One of the standout pieces for FW 2012 season was Isaia’s peaked lapel, camel topcoat in Panno Casentino fabric, the yarn of which, as was explained to me, is roughly brushed before looming, so that the dense woven fabric comes off the loom with a rough, pre-pilled, look.
The mark of Isaia
The Isaia crew had a great strategy. When you are being plied wine and really great food, including some some of the best pickled mushrooms in olive oil I’ve eaten in a while, you are going to inspect every piece very carefully, especially when the alternative were overpriced Italian “toast” sandwiches, essentially a single, thin, slice of meat between two pieces of bread. Even without all the help, I would still have noticed this piece, the texture of which immediately jumps out.
Later in the day, we saw the fabric again in a green coat with a much more conservative cut and turnback cuffs at Liverano&Liverano. While Pete was busy talking to Taka in the back, Stephanie (the Styleforum sales rep) and I took a load off in some very comfortable chairs, and chatted with Mr. Liverano’s daughter, who had been working at the shop for 20 years. “My father told me, either I go to school, or I work. So I work. 20 years.” I suppose that it’s as good a way as any to choose a career, especially when your father is one of the foremost tailors in Florence.
Liverano & Liverano #ogflorence #turnbackcuffs #pannocasentino
She told us that Panno Casentino was a very famous material from Florence. It is known for its durability and natural water resistance. Tuscany being one of the cooler, wetter, regions in Italy, it’s nice to not be soaked. Very practical, and though Italy doesn’t really get winter except in the far north, I suppose that 50 degrees (F) would be cold enough for me to enjoy the awesome Italian tradition of a coffee and pastry eaten at the bar, in the late afternoon, while wearing my Panno Casentino coat.
The next day, we saw the same fabric in a coat from Our Legacy, a brand from Sweden, where clothing that holds up against winter is actually necessary. I suppose that this might be a microtrend in the making.
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