What to Wear With a Shearling Jacket

Posted on January 27, 2017 by Jasper Lipton

what to wear with a shearling jacket styleforum

1. Aero Coastal Command shearling jacket

2. Rocky Mountain Featherbed liner jacket from Mr. Porter

3. Folk waffle-knit crew sweater from End

5. Goodyear-welted Julius boots in vintage leather from Peter Nappi

In my mind, there are very few things warmer than shearling. Yes, you could probably argue that one of those insulated suits made for climbing Everest is warmer than a shearling jacket, but you’re about as likely to own one of those as you are to wear it on any given day, even if you do own one. And, like most of your wardrobe, the continued popularity of the shearling bomber jacket is due to its presence in military uniform. Various military forces have adopted shearling at different points in history, but shearling is now perhaps most recognizable in bomber jacket form.

The most common models you’ll see are based on the US B3 and B6 jacket. These jackets were a very effective – but expensive – way for high-flying bomber pilots to stay warm, and were often accompanied by shearling overpants, gloves, and caps (the B6 being the lighter-weight, less bulky derivative for fighter pilots in smaller cockpits). Not only did they offer great insulation at freezing temperatures, but they would, in theory, keep the pilots alive were they shot down over open water. As rare as it is now to find someone wearing a full shearling suit, the jackets are still available in both vintage, repro, and updated form.

The one pictured here is not a USAAF jacket, but an R.A.F “Coastal Command” jacket, manufactured to original specifications by Aero Leathers. As you can see, the hood has been painted yellow – again, this was meant to serve as an indicator when searching for (hopefully) floating pilots. In addition, I think that the details visible on this later model – zipped cuffs, a belted waist – make it a touch more modern and, when worn outside the context of a war, rakish – than some of the American models.

Despite plenty of hi-tech advances in staying warm, sheepskin is still plenty effective (and popular), and you’re not limited to recognizably military-inspired models. They are, however, maybe the best for layering. Because when the temperature dips past freezing and it’s really, really cold out, you’re not going to wear just a shirt under your shearling jacket.

I’ve actually taken to wearing an Arcteryx Atom LT hoodie under a shearling (or coat) when it’s freezing which, admittedly, is not hugely fashionable. A better option is a quilted liner jacket like this one from Rocky Mountain Featherbed, especially since since it’s made of super-light and super-warm goose down. The combination of sheepskin and goose down is very, very warm, and if you add a sweater underneath you’ll be set even for nighttime. Uniqlo has a cheaper option, but you miss out on the feeling of wearing a cloud.

what to wear with a shearling jacket styleforum

My usual take on a two-piece Coastal Command outfit: shearling jacket from Cloak, insulated hoodie from Arcteryx, Evan Kinori 4 pocket twill pants, and Nonnative boots.

One thing to keep in mind when wearing a shearling jacket is that ultra-slim jeans don’t often look great due to the volume of the jacket (and the bulk of the layers beneath it), and trousers don’t really fit with such a utilitarian garment either. Most of the time I like looser denim of the ‘slim straight’ variety, which tend to be more in style now anyway, but when it’s freezing it’s nice to have a little extra room for insulation or even for a base layer (REI or even Costco have plenty – I like a wool blend). For example, this pair of four-pocket pants from Evan Kinori are even based on a USN overpant, which work particularly well if you’re after a fuller, more repro-inspired silhouette. I bought a pair last summer in indigo twill

Finally, my footwear barely changes no matter what the weather’s doing, so a good pair of leather boots is always nice to have on hand. These, from Peter Nappi fit the bill. We had the chance to see some of their wares in person at Pitti, and I think they’re very nice. I also like the way slightly more relaxed pants look with slim boots like this, especially since you can let the fabric break against the boot or roll them up with a thick cuff. It makes for an interesting look, I think. Of course, something like SF favorite Viberg would do great, as would a heavier engineer or moto boot.

Regardless, if you’ve spent any time on the forum you may have noted that I love to wear shearling jackets over a simple tee shirt. That said, it’s worth remembering that shearling (and, of course, wool) is one natural fiber that really can stand up to the worst that mother nature has to offer. This trinity – shearling, wool, and down – works best when these individual powers are combined, like the Captain Planet of staying really, really warm. If you live anywhere with seasons, I’d wager you’ll get a lot of use out of all of the above.

Oh, and if you’re after a US Military jacket, Aero makes those too. I happen to think that a painted shearling hood would be a great thing to have on hand, though.

An Outfit For Pitti Uomo 91

Posted on January 8, 2017 by Styleforum Editors

We guarantee that you’ll see at least one person wearing this exact outfit when you’re browsing the media feeds from next week’s Pitti Uomo 91, so even if you’re not going, we figured we’d give you the information you need to look as though you are. Let’s start at the top:

1. Eidos hunting jacket from No Man Walks Alone

If you want to get blogged, you need stand out outerwear. Well, that’s not true. If you want to get blogged, you need to be wearing something ridiculous – which this jacket isn’t. It is, however, ridiculously nice; the kind of jacket that you’ll reach for 9 times out of 10. And it’s perfect for wearing over a sweater and a tee or a tailored shirt.

2. Chimala denim shirt from Mr. Porter

Chambray has been a hit for a few seasons now, and a full-on western shirt is a more casual version of the same. We like this version from Chimala, which is neither too precious nor too rugged.

3. Eleventy cargo pant from Stanley Korshak

Tailored cargo pants are another item that’s not new to the #menswear circuit, but soft cotton and a hint of stretch make this pair from Eleventy the perfect match for a tailored jacket or casual outerwear. And if you really are headed to Pitti Uomo, you’ll enjoy the added comfort and utility of an extra pocket for your chapstick.

4. Braided leather belt from Brooks Bros.

Simple accessories can go a long way, and the added texture that comes from a braided leather belt is a nice bridge between the denim shirt and the sharp-but-casual trousers. Besides, it’s the kind of item that will see a lot of use in your wardrobe, no matter what you’re wearing.

5. J. Fitzpatrick Westlake button boot

We’re big fans of J. Fitzpatrick’s classic-with-a-modern-twist line of footwear, and this par of button boots is an absolute stand-out. Wear them with a suit, wear them with your favorite jeans – hell, wear them with a pair of slim-cut cargo pants. You’re certain to cut a fine figure in a sea of double-monks.

There you have it. You’re ready to watch Pitti from the Fortezza, or from your computer screen. On that note, make sure you’re following Styleforum on Instagram, because next week we’ll be keeping you up-to-date on all the goings-on from Florence.

A 2016 Hangover Outfit

Posted on January 1, 2017 by Styleforum Editors

hangover outfit styleforum

As we finally wave goodbye to 2016 and watch it dwindle in the rearview mirror, it’s not a bad idea to face the New Year (and any lingering headaches) with a sense of humor. In that spirit, we’ve put together a 2016/2017 hangover outfit that’s a combination of predictions for the year ahead, as well as a gesture to the one that just came to an end.

Let’s start with shoes. Zespa became a forum favorite overnight, thanks to clean design and some very timely sales shared in the Official Sales Alert thread. Expect to see a lot of these in 2017, as people grow ever more bored of Common Projects. We’re certain that, along with Zespa, ESK knits will continue to grow in popularity on the forum, especially since there hasn’t been a de facto piece of required knitwear since the SNS Herning “Stark.”

Second, track pants have been making another weird resurgence, thanks both to the continued rise of athleisure and some canny marketing on the part of several large streetwear brands. Kappa, in particular, featured at Gosha Rubchinskiy’s s/s2017 show this past June at Pitti Uomo, and we wouldn’t be surprised if the 90’s logo’d side tape makes a comeback as hype for nostalgia brands reaches a fever pitch. On that note, don’t forget your Calvin Klein branded trunks, which are ideal for showing off over of the top of your track pants.

Finally, a printed shirt and a really loud coat will give your hangover outfit the presence it needs to let your admirers know that you don’t take yourself too seriously. And combined with everything else, it’s a mishmash so calculated you’re bound to end up on at least one streetstyle blog, because even in 2017, those are still a thing.

You see, this year is going to be the year of the ignoring individual trends in favor of showing a middle finger to your Instagram followers. We’re all looking for the visual long-tail-keyword to define our individual fashion alt-text, and specificity – both on social media and in our wardrobe choices – is the new meta. So wear what you want to wear, and damn the consequences.

A Holiday Outfit in Bad Taste

Posted on December 25, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

outfit in bad taste

If you’ve followed any of my forum ramblings over the last few months – or took the time to read yesterday’s article – you may have noticed that I’m struggling with the idea of good taste as it relates to the Great Machine that is Fashion. And more recently, I’ve bee struggling with the very existence of ugly Christmas sweaters, which I loathe. Since I refuse to buy one of the latter, I thought I’d try to put together a look that was nonetheless a silent middle finger directed firmly at the holiday season. I’ll share it with you here – you’re welcome in advance.

First: velvet. Really expensive velvet, because the holidays are about spending money. This Berluti DB jacket will look even better if you refuse to button it. As the one gesture of obeisance to the Rules, I’ve included the very necessary linen pocket square, without which no iGent would ever be caught. A cotton chambray bib-front shirt from Margiela will look fantastic under the jacket, especially when paired with an onyx bolo tie.

Pre-distressed jeans from RRL round out the vaguely Western theme we’ve stumbled into, and zip boots from Carol Christian Poell add an extra bit of unpleasantness. They’re the perfect boot to wear with an outfit that makes no sense – remember to consume conspicuously, my friends. While these aren’t black lizard cowboy boots, they’re fulfill a similar purpose while hopefully looking less polished. And since you’re not cool enough to wear them in the first place, it doesn’t matter that they’re always sold out everywhere.

Finally, Tom Fords syrupy Black Orchid also reeks of sex and money. I’m a big fan of Tom Ford fragrances, although they’re about as far from “meek” as you can get. They’re big, juicy, and in-your-face – kind of like the rest of this ensemble. I think the whole thing is absolutely perfect for your next holiday party.

The only problem is that after picking all of this stuff out, I want to wear it head-to-toe. I figured I was crazy or suffering from burnout, but after sending the above to both Arianna and Fok, they both informed me that the outfit looks pretty awesome. Maybe I’m on to something here. Here are the details:

1. Velvet DB jacket by Berluti

2. Slim narrow destroyed jeans by RRL

3. Margiela cotton chambray bib shirt

4. Carol Christian Poell zip boots

5. Bolo tie

6. Linen pocket square by Kent Wang

7.Tom Ford Black Orchid

What to Wear When It’s Sunny and Cold

Posted on December 18, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

It can be tough to know what to wear when it’s sunny and cold. Too many layers, and you’ll end up sweaty and then freezing. Too few, and you might as well spend the whole day inside. Since sunny winter days are best spent in the great outdoors (or at least out of the house), let’s go over an outfit that will keep you happy no matter what you’re up to.

First, you don’t want anything to be too tight. That kills your insulation, and you end up, well, sweaty and freezing. In this case, that slouchy streetwear look has a temperature-regulating benefit. So the outerwear – this beautiful cracked pepper slouch coat from De Bonne Facture – isn’t too heavy, which means that even if you pop into a coffee shop you don’t instantly overheat. Most of the warmth comes from a hefty rollneck, and cream is a great choice for wintry days when the sun’s out.

Since we’re going for a look that’s light but still tailored, we’ve opted for slim trousers from Styleforum favorite Blue Blue Japan as opposed to denim. The rich indigo hues are more compelling than a faded blue when worn with sharper clothing, and let’s face it – they’ll be more comfortable than your heavy jeans. On the feet, a leather sneaker with a robust sole will keep your feet happy while you’re moving around, and the details on this pair from Lanvin will keep you from looking like a slob when you’re too lazy to wear lace-up boots.

Finally, don’t forget the details. We’re big fans of oversized scarves that can be wrapped around the neck or draped over the shoulders, like this beauty from Suzusan. Cashmere-lined gloves offer a good compromise between weight and warmth, and are perfectly suited for days when you don’t have to do any shoveling. Finally, the winter is no time to ignore protective eyewear, and Dries van Noten’s ongoing collaborations with Linda Farrow are stylish and versatile.

To top it all off, try a winter scent that’s as bright and chilly as the weather. De Bachmakov, from The Different Company, smells of snowmelt, icy streams, and frozen sunlight; cedar, coriander, and white freesia combine to form a foundation that’s rich, compelling, and perfect for a sunny winter’s day. You’ll look great, you’ll smell great, and you’ll be ready to spend the day enjoying all the sunlight you can.

1. De Bonnie Facture slouch coat from Unionmade

2. Turtleneck from Maison Margiela

3. Blue Blue Japan trousers from Matches Fashion

4. Lanvin cap-toe sneakers from Browns

5. Suzusan stole from No Man Walks Alone

6. Tod’s cashmere-lined gloves from Mr. Porter

7. Dries van Noten sunglasses from Oki-Ni

8. De Bachmakov perfume from Luckyscent

One Velvet Blazer, Two Looks

Posted on December 4, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

Ralph Lauren “Connery” Velvet Jacket

Kamakura semi-spread shirt

Tom Ford silk pocket square

Ralph Lauren Tux Trouser

“Majestic Black” Bow Tie from Le Noued Papillon

Belgian Shoes “Henri” in Patent

A velvet blazer is great for the winter season. First of all, velvet is warm. That’s a good thing when it’s cold out. Second, it looks fantastic in the dark, and in the winter it’s dark all the damn time. Third, a velvet blazer is surprisingly versatile. You can wear it casually with jeans, or you can take the same piece and wear it to a black tie event. That includes all occasions in between; like, say, an office party, entertaining at home, a night out for cocktails, or just a nice dinner with your partner.

So, we’ve taken the same Ralph Lauren navy velvet blazer and given you two ways to wear it. In the first, the classic combination of black, white, and navy is perfect for any holiday party. The key to not looking like a dust-covered relic while wearing a velvet blazer is to keep things slim. Your clothes needn’t be skin-tight, but we’d certainly recommend hemming the trousers so that they end without breaking atop your loafers. Finishing off the look with a classic silk bow tie makes the deep navy of velvet stand out further, while a gentle touch of white at the chest pocket keeps you from blending into the night entirely. All that’s left for you to do is act the part.

Ralph Lauren “Connery” Velvet Jacket

Kamakura semi-spread shirt

Tom Ford silk pocket square

Saint Laurent mid-rise raw-edge black jeans

Prada Side-Zip Boots

On the more casual side, a velvet blazer is perfect for looking like a louche degenerate in the best of ways. Unbutton the shirt, ditch the tie, stuff the pocket square (instead of folding), and go all-out with raw-hemmed skinny jeans. Mid- or high-rise denim lets you keep the shirt tucked, and slim black boots are a elegant-but-snarky way to tie the outfit together – and they’re better for walking around than patent loafers. Just keep sidewalk salt off of them, and you’ll be set for the whole season.

Sunday Styles: Autumn Travels

Posted on November 20, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

styleforum sunday styles autumn travels outfit grid

We’re calling this “Autumn Travels,” but really we could call it “Styleforum’s favorite brands,” because this outfit grid showcases some fall styles from a few of the most popular brands on the forum. Eidos, RRL, Yuketen, Anderson’s, and Christian Kimber are all ever-present forum standbys, while Todd Snyder is a reliable source of tailored-casual clothing. We do try to hit both the tailored and casual spectrums when we put these suggestions together, but something about the weather turning just makes all of us want to cozy up in comfy layers and look at the leaves that are still whirling about on the ground.

Not all travels involve planes, trains, or automobiles. Sometimes you have to get outside and explore your own backyard before the ever-decreasing daylight traps you inside for three months, and this is the perfect outfit for letting your feet guide you. A navy jacket over a band-collar shirt is a great casual look, and chambray is a fabric that looks fantastic when worn wrinkled and comfy-like. When combined with olive trousers it’s very worldly – roll the hem (don’t cuff) of the pants up a few inches to show off Yuketen’s great moc-toed desert boots, turn up the collar of the jacket, stuff your hands in your pockets, and spend the day strolling around with hot cocoa in hand.

There’s a lot to be said for simple color combinations, and navy, green, and brown is about as simple as you can get. Add some texture with a woven belt, a pop of color with a lazily-stuffed pocket square, and you’ll look great no matter where your travels take you, whether you’re headed around the world or just down the street.

Sunday Styles: Full Synthese

Posted on November 13, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

styleforum full synthese outfit grid style guide style grid

What is the Full Synthese? Indulge me, if you will. Going Full Synthese is when you shamelessly wear head-toe toe Japanese hobo-chic brands, put on your favorite pair of sunglasses, and spend half the day at the coffee shop writing sestinas before cracking open a beer at noon. The magic of this that you look so over-the-top that people’s eyes just glaze over and you kind of disappear in front of them. Then you can go back to your sestina without having to make small-talk with people who would otherwise be drooling over your dope threads.

First, chunky cardigan. Spare me the Dude quotes, and just embrace wearing a wool blanket. The weather is perfect for it. This needs to by something with an eye-catching pattern as opposed to a solid, which would be far too respectable to fit with the look we’re going for. Second, an indigo-dyed shirt for added authenticity. Third, Kapital Century denim, because you can never have too much sashiko in your life. Then some chunky, undyed leather boots, which you show off by wearing a single, huge cuff on your denim. Finally, a heavy leather belt, as you may remember from Styleforum ca. 2008-9. For patina.

This is perfect for the weather these days. Wearning a good chunky cardigan is very similar to wearing a warm oven, except more comortable and of course much more stylish. Just keep in mind that you have to accessorize with a dire lack of sleep, a to-go coffee cup, and the lack of a shower. Trust me: once you go Full Synthese, you’ll be loathe to dress like any other mildly well-known Styleforum member.

1. RRL Heavy Cardigan

2. Blue Blue Japan Cotton Dobby Shirt

3. Kapital “Okabilly” Century Denim

4. Hender Scheme MIP-14

5. Tanner Goods Standard Belt

Sunday Styles: Brown, Blue, and Green

Posted on November 6, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

outfit-grid-13

Brown, blue, and green make a great combination, and after taking some time this week to discuss the utility of the brown blazer, we thought we’d share an autumn-appropriate outfit that makes use of some of our advice. In this case, the colors are soft and seasonal, as are the textures. This is not a “formal” outfit, but the type of ensemble that is appropriate 90% of the time. Note the classic touches – such as the blue button-down – combined with some less classic elements – an eye catching pocket square, for example, and a jacket that’s neither boring nor too loud.

Man on the Move, Paris: A Menswear Outfit

Posted on October 23, 2016 by Fok-Yan Leung

One thing that I love about the way Parisian men dress is the use of simple, often iconic pieces, to create very simple, but sharp, outfits. And in quite a few cases, I’ve seen French men take the best from an international mix of makers, and make them their own by combining all the pieces expertly.

Here is an outfit based on one I saw in the Air France Lounge at CDG on the way back from our trip to Paris Mens Fashion Week last winter. There was a taxi strike starting the day we were slated to leave, so we got the last shift of cabs to avoid and a good scarf and gloves elevates itany issues. Five hours in an airport is too long for anyone, but luckily, we got a good breakfast and some decent people watching. Thanks, www.mytravalet.com for boosting us up to Business Class so that the boredom of our wait was mitigated by good croissants in the lounge and good surreptitious snapshots of the other lucky people.

A sharp coat is the basis of this outfit and a good scarf and gloves elevates it. Here, the classic blue Crombie coat evokes the modish looks of the 60s. Paraboot, from France, makes some of the best shoes for business travel – they are sensible shoes for the stylish man.

1. Classic “retro” Crombie Coat with contrasting lining, 895 GBP from Crombie.

2. Loro Piana Scarf – just enough color to stand out, $635 ftom www.mrporter.com

3. Peccary gloves by Merola in cork (no need to hide your hands), 185 GBP from www.exquistetrimmings.com

4. Reeves Navy Blue Flannel suit, custom made. Available by special order from www.reeves-nyc.com

5. White shirt by Brooks Brothers, $185 from www.brooksbrothers.com – An oxford cloth shirt is the perfect shirt for business travel – always have an extra change in your carryon. I really don’t think that anyone does a traditional, minimal, oxford cloth shirt with no embellishments, like the American classic

6. Chocolate Grenadine Tie by Chipp Neckwear, $55 from www.chippneckwear.com – a NYC stalwart throwback.

7. Briefcase by Pierpoint Leather, by commission, at www.pierpontleather.com

8. Paraboot shoes Oscar Patine scotch, approximately 420 Euros. At Paraboot locations throughout the world, or inquire at www.paraboot.com

9. Brunello Cucinelli medallion pocket square, $185 at www.mrporter.com

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