What to Wear When It’s Sunny and Cold

Posted on December 18, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

It can be tough to know what to wear when it’s sunny and cold. Too many layers, and you’ll end up sweaty and then freezing. Too few, and you might as well spend the whole day inside. Since sunny winter days are best spent in the great outdoors (or at least out of the house), let’s go over an outfit that will keep you happy no matter what you’re up to.

First, you don’t want anything to be too tight. That kills your insulation, and you end up, well, sweaty and freezing. In this case, that slouchy streetwear look has a temperature-regulating benefit. So the outerwear – this beautiful cracked pepper slouch coat from De Bonne Facture – isn’t too heavy, which means that even if you pop into a coffee shop you don’t instantly overheat. Most of the warmth comes from a hefty rollneck, and cream is a great choice for wintry days when the sun’s out.

Since we’re going for a look that’s light but still tailored, we’ve opted for slim trousers from Styleforum favorite Blue Blue Japan as opposed to denim. The rich indigo hues are more compelling than a faded blue when worn with sharper clothing, and let’s face it – they’ll be more comfortable than your heavy jeans. On the feet, a leather sneaker with a robust sole will keep your feet happy while you’re moving around, and the details on this pair from Lanvin will keep you from looking like a slob when you’re too lazy to wear lace-up boots.

Finally, don’t forget the details. We’re big fans of oversized scarves that can be wrapped around the neck or draped over the shoulders, like this beauty from Suzusan. Cashmere-lined gloves offer a good compromise between weight and warmth, and are perfectly suited for days when you don’t have to do any shoveling. Finally, the winter is no time to ignore protective eyewear, and Dries van Noten’s ongoing collaborations with Linda Farrow are stylish and versatile.

To top it all off, try a winter scent that’s as bright and chilly as the weather. De Bachmakov, from The Different Company, smells of snowmelt, icy streams, and frozen sunlight; cedar, coriander, and white freesia combine to form a foundation that’s rich, compelling, and perfect for a sunny winter’s day. You’ll look great, you’ll smell great, and you’ll be ready to spend the day enjoying all the sunlight you can.

1. De Bonnie Facture slouch coat from Unionmade

2. Turtleneck from Maison Margiela

3. Blue Blue Japan trousers from Matches Fashion

4. Lanvin cap-toe sneakers from Browns

5. Suzusan stole from No Man Walks Alone

6. Tod’s cashmere-lined gloves from Mr. Porter

7. Dries van Noten sunglasses from Oki-Ni

8. De Bachmakov perfume from Luckyscent

Your Guide to a Very Black Tie Holiday

Posted on December 11, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

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Wearing black tie is an exercise in understated elegance. A tuxedo is not a particularly “flashy” outfit by design, which can be confusing for some due to internet #menswear’s focus on peacocking. Black tie, however, is not an occasion to push the boundaries. While there is certainly room for individual style in the way that the tux is worn, and there are now more acceptable variations in what is a very rigid code, wearing a tuxedo well is all about the details: are the elements correct? Is the fit perfect? If so, there’s a very good chance you’ll look great. And, if you are accompanied by a female companion, her outfit will stand out all the more. Here, we’ve detailed a black tie outfit that treads between the traditional and the modern for an ideal blend of elegance and convenience. Let’s go over the elements below.

1. Hackett tuxedo from Mr. Porter

This is about as classic a tuxedo as you can find, and the details are correct: the jacket has a single buttoning point, has no vent, and boasts a structured shoulder and silhouette. We’ve foregone braces in favor of trousers with side tab adjusters, for the sake of a slightly less complicated and more forgiving setup. Both jacket and trousers will require the hand of a good tailor to make themfit you perfectly, as is the case with almost all tailored clothing.

In this case, alterations are worth it, since tuxedos are not generally something one collects, and one perfect set-up will last a lifetime.

2. Sid Mashburn bib front shirt

We’ve chosen a pleated bib front shirt with a spread collar (the appropriate collar choice for black tie) as well as a button-out placket, meaning you can choose to wear it with or without studs (we suggest with). The bib extends to the bottom of the shirt, meaning it can be worn without a cummerbund for a look that is still elegant without verging on the precious.

