The Best Shoes for Rainy and Snowy Weather

“Watch out for that first step, it’s a doozie.” Winter weather comes and goes, repeating itself every year. While many of us love layering, wearing coats, heavy flannels, tweeds, and the like, sometimes it feels like it is a Groundhog day every day, every winter. With the snow, the rain, the sleet and ice, we have to be more cautious with our footwear, in order to protect it and ensure it sees its maximum lifespan. As such some shoes are better than others for tempo di merda, so here are some examples of what I consider the best shoes for rainy and snowy weather.

With the recent inclement weather throughout Europe and the US, you are bound to see some wear on your soles, especially if you accidentally wear leather soles out and don’t realize it’s going to seemingly spontaneously hail and rain in the “ever sunny” Los Angeles. Even if you escape the season’s unpredictable rain, you might just step right into one of those puddles that appear shallower than they actually are as you are crossing the street. Let’s start by acknowledging that there is no such thing as waterproof shoes (unless we consider rubber Wellingtons an acceptable footwear option). However, the good news is you can invest in shoes made for inclement weather, like the infamous, and forum favorite, L.L. Bean Boots. Originally designed in 1912, the boots have long protected feet from wet environments for over a hundred years. They are probably one of your best bets for winter storms in the American Midwest or Northeast, seeing as they won’t look completely out of place.

Sometimes, you need or want something a bit more elegant: for this reason, rubber-soled shoes are a popular option since they work reasonably well in winter weather. Although many people might prefer a Dainite sole for a dressier look (when compared to a commando-style sole made by Vibram), Dainite soles are not optimal for wet weather since they provide little in way of increased traction–they are marginally better than leather soles at best. However, the Dainite sole helps to prevent wear to the sole of the shoe, increasing the lifespan tremendously. Because they are rubber, even though they are not high grip on wet surfaces, they work well in light snow or preventing water from getting into the cork bed or upper. I have a pair of Loake 1880 Chukka boots with Dainite soles which is my go-to travel shoe when I’m uncertain what the weather might be, seemingly because they are casual enough to be worn with denim, but elegant enough to go with odd trousers.

DAINITE SOLE
Loake 1881 “Kempton” Chukka Boots
Allen Edmonds Strand Cap-toe Oxford

 

If your style leans toward streetwear, you could look for something with more traction: I would consider a Vibram branded sole or a commando-style sole. The commando-style sole has all the lugs to provide extra grip, which add more visual weight to the sole, providing heavier-chunky appearance that belongs with streetwear more than tailoring. However, that isn’t to say you probably can’t find a place in your wardrobe for a pair of Alden with a commando sole to go with some moleskin or corduroy pants. These are excellent for heavier snow and provide the protection and grip that you need when the weather is at its worst. In addition, the higher sole helps provide more distance between your leather upper and the salted ground.

STREETWEAR APPROVED
Alden “Indy” Boots
Cobbler Union “Miquel” wholecut

If boots are your thing, but you prefer classic style, you’ll want something that is a bit more pragmatic than leather-soled boots when the streets are wet and slippery. That said, those of us who want something a bit more sophisticated and elegant -but still need grip or water protection- might consider a pair of boots such as these from Cobbler Union that feature studded combination leather and high-density rubber sole. The soles have some minor lugs set into it, which help to break up the flat surface and provide traction; simultaneously, the upper part of the sole and the welt are leather, contributing to the elegant look of the boot.

DRESSIER BOOTS FOR INCLEMENT WEATHER
Cobbler Union “Guillaume”
Tricker’s “Stowe” with double leather

Not all stitched soles are created equal. The stitching methods favored by the Italians, Blake method stitches the outer directly to the upper and insole, leaving out a welt, and thereby permit more water into a shoe. In Blake-rapid stitching, there is slightly more waterproofing on account that there are two stitches like in a Goodyear welted shoe (separating the stitching channels for the shoes): the Blake stitch that goes between the midsole, outer and insole, with the rapid stitch that stitches the midsole to an outsole. By adding in a midsole, the stitching for the inner part of the shoe is not exposed to the elements from the bottom sole as much as in Blake constructed shoes. Goodyear welted shoes, on the other hand, see the sole attached to a piece (oftentimes made of leather) called a welt, which acts as a medium for stitching between the upper and the sole. Besides allowing for easily repaired soles in the United States and UK, the welting process helps keep water out of the footbed.
You might further consider waterproofing your welted shoes by seeking out stormwelts on Goodyear welted shoes. In this case, the manufacturer puts a storm welt on the shoe when performing a welt-stitch (either handmade or Goodyear welted). The storm welt is a wider piece that bends to create a seal between the upper and the midsole. These are seen oftentimes on shoes from makers like Tricker’s.
A final stitching method that provides the most waterproofing is the Norwegian stitch. You now see Norvegese construction more often on the work of higher end Italian shoemakers (in terms of quality, not “designer” priced). The Norwegian construction features two stitching lines, one which connects the welt, upper and insole, and the other connecting the welt upper and sole. When joined together, they create an even more closed channel, helping to further keep water out of the shoe.

IT’S ALL ABOUT THE STITCHING
Heschung “Richmond” with Norwegian welt
Grenson “Fred” with triple welt construction

Finally, you might be stubborn and wear leather soled shoes everywhere. If that’s you, I encourage you to invest in galoshes. In environments with snow and salted roads, the galoshes serve to protect your leather from salt stains. Swims makes a good pair of galoshes that can go around the leather soled shoes and provide protection from the elements, helping to extend the lifespan of your shoe. You can keep a pair in the office or in your car so that you’re not caught unprepared in case of unexpected showers. However, I will warn you that they do not have the best traction on slightly slick surfaces. I’ve slipped and fallen walking in them when I was walking over metal grates. A commando sole will be better for traction.

IF EVERYTHING ELSE FAILS, CONSIDER SHOE CONDOMS
Swims Classic Galoshes
Tingley Overshoe

In the end, the lesson here–just like when I’ve stepped into that bottomless puddle–might just be to pay a bit more attention to where you step.

 


 

Please note that a correction was made to clarify Blake vs Blake-rapid construction.

How to Wear a Light Colored Suit This Spring

classic hollywood colors for spring style hollywood style styleforum how to wear a light colored suit

 


When the weather’s spitting, most men turn to dark colors – navy, black, and charcoal – out of a fear of raindrops, mud, and cars driving through puddles. While there’s nothing wrong with that, it does mean that it’s sometimes just as easy to get locked into a spring wardrobe the same way as can happen during winter. With that in mind, we propose a light colored suit for springtime.

First, it’s a nice way to break up the monotony of winter. Second, khaki, beige, or ivory has a touch of old Hollywood about it, which – and this is important – makes it fun in a way other things aren’t.  In this case, we’ve chosen a beige, easy-wearing patch-pocket model from Camoshita, which certainly skews toward the casual. That gives you the option to lose the tie, which we all know is important in springtime, because who wants to wear a tie when the tulips are coming up?

Of course, to fully embrace the monochromatic look, we suggest giving a nod to unpredictable weather by wearing a classic Mackintosh. With a belt and a collar that can be turned up against the elements, you won’t be making any stylistic concessions the next time it rains – by which we mean: please stop wearing your gore-tex jacket over a suit. Thank you.

Finally, after you’ve picked your pocket square, a light scent such as Frédéric Malle’s Geranium Pour Monsieur is a nice finishing touch to match your light color palette. This one smells about as fresh as a spring shower, and opens with a pleasant blend of geranium, mint, and star anise, that later gives way to a suggestion of musk and sandalwood. Like the clothing we’ve picked, it’s a welcome burst of brightness after a long winter.

The next time you find yourself pining for some uplifting clothing, try a light colored suit and a tonal ensemble. It’s a great way to embrace springtime, and if you’re anything like us, you’ll find yourself clicking your heels as you hop over puddles.


1. Camoshita beige blazer – $880 at Mr. Porter 

2. Camoshita beige trousers (matching) – $340 at Mr Porter

3. Kamakura “Tokyo Slim” striped shirt – $89 at Kamakura

4. Mackintosh belted cotton coat – 725 GBP at Trunk Clothiers

5. Alden chukka in snuff suede – $528 at Lawrence Covell

6. Drake’s pocket square – $90 at Supply and Advise

7. Frédéric Malle, “Geranium Pour Monsieur” – $270 at Barneys

The Week’s Best Styleforum Classifieds Listings

Every week, enterprising Styleforum member @razl takes time out of his busy schedule to search for what he can call the best of Styleforum’s classifieds. Out of that glittering company, we’ve picked our five favorites to share.


1. Brand New Gaziano & Girling St. James in UK 9 – 900 EUR (800 EUR without shoe trees)

Let’s start off with two pairs of stunners – two brand new pairs of G&G St. James in size UK 9. These beauties come in the wider “F” last, so if you’ve got wider feet and you’re looking to save some money on a pair (or two) of fantastic shoes, look no further.

Sold by @Jamestct 


2. ZILLI Brown Suede Belted Coat with Nutria Collar & Muskrat Lining (size s/m) – $2,850

Whoa. Talk about a stunner – this full suede coat with a hefty fur lining is a once-in-a-lifetime find, and with proper care it’ll last you just as long. Wear it open with a pair of well-worn jeans and casual boots, or over a jacket and trousers. Either way – holy damn.

Sold by @Brianpore


3. Isaia Jackets (various sizes and colors) – $699-$999 (trousers for $105)

Isaia’s known for bold patterns and colors – as well as great fit and construction. This is your chance to snag a deal on some beautiful, eye-catching pieces, at prices far lower than retail. Jump on it!

Sold by @gyasih


4. BNIB Alden Straight Tip Medallion Boots, #8 Shell Cordovan, Grant last, US 9.5D – $750

Best Styleforum Classifieds Listings

Another fantastic pair of shoes popped up this week – these Aldens in gorgeous shell cordovan are the perfect boot for jeans or trousers, and the legendary New England craftsmanship will take you all over the world in perfect style.

Sold by @hoodog


5. NWT Dents “Keswick” silk-lined gloves, sizes 9 & 10 – $55

Best Styleforum Classifieds Listings

Finally, Dents’ gloves are legendary by any standard, and finding a pair for half off retail is a dream. Wear them with anything, anywhere, anytime – not only will your hands be warm, but you’ll get that great, self-satisfied feeling that only comes from wearing luxurious accessories.

Sold by @jreigen


To see @razl’s full list, click here

Styleforum’s Favorite Brands

Styleforum has a lot of “favorite” brands. They wax and wane in popularity over the course of months or years, and because of the diversity of our members these brands range from the rigidly conservative to the breathtakingly avant garde. Although this isn’t a complete list, it does capture a snapshot of some up-and-comers alongside a number of old standbys. Let’s take a look at Styleforum’s favorite brands, and what they say about us – the people who love to wear them.


Alden

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Epaulet

The Dream: You’re a globe-trotting gentleman-explorer, and your footwear reflects that. No matter the occasion, you’re always well put-together – but you never stick out. Several people have referred to you as “dashing.”

The Reality: You spend more time applying leather-care product to your massive collection of Alden shoes than you do wearing them.


Brooks Brothers

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Brooks Brothers

The Dream: Your life is a perfect blend of work and play. You roll up your chinos and play tag football on the lawn. You are happy and content, your collar roll is always immaculate, and you spend your summers vacationing on the Vineyard.  You know it’s gotten crowded but you just can’t imagine going anywhere else – you’ve made such meaningful connections.

The Reality: You have recently discovered that penny loafers don’t go with everything. You constantly talk about how “real men wear pink,” but you’re uncomfortable and fidgety every time you do. Recently, you have begun to fear that people find you boring.

 


Carol Christian Poell

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

The Dream: You curate a minimalist gallery in a European city. Or if not a gallery, you curate a hugely popular photo-slash-contemporary philosophy website with descriptions of each photo posted in all caps. You curate something. People admire your taste.

The Reality: Upwards of five people owned your “collection” before you. You rarely wear any of it, and when you do, you remember why you don’t. You think about selling all of it constantly, but worry that you won’t be able to make back what you paid. You wonder why you don’t just start curating sweatpants instead. You have begun to suspect that no one cares about your moody photography.


 

Christian Kimber

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Christian Kimber

The Dream: You’re a free spirit, the kind of guy who spends weekends at destination flea markets looking for antiques to furnish the quirky studio apartment you keep in a neat, artsy neighborhood. You ride your skateboard to the coffee shop every morning; not to work, but to read several Very Interesting Books every week. Your signature touch is a giant scarf. You eat a lot of noodles.

The Reality: You’re an internet hobbyist who spends his days browsing web-stores.

 


Eidos Napoli

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Eidos

The Dream: You are an Italian bon vivant who has excellent hair and rides a scooter through the hills of Tuscany.

The Reality: You got the suit 40% off  at Bloomingdales. Sometimes, guys at work ask if you have an interview.  Now you mostly wear it for your Instagram. You have 200 followers.


 

Engineered Garments

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Stitched and Stitched

The Dream: You make a living as a travel correspondent, and spend your days fishing, surfing, and hiking with your group of friends and photogenic dogs. All of you carry vintage film cameras – even the dogs. You routinely get your fancy clothing very dirty, but you don’t care. Sometimes candid photos of you appear in Japanese style magazines, with captions like “How to live a care-free life.”

The Reality: Your apartment doesn’t allow dogs, and people wonder why you’re always wearing the same jacket and carrying a camera around.

 


 

Kapital

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Kapital

The Dream: You are a carefree artistic type, a creative director at an independent magazine. You are well-read and your friends are regularly featured in iD magazine.

The Reality: On the street, people wonder if you are homeless.  You tell your friends you got it all on sale so that they won’t ridicule you for the prices you paid. You secretly wish you lived in Japan and owned an Indigo dye-house.


 

Robert Geller

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Barney’s

The Dream: You spend your time drinking ironic beer on urban rooftops around the world with your friends, all of whom are models, photographers, and graphic designers. You just launched a fashion magazine that has disrupted the industry and brought you several publisher’s accolades.

The Reality: You have three bomber jackets in your closet. You never know what to wear with any of them.

 


 

Suit Supply

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Suit Supply

The Dream: You are a successful young entrepreneur. You are stylish and always up-to-date on the latest New Yorker. You have respected opinions on everything from art to the economy to the state of the Great Barrier Reef.

The Reality: People wonder why your pants are so tight, and most women you meet find you just creepy enough to avoid. Your boss thinks you spend too much time looking in the mirror.

 


 

 

Visvim

Styleforum's Favorite Brands

Photo: Antik Boutik

The Dream: You drive a vintage Defender, and all of your most precious belongings can fit into a single well-worn duffle bag. You live authentically. You eat interesting street food all over the world. You laugh constantly. Visvim is the only brand in your closet.

The Reality: You talk about hating John Mayer because he’s not authentic but deep down you burn with unbearable jealousy.

10 Years of Styleforum–we celebrated in style

On May 4 and May 5, we had a celebration for our 10 year anniversary, at the W San Francisco.  Over 400 people took part in the event, which included a screening of O’Mast, our vendor showcase, and a party.

We kicked it off Friday evening with cocktails and a sneak preview of the next installment of Put This On, a video series by Jesse Thorn about dressing like a grownup, followed by the featured screening of O’Mast, an acclaimed film about Neapolitan tailors and traditions from Gianluca Migliarotti, who traveled from Milan to be with us.  From there, we proceeded to dinner at Credo, in the private dining area, where translucent walls surrounded us with statements of belief from leaders around the world and throughout time. I had the scallops, and I know that they were delicious. The night concluded with port and espresso at The Wingtip, a private club owned by the proprietors of On The Fly, a San Francisco haberdashery which also participated in our vendor showcase the following day.

On Saturday, I was up at 8 a.m. to start setup for the vendor showcase, which started at noon, sharp.  I was nervous about the turnout, but we had a  steady stream of shoppers from the moment we opened the doors.  Fifteen vendors traveled from as far away as Hawaii and New York City.  The range of vendors reflected the diverse readership of Styleforum.  Goorin Brothers, hatmakers, a San Francisco institution whose goods are sold nationwide, brought a large sample of their heritage hats. Greg Walton of Louis Walton, a one man show, demonstrated how his hand makes the ties he sells.  Yuketen, shoemakers and leathermakers, brought their famous outdoor shoes, as well as bags (always sold out, everywhere,) and accessories, from Hermosa Beach.  On the Fly and A Suitable Wardrobe, Bay Area haberdashers who adhere to impeccable standards, brought fine ties, apparel, and gentlemen’s accoutrements; and A Suitable Wardrobe brought a shoeshiner to boot.  Jimmy Au’s for men 5’8″ and Under, from Beverly Hills, brought many suits, shirts,  and jackets to serve men from just below the national average to very much under the average.  Sette ties, from Washington, D.C. showed off substantial sevenfold ties.  Epaulet, from New York City, brought a full range of their own sportscoats, shirts, trousers, and accessories, made in the USA or in Italy, as well as Carmina shoes, for whom they are the sole stockist in North America.  The Brooklyn Circus also brought its brand of urban dandyism from New York City.  The Hanger Project, a business born of Styleforum, from Texas, came with shoe care products and accessories in addition to their signature hangers; local San Francisco retailers Taylor Stitch brought shirts, jeans, and belts; and Revolver, which proprietor Robert Patterson describes as “a little hippy,” featured a DIY scarf dying booth as well as goods from anyone from Yuketen to Reigning Champ to their own line of casual clothing.  Jack Knife Outfitters took measurements for custom jeans; and Joe Hemrajani of Mytailor.com took measurements for custom suits and shirts.  Leathersoul brought an extensive number of Aldens all the way from Honolulu, as well as examples of bespoke shoes from St. Crispin and George Cleverly, rarities anywhere.

As dusk settled, we settled into eating some snacks and having an immoderate number of drinks with a few hundred of our best friends.

 

The Styleforum Reader–April 16

Lapo Elkann wearing Rubinacci in L’Uomo Vogue, via Rubinacci Club. Lapo is touching the ground in exactly half of the photos.

Hipsterpalooza: Mister Mort’s been posting Coachella style shots on his tumblr. Ladies in vintage Air Jordan teeshirts = HYFR.

Simply Refined’s Stephen Pulvirent talks ordering butterfly loafers from Ed Et Al shoes, a Singaporean custom shoemaker.

Wax/Wane gives some history on Mackintosh rainwear. Fun fact: The “k” actually stands for KFC; founder Charles Macintosh was a big original recipe fan (10).

The Corner is offering free express shipping through April 23. Get your Dsquared bathing suit in time for next weekend.

Men’s clothing classified of the day: Edward Green Dovers, tan scotch grain, recrafted, UK9.5.

Streetwear and Denim classified of the day: Alden/Steven Alan plain toe boots in suede, size 12D.

New arrivals from Cucinelli and Dries Van Noten at yoox.

“Black, or brown?” “No.”

An unusual, impractical daub of color is one way to grab the attention of casual passersby at Pitti, where orders, after all, are still dominated by tones of navy, black, khaki, and gray. But it seemed maker after maker had at least a pair of shoes (mostly brogues) that were emphatically not in compliance with conservative business dress regs. While it’s not surprising to see out-of-the-shoebox thinking from lines like Yuketen (who, in addition to new colors, used exotic skins and hair on hide calf) and ts(s) (mixed panel, poly felt brogue boots), it was matched also with the casual tailoring of Italian lines like Lubiam and Piombo.  If seeing red shoes has you seeing red, read no further.

 Aubergine and blue at Edward Green.

Green suede at Simone Righi’s Frasi shop.

Red with natural leather midsole at Lubiam.

A nonproduction sample in burgundy at Alden. I.e., they won’t be making this. Sad face.

Deep green suede with a natural welt from Yuketen.