sheen from the fabric’s texture, but wools and cottons are an equally good choice and are by no means a “step down,” depending on the look you have in mind.

To Knit, or Not to Knit

A knit tie isn’t an evening tie. Let’s get that out of the way. And although a knit tie may be office-appropriate depending on where you work, it is by and large informal neckwear. A grenadine is a more elegant option for most occasions, including a conservative business wardrobe. That means you have to consider when, really, you should wear one. Although they’re more commonly worn with an odd jacket and trousers, you can indeed wear a knit tie with a suit, as long as the cut and material are appropriate – for example, a three-piece peak lapel suit will probably look out of place with a knit tie, but a tweed jacket with chinos and chukkas may be just right. As another possibility, a black knit tie with a navy notch-lapel suit can look impeccable if the outfit is put together well. Note that there are no hard and fast rules, but that certain combinations may be more successful.

Remember that a knit tie is still a tie, even if it can be an eye-grabbing touch to bring together an outfit. Rules for tie-wearing still apply, and the fun of knit ties doesn’t mean that taste can be tossed out the window. A knit tie can be contrasting or complementary, but do try to avoid mashing together too many styles or patterns at once. The line between quirky, stylish dressing and gaudy dressing is often thin, and forcing too many elements into one outfit is a good way to wind up with the latter.

As in all things, trust in your own good taste – and be aware that life doesn’t exist solely through an Instagram lens. Or, barring that, post a picture on Styleforum and ask for feedback.

How knot to wear one (heh heh)

On that note, we at Styleforum have noticed, over the last few years, an attempt to make the skinny knit tie a rugged accessory to be worn with denim and boots. Often, they’re paired with a plaid or denim work-shirt (this latter is a different beast from a chambray or denim shirt to be worn under a jacket). You’ve probably seen this look before, since it has been peddled in men’s style magazines and at malls across the country for the last 5-7 years.

While on some levels this is understandable – attempting to make every piece of clothing “dressy casual” seems to be the forte of Americans – the results tend to be poor. There are exceptions to every rule (and in this case an Ivy-inspired casual outfit might not be a total disaster) but we suggest not doing this. No one benefits, and the look is confused. If you are aiming for a casual, denim-based look, forego the tie, even if it’s knit.

Instead, remember again that a knit tie is still a tie. In most cases, it will look best with trousers and a jacket. You just have a bit more leeway.

Widths and Shapes

Again, the look pushed to the public in the recent past has been pencil-thin knit ties. I’d suggest not going narrower than 2.5” or so, but that 3” knit ties are quite elegant. And although you’ll most commonly find square-tipped ties, a pointed blade is by no means out of place on a knit tie.

Patterns and Colors

The whole point of a knit tie is to showcase texture. If a knit tie is knitted to look flat and lifeless, don’t buy it. It should be visibly knit, you know? Beyond that, the flavor is largely up to you. Whether you want a soft, soothing touch or a crunchy feel, you have a lot of options.

Solids are by far the easiest place to start. Navy, brown, rust, green, and even purple are great options. If you’re looking for patterns, try something subtle – simple dots, or even just a clever knit design, is usually all the pattern you’ll need with all that texture going on.

Seasonal dressing offers more for the adventurous at heart, of course. For example, Styleforum member @GusW suggests charcoal cashmere for autumn, or an eye-catching pink for springtime.

Tying Up Loose Ends

Finally, the only knot you should ever use for a knit tie is the four-in-hand. Never mind that the four-in-hand is the only tie knot you should ever use; in this case, anything else will not only make you look like a jerk, but a ridiculous jerk.

How you tie it is more or less up to you, though. Currently, the style favored by Instagram personalities and some well-dressed forum members seems to be to let the skinny end of the tie hang a bit lower and looser than the blade. I can’t argue with that – I am aware that it may be “technically” improper, if you want to loop a rakishly-tied piece of casual silk around your neck, I feel that you ought to be free to adjust lengths as you choose. As long as the blade of the tie is hitting the proper length (neither too long nor too short), the skinny end can do as it wishes.

As you may have picked up from this article, knit ties remain a popular accessory on Styleforum. Luckily for all of us, this means that there’s no shortage of excellent examples. The slideshow below shows a range of knit tie styles, and many suggestions on how to wear them. You’ll appreciate the wide range of looks demonstrated here.

Where to Buy

A number of Styleforum affiliates offer knit ties. Here are a few options:

Looking for further discussion? Try this Styleforum thread:

Knit Tie Discussion and Appreciation

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Good Buy: Tricker’s Stow

Posted on October 7, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

I had a pair of Tricker’s Stow boots once upon a time. Great boots. Comfy, stylish, and nicely-made. Casual, certainly, but the fact that you can wear them 5-6 months out of the year where I live means they see a lot of use. Sadly, my pair are no longer with me, but ever since they left I’ve been contemplating picking up a replacement. The number of suede models available at the moment has made this compulsion more noticeable.

According to my girlfriend, I have a mild obsession with suede boots. This, despite the fact that I’ve managed to cut my collection down to two pairs – but she’s right that I’m always looking for more. The perceived fragility – and I say perceived, because most suedes really aren’t fragile at all – of suede boots has never bothered me, and I tend to wear them anywhere and anytime I’d wear any other shoe.

I don’t know if there’s a rule about suede boots being perfect for autumn written in the Style Rulebook somewhere, but the combination of texture and depth of color that suede offers lends itself to autumn foliage and chilly mornings and all of that 90’s rom-com stuff.

As loathe as I am to revel in the sorrow of others, the current state of the British pound means that ordering directly from Tricker’s is a pretty attractive proposition. Currently, they’re sitting at about 480USD, which, while not exactly pocket change, is a fair bit cheaper than you’ll find them at most North American sellers. If, like me, you’re constantly contemplating another boot purchase, take a quick look at what Tricker’s has up on their website – maybe I’ll see you out on the moors some day, and we can have a “SAME BOOTS” moment.

Here’s the full line of Tricker’s country boots – suede and otherwise

Seasonal Endorsement: The Roll-Neck Sweater

Posted on October 6, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

Fall knitwear has been arriving in stores for months now, but if you’re like some of us you’re still dying of heat. Even so, for the sake those of us with an eye on our winter wardrobes, I’d like to take a minute to discuss the venerable roll-neck sweater, which – trust me on this one – is one of the most useful, versatile, and comfortable items of clothing any man (or woman) can have in his or her closet.

First of all, let’s get the semantics out of the way. For the purposes of this article, a roll-neck sweater and a turtleneck sweater are the same thing – and both are the same as a polo-neck sweater. A true roll-neck features a tube of fabric sewn to the neckline of the shirt, which can then be pulled all the way up to the chin, or folded – or rolled – down to the neckline.

That’s in contrast to a mock-neck or mock-turtleneck sweater, on which both ends of the tube have been sewn to the neckline. I would suggest avoiding the mock-necks, as not only do they have a tendency to make the wearer look like a high school sports coach (there are, of course, exceptions), but on cold days it’s incredibly handy to be able to pull that extra fabric up to your chin if you choose.

You have a couple of good fabric options when choosing a rollneck. For simplicity’s sake, let’s discuss the general categories of cotton, wool, and cashmere variants. Cotton rollnecks – just thick shirts, really – are by far the easiest to wear and wash. Wear it as you would a t-shirt, either tucked into your trousers or worn free. I enjoy these pieces, as they’re usually less warm than actual knit rollnecks. That’s handy if you’re layering for unpredictable (or temperate) weather, but they tend not to look as sharp as the knit varieties. On the plus side, they’re cheap and available, and they’re the kind of basic that can easily be turned into part of a daily uniform. My choice is Uniqlo’s offerings, which come in thick, black cotton (although a variety of other colors are available) that’s plenty comfortable and stands up to repeated washing. These don’t come with ribbed hems, so there’s no mistaking them for a sweater. Keep in mind that cotton is still cotton – it doesn’t insulate like wool does, and if you sweat through it, it won’t be pleasant.

: Cotton; Uniqlo, 14.90

: Wool/Alpaca, $315 at Notre Shop

: Wool; Inis Meain, $465 at No Man Walks Alone

Your second choice is the fisherman-style heavy roll-neck, which encompasses the whole range of rural, outdoorsy, salt-n-pepper manly offerings. You can find these at a variety of outlets at a variety of prices, from LL Bean to Inis Meain. The two most important considerations for these pieces are weight and material. Consider whether you plan to layer your sweater under your outerwear (you probably are). If so, how thick do you want the fabric to be? Thick cable knits tend to work best under equally heavy coats and jackets, as the sweater won’t visually overpower the outerwear, which itself should be roomy enough for added bulk. If your sweater doesn’t fit under your coat, you’ll be neither warm nor comfortable.

Second, consider the fabric. If you have sensitive skin, or dislike scratchy things touching your neck, consider avoiding heavy wool offerings. Purists will howl, but the addition of nylon or – gasp – acrylic to a wool blend (sometimes a hallmark of a cheaper or more fashion-forward knit) can make the fabric much softer to the touch.