3. Vanda Fine Clothing black satin bow tie

It’s no secret that we are huge fans of affiliate Vanda Fine Clothing’s hand-made neckwear. This black satin self-tie bow tie is the perfect accompaniment for the satin peak lapels on the jacket, and will be the only tie you need for decades of elegance.

4. Carmina wholecut oxford

Here, we’ve made another slighest of breaks from tradition, and chosen a high-sheen wholecut oxford over a patent shoe. While not quite as formal as an evening pump, an oxford is certainly acceptable, as well as a bit more forgiving for the wearer. We’ve chosen Carmina’s wholecut as it has a narrow waist and a slightly chiseled toe, and the absence of side seams elevates it above a standard oxford.

5. Onyx shirt studs from Turnbull & Asser

and

6. Kent Wang onyx cufflinks

Don’t overlook studs and cufflinks when finalizing your ensemble. This is an opportunity to add some personality to your final appearance, but that does not mean that it is an excuse or occasion for gaudy jewelry. Onyx and mother-of-pearl are both acceptable, as are gold and silver. Just make sure that you’re not mixing styles.

If you’ve nailed the list above, you’re sure to be a hit at your holiday black tie affair – or wherever your tuxedo takes you.

You’ll note that we’ve foregone braces, a cummerbund, and a pocket square. While a square is not required, should you prefer to wear one, we suggest crisp white linen. We also recommend that your forego a timepiece – even if you have a dress watch, a black tie event is an occasion for socializing, and not for worrying about the hour. Where else do you have to be?

Sunday Styles: Autumn Travels

Posted on November 20, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

styleforum sunday styles autumn travels outfit grid

We’re calling this “Autumn Travels,” but really we could call it “Styleforum’s favorite brands,” because this outfit grid showcases some fall styles from a few of the most popular brands on the forum. Eidos, RRL, Yuketen, Anderson’s, and Christian Kimber are all ever-present forum standbys, while Todd Snyder is a reliable source of tailored-casual clothing. We do try to hit both the tailored and casual spectrums when we put these suggestions together, but something about the weather turning just makes all of us want to cozy up in comfy layers and look at the leaves that are still whirling about on the ground.

Not all travels involve planes, trains, or automobiles. Sometimes you have to get outside and explore your own backyard before the ever-decreasing daylight traps you inside for three months, and this is the perfect outfit for letting your feet guide you. A navy jacket over a band-collar shirt is a great casual look, and chambray is a fabric that looks fantastic when worn wrinkled and comfy-like. When combined with olive trousers it’s very worldly – roll the hem (don’t cuff) of the pants up a few inches to show off Yuketen’s great moc-toed desert boots, turn up the collar of the jacket, stuff your hands in your pockets, and spend the day strolling around with hot cocoa in hand.

There’s a lot to be said for simple color combinations, and navy, green, and brown is about as simple as you can get. Add some texture with a woven belt, a pop of color with a lazily-stuffed pocket square, and you’ll look great no matter where your travels take you, whether you’re headed around the world or just down the street.

Sunday Styles: Full Synthese

Posted on November 13, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

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What is the Full Synthese? Indulge me, if you will. Going Full Synthese is when you shamelessly wear head-toe toe Japanese hobo-chic brands, put on your favorite pair of sunglasses, and spend half the day at the coffee shop writing sestinas before cracking open a beer at noon. The magic of this that you look so over-the-top that people’s eyes just glaze over and you kind of disappear in front of them. Then you can go back to your sestina without having to make small-talk with people who would otherwise be drooling over your dope threads.

First, chunky cardigan. Spare me the Dude quotes, and just embrace wearing a wool blanket. The weather is perfect for it. This needs to by something with an eye-catching pattern as opposed to a solid, which would be far too respectable to fit with the look we’re going for. Second, an indigo-dyed shirt for added authenticity. Third, Kapital Century denim, because you can never have too much sashiko in your life. Then some chunky, undyed leather boots, which you show off by wearing a single, huge cuff on your denim. Finally, a heavy leather belt, as you may remember from Styleforum ca. 2008-9. For patina.

This is perfect for the weather these days. Wearning a good chunky cardigan is very similar to wearing a warm oven, except more comortable and of course much more stylish. Just keep in mind that you have to accessorize with a dire lack of sleep, a to-go coffee cup, and the lack of a shower. Trust me: once you go Full Synthese, you’ll be loathe to dress like any other mildly well-known Styleforum member.

1. RRL Heavy Cardigan

2. Blue Blue Japan Cotton Dobby Shirt

3. Kapital “Okabilly” Century Denim

4. Hender Scheme MIP-14

5. Tanner Goods Standard Belt

Sunday Styles: Brown, Blue, and Green

Posted on November 6, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

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Brown, blue, and green make a great combination, and after taking some time this week to discuss the utility of the brown blazer, we thought we’d share an autumn-appropriate outfit that makes use of some of our advice. In this case, the colors are soft and seasonal, as are the textures. This is not a “formal” outfit, but the type of ensemble that is appropriate 90% of the time. Note the classic touches – such as the blue button-down – combined with some less classic elements – an eye catching pocket square, for example, and a jacket that’s neither boring nor too loud.

A Mountain-Friendly Outfit

Posted on October 30, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

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I spend a lot of time up in the mountains over the winter, in various ski towns. Some are glitzy, fur-covered; the kind where the wine list at your average restaurant is as long as the runs. Others are run-down, podunk spots – or literally gravel spots on the side of the road. I also live in a place where style tends to take a back-seat to comfort and utility, which means that I always keep one eye on versatility. Rubber soles are great to have, as are clothes that can go from walking the dogs to driving up to the mountains to going out to dinner when you get there – hence the denim and the handy scarf.

That’s where a mountain-friendly outfit such as this comes in – I don’t think an outfit in this vein would be out of place anywhere in the world, no matter where you’re skiing. And if you don’t ski, the combination of a comfortable knit with a quilted blazer means you’ll have some useful layers to fall back on as the weather turns. Chelsea boots are great for slipping on and off as you come in and out of the mudroom or car when you’re putting on your snowboots, and easy-wearing jeans are almost never out of place. Quilted blazers are their own beautiful thing, and although this example from Moncler is on the pricey side, some internet searching could very well land you with a new favorite jacket. So next time you’re planning a weekend getaway – or just a weekend outfit – give a do-anything ensemble such as this a shot. You’ll feel ready for all the fondue you can eat.

1. Moncler quilted blazer, from Mr. Porter

2. GRP roll-neck, from No Man Walks Alone

3. Shockoe Atelier “Standard Como” jean from Standard & Strange

4. Meermin Chelsea Boots

5. 19 Andreas’ 47 Chevron scarf, from Exquisite Trimmings

Man on the Move, Paris: A Menswear Outfit

Posted on October 23, 2016 by Fok-Yan Leung

One thing that I love about the way Parisian men dress is the use of simple, often iconic pieces, to create very simple, but sharp, outfits. And in quite a few cases, I’ve seen French men take the best from an international mix of makers, and make them their own by combining all the pieces expertly.

Here is an outfit based on one I saw in the Air France Lounge at CDG on the way back from our trip to Paris Mens Fashion Week last winter. There was a taxi strike starting the day we were slated to leave, so we got the last shift of cabs to avoid and a good scarf and gloves elevates itany issues. Five hours in an airport is too long for anyone, but luckily, we got a good breakfast and some decent people watching. Thanks, www.mytravalet.com for boosting us up to Business Class so that the boredom of our wait was mitigated by good croissants in the lounge and good surreptitious snapshots of the other lucky people.

A sharp coat is the basis of this outfit and a good scarf and gloves elevates it. Here, the classic blue Crombie coat evokes the modish looks of the 60s. Paraboot, from France, makes some of the best shoes for business travel – they are sensible shoes for the stylish man.

1. Classic “retro” Crombie Coat with contrasting lining, 895 GBP from Crombie.

2. Loro Piana Scarf – just enough color to stand out, $635 ftom www.mrporter.com

3. Peccary gloves by Merola in cork (no need to hide your hands), 185 GBP from www.exquistetrimmings.com

4. Reeves Navy Blue Flannel suit, custom made. Available by special order from www.reeves-nyc.com

5. White shirt by Brooks Brothers, $185 from www.brooksbrothers.com – An oxford cloth shirt is the perfect shirt for business travel – always have an extra change in your carryon. I really don’t think that anyone does a traditional, minimal, oxford cloth shirt with no embellishments, like the American classic

6. Chocolate Grenadine Tie by Chipp Neckwear, $55 from www.chippneckwear.com – a NYC stalwart throwback.

7. Briefcase by Pierpoint Leather, by commission, at www.pierpontleather.com

8. Paraboot shoes Oscar Patine scotch, approximately 420 Euros. At Paraboot locations throughout the world, or inquire at www.paraboot.com

9. Brunello Cucinelli medallion pocket square, $185 at www.mrporter.com

Sunday Styles: Sashiko Jacket

Posted on October 16, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

It’s only fitting that we showcase a sashiko jacket after this week’s feature. The deep blue of this heavy Luxire jacket looks great with earth tones – say, a chambray work shirt from Taylor Stitch and slim trousers from our long-time Canadian favorites, Wings + Horns. A lightweight hiking boot that’s equally at home on the street offers enough bulk to stand up to the jacket, and wayfarer-style sunnies, like this pair from Henry Blake, are always appropriate.

1. Heavy Sashiko Jacket from Luxire

2. Chambray Utility Shirt from Taylor Stitch

3. Wings + Horns Tokyo pant from Need Supply Co.

4. Danner x New Balance Hiking Boots from Portland Dry Goods

5. Wanderer Sunglasses from Henry Blake

Sunday Styles: Knit ‘n Easy

Posted on October 9, 2016 by Styleforum Editors

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Speaking of knit ties, let’s take a look at an easy way to embrace some color and texture for fall. Tweed sport coats pair wonderfully with knit neckwear, and a simple oxford stripe shirt with easy-wearing trousers and shoes is a simple way to look great. In this case, the green of the knit tie is subdued without being boring, and picks up the texture of the jacket.

1. Grey Tweed Sport Coat, Kent Wang

2. Drake’s Knit Tie, Gentlemen’s Footwear

3. Oxford Stripe Shirt, Epaulet

4. Rota Trousers, No Man Walks Alone

5. Warwick Single Monk, Allen Edmonds

6. Robert Jensen Pocket Square, Khaki’s of Carmel

How to Pair White Pants and a Jacket

Posted on September 9, 2016 by Jasper Lipton

Since we all know it’s just fine to wear white after Labor Day, let’s take a moment to discuss how to pair white pants and a jacket. White is an excellent choice for late summer and early fall, and is a solid staple for both daytime and casual evening looks, particularly when white trousers are paired with a jacket.

It’s a forgiving base for any combination, and if you can keep them clean they’ll be as versatile as your favorite grey trousers without any business connotations. I myself favor a no-break or even slightly cropped (not highwater) trouser hem, particularly for a lightweight pant. White or off-white trousers in heavier fabrics such as flannels (yes, you can wear white into winter) take well to a range of autumnal colors, so you can keep wearing them through the winter – just avoid slushy days.

For casual summer looks, it’s easiest to pair a lightweight or unstructured jacket, as a relaxed shape adds to the breeziness. However, that doesn’t mean that strong tailoring looks out of place with white – on the contrary, a sharp jacket – particularly a double-breasted jacket – can work equally well.

Keep in mind that a white shirt likely won’t be the best choice when wearing white pants and a jacket. I favor blues and greens, as these colors don’t immediately connote golf courses the way brighter colors – such as a pink – might. In particular, I find that a washed chambray – or even a midnight navy for an evening outfit – looks good with a wide range of jacket connotations and offers enough versatility that you don’t look as though you’re permanently stuck at a barbecue.

There are a few pitfalls to watch out for. First is to make sure you’re not wearing skin-tight pants, which is less of an issue with trousers than it is with jeans or chinos. White leggings aren’t flattering on anyone. Second, if you’re wearing linen or other lightweight trousers, do an underwear check – some fabrics tend towards translucency. And third, keep them clean. While colored trousers – and white jeans – can take some abuse and look no worse (or even better!) for it, white trousers tend to take on all the charm of a used napkin when they get dirty.

Otherwise, think of white as a blank canvas and trust your own tastes – and be sure to share your results on Styleforum’s What Are You Wearing Today thread.

If you’re in search of a starting place for your white-trousered looks, here are two suggestions to give you a push: