Nailing Trad Style with Roycru

Posted on September 24, 2017 by Styleforum Editors

You may remember Roycru from his member focus, and this week we’re looking to him for some American inspiration. It’s nice to see one of our members nailing trad style, since it’s a look that has grown rarer on Styleforum over the years. And if you, like me, aren’t often found singing the praises of ‘timeless’ style, this tidbit from Roycru should make you take notice: “People often say things like ‘nice vintage clothes’ to me. I always thank them and then mention the clothes I am wearing were new when I got them.”

It’s easy, when battered by advertising on all fronts, to forget that we really don’t need to buy new clothes every season, and that smart purchases can make for a wardrobe that lasts a lifetime. Take, for example, the gunclub sport coat featured above. No, it’s certainly not the universal constant that is the navy blazer, but look at how easily it’s worked into a great outfit that doesn’t look like it came from a cookie cutter. There’s no reason to limit yourself to the most basic of basics; what matters is finding clothing that you know you’ll wear regularly.

I’ll also note that in Roycru’s original WAYWT submission, he’s wearing very accessible brands. In a sea of bespoke Italian suits, high-end denim, and hand-made shirts, sometimes it’s refreshing to be reminded that the key to looking great isn’t necessarily to bankrupt yourself.

Fantastic Deals from the Styleforum Classifieds

Posted on September 21, 2017 by Styleforum Editors

If you haven’t checked our B&S section recently, you’re missing out. Here are some fantastic deals from the Styleforum classifieds that offer great style and great value.

Suits

: Richard James

: Sartoria Partenopea

: Orazio Luciana

: Eidos

RICHARD JAMES NAVY SEISHIN SLIM-FIT BRUSHED COTTON TWILL SUIT, SIZE 38R

Eidos Navy Solaro suit, Size 36/38s

Orazio Luciano navy blue suit, size 52

Sartoria Partenopea navy suit, size 44/46

SEE MORE SUITS

Shirts

: Eton

: Kiton

: Post-Imperial

Kiton Napoli light blue dress shirts, size 40/15.75

Eton contemporary dress shirts, size 16

SHIRTS FROM CHESTER BARRIE, ETON, HUGO BOSS, size 41/42

Post-Imperial Lagos shirt, size S

SEE MORE SHIRTS

Shoes

: St. Crispin’s

: Edward Green

: Alden

St. Crispin’s Mod 108, size 7.5F (8.5US)

Brooks Brothers #8 Cordovan Wingtip, size 9.5D

Carmina brown cap-toe oxford, size 9.5UK (10.5US)

Alden Ravello straight tip bluchers, size 11

Edward Green Berkely, size UK9 (US10)

Allen Edmonds x Massdrop unlined chukkas, size 9

Guidi Horse Leahter Backzip Boot, size 45 (fits 44)

SEE MORE SHOES

Sport Coats

: Eidos

: Orazio Luciano

Eidos x NMWA blazers, size 52L

Orazio Luciana navy shadow stripe blazer, size 54/52R

SEE MORE SPORT COATS

Bottoms

: Rota

: RRL

: Orlebar Brown

: Kapital

13 PAIRS OF BNWT ORLEBAR BROWN “BULLDOG” SWIM SHORTS – 4 COLORS – SIZES FROM 30 TO 38

Kapital Century Denim Cisco Sumi x indigo 7S, size 34

RRL Low Straight Raw Selvedge, size 33×34

Eidos linen drawstring pants

Rota x NMWA trousers, size 54

SEE MORE SHORTS AND TROUSERS

Outerwear

: Billy Reid

: Luigi Bianchi Mantova

: Isaia

: Zegna

BILLY REID LEATHER BOMBER JACKET WITH REMOVABLE SHEEPSKIN COLLAR, size S

Robert Geller Emil Bomber, size XL

Isaia Aquaspider cashmere coat, size 40

Luigi Bianchi Mantova grey coat, size 50

Zegna Couture mohair harrington, size 50

SEE MORE OUTERWEAR

Ties

: Panta

: Breuer

Panta clearance: multiple ties

Breuer scarves: blue, grey, brown

Ties: CAPPELLI, DRAKE’S, PANTA, YELLOW HOOK, TIE YOUR TIE, MARINELLA

SEE MORE ACCESSORIES

Mixing Menswear Textures with Poszetka

Posted on September 17, 2017 by Jasper Lipton

mixing menswear textures

I don’t often feature cell phone pictures, but this week I found myself really enjoying @Poszetka’s mixed textures. Tweed, denim, and denim is a great look, especially for something a bit more casual. Like Peter, I’m not a fan of ties with denim, but in this case I’ll allow it both because hey, do what you like, and because the color and texture of the tie in question works with the rest of the outfit. Indigo and tweed is a combination that always works (two heavy, interesting textures), and a Harris Tweed sport coat is one step more dressed up than a wool hunting jacket while connoting some of the same country-ready style. Grey sport coats can prove surprisingly difficult to work into your wardrobe, and tweed – or other, heavier fabrics – makes the piece a bit more versatile. Tweed works with lots of trouser fabrics, from tightly-woven cotton twills to wool or – as seen here – even denim, and if you remove the tie and put on a pair of boots, this is an outfit that’s perfect for autumn anywhere.

Although we can’t see the shoes in question, I tend to avoid leather-soled shoes (that aren’t boots) with denim. However, since there’s a tie in the mix, I think something like this Vass Budapester on a commando sole from affiliate No Man Walks Alone might work well. Other easy options would be chukkas or heavier (think Tricker’s) brogued shoes or boots. One final note is that, if you’re going to opt for thicker cuffs on your denim, I’d definitely suggest removing the tie, as I find that cuffed denim and a tie tends to either look sloppy or too much like the hipster bartender outfit du jour.

Dress for Aperitivo with An Acute Style

Posted on September 3, 2017 by Styleforum Editors

dress for aperitivo

First, an admission: @AnAcuteStyle is not in Italy. But when Arianna goes out of her way to describe a not-too-stuffy-but-still-put-together outfit suitable for aperitivo al fresco in late summer, I think it’s fair to bend the boundaries a little bit – especially when the outfit in question would be at home anywhere drinks are drunk and salty snacks are snacked.

My own experiences of aperitivo have been limited to my adventures at Pitti Uomo, and have largely taken in places patronized by men and women dressed much more nicely than myself (think of bars along the Arno, palazzos in the city center, and songstresses in floor-length gowns). AAS would fit right in with that scene – much better than I ever do. That’s because his very East-Coast American look is both sharp and soft (yes, sharp and soft) enough to pass muster on the other side of the Atlantic as well. Strong roots, if you will.

I’ve always been a fan of blue-on-blue, and if you’re traveling for your aperitivo a sport coat in navy cotton is a fantastically versatile option that can be worn on the plane or with the collar turned up against an evening chill. When the weather starts to turn – chilly in the morning and evenings – I really like denim and chambray shirts for their versatility. They look good both under a jacket and alone, and with the appropriate weave you can get that lovely crunchy-cool-but-insulating feeling of a linen shirt.

The heavy tassel loafers and O-ring belt pull the outfit more towards the American than the Italian, but I think that’s why the balance works so well. Combined with a madras ball cap (I’ll admit I couldn’t find one in stock to link to), you’ll be ready to pursue Italy’s favorite pastime no matter where you are.

How to Safely Store your Watch

Posted on August 31, 2017 by Styleforum Editors

This article originally appeared on Worn & Wound. It has been reprinted here with permission. Words by Hung Doan.

There will come a time when you will need to keep a watch in storage. It may be a watch you rarely wear, a speculative purchase waiting to be flipped, or one that you’re simply saving to pass on to the next generation. My eight-year-old son will get my full-size Omega Seamaster Professional when he comes of age, but until then it’s stored away, safe and sound. Having recently packed that watch away, I thought it would be informative to go over the do’s and don’ts of long-term watch storage.

There are several ways to go about storing your precious watches, from putting them in a bank deposit box or keeping them in a safe at home, to packing them away in a box in the garage. However you decide to store your watches, the following suggestions apply.

Dealing with Moisture

Ideally, watches should be stored in a temperature controlled setting like a safe deposit box or in a secure home safe. But regardless of where they end up, moisture will be a natural enemy of your watches. This is especially true in a cold safe, where moisture and condensation can damage a watch as oils coagulate and lose their lubricating properties. For quartz watches, condensation can be especially damaging to the IC circuits.

To combat the effects of moisture, I recommend storing watches with silica gel, a tip passed on to me by gun owners over the years. It is advice I’ve religiously followed for two decades.

You can buy silica gel in bulk or recycle the packets that come with practically all electronic gear. My personal recommendation is to get the desiccant gel packets that change color as they soak up moisture. Often, they come in blue. As the moisture builds up the colors change to white or pink, indicating they need to be recharged or replaced.

Boxes and Paperwork

Boxes, accessories and paperwork are rather easy to store, and worth keeping around for when you decide to sell your watch (“box and papers” can add considerable value to a sale). You should consider storing them in separate locations as boxes can take up considerable space. With paperwork, however, I keep the warranty cards, authenticity certificates and proofs of purchase along with other important documents in the safe. You should separate everything in their own dedicated zip-lock or protective bags.

Moisture can also cause damage to warranty cards and other accessories. Below is an example of two Omega leatherette warranty card holders. Over a 20-year period, the one on the left deteriorated and transferred paint onto the accompanying documents. A separate zip-lock bag, as well as some silica gel, would have preserved the dealer calendar cards and manual.

: A DAMAGED WARRANTY LEATHER HOLDER WITH PAINT TRANSFER ON THE DOCUMENTS I LEFT INSIDE.

: ZIP-LOCKED HANGTAGS, BRACELETS, STRAPS, ACCESSORIES AND EXTRA LINKS.

Appraisal and Insurance

Some homeowners and rental insurance policies offer blanket coverage up to a certain amount. If this applies to you, definitely take advantage of your coverage. In some scenarios, you may opt to have dedicated coverage. Either way, it is strongly recommended you appraise your watches, especially the vintage ones. For current watches, you should keep track of market pricing as insurance companies will offer a replacement according to market value. When insuring my watches, I take photographs of everything–boxes, documents, and the watch itself at various angles to indicate condition. In scenarios where I’ve purchased watches from other collectors or through non-traditional channels, I provided scanned magazine reviews, catalogs and price lists to support the stated value. In the 1990s, for example, my Sinn 156 Military was unavailable through official US retail channels, so I used a Bell & Ross (B&R sold co-branded Sinn watches early in their life) price list and scanned copies of reviews from Watch Time to secure my coverage value.

: APPRAISAL FOR MY SINN 156 USING A WATCH TIME REVIEW AND A B&R PRICE LIST FROM 2001.

: SAMPLE APPRAISAL FROM A THIRD-PARTY JEWELER.

Boxes

As I noted above, boxes take up a lot of space, but keeping them is paramount in maintaining value. Finding a replacement box on eBay isn’t difficult for brands like Rolex and Omega, but they can cost you $100-300 a pop so holding on to the original is worth it from a monetary standpoint alone. For smaller brands, finding a readily available replacement may not be so easy, so it is important to keep track of what boxes go with what watch (and era, as manufacturers often alter their presentation boxes). As a buyer, you should do your due diligence and research beforehand to make sure that you’re getting the appropriate boxes with your watch.

Maintenance and Inherent Risk

Idle watches over the long term can be problematic. Quartz watches risk the hazard of battery corrosion and leakage. With these, you should always remove the batteries. I recently put away a Bulova Moon Watch and a rare Omega LCD Speedmaster for long-term storage. The batteries were removed from each watch to ensure they not get damaged.

Mechanical watches have their own set of hazards. As oils dry, a movement can freeze. That is why it is often recommended that mechanical watches are wound and worn periodically. However, there is no escaping the fact that oils will need to be replaced. Even unworn watches will need to be sent in for eventual service. If you have a speculative watch you plan to flip in 10 or 20 years, you may forgo service and inform future buyers of the situation, as some would prefer NOS (New Old Stock) status.

safely store your watch — OMEGA CAL. 565 MOVEMENT FROZEN WITH DRY OILS.

Since the late ’90s, many companies have heavily invested in lubrication R&D. Rolex and Seiko especially have been pioneers in this regard. My dad used to tell me, “change the oil in your car every 3,000 miles and service your watch every three years.” This no longer applies. Just like with cars, there are now synthetic oils that significantly increase maintenance intervals. When Rolex first announced their new oils, there was speculation with regard to how long watches could go without service. Now in 2016, the recommended interval for watches manufactured after 2015 is a whopping 10 years.

For mechanical watches, I recommend getting a tool like a timegrapher. In addition to measuring accuracy, timegraphers offer a snapshot of the health of your watch (a low amplitude or high beat rate can be a sign of mechanical failure). For example, with most modern ETAs, anything under 250 amplitude means your watch should be taken in for service. With some watches, catching this early could mean saving hundreds of dollars in overhaul fees.

Conclusion

There are many approaches you can take toward storing your watches and this write-up provides a good primer. There is no one absolute way to store your watches, but whatever you do, keep in mind the key points I wrote about above regarding temperature and moisture, general maintenance, and diligent record keeping. You may not plan to store a watch for 10 to 20 years, but my recommendations are practical even for short term storage.

Outfit Inspiration: SprezzaTrash

Posted on August 27, 2017 by Styleforum Editors

SprezzaTrash (or Ethan), as you may know, is a big fan of thrifting and of vintage styles. Most of the time, he’s wearing vintage tailoring, but I liked this outfit in particular because it could have come from just about any decade, and offers a nice blend of vintage styles that still looks contemporary. Ethan suggests that it’s his take on Bryceland’s style, but it might be more recognizable as a take on the late Bill Cunningham’s signature look:

Bill Cunningham – Image c. Fashables.com

That certainly doesn’t take anything away from how nice it looks, of course, and Ethan’s interpretation is a bit more tailored. If you’re familiar with the Teba jacket, the chore jacket operates similarly here, albeit as a slightly more casual choice of outerwear. In any case, this combination also a great base for a casual outfit – the tie can be removed, the derbies swapped out for sneakers, etc.

If you’re looking for a bleu de travail, there are a number of companies that offer them. Vetra offers a very classic, shape, while Carrier Company also produces a work-ready version, though They don’t come pre-worn, however, so if want you want is sweet fades or patching, I’d suggest searching Etsy for bleu de travail, where you’ll be able to find a selection of vintage pieces in varying shades of blue. The rich indigo color is, obviously the draw.

How to Dress like Cleav

Posted on August 20, 2017 by Styleforum Editors

Our man @Cleav dresses the way that many users of Styleforum aspire to dress: impeccably, gentlemanly, and fuss-free from head to toe. This week, I want to focus on an outfit he recently shared that shows off how strong a relatively simple combination can be when it’s put together perfectly.

First of all, @Cleav’s suit exemplifies why navy is still a men’s wardrobe essential. Paired here with a striped shirt, earthy-red tie, and split-toe derby shoes, it shines purely on the merits of the perfect fit, and is complemented – rather than overshadowed – by the accessories @Cleav has chosen. While this is certainly a more conservative combination than most of what is now shown on Instagram feeds or in Pitti write-ups, many beginners nonetheless struggle to understand that you don’t necessarily need a more complex outfit to stand out. In fact, part of what distinguishes @Cleav is that his outfit choices are consistently executed to perfection, without the distractions of gaudy fabrics, experimental cuts, or overbearing accessories.

Of course, in order to look as good as @Cleav does, you need to make sure your suit fits perfectly, you need to know how to choose a shirt that’s not too busy, and you need to know when a loud accessory is unnecessary. When you’ve managed all that, you’re left with a foundation that’s not just versatile, but sharp enough to pay respect to both the wearer and whatever event he happens to be attending.

Bravo to Cleav, for showing the rest of us how it’s done.

Note: this article has been corrected as of 8/21 to reflect that @Cleav is wearing a navy suit, not charcoal as originally written.

What James Bond Would Buy on Mr. Porter

Posted on August 14, 2017 by Jasper Lipton

Mr. Porter has, apparently, worked with the costume designer and wardrobe supervisor of the ‘Kingsman’ movie franchise to put together one of those capsule collections we all love so much. Mr. P’s always been, in my mind, the go-to e-store for dudes who want to look like James Bond, so I guess I’m not surprised. Still, I say bollocks, because I frankly couldn’t believe the one trailer I saw for the upcoming Kingsman film wasn’t a joke. I guess there’s only room in my heart for one secret agent (hint: it’s Kim Possible).

Even so, you (and I, I guess) are in luck, because if you want to dress like Bond MP’s still got your back. There’s probably no better time to do so, especially since there’s supposedly going to be another film in 2019, even if we don’t know who’ll be in it. Hell, maybe I have a shot. If I had to guess, here’s what Bond would buy on Mr. Porter:

1. Nothing says Bond like a Dinner suit, and apparently Jeffrey Deaver (who writes books) dressed Jim in Canali in a recent novel. No complaints from me – that’s a nice tux. Black tie season is coming, and a real secret agent would be prepared in advance.

Canali Tux, $1,975

2. Okay, so maybe the other garment that really screams BOND is a dressing gown, because it totally makes sense that a secret agent dude has time to wear one of those when hunting down baddies. Anyway, this one’s got a nice pattern on it, which is probably good for distracting people who barge in on you, guns drawn, while your tongue is halfway down a supermodel’s throat. It’s like dazzle camo, but for a gentleman.

Derek Rose cotton-jacquard robe, $525

3. I’m pretty sure it’s written somewhere in the top secret James Bond contract that you must wear a turtleneck at some point. And, frankly, this one’s pretty badass. Heavy wool, a trim fit, and a solid rollneck make this a sweater for a rough ‘n ready Bond. Wear it the next time you get thrown into the ocean.

Inis Meain merino/cashmere rollneck, $595

4. Similarly, the white cotton shirt is a Bond staple. Given film Bond’s predilection for Turnbull and Asser, it seems only fitting to suggest one of the London house’s staple staples: white cotton, and nothing else. Bring extras, because bloodstains.

Turnbull & Asser white cotton shirt, $365

5. Every Bond worth his liquor needs a good ski vacation. That means you need a wardrobe worthy of après-ski celebrations (and libations), and that means you need ridiculous leather hiking boots like these ones.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Hiking Boots, $1,500

6. All joking aside, a black captoe oxford really is a wardrobe staple. You can even wear them with your tux if you’ve got nothing else. Smart shoes such as these showcase the best of Bond: quality, no-nonsense, generally ready to kick some ass, get drunk, or do both in the same afternoon.

Church’s oxford shoes, $595

7. After you’ve been to the Alps, you may as well head to the beach for a well-deserved rest, along with a taste of local delights with a side of murder. Connery’s Bond has always been a good source of swimspiration (hashtag #swimspiration) [note: I just googled ‘swimspiration’ and apparently it’s a thing], and this Orlebar Brown terrycloth polo is the perfect option to showcase your chest hair.

Orlebar Brown terrycloth polo, $165

8. On that note, short, light-blue swim trunks are definitely in order. Just make sure they’re tight, and that you haven’t been skipping leg day.

Frescobol Carioca swim shorts, $250

9. Oh, and don’t even think about trying to vacation Bond-style without a camp-collar shirt. Sean Connery loved these, and lucky for you, they’re having a moment. Pick one with long sleeves so you can wear it as the days start to grow shorter. This one also gestures, idly, to Connery’s predilection for safari shirts.

Camoshita striped camp-collar shirt, $430

10. Sometimes Bond (or, more accurately, Daniel Craig) does in fact wear jeans, and when he does, he usually wears chukkas. Not a bad choice – they’re comfy, and go with most things you’ll find in a tailored wardrobe. In fact, if you read Styleforum you probably have some, Bond fan or otherwise. Perhaps you’re James Bond already.

Brunello Cucinelli chukka boots, $1,075

11. Bond. Grey flannel. The two go together like sex and guns, and we at Styleforum (read: Peter Zottolo) are huge fans of suits such as this. Even if you don’t want to be like Bond, you do want to be like Peter. Trust me on this one.

Alexander McQueen POW suit, $2,855

12. At home with jeans, slacks, or full nudity, nothing says “I’m rugged, refined, and ready for anything as long as it doesn’t rain” like a suede blouson. Even if you’re tragically uncool and un-dashing, you can drape this over the back of a fancy chair and just look at it for a while if you want.

Valstar Valstarino suede jacket, $995

Absurdly Expensive Men’s Shoes to Buy Right Now

Posted on August 13, 2017 by Arianna Reggio

Sometimes, there is nothing more satisfying than window-shopping for things we will never buy. How many times have we stared in awe at the window of a prestigious boutique, like a kid in front of a candy store, despite knowing we’ll never enter the realm beyond those automatic glass doors?

I present to you the 11 of the most absurdly expensive shoes you can (and should) buy right now. Naturally, I’m leaving bespoke options out of the list, and I’ve limited the number of exotic leathers – because they are the equivalent of adding truffle to a dish and they always make it to the top of the “most expensive” lists. Sneakers are out too, because there are just too many rappers competing for who wears the most ridiculously overpriced kicks.

This is just a treat for the eye, as I’m ready to bet none of you reading this article could put together such a sybaritic footwear collection. If by any chance there is a spendthrift among you who can, please consider donating 1% of your shoe expenditure to a girl who’s been saving for her first Chanel bag.

Enough with the idle chatter. Let’s get to it!

TESTONI BEIGE LEATHER LOAFERS $1109

It’s hard to say no to shoes that bring up memories of your maternal grandmother and her antediluvian cane chairs. Lucky you! There are plenty of sizes left.

PAOLO SCAFORA MERGELLINA IN AMALFI CALF $1175

“There is something special about a pair of Norwegian Split Toes,” says the description of the shoes – “and it’s not that they resemble a vagina,” I might add. You’re also walking on what seems to be a royal emblem, probably borrowed from some fallen Neapolitan aristocratic family. Cool, isn’t it?

STEFANO BEMER MONK STRAP SHOES $1205

A little over a grand will buy you these classic monk straps from Stefano Bemer, the leather of which shines brighter than your future.

GAZIANO & GIRLING SINATRA WHOLE CUT SHOES $1420

Gaziano & Girling brag about having just a handful of people working painstakingly at their workshop in Northampton, but I bet in reality they employ Santa’s little helpers for 11 months a year, and that’s the reason why you’ll never get this pair of shoes for Christmas, even if you keep asking.

EDWARD GREEN GALWAY CAP TO SUEDE BOOTS $1570

393 Big Macs; 78 manicures; 6 years of membership at Planet Fitness. If you can give up all this, you’ll have enough cash to bring home these handsome English-made boots by Styleforum favorite Edward Green.

GUCCI DONALD DUCK BOOTS WITH APPLIQUÈS $1790

If you’ve been dreaming of Donald Duck embroideries and feline heads appliqués on your footwear, you can breathe a sigh of relief, as Alessandro Michele for Gucci just made your dreams real.

JOHN LOBB ALDER LACE-UP BOOTS $1815

Okay, perhaps they’re not exactly what we would call a staple color, but you can always tell your billionaire friends that these rare boots are crafted from the skin of one of the heads of the Lernaean Hydra.

CORTHAY DOUBLE MONK-STRAP LEATHER SHOES $2100

If you trust yourself to buy shoes from a country that has given us Christian Louboutin as well as ASH, for just over two grand you can take home these bicolor monk-straps and safely ride your bicycle in the dark without having to worry about using reflective gear.

SALVATORE FERRAGAMO MONK-STRAP CAPTOE SHOES $2700

Black leather and buckles don’t always equal a Fifty Shades of Grey scenario. However, should you decide to bring a little kinkiness into your shoe closet, don’t miss on these Ferragamo monk straps. They’d pair wonderfully with this other leather accessory.

STEFANO RICCI SUEDE AND CROCODILE LOAFERS $3000

Loafers are having a moment right now, and you certainly cannot go wrong with these carta da zucchero casual loafers by Italian luxury brand Stefano Ricci. Besides exquisite crocodile details, these shoes feature galvanized palladium details. I Google’d it, but I wasn’t able to figure out what galvanized palladium is, although it seems to be just another word for “plated”, used by Italian luxury maisons who like highfalutin descriptions. If there is a goldsmith among us, please humor me.

BERLUTI LIZARD OXFORDS $5050

A staple in every Russian oligarch’s wardrobe, these oxford shoes in lizard leather are created from a single piece of hide, and have no visible seams. Do you have an idea how big a lizard we’re talking about here? If some hunter in Costa Rica has risked his life to hunt down Godzilla-like reptiles to satisfy your need for shoes crafted from sub-tropical animal skins, then you deserve to pay the ludicrous price tag.

Let us know in the comments if you’re the proud owner of any of these shoes, and please do comment leaving a link in case you are aware of even more amazing[ly ridiculous] deals we might have missed.

Beginner’s Guide to Thrifting Menswear

Posted on August 10, 2017 by Ethan Wong

Ethan Wong has already shared his love of thrifting menswear with our community. In this piece, he details how he chooses the pieces worth saving, and lays out a guide for thrifting that any men’s clothing hobbyist can follow.

We created a downloadable PDF guide with a checklist that you can consult whenever you’re out shopping for thrifted goods.

It’s no surprise to anyone that I can’t afford to always buy bespoke or MTM clothing, considering how much I love menswear. Instead of buying cheap knockoffs from fast fashion retailers, I almost exclusively buy thrifted and vintage pieces for my wardrobe. With a good eye and some education, I’ve found that it’s a great way to acquire quality garments for an extremely affordable price. Here’s some a brief guide that I live by when I go thrifting.

Check your local thrift stores
- You never know what you’re going to find!
- Wealthier places may have better pieces (contemporary, designer/brand), but they may already be popular with other pickers.
- Not all thrift stores operate on donations; some receive general shipments of clothing.

Stay cognizant of promotions and holiday deals
- Some stores have rotating promotions around certain colored tags or item categories.
- There’s almost always sales during holidays that can apply to clothing!

Put your education to Use
- - The amount of stuff you see at a thrift store can be overwhelming; use the “touch test” and run your fingers through the racks. If something feels familiar (wool, flannel, tweed, cotton), it’s worth inspecting!
- Your knowledge of brands and manufacturing can come in handy. A Purple Label RL suit will be much different than a Lauren by RL one.

Check interior labels and tags
- - Fabric labels will let you know if there is a semblance of synthetics (ie; polyester) within the garment, as well as any other blends. I typically go for 100% wools.
- - If you’re in America, union tags will be present on anything made pre 1980s. Different union tags correspond to different years, so this can be helpful when encountering vintage suits and sportcoats!
- Font can play a difference. “Artsy” labels are usually earlier while stiff, corporate ones usually denote the 1960s-1970s era.

Consider the design and cut of the piece
- - Shoulder padding varied throughout eras and especially from designer to designer. Make sure that the jacket you get has the right amount for you, because that is something you cannot fix later.
- - Vintage and quality made garments usually have half-lining or less; most mass produced stuff post 1970s will be fully lined.
- - Always look at button stance and configuration. If the last button on the suit is below the pocket line, the overall buttoning point will be too low and results in an extremely dated look.
- Trousers with a long fly (11in or more) will usually mean that they feature a high rise.

: Half lining on a 60’s flannel suit.

: Thrifted trousers with a high rise.

Focus on Unique Pieces, not Workhorse Stuff
- Keep an eye out for cool details like patch pockets or belted-back jackets!
- You can always find a quality navy suit at any store, so try to find pieces with great patterns like herringbone or houndstooth since they’re pretty common in thrift stores.

Be Aware of What You Can and Can’t Tailor
- Make sure the shoulders fit!
- Inspect the garment carefully for extra fabric allowance.
- Sleeves and chest can always be taken in, but letting them out/down depends on how much fabric is available.
- You can shorten a jacket by less than 2”; anything more will ruin the balance and proportion of the garment.
- Trousers are the easiest to alter, provided that you take in the waist and taper the leg. Like jackets, making them bigger depends on the fabric allowance.
- Tailoring will always cost more than the purchase price, but it can be worth it to make something wearable!

If you like it, buy it; if you don’t, pass on it.
- Buy it when you can, since someone may take it when you put it down!
- They add new things everyday, so you can always come back if nothing catches your eye.
- Normal wear and tear is expected with thrifted pieces, but pass on anything with holes or major non-seam rips.

This is typically how I approach thrifting. It takes some time to get used to, but it’s really fun if you have the education, eye for detail, and a great tailor. It’s how I’ve gotten great stuff like a 1960’s olive green ivy jacket, the infamous 3PC brown chalk-stripe suit, or even a Camoshita suit. Whether you want to build a wardrobe or find some statement pieces to experiment with, it’s always worth it to check out your local thrift store from time to time!

: 1960’s ivy jacket in action.

: Chalk Stripe suit in action.

You can keep up with Ethan’s thrifting and vintage adventures on his Instagram (@ethanmwong) or on his blog Street x Sprezza.

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