Finally, consider the color and style. If you’re interested in any of the available fisherman-style, aran, or cable-knit sweaters, greys and oatmeals are traditional colors. If instead you’re searching for a “commando” sweater, most of which feature cotton or nylon shoulder and elbow patches, you’ll probably find a lot of blacks and dark greens. Don’t limit yourself, however – any of these options are very versatile.

Lastly, if you’re interested in luxury, you can consider a cashmere roll-neck sweater. These tend to be simple, and if they’re good they don’t need to be complicated: buttery-soft cashmere wool is enough of a focal point. They also tend to be thinner, which makes it very simple to wear one under a sport coat, vest, or other lightweight outerwear. Although there are cheaper options available at major chain stores, cashmere still tends to be expensive – from about 200$ on the low end to well over $1,000 for fancy, branded options. A cashmere sweater is by no means a wardrobe necessity – but that’s the definition of luxury, isn’t it?

: Cashmere; Land’s End, $199

: Cashmere; Tomas Maier, $904 at Mr. Porter

: Cashmere; John Laing, $980 at the Hanger Project

Blacks and charcoals are the easiest colors to pair with a variety of outfits, but tans, creams, and oatmeals are fantastic if you tend towards casual wear. However, a camel roll-neck is one of the easiest colors to pair, and looks as good underneath black wool as it does with tweeds.

And that’s really what makes the roll-neck sweater so handy: it can be worn with anything. Wool or cotton options are equally at home splitting wood with the sleeves worn up (yes, people still split wood), worn under a down vest while out for cocoa, or worn under a jacket when out on a date. A thinner, shirt-weight roll-neck in any fabric looks fantastic under a sport coat, and exists in the strange but wonderful intersection between sharp and casual. You can wear the same roll-neck sweater with faded blue jeans or sharp trousers without ever looking out of place. Plus, the elongating neckline looks truly fantastic under a dramatic lapel, whether you’re wearing a suit or high-collared outerwear. It’s one of the clothing world’s few go-anywhere pieces, and whether you’re wearing Ralph Lauren or Yohji Yamamoto, there’s a place in your wardrobe for a roll-neck sweater.

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Three Techwear Brands for the Urban Outdoorsman

Posted on October 3, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

Since techwear officially became A Thing, there are more brands than I can count that are now playing with takes on the “day-hiker in the big city” look, and you can find them from retailers ranging from Dick’s to Mr. Porter. What is it? Outdoor clothing, or outdoor-inspired clothing, that makes the wearer look as though they may ascend an Alp (or several Alps) at any moment. Hardshell outerwear, sweat-wicking mid-layers, safari shorts, and gore-tex trail shoes are the backbone of this look, along with the new required garment for any hip tech brand: climbing pants.

The best thing about this movement is that you can just wear your comfy hiking or trail shoes and feel fine about it. Well, with restrictions – those wide-toed Merrell things are always going to be ugly as sin, but Salomon trail shoes and Danner hikers are firmly established in all the hippest streetwear stores, and they’ve got decent arch support to boot. Rejoice, for the days of mincing around on painfully flat Serena cup soles are over!

Now, there are a few brands making what I think is really cool, wearable, outdoorsy clothing. The three that have currently caught my eye are New York’s Battenwear, Japan’s Snow Peak, and a Tokyo-based company called and Wander. Although all three brands focus on technical, outdoorsy clothing, they’ve all come up with very different answers to the same question.

That question, I assume, is “How can I look appear to hike a fourteener while carrying a surfboard without looking like a shapeless blob of nylon and polyester?” In all cases, you’ll have to visit the brand’s homepage to see the full range of offerings.

Snow Peak

Snow Peak is a Japanese company that has been making camping gear such as backpacking stoves and titanium sporks since 1958, but they also make very cool (and occasionally bizarre) clothing that ranges from waxed down jackets to cable-knit leggings. Their shorts and pants are all of the mountaineering variety; most with cargo pockets and zips and elastic or self-belted waistbands. Crotch gussets feature prominently. More interesting pieces, such as water-resistant popover midlayers; cuddly, oversized fleece sweaters, and quilted lounge pants add much-needed whimsy that keeps the company from hard-tech goods such as those you might find at North Face or even Fjallraven.

I like to think that Snow Peak’s collection evokes an image of a small group of mountaineers climbing an unforgiving mountain in a whiteout. Sparkly motes wink in the air beside them, and magic crackles through the snow. It’s fairy techwear for a fantasy world, clothing that acts as a cozy, protective cocoon from the blizzard of the everyday.

Shop Snow Peak

: 3L Soft Trench

: Insect Shield Jacket

: Loopwheeled Tee

: Campground Pants

Photo: Snow Peak

Battenwear

Battenwear, designed in New York by Mr. Shinya Hasegawa and produced in the USA, offers a more Americanized take on outdoor goods. 60/40 cloth parkas and unassuming basics form the bulk of the collection, although lounge-centric pieces such as impeccably-constructed fleece hiking pants make you wonder why you’re still wearing denim. Mid-20th century cues guide color selection and product design, and in addition to the more experimental pieces you’ll find board shorts and hiking shorts in 50’s-flavored earth tones, florals, and the washed-out pastels of beachside California towns.

1970’s-inspired denim pieces and color-blocked looks add an out-of-time quality to Battenwear’s offerings, and the cuts are generally of the slim-but-boxy variety that is equally suggestive of European backpackers and A-frame tents. It’s all very ocean-to-mountain, and practically begs to be photographed alongside vintage National Park signage.

Shop Battenwear

: Classic Anorak

: Insulated Jacket

: Fleece “Horse Farm” Jacket

: Garage Shirt

: Fleece Lounge Pants

And Wander

When two Issey Miyake alums come together to make urban-mori clothing, the results are bound to be pretty good. And Wander delivers technical wear that manages to be alluring and evocative of natural pursuits, and keeps the wearer from looking like an advertisement for suburban fitness boot camps. You won’t find neons here – the technical fabrics (nylons and nylon blends feature heavily) come in subdued greens, blues and purples. Don’t be fooled by all-black buys – this brand shines in its use of earth tones.

And Wander focuses heavily on body-centric pattern-making, just as its competitors do. Expect climbing pants that offer a wide range of motion, Coolmax shirting, and lightweight outerwear. Layering the less-traditional pieces, such as the technical skirts and long parkas, keeps the look from verging too far into caricature.

Like Miyake, And Wander shows a gleeful focus on objects and accessories, and non-traditional backpacks and vests are a seamless part of the collection, along with hats and gloves. For fall 2016, they’ve also worked with Paraboot to develop a vintage-style hiker that will – one hopes – keep your feet warm and dry during a slushy city winter.

Shop and Wander

: Reflection Wave Jacket

: Paraboot Hikers

: Flame-Retardant Vest

: UV-Resist Quickdry Pants

How to Pair White Pants and a Jacket

Posted on September 9, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

Since we all know it’s just fine to wear white after Labor Day, let’s take a moment to discuss how to pair white pants and a jacket. White is an excellent choice for late summer and early fall, and is a solid staple for both daytime and casual evening looks, particularly when white trousers are paired with a jacket.

It’s a forgiving base for any combination, and if you can keep them clean they’ll be as versatile as your favorite grey trousers without any business connotations. I myself favor a no-break or even slightly cropped (not highwater) trouser hem, particularly for a lightweight pant. White or off-white trousers in heavier fabrics such as flannels (yes, you can wear white into winter) take well to a range of autumnal colors, so you can keep wearing them through the winter – just avoid slushy days.

For casual summer looks, it’s easiest to pair a lightweight or unstructured jacket, as a relaxed shape adds to the breeziness. However, that doesn’t mean that strong tailoring looks out of place with white – on the contrary, a sharp jacket – particularly a double-breasted jacket – can work equally well.

Keep in mind that a white shirt likely won’t be the best choice when wearing white pants and a jacket. I favor blues and greens, as these colors don’t immediately connote golf courses the way brighter colors – such as a pink – might. In particular, I find that a washed chambray – or even a midnight navy for an evening outfit – looks good with a wide range of jacket connotations and offers enough versatility that you don’t look as though you’re permanently stuck at a barbecue.

There are a few pitfalls to watch out for. First is to make sure you’re not wearing skin-tight pants, which is less of an issue with trousers than it is with jeans or chinos. White leggings aren’t flattering on anyone. Second, if you’re wearing linen or other lightweight trousers, do an underwear check – some fabrics tend towards translucency. And third, keep them clean. While colored trousers – and white jeans – can take some abuse and look no worse (or even better!) for it, white trousers tend to take on all the charm of a used napkin when they get dirty.

Otherwise, think of white as a blank canvas and trust your own tastes – and be sure to share your results on Styleforum’s What Are You Wearing Today thread.

If you’re in search of a starting place for your white-trousered looks, here are two suggestions to give you a push: