Pitti Uomo 94: Streetstyle pictures of the best outfits spotted outside of the Fortezza da Basso.
To comment the outfits, head over to the Pitti Uomo 94 thread on Styleforum.
If you’re in Florence, visit our guide to menswear shopping in town here.
All photos by @sebastianmcfox
By Cristina Ferro
Florence is the city where the Italian fashion system was founded. In Florence you can find a world made of highly skilled artisans and their expertise: In fact, its history and traditions made it possible to create the perfect network for an emerging fashion market.
Florence is still a great place for menswear shopping. We have great boutiques and workshops where tradition is at its best. Here’s a selection of menswear boutiques for menswear shopping to visit during Pitti Uomo:
Let’s start with the most iconic and famous boutique: Eredi Chiarini is a must-visit place for menswear shopping in Florence. As far as I can remember, It’s always been a landmark for gentlemen as well as for young professionals. I remember our dad and older brothers used to buy their garments from Eredi Chiarini when I was a little girl in the 80’s!
This amazing clothing store opened in 1970; shortly after, they began to manufacture jackets, pants, shirts, and suits in line with the style of Italian and British accessories such as ties, bags, umbrellas, hats and shoes that they carry in store.
You can get your tailored garments done at Eredi Chiarini, as they collaborate with the most prestigious Italian tailors and offer a great selection of fabrics.
Address: Via Porta Rossa 33/R Firenze
Many of you may be familiar with Franco Minucci. He started working in menswear as an agent for some of the most important brands in the early 80’s. Through the years, he developed a personal fashion aesthetic that came to fulfillment with the opening of his own menswear shop, which offers the highest quality merchandise, in 1984.
After Mr. Franco Minucci founded the Tie your Tie Shop in Florence, he established its factory of marvelous artisanal ties. His inspiration for the shop comes from the concept of “beauty and simplicity”, and his values can be found in the details of these gorgeous creations, as well as in the highest quality items selected for his menswear boutique.
Ties are definitely the key player here, especially the “Sette Pieghe”, the original sevenfold ties.
Mr. Minucci says that the inspiration for the Sette Pieghe comes from the colors and designs from mid 19th century fashion. The Sette Pieghe ties were a great success as soon as they were released and still are made by hand using fine cloths provided by world-famous suppliers.
Address: Piazza de’ Rucellai 8r Firenze
Liverano & Liverano is one of the most important tailoring houses in Florence, as well as one of the few remaining from an era where dressing well was not considered a flair, but rather a requirement for any respectable man. The Liverano brothers’ business started at the end of the 1960’s in Florence, in Santa Maria Novella. Twenty years later, they moved the business to Via de’ Fossi, where it is still located today.
It’s not uncommon to walk inside and find Antonio Liverano in the house, at work at the cutting table. This is what made him one of the most respectful and admired personalities in the modern Florentine tailoring scene.
The Florentine tailoring style is all about slightly extended, soft, and generous shoulder, short jacket bottom, wide chest, low positioned pocket to create a V-shaped jacket whose bottom borders are cut away. This is still Liverano’s signature style.
The Florentine tradition requires a three-button configuration, and in the tailoring house they always remind their clients of the golden rule: with a cutaway style, you need to close only the central button!
In Via de’ Fossi you will find tailors who have worked with Liverano for over 40 years as well as some young, equally skilled ones.
Address: Via de’ Fossi, 43 Firenze
Piero Puliti started his career in fashion in Florence, working in the trendiest menswear shops if the 1970’s. After a few years, he started his business as a fashion designer, creating his own prêt-a-porter collections.
Later on, his love for menswear brought him to open a shop of his own in the heart of downtown Florence, not far from the Duomo and Piazza Della Signoria. He still runs a small, marvelous boutique where his creations and his taste and style in decorating spaces are manifest to the visitors; in this small boutique, his vision and creations are crystal clear. Piero is known to be one of the best tiemakers in town.
Address: Via Del Corso 51/R Firenze
The leather industry is one of the most important ones in Tuscany; we are very proud of our leather artisans, and some of them stand out for being of a kind in terms of quality and style. Dimitri Villoresi is one of those.
Dimitri runs his workshop in Oltrarno, where he personally stitches his creations. Dimitri’s workshop, DV Bags, is a charming place that is hidden away from the main touristic areas and guided tours.
Dimitri Villoresi can be considered a visionary poet and an artist. He is one of the pioneers in the movement that looks back to true craftsmanship: he only uses the traditional tools of a by-gone era, and none of his creations ever see a sewing machine. His instruments are the cobblers’ knives, awls, scissors, needles, and thread.
The Dimitri Villoresi workshop is also a training center: here, the old art of leatherworking is passed on to the new generations through individual, personalized courses.
My favorite bag is La Sporta, a traditional “shopping bag” suitable for daily use. As Dimitri says, “it is an open container where you just put your things straight in and they stay there”. Such a pure and essential design for men and women alike!
Address: Via dell’Ardiglione 22 Firenze
Here’s another designer from team Oltrarno! Marina is an artist who runs a beautiful studio in Oltrarno, in Palazzo Guicciardini, in the heart of the coolest district in Florence. Her handiwork focuses mainly on painting and the creation of amazing pieces of furniture and homeware objects. Through the years, she has taken inspirations from the most diverse fields: food, science, and nature.
Marina also is a skilled goldsmith. If you get to know her, you’ll love her jewelry. And her men’s collections are just as inspiring and creative as the rest of the items you’ll see visiting her atelier.
Her cufflinks remind me of a shackle (perfect for sailing lovers!), physics and its formulas (Quantum teleportation formula), the shape of Santo Spirito church, Nautilus fossils, champagne corks, musical notes (specifically the Chroma), and finally the latest creation: the Bond-inspired shape of a Martini cocktail.
You should visit her studio and experience this connection between fashion, arts, and science!
Address: Via Santo Spirito, 14 Firenze
If you lived in Florence and you were looking for high quality, timeless, and classic pieces for your wardrobe, you would likely be a regular customer of Bernardo’s, and an acquaintance of Andrea, the owner. I know more than a man who has made of this tiny menswear boutique their #1 choice when it comes to menswear shopping.
Bernardo is a small, charming boutique in Via Porta Rossa, exquisitely piled in 23 square meters or less. In such a tiny space, they manage to carry so many great clothes! The store has existed for over thirty years and it’s known for the excellent selection of brands and the great customer service: clients are cared of and advised by Andrea and his employees.
Bernardo also offers an excellent custom-made tailoring service. Indeed, the most peculiar trait of this boutique is the precision they have when helping a client. This is why gentlemen in Florence have always considered it one of the best places for menswear finds and true Made-in-Italy classic pieces.
Address: Via Porta Rossa 87/r Firenze
Not far from Bernardo, walking through the streets around via Tornabuoni (the luxury goods shopping street in Florence) you might take a turn and find yourself in a totally different universe. It’s a colorful place that reminds me of wildlife, history, and traditions: it’s the world of TACS Casentino.
You may know that Casentino is a valley located in Eastern Tuscany north of Arezzo. It is famous for its naturalistic beauty, wild forests, Etruscan sites, Romanesque churches, and Medieval castles, as well as for the traditional fabric that takes its name.
The production of the panno casentino started in the mid 19th century, and with time, its manufacturers developed the techniques to give the Casentino fabric its peculiar characteristics: the traditional ricciolo (curl), and the soft hand with an irregular surface.
Originally, Casentino fabric was often dyed in colors we wouldn’t expect to see today; the most typical color was a very bold red. Today, we all know its most iconic colors are bright orange and green, but maybe not everyone knows that these tones were the result of a mistake occurred in the dyeing process!
In this small boutique, you will find every model and color of coats and accessories in Casentino, as well as collections in fustian and cashmere.
Address: Borgo Santi Apostoli 43 R Firenze
Cristina Ferro is an image consultant based in Florence, Italy. You can visit her official website here.
Please note that coupon codes may change throughout the weekend and that we’ll do our best to keep updating them and adding new ones. If you’d like to share a sale that’s not on the list, you may do so in the comment section or on the Official Sales Thread on the forum.
Thank you and happy shopping!
Acrimony: Save 40% off discounted items. Use code: FAREWELL.
Allen Edmonds: up to 40% off on shoes, plus 30% off Woodlore.
Alternative Apparel – 40% off plus 20% off “brands we love” with code URFAMILY
American Trench: 20% off everything with code cookout.
Antonioli: Sales now on up to 50% off. More brands added: Calvin Klein, Off-White & more.
ASOS: 30% off occasionwear.
Baby & Co.: sale on now up to 40% off.
Backcountry: 30% off full price Arc’teryx.
Barneys: up to 40% off designer sale.
Barney’s Warehouse: Up to 85% Off Savings with an extra 50% off designer styles.
Beckett Simonon: any two pairs of shoes for $299 with code MEMORIAL.
Ben Sherman: 30% off with code HONOR.
Bergdorf Goodman: up to 40% off designer sale.
Bloomingdale’s: 20-40% off on regular price items and 40-50% off discounted items labeled “big brown sale”. Loyallists earn $50 every $200 spent.
Bluefly: up to 85% off, plus an additional 20% off on selected items.
Blue & Cream: Flash sale 20% EXTRA OFF sale with code EXTRA20.
Blue In Green: 25% off throughout the weekend.
Braun Hamburg: cashmere sale – 50% off.
Bodega: Use code EXTRA20 at checkout to save an additional 20% on sale items.
Bodileys: 30%off Mayfair and London collection with code BOD30.
Braun-Hamburg: CASHMERE SALE starts now! Summer cashmere reduced up to 50%.
Brooks Brothers: Men’s Non-Iron Shirts Mix & Match 4 for $199 (or up to $120 each); Ties 50% off 2 or more.
Burberry: mid-season sale happening now.
Cali Roots: 25% OFF SITEWIDE CALIROOTS 14th ANNIVERSARY DEAL use code BDAY.
Canoe Club: 25% off with MEMORIALDAY25.
Carmina: 20% off a selection with code 20OFFCARMINA and 10% everything with code MEMORIALDAY2018
Club Monaco:25% off any purchase with code WARMWELCOME.
Cobbler Union: drivers and loafers 15% off with code REMEMBER.
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Cultizm: 20% off + free shipping with code 20now.
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Dope Factory: up to 50% off spring collection.
East Dane: Up to 40% off just-added items.
eBay: 15% off orders of $50 or more via coupon code PMEMDAY
Epaulet: Save 30% to 60% for Memorial Day.
Ernest Alexander: 30% off sale items with code MEMORIALDAY.
Farfetch: sale of up to 50% off.
Flannels: Up To 70% Off | The Outlet.
Forward: up to 50% off.
Frances May: Memorial Day sale now on 30% off a selection.
Gant: 20% off everything (automatic) or 30% off full-price at GANT w/code GNT30.
Gilt: 25% menswear and men’s accessories with code 25MAY.
Gitman: 20% off with code SUMMER18.
Golden Fox Footwear: Up to 70% off selected boots, no code required. Ends 05/29.
Great Divide: 20% off with code BANKHOLIDAY.
Franklin & Poe: 20% of everything with the code PARADE18.
Haven shop: Free shipping with code FLSHSHIP.
The Hill Side: 25% Off Everything with code MEMDAY.
Hotoveli: up to 50% off.
Huckberry: sale up to 70% off.
Hudson Sutler: 20% off on The Heritage Commuter Duffel with code DAD20.
30% OFF Norse Projects, APC, Astorflex,Our Legacy, New Balance, Nanamica, The North Face and more (excl. sale) with code: VIPPRESALE.
Idol Brooklyn: Use code PRESALE30 at checkout for 30% off SS18 collections.
Independence: 50% off FW ’17 + Free shipping over $100.
Indocino: up to 60% off.
Jachs New York: MEMORIAL DAY SALE 50% OFF WITH CODE MDAY50.
J. Crew: 40% off your purchase including new collection with code GETAWAY.
John Elliott: S/S 18 Sale | Now Live.
Jonathon + Olivia: up to 50% off
Julian Fashion: Sale Season is started: Up to 40% Off.
Kith: sales on shoes and clothing.
Lanvin: Enjoy 50% off the Summer 2018 Collection and free shipping.
Last Call: up to 75% off everything.
LC King: 30% off with code Memorial18.
Levis: Memorial Day sale ongoing – use code MAY30 for 30% off.
L’Inde Le Palais: 50% off on SS18 collections.
LNN-CC: sale up to 40% off.
LOIT: Sale Starts Now – 30% Off with code LOITMD18
LSG Denim: Sale – selvedge denim for 96.99 usd/125 cad with free shipping to US/Canada till June 9th.
Luisa Via Roma: up to 30% off SS18.
Luxeswap: 40% off shirts (min. 3) with code HOLYSHIRT; 75% off pants (min. 3) with code PANTPARTY; 35% off Ring Jackets with code RINGAROUNDTHEROSY; 50% off waistcoats with code WAISTNOTWANTNOT; 35% off Drake’s ties(min. 2) with code TIEONEON.
MAAS & Stacks: Enjoy a 25% discount on selected items after entering code: MEMORIAL18
Maison Margiela: up to 40% off* the SS18 Collection on the Maison Margiela online store.
Malford of London: 60% off everything plus extra 25% off with code SALE60.
Matches: sale on now for up to 50% off.
Miloh Shop: 20% Off All Denim with promo code “DENIM20“.
Mohawk: BEST OF SALE | 15% off for Memorial Day with code MEMORIAL15OFF.
Need Supply: Sale! New markdowns up to 40% off.
Neiman Marcus: Up to 40% off designer sale.
Ne.Sense: SS18 Sale 20% Off.
Nitty Gritty: 25% Off on Selected Footwear | A.P.C. Resort Fall Collection.
No Man Walks Alone: 80% off Private Archive Sale.
Nordstrom: Save up to 40% during Half-Yearly Sale
Nordstrom Rack: extra 25% off clearance items.
Notre-Shop: Additional Markdowns Up to 70% Off.
Nowell’s: 25% off with code MEM25.
Oak Street Bootmakers: $50 off all footwear.
Opening Ceremony: Take an Extra 20% Off All Sale Styles with code OCEXTRA20.
Other Shop: Use code ROYAL25 to take 25% off your order.
Pact Underwear: 20% off $100, 30% off $200, 40% off $300 use code MYSAVINGS.
Popov Leather: 30% off a selection + free shipping with code FATHERSDAY.
Rag & Bone: New Markdowns: Up to 60% Off.
Ralph Lauren: 30% off select styles with code MEMDAY.
The Real Real: 20% off with code REAL + up to 70% off.
Todd Snyder: 30% off new styles + up to 70% off sale.
Renarts: 40% off all regularly priced apparel, 30% off all regularly priced footwear, up to 80% off clearance, additional 10% sale section with code MDW10.
Roden Gray: Take up to 40% off selected apparel accessories and footwear.
Rooney Shop: Memorial Day sale now ongoing up to 30% off.
Saks 5th Ave.: up to 40% off DESIGNER SALE.
Sartoriale: Memorial Day Storewide SALE – Up to 90% OFF MSRP – Spend More, Save More
Shoes.com: Memorial Day sale 30-75% off + take 25% off with code SPRING 25.
ShopStyle: up to 70% off.
SSense: sale up to 50% off.
StyleBop: extra 20% off all styles applied at checkout.
Tessabit: Up to 50% off sale.
Todd Snyder: 30% off new styles + up to 70% off sale.
Totokaelo: 40% off Maison Margiela, Rick Owens, Comme des Garçons, and more.
Tres Bien: up to 70% off.
Uncle Otis: 20% OFF NEW ARRIVALS with code FLASH20.
Unis: sale on Common Projects.
Union: 30% and 40% off a selection.
Unionmade: take 20% off everything with the code MEMORIAL20.
Uniqlo: Free shipping no minimum order + items added to sale.
Urban Outfitters: sale up to 50% off.
Vince: extra 25% off of sale with code MDAY25.
X of Pentacles: all pocket squares on sale + Styleforum users get 10% off with code SF10.
Yoox: up to an extra 60% off.
Wrong Weather: SS18 sale up to 30% off
ZFACTORIE: 30-50% off some styles for Memorial Day.
Matteo Perin is an Italian designer and stylist; he’s been working with John Travolta for over 4 years, curating his red carpet looks, and he recently worked with the actor to bring to life the wardrobe of mobster John Gotti in the movie Gotti, which premiered at the Cannes Movie Festival last week.
We had a chat, translated here from Italian, with Matteo to understand his work in designing the movie costumes.
Styleforum: Matteo, tell us about John Gotti’s style; what did you find out during your research for the movie costumes?
Matteo Perin: I tried to gather as much material about John Gotti as possible from the archives: photographs, video clips, newspapers, etc. Like most people, his style evolved throughout the years; he started off a little “unrefined” in terms of taste and the fit of his clothes was not perfect (for instance, his jackets looked to be a touch big). Later on, his style evolved to be more tasteful and peculiar in relation to his persona, as his wealth and position allowed him to approach better quality garments and understand their fit. Think of your first taste of Burger King when you were a kid; it probably tasted delicious to your unrefined palate, but today, as an adult who has tried different types of food, you realize how limited your views were.
However, it was immediately clear to me that John Gotti was a man of style who was ahead of time in terms of trends and taste in clothes. His style looks rather modern even today: he used to wear shorter jackets than what was the norm in the 80s, and he had a flair for turtlenecks worn under jackets, something that is not unusual to see today.
SF: Is there anything peculiar about John Gotti’s style?
MP: Definitely his attitude: he looked impeccable without trying too hard, if that makes sense. He was the cool dude that didn’t have to do much to look cool, because he wore everything with nonchalance and confidence. In Italian, we call it sprezzatura. I’m not sure if you’re familiar with the term.
SF: Most of our readers are familiar with the term.
MP: He didn’t have to think too much about his outfits, and if he did, you wouldn’t notice. He looked at ease in his clothes and pulled off every flair, every extravagant accessory. His ability to look effortless even in clothes that stood out for the time is probably the most evident trait when talking about his style.
SF: Speaking of accessories, we noticed quite a few extravagant ones in the movie; for instance, some of Gotti’s ties feature rather unique patterns.
MP: Gotti had Southern Italian roots, where wealth and social position were reflected in one’s choice of accessories. Gotti’s Italian roots show in his choice of ostentatious accessories, such as unusual ties and big and flashy rings. Additionally, his style is reflective of a flamboyant personality.
SF: Did you create the pattern for his ties in the film?
MP: We were lucky enough to have access to some of Gotti’s personal accessories, as the family loaned them to us for the movie; the ties, as well as the big ring, were among them.
SF: What about the suits? Who is the tailor that created them for John Travolta?
MP: I have been using a tailor from Veneto, my birth region, for many years. He created all the suits for the movie Gotti.
SF: Tell us about the fabrics: are they Italian as well?
MP: For the movie Gotti I chose exclusively Italian fabrics. However, for the suits I design for John outside of the set, I pick fabrics from the best mills in the world, depending on what we need. Many English fabrics are exceptional.
SF: Did John Travolta pull off Gotti’s style?
MP: He absolutely did. John did an excellent job impersonating Gotti, and I think the clothes helped him tap into his character. He wanted me to work on the film costumes because he needed the clothes to be on point in order to complete the portrait of the mobster: John Gotti is known as the Dapper Don, and his style plays a crucial part in depicting his personality.
SF: What does John Travolta’s style look like outside of the set?
MP: John came to me because he wanted to work with a designer and not just a stylist; a stylist is limited in the choice of clothing, because he or she usually works with what designers and PR firms pass to them. John wanted to develop a personal, well-curated style that was his own and no-one else’s. We discuss each outfit and take inspiration from different things, even though we don’t do much planning about what he’s going to wear where. For instance, last week in Cannes, he wore the suit that we originally created for Gotti’s American premiere in NYC, on June 14th. It was a last minute decision, and like I said, we don’t really have a schedule for what he wears on social occasions.
Actor John Travolta poses for photographers during a photo call for the film ‘Gotti’ at the 71st international film festival, Cannes, southern France.
Photo: AP
SF: One last question about the costumes: what’s your personal favorite look from the movie Gotti?
MP: Ah, that’s a tough one. You know, I can’t really pick one. Can I tell you my two favorite outfits?
SF: Sure.
MP: One has certainly gotta be the grey double-breasted pinstripe suit; John wears it in the scene in court, and the resemblance with the original suit worn by Gotti is striking. I chose a slightly different pinstripe for John Travolta’s suit, since I found it more flattering on him, but if you look at the two pictures next to each other, it is really impressive how similar the two look.
SF: And the second look?
MP: It’s from the scene when Gotti is acquitted in court; he’s wearing a pair of dark brown pants, a grey turtleneck, and a blue jacket from the 70s. I just love the combination of colors – in fact, I really love blue and brown paired together, I think it’s a very aesthetically pleasing combination.
SF: What’s next on your and John Travolta’s schedule?
MP: I’m headed to LA next, then NYC to attend the premiere (on June 14th) and then we have a few events related to another movie that’s coming out soon, for which I also curated the costumes.
SF: Then we might speak again soon. Thank you and in bocca al lupo (break a leg) for the premiere!
MP: Grazie, ciao!
Gotti will be in theaters in the United States on June 15th.
Matteo Perin’s official website: https://www.matteoperin.com/
Your goals in choosing wedding attire should be to be comfortable, look wonderful, and continue to look wonderful in the pictures twenty and thirty years from now. Do not choose something because you think it looks cute or trendy or fashionable. Remember that you’ll be looking at these pictures for a long time, long after you realized that your coral-colored socks or teal bowtie weren’t as rad as you thought at the time. Naturally, this applies to the outfits of your groomsmen too.
An example of what you don’t want your wedding album to look like.
Start by reading this speech given by Manton: The London Lounge – Wedding Attire
You should now know everything you need about groomly attire. What about the groomsmen? Your wedding planner and/or fiancée may have the urge to make the groomsmen all match. Resist this urge. There are two reasons not to force groomsmen to match.
The first is that it means that they will either all have to rent suits, or all have to buy the same cheap suit. In either case, they will not be wearing a quality garment that fits them well.
Second, it looks ridiculous. It looks like the wedding party is two sets of 8-year old manytuplets dolled up for their family photo. Most of all, do not force them all to wear the same tie, which also matches the bridesmaid’s outfits.
Among the sins committed by the wedding planning industry, this may be the gravest. If your fiancée insists on the groomsmen matching, you’ll have to decide how much you care about this issue. But almost every one of the many threads started by grooms asking about attire for themselves and their groomsmen begins, “the bridesmaids are wearing this color, is it OK if my groomsmen or my groomsmen and I all wear this suit with this tie,” and is quickly followed by a number of SF members trying to convince the groom to avoid giving his groomsmen a uniform.
Instead, give your groomsmen some basic parameters within which they should all be able to operate and tell them to look their best. For instance, “mid-grey suit with a light blue shirt”, “navy suit with a white shirt”, or “charcoal suit with a white shirt.” Choose something solid that everyone should have. It’s fine to ask them all ahead of time if they all have grey or navy, and then go with whatever they all have already. No black suits. It’s a wedding, not a funeral.
If your wedding is less formal and in the daytime, you could choose a lighter, non-conservative-business-suit color, such as tan or light grey. However this is not something every man has in his closet, so you may have to inquire as to whether your groomsmen have such suits or would be willing to buy them for the occasion.
Black shoes are the risk-free option. Some people will tell you black shoes are the only option. But for any wedding that is informal enough not to be black tie or morning dress, it is unlikely anyone will point and laugh at tasteful dark brown or oxblood shoes. However, telling your groomsmen to wear brown shoes increases the risk that they will wear something not up to the formality of the occasion.
It is traditional for the groom to give neckties to his groomsmen. If you wish to do this, again, don’t get matching ties, but ties that all complement each other and are appropriate to the occasion. Choose any out of the following and it would be difficult for you to go wrong:
Kent Wang – Ties Glen Plaid
Kent Wang – Grenadine Steel Blue
Kent Wang – Grenadine Navy
Drake’s Navy & Silver Cross Grid Silk Jacquard
Drake’s – Navy Polka Dot Light Silk Jacquard
Drake’s – Silver Grenadine Garza Grossa
If you have enough time for bespoke ties to be made for you (email to be sure, but usually 4-6 weeks), visit samhober.com for a large selection of grenadine, Macclesfield and wedding ties, made to your specifications. Choosing all bowties isn’t totally ridiculous, but does look much more contrived than a selection of long ties. Sometimes even mixing bowties and long ties can work.
Browse more solids and wedding patterns on the “wedding ties” thread.
Following this simple strategy will ensure that everyone involved will look great on the big day and for years to come in the hundreds of photographs that will live on happily into eternity. As an added bonus, your groomsmen won’t resent you for forcing them to spend hundreds of dollars buying or renting clothing they don’t want and doesn’t fit them well.
This article is an edited and revamped version of an article published on Styleforum by Styleforum member Shawea.
Words and Illustrations by Jeffery Diduch
Alterations are a fact of life when buying tailored clothing. No two bodies are alike and seam allowances are necessary and provided so that a garment can be altered to fit better. Likewise, bespoke garments will also have seam allowances built in to allow for changes in weight over the life of a garment. The types of seam allowances, or inlays, will vary whether the garment was ready-made or tailor-made and so the types of possible alterations will also vary.
We will look in-depth at the allowances given for garment alterations. The illustrations show typical seam and inlay allowances – where bespoke differs from RTW; the extra is shown shaded in grey. Exact amounts vary from cutter to cutter so no detail has been given. Keep in mind that the minimum seam allowance recommended is ¼” so when looking at an allowance of 1”, for example, you have ¾” left to let out. Also, keep in mind that were are discussing one half of the garment so allowances should be doubled in most cases. For instance, if we can let the waist out 1/2” at a certain place, it gives a total circumference of 1” to let out.
Manufacturers vary slightly on the allowances on the neck, center back and side seam.
Neck
there may be only 3/8”, but better makers will have 5/8” allowing the collar to be raised up to 3/8”.
Shoulder
There is no allowance for changes to the shoulder width: it can be narrowed but not widened. Bespoke garments will generally have an allowance for widening here. The shoulder can be sloped or squared (squaring will shorten the garment slightly).
Center back
Between 5/8” and 7/8” is typical – bespoke cutters may leave more here.
Total to let out – ¾” to 1 ¼”
Side seam
Between 5/8” and 7/8” (bespoke may have less here).
Total to let out here – ¾” to 1 ¼”.
Hem
Generally 1 1/8” to 1 ¼”. Bespoke garments may have more. We will see that in most cases this does not allow the garment to be lengthened, but does give us some wiggle room for passing up the back for a stooped figure.
Armhole
RTW has only a small allowance for changes at the side seam. Bespoke generally has a generous allowance to either increase or decrease the width of the armhole. The armhole CAN NOT be raised without altering the length of the jacket and the position of the gorge and the pockets. While not strictly impossible, raising the armhole should not be attempted on a finished garment.
Side seam
Between 5/8” and 7/8”. Bespoke will have considerably more.
Total to let out here – ¾” to 1 ¼”
Front seam
Generally 5/16” or 3/8”- no room to let out here. The pocket will intersect this seam so in most cases it must be dismantled and remade in order to take in this seam here; this is difficult and costly.
Hem
Generally 1 1/8” to 1 ¼”. Bespoke may have more.
Neck
There may be only 3/8”, but better makers will have 5/8” allowing the collar to be raised up to 3/8”.
Shoulder
There is no allowance for altering the shoulder in RTW garments, other than to narrow it, slope it, and, to a small extent, to square it. Bespoke generally has an allowance to drop the front (for a longer front balance) and to widen the shoulder. Crookening and straightening the shoulder (to a small extent) is also possible in bespoke garments.
Side seam
Generally 5/16” or 3/8” – no room to let out here. The pocket will intersect this seam so in most cases it must be dismantled and remade in order to take in this seam here; this is difficult and costly.
Hem
Generally 1 1/8” to 1 ¼”. Notice how the front edge is cut off where the curved edge meets the hem- this prevents lengthening the garment in a consistent, back-to-front manner, impossible.
Lapel and front edge
It is sometimes possible, though costly, to narrow the lapel – the buttonhole creates certain restrictions. It is not possible to widen it. In some cases, a peak can be converted to a notch, though never the reverse. The lower part of the front edge can be cut away more beneath the lowest buttonhole.
Hem
Generally 2” to 2 ¼” given to lengthen the sleeve from the cuff – no allowance is given to lengthen from the top, but the sleeve can be shortened from the top.
Inseam, elbow seam
The sleeve can be narrowed (should really be done at the elbow seam) but no allowance is given to widen the top sleeve: extra width would be necessary to correct most sleeve “divot” problems so it is best not to attempt to have those altered.
Vent
Some RTW garments have a narrow vent, others have a wider vent. Making functional buttonholes on a narrow vent is impossible without either narrowing the sleeve or piecing in more cloth.
Hem
Generally 2” to 2 ¼” given to lengthen the sleeve from the cuff. No allowance is given to lengthen from the top, but the sleeve can be shortened from the top.
Inseam
No allowance for changes given here.
Elbow seam
No allowance is given in RTW (Oxxford is the only manufacturer that I am aware of who do give an allowance here) but bespoke will generally have seam allowances for widening or narrowing the armhole, as well as widening the bicep and elbow. The cuff can be narrowed.
No allowances for enlarging the trouser front are given in RTW; bespoke often has seam allowances to lengthen the rise from the waist.
The leg can be narrowed easily; narrowing at the hip requires recrafting the pocket.
Waist
Generally, 1 ½” given to let out the waist.
Total to be let out 2 ½”.
Outseam
RTW trousers have no allowance to let out the outseam, most bespoke trousers do.
Inseam
Generally 1 1/8” to let out the back thigh, bespoke may have more. In most cases, this allowance is tapered to nothing at the knee, though some manufacturers extend it all the way down to the hem.
If you’re thinking about altering a garment and need some advice, check out the Tailor’s Thread: Fit Feedback and Alterations on Styleforum.
April is indeed the cruelest month; not only does it make our beloved tweeds & flannels disappear – swept to the most recondite corner of our wardrobe – but it also plagues us with atrocious “end of season” sales. If you’ve ever shopped for bargains during this time of the year, you’ll know that, despite dirt-cheap prices, there is hardly anything worth even considering. A quick look at Yoox’s infamous 90% off sale confirmed this tendency hasn’t changed in 2018. In fact, it might just be even worse.
As a propitiatory act to welcome spring, here I present you the very worst (and I mean bottom-of-the-barrel, atrocious, borderline grotesque) of Yoox’s last sale of the season. Hide your credit cards, everyone!
I feel like the only way this design could be improved would be adding random typos and grammar mistakes. Could you picture an Italian grandma knitting it for you and threatening to hit you with a rolling pin if you don’t wear it at the family dinner?
Sadly the logo trend doesn’t seem to be just a fad, and we have to accept that even the most respected fashion and tailoring houses embraced it. Take this polo shirt by Isaia, featuring a menacing coral branch creeping up your pecs – and think that this is as classy as this can get.
I don’t know if I’m more amused by the fact the name of the brand translates into “Terror” in Italian, or by the tomato color of these pants, which, as if they weren’t terrifying enough for cut and shade, are also cropped above the ankle to give you a delightful high waters effect. Can you believe they’re down to $16 from over $150?
Beauty & The Beast Forever Rose
I’m not sure what would prompt a mentally stable adult to shell out $425 (on sale!) for an accurate representation of Bella’s rose from Beauty and the Beast, but here we have it.
Because what screams badass more than a pair of bulky kicks made out of genuine Targaryen dragon skin?
Naturally, there are some real gems you can buy during the sale – you just have to be really good at finding them. If I were you, I’d try getting a pair of Castaner espadrilles before summer comes and you’ll likely not find them at such good price for a while.
Please share with us your #atrociousyooxfinds under this post or on the forum.
Part of Styleforum’s mission is to introduce our community to the “behind the scenes” of a brand, and connect makers with like-minded connoisseurs that appreciate their works.
Cobbler Union, based in Atlanta, is a men’s shoemaker that manufacturers high-quality Goodyear welted shoes in Spain; they produce shoes directly with artisans, creating products that capture their own ethos that are not rebranded makers.
Here’s Daniel Porcelli’s travel journal during his latest trip to Europe, where he visited Cobbler Union’s workshop and sourced the leather for Cobbler Union’s upcoming models.
As I flew over the Italian Alps and prepared for landing at Malpensa Airport in Milan, I was quickly reminded of why I love and respect our craft so much. I started Cobbler Union partly to preserve and respect the artisanship of shoemaking. But, the more time I spend in the industry, the more I realize that what we’re doing is much bigger than that. Cobbler Union is a vehicle that promotes a respect for workmanship and quality, a more beautiful way of life, one which positively affects our extraordinary craft. I consider myself a fortunate man for having the opportunity to do so.
While at the airport, my first cappuccino of the trip reminds me that I have just entered a different world, one full of exquisite aromas, beautiful architecture, elegant men and women, a world that inspires. It reminds me that through the appreciation of life around us that beautiful products can be created.
As I started my eleven-day grand tour in Europe, I was certain of one thing: the cappuccino always comes before the shoes, not the other way around.
For me, it is always an honor to visit our artisans in Spain. Their dedication to the shoemaking craft is extraordinary. Put into context, a pair of our Goodyear-welted shoes has more than two hundred processes and tasks executed by twenty-five experienced artisans. These men and women labor on their feet for many hours a day. The art of making a shoe requires sweat and mental dedication as each step in production requires focus and attention to detail.
Today, there are few shoemaking clusters left in Europe. The majority of Goodyear-welted shoes are produced in a handful of towns spread across Spain, England, and, to a lesser extent, Italy. Other countries like Portugal, Hungary, or Romania all make beautiful shoes but, in general, with different methods. The growing scarcity of artisans and the increasing fragility of the industry is why we’ve made it our mission at Cobbler Union to do everything we can to promote our craft as much as we can.
I firmly believe that the more a man appreciates the labor of love behind his shoes, the more he will cherish and enjoy them.
Most of my trip to Spain was devoted to quality refinement and product development. Cobbler Union’s aim is to produce shoes that compare to legendary brands that oftentimes have a 100-year head start on us. This means we have to be agile, to work resolutely and aim high before we can be recognized among the best classic shoemakers in the world.
On this trip, we started a two-year initiative to implement forty quality improvements spanning product design, fit & comfort, construction, and quality. The goal of this project is for our products to become a benchmark against which new entrants and legacy brands alike are measured.
In addition, I have begun the development process for over twenty-five new models. Many of these will be made on two new lasts that we’ll begin testing in the coming weeks.
There are few things more rewarding than bringing a new product to market.
While concluding my European tour, I was fortunate enough to attend Lineapelle in Milan. This is our industry’s major trade show where the world’s finest tanneries present their collections. I love attending the event to strengthen relationships with the creators of our industry’s main component. By far, this is my favorite event of the year. Many of these tanneries have been in business for generations and their proprietors are legends in the leather-goods industries.
This year, I found inspiration in the colors and textures of the hides, learning something new with each conversation.
As a maker, we use top grade calfskin, which is one of the ways we set ourselves apart from other shoemakers. All in all, we found some exquisite hides and new interesting colors which will be adding to our collection in the coming months.
Leaving this fantastic trade show was the toughest part of my trip!
You can connect with Cobbler Union on the Official Affiliate Thread on Styleforum.
I appears like more people are taking menswear more seriously this year at Pitti Uomo 93. And by “more seriously”, we obviously mean that we’ve been seeing many more “Styleforum Approved” outfits than usual.
If you’re in Florence, don’t forget to stop by the Styleforum Maker Space – we are showcasing great artisans and having lots of fun eating mozzarella di bufala and Tuscan salumi!
While Neapolitan, Milanese, and even Roman tailors are world-famous and respected, we can’t possibly ignore the fact that tailoring schools flourish all over Italy – even on the southern island of Sicily.
I Sarti Italiani has been making bespoke suits, trousers, and shirts since 1986; they focus on precise, careful stitching, and they only use the best quality materials for their suits. The lining is always cupro bemberg, the buttons are either corozo, horn or mother of pearl, and the canvas is in camel hair or horse hair.
The selection of fabrics is on point: Ermenegildo Zegna, Loro Piana, Cerruti 1881, Draper’s, Vitale Barberis Canonico, Bottoli, Larusmiani, and Scabal are only few of the names you’ll find in I Sarti Italiani’s fabric book.
Sicilian tailoring features the same, relaxed characteristic of Neapolitan tailoring, without the flairs typical of the Partenopean tradition. I Sarti Italiani offers bespoke solutions and blends Italian craftsmanship with unique Southern taste. Our very own Peter Zottolo has recently written an article about his recent experience with I Sarti Italiani in occasion of a recent trip to Italy.
You can find I Sarti Italiani in Sicily at these locations – but they also do a home or office bespoke service for those who are too busy to stop by the showroom:
Sartoria Montelepre (PA) C/da Vallotta s/nc
Show-room Marsala (TP) Via Mario Nuccio n°10-12
Show-room Palermo Via Isidoro la Lumia 27/A
At The Maker Space, you’ll be able to chat with the tailors and get measured for your Sicilian bespoke suit. Click here to read more about the event and RSVP.